Liesl & Co recently released an expanded size range for a few of their women’s patterns, and offered the Curvy Sewing Collective a couple of copies for review. I picked the Rush Hour Dress and Blouse, because I thought a fitted sheath dress would be a good test of their drafting and new block!
The Rush Hour now comes in two size ranges: 0-20, and 16-30. I am 5’2″, with a 45″bust, 39″ waist, and 50″ hips, so I sewed a size 18 graded to a 20.
| English System, Sizes 16-30 | |||
| Pattern Size | Bust (in.) | Waist (in.) | Hips (in.) |
| 16 | 42″ | 37″ | 45 1/2″ |
| 18 | 44″ | 39″ | 47 1/2″ |
| 20 | 46″ | 41″ | 49 1/2″ |
| 22 | 48″ | 43″ | 51 1/2″ |
| 24 | 50″ | 45″ | 53 1/2″ |
| 26 | 52″ | 47″ | 55 1/2″ |
| 28 | 54″ | 49″ | 57 1/2″ |
| 30 | 56″ | 51″ | 59 1/2″ |
Have you tried many sewing patterns with cup sizes? I wear a 38G bra when I can be bothered to wear an underwire, but generally what matters when you pick a cup size for sewing patterns is the difference between your hugh bust and full bust. I have a 41″ highbust and 45″ full bust, so the D cup pattern pieces were perfect for me.
Now, here’s where I was a bit rebellious! This pattern is meant to be fully lined and sewn in non-stretch wovens. Well, my friends, that is just no good for my life as an elementary teacher! Instead, I sewed it with Liverpool polyester double knit, which has about 20% horizontal stretch. To make the pattern work in a knit, I skipped the lining, used bands to finish the armscye, a facing for the neck, cut in the shoulder, and used elastic at the waist seam. Those are all very typical adjustments I make when sewing this style of woven dress in a knit.
I didn’t make any adjustments before sewing, but because I sewed my woven size in a knit, I did need to bring it in 1″ at the side seam. I wanted to cut my “true” size to get a sense of how it would fit in a woven.
I also needed to raise the shoulder seam an inch just to bring the armscye high enough that less of my bra shows. (That’s also why I did a band finish instead of a facing, to make the arm hole smaller … and I used black so that when my black bra shows it isn’t obvious. Sneaky!) Looking back at my notes on this pattern, I see they do suggest raising the armscye for sleeveless versions, so do as they say, not as I do! I have slightly too much length in the bodice at centre front, which is an easy adjustment to make next time.
In general, the pattern instructions were detailed and clear, and the combination of princess seams and Dior darts makes it easy to adjust. I like this silhouette on myself, and I will sew it again in a knit. It is perfect for scrapbusting — here I used two new fabrics that I received from Cali Fabrics as part of their blog team, and then used Sharpies to make the larger floral print have just the right amount of contrast! (Want to know how? Here’s my full post about it on Cali Fabrics!)
So the pattern itself is great, but I have THOUGHTS on a few other things:
- I couldn’t find a layout showing how the print-at-home pages would tile together, AND they didn’t have those little shapes at the margin to make matching easier. They did have labels at each corner to tell you which pages attach, but the label isn’t at the border. I found it frustrating to tape, and I have a lot of experience!
- The instructions tell you which pages to print for the top or dress, but you end up printing every cup size. That’s a lot of wasted paper, which infuriates my inner environmentalist! And because there is no printing layout, you can’t manually figure out which pages to print.
- There is only 2 1/4″ ease in the hips, across the whole size range. I have always been taught that fat spreads more than lean flesh when compressed, which is why a pattern for larger sizes should, to my mind, include more ease for hips, bellies and upper arms.
- With minimal ease, I really wonder how many curvy women would choose to sew this pattern in a non-stretch woven as recommended. If you are going to try it, I would suggest measuring your waist and hips while sitting down.
Finally, a small slap on the wrist for the following uninformed statement in the blog post about the launch of expanded sizes:
“Future patterns in the expanded size range and paper releases all depend on how these are received. If sales demonstrate that there is a market for our expanded size range, we’ll develop and release more. So if you fall into this size range, please make a purchase to cast your vote for more. And if you don’t fall into this size range, help us get the word out about the availability of these patterns, will you?“
-Liesl Gibson
I get it, I really do. That is a completely honest thing to say. However, it ignores that fact that a company with a previously narrow size range won’t have an instant fanbase of larger sewists, and puts the onus on customers to make the launch a success. Next time, I’d suggest they remember they are lucky to access our spending power, and try wooing us with consistently diverse bodies on their social media, perhaps a blog tour showing their sizing on more sewists, and basing further size expansions on proper market research, not on how many sold in their first attempt. I’m not here to cause a scandal though — I believe everyone deserves a chance to learn and improve!
