Pattern Review: Merchant & Mills Factory Dress

Kia ora from my bubble here in Auckland to you. These are some very strange scary times, I hope if you are able to get some sewing done it is bringing you some comfort. I’ll admit I struggled when we first went into lockdown, concentration was very much lacking.

I’ve been working from home for the first time, it’s certainly made me look at my wardrobe in a new way. Getting up & showered & ready to face the day is a lot quicker without the commute. I can focus on comfort, but I’ve found getting out of my leggings and tees has made me more “work” minded? I’m still sitting on my toosh in front of a screen all day, but I also want to walk around the neighbourhood (with appropriate social distancing!) at lunch, so a dress over jeans or leggings is a great solution.

From the Merchant & Mills website “A smart & easy to make statement dress, inspired by generations of industrious women with things to do in style. Features bust darts, front skirt tucks, a straight collar & & dropped shirt sleeves with a rolled cuff finish” 

The pattern now also includes a shirt version, which is really cute.

Pattern name: Factory Dress by https://merchantandmills.com/

Size range (with measurements): Merchant & Mills have been working to extend their size range, the original block is 8-18, the new range is 20-28, which is  45/38.5/47.5 to 55/48.5/57.5 (114.5/97.5/120.5 to 139.5/122.5/145.5). They began by updating the four most popular patterns, the range now includes nine patterns with more being added.

What size did you make? I made the 20 which is 45/38.5/47.5. My measurements are actually 44/40/50, and it fits a treat. There is plenty of ease in the pattern, I particularly liked not having to do a full bicep adjustment!  

What are your measurements, height, and body type? I’m 5.5 “ (166 cm), and am all about the curves, full bust (16DD), a wee tum & generous hips & thighs  I also have very generous biceps, so often require a Full Bicep Adjustment (see above)

 What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? None, I made this one straight out of the packet. 

What fabric did you use? I used a gorgeous soft linen from https://thefabricstoreonline.com/collections/linen .

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? I found the instructions clear and the construction is actually pretty straightforward (the pattern is labelled Advanced Beginner) BUT the method for constructing the collar and front facing is quite unusual, the facing & part of the collar are all attached. Gosh did I overthink this one! The way of encasing the collar seemed so odd, I didn’t want to overlock the seams as per the previous step until I was certain I hadn’t made some terrible mistake I couldn’t fix (previous overlocker/serger disasters instil an excess of caution) After fluffing around for ages, consulting the internet and second guessing myself about 200 times I followed the visual images & overlocked the edges as instructed. Once I did that the next image made a lot more sense and I was away. It’s something I’ve done on another of their patterns, as soon as I stop trying to be clever & just follow the illustrations I’m fine. I do intend to make the shirt version of this pattern so I will photograph the method & save other over thinkers the wine & chocolate… 

How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape? I love the fit, it’s loose & comfortable, but the front pleats give nice gentle shaping, and the sleeves are spot on. The silhouette is simple, but the smart collar and inseam pockets make it special.

Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? I will definitely make this one again, next up I’d like to make the shirt version, in white linen, I think it will be the perfect linen shirt (which I won’t be wearing anywhere involving tomato sauce) 

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up? To be honest, I would just say follow the pattern, it’s not overly complicated (despite me!) 

My pattern rating:

Size Range (1-5) 5 Based on our size range guidelines. Do check the final garment measurement, there is a bit of ease in this pattern.

Instructions (1-5) 4 Good, concise & reasonably easy to follow. The illustrations are nice & clear, don’t be me & second guess them

Construction Process (1-5) 4 came together well, even the trickier details around the collar, I actually love how it is constructed

Final Fit (1-5) 5 really pleased with the fit, comfortable without being to loose, and the sleeves are spot on. 

Overall Rating (1-5) + 4.5, I definitely see more of these dresses (and shirts) in my wardrobe.

Once again, can you ever have too many linen dresses in your wardrobe?? 

I purchased the PDF