Long story short: I recommend the pattern if you like this style, and if you’ve been wanting a piece of Liesl’s modern classic style for yourself. I see why her patterns are popular, and I do hope the size expansion continues for other patterns. The things that annoyed me will already be forgotten by the time I strut my stuff in this dress!
Pattern Rating:
- Size Range: 5 (56″ (142 cm) hip or bust)
- Instructions: 4 (higher if the printing and taping process was easier)
- Construction Process: 4 (seams matched nicely, the notches were clear and accurate, and everything went together well)
- Final Fit: 3.5 (I like the fit on my knit version, but I am concerned about the ease as drafted.)
- Overall Rating: 4 (A good version of a classic sheath dress with clear instructions and nice details. I would make it again, and recommend to anyone who is ready for intermediate sewing like linings, zippers, princess seams, kick pleats etc.)
Gillian, this dress is gorgeous! I’m not sure it’s a style that I’d wear necessarily, but I’m so glad to see more companies expanding their size range!
Thank you for calling out their unfortunate comment in a calm, respectful way. I get that most indie designers are small businesses with really tight margins – they need their patterns to sell to justify the work. Totally understandable. It’s just unfortunate that they chose that particular combination of words to express it. Combined with the detailed explanation of all the work that went in to creating the new block (which I appreciate), that blurb has the unfortunate effect of almost implying that this was a labour that curvy sewists should be grateful for, instead of an exciting expansion into a new market. It would have sufficed to ask that people share the pattern without the implication that if you don’t buy it, bye bye expanded sizes. Hopefully this can be a learning moment.
Unfortunate comments aside, this really is a lovely dress! It’s fantastic in a knit – my goal in life is to be comfy at all times, so I’m always looking for office appropriate knit garments. Your scrap-busting, pattern mixing skills are leaving me in awe. I also love that you used sharpies to alter your print – I never would have thought of it and feel like I have a new option in my toolkit for customizing my makes!
Dress looks great,l would like to suggest you raise the underarm seams a bit instead of shoulder seams. That would keep the dart in the right place. That has always worked out better for me. But, we’re all built different so maybe your way is better for you. I really like your fabric choice. Pat B.
Oh I totally agree with you, but it was too late when I realised how low the arms were. Next time!
I love your version! Especially because you went rogue and made it something that fits your lifestyle. It’s a good reminder that patterns don’t have to be followed. If you have a better way of approaching, say, a collar, do it!
I agree with all the comments about the launch of extended sizes. I hadn’t seen anyone call them out on it, so I’m pleased you did. They could learn from the way you approached it! I have a few of their original patterns but would fit better in the extended range. I haven’t bought any, though, because of the limited styles they released.
Thank you! I half wondered if people would be frustrated me for sewing in a knit instead of following the instructions, so I’m grateful no one seems to mind that I made it work for me! 🙂
Thank you for the review of the pattern. Your insights do help when fitting the pattern. I take a different perspective of their request for help in marketing the pattern. They went and started expanded sizes at the sewing communities request and as you say, they were honest in asking for help to insure it is worth their continuing. It is a private company that has to financially justify it. Asking for our help is an outreach I appreciate and anything I can do to help continue a bigger size range is not offensive to me, nor did I take it as my responsibility if their sales can’t justify this new direction. I am hoping their sales can support the extended ranges and then they can go back and offer us their other patterns too. It’s encouraging that pattern companies are hearing our voices.
I always love reading how people interpret things! Like you, I’ve got high hopes that Liesl will continue to release extended sizes. I DMd the company after this post went up to say that I’d given some gentle criticism, and I’d be happy to talk more… I’ve been involved actively on making sewing more inclusive for 6 years as an Editor of the Sewcialists and the Curvy Sewing Collective, and I’d really like to help companies iron out the kinks as they do good work!
Gotta say – that “message” from the designer is rather off-putting. I had this pattern in my queue but I’m not overly motivated to buy under the circumstances.
It’s so hard watching companies stick their foot in their mouth unwittingly! I just want to shout, “I could have told you this was a problem!” – and so could so many people in the plus size sewing world. I do appreciate that they thought to reach out to the Curvy Sewing Collective to offer patterns for review, I just wish I could have helped them earlier on! I think the pattern is beautifully drafted, and you would love the instructions… and knowing you well, this dress would look like a million bucks on you!
I was so put off by their statement that I didn’t even want to buy any of the new patterns. Oh so it’s my responsibility if you fail or succeed? And if the pattern is crap or niche or whatever and we don’t buy enough then somehow that reflects on the whole community as not being a viable market? But then again, my husband does remind me that I’m “countersuggestive” and will dig my heels in when somebody tells me what to do ‘for my own good’ 😂
You are not the only one who was completely turned off by their comments! Since I’d already accepted the pattern for review, I felt like I might as well sew it and publically give some polite feedback… I really would like to see this company improve their communication and representation, because the pattern is as well drafted as iI always heard her patterns are!
Thanks for this review. It is refreshing to see a sheath dress fit a larger range of sizes well. One question: Examining the pattern picture and your lovely dress, I get the impression that the center panel was not widened proportionally as the sizes went up. Is that true or am I miss-seeing the pattern pic. It’s all pink so it’s harder to tell.
Hello! good question! I went back and looked at the pattern pieces, and the centre panel is graded at the same pace as the other pattern pieces. I hope that helps!
Gillian, I would be interested in knowing how the top or dress made with sleeves would fit as the back view of your dress shows that the area that would join to a sleeve angles in diagonally toward the neck, not covering the upper back to the normal position of an arms eye where it would join a sleeve, Is there a separate back bodice piece for a version with sleeves? I am concerned about the pattern adjustments that might be necessary in that area. Love your dress and review!
Jeanette
Hi Jeanette! Great question/comment! Iperhaps forgot to mention that I angled in the shoulders because thats the shape I prefer on a sleeveless dress… but the original pattern as drafted would have suited sleeves!
Thanks for the info! Just couldn’t figure out how your version would fit with sleeves!
Thank you for this review! You look great as usual, Gillian! I will look into this dress, it looks like just my style. Although the printing and taping instructions… They could definitely add that, at least online.
(Small note from a German reader: the pattern company, as the name, is “Liesl”. It’s an older German nickname of Elisabeth. I totally get that the two vowels are difficult for English speakers, but for Germans it’s completely disconcerting: ” ie” is pronounced like in bee, while “ei” rhymes with bye. It’s always weird to read Americans mix this up. Just wanted to explain in the hopes that that might make more sense!)
I really love Kim’s idea too! Would really put a new perspective on sewing progress.
Isi, thank you so much! Would you believe i looked up the spelling repeatedly as I wrote!? I’ll go back and fix it! As an ESL teacher I always hate when people mess up names – it’s an important piece of identity! I’ve never known how the two letters were pronounced differently in German – maybe that will help it stick in my brain! SO is “ei” like in Lorelei, and “ie” like in the German word die/the?
Yes that’s it! I always learn something more easily when I learn the rule behind it, that’s why I explained (In this case I’ll spare you any attempt at the etymology of this rule, haha) Thanks for understanding!
Thanks for your review. I’ve used her patterns in the past in the Oliver & S line for children and have been pleased. I’ve already purchased this pattern as I like the style and plan to make it in a woven prior to your post. The post is helpful particularly the comment regarding ease and printing (which I haven’t done yet).
I hope you have a great time sewing it up! I think if you get the ease right, it’s going to be a knockout!
Ooooh, your version is beautiful! I’ve been wanting a good sheath dress pattern and will add this to my list. Also, thank you for calling them out (very gently)– how else can we learn?
Thank you for understanding that I hope the company can learn from this! We all put our foot in our mouth sometimes, and everyone deserves a chance to learn. Plus, it is a nicely drafted pattern! 🙂
Thank you for your review, and what a beautiful dress you made!! I think I will do my part to contribute to this launch, as soon as I check to make sure I don’t already have a sheath dress pattern. 😉 In all seriousness, I think you were right to call them out (very gently) on their phrasing. How else can we learn?
Thank you! 🙂 If you don’t have a sheath dress already, this is a good one to try!
I love when you mix patterned fabrics, because I never would have thought to! Plus you seem to have an expert eye for it. Taping together a pattern is the WORST part for me, so a pattern that makes it even harder is not going to be on my wishlist.
I agree with what Kim Nath said “SHOW me you want my business”. Until then, Cashmerette, Helen’s Closet & P4P will get my money
Also, her idea of ‘Same Pattern, Different Skill Levels’ is GENIUS! I’ve been sewing a long time, but haven’t really advanced until a few years ago, so I’d be very interested in reading those posts
Thank you Laurinda! This fabric combo is a little off the wall, but I did have fun tweaking it with Sharpies to get the effect I wanted! I agree with you on Kim Nath’s suggestion – it’s genius!
You look awesome and your evaluation of the pattern is very comprehensive as always.
It always annoys me when salespeople come to my office and tell me to contact them and they will match another companies lower prices. Like it is up to me to do their legwork? No way, if you want my business, do the work and SHOW me you want my business.
On a side note –
It occurred to me while reading this that while having a review done by an advanced sewist, it might be valuable to have a beginner review it as well. Sort of like the one pattern two bodies idea but with skill level. There is a very different perspective from each type of sewist so it might be helpful to get opinions from each.
Kim, what a brilliant idea! CSC should do that for sure!
When I look back at my beginner sewing, I think the big difference was that I always blamed myself or my body instead of the pattern. Now that I have years of experience under my belt, I’m more confident knowing when I’ve stuffed something up myself or when I’m not to blame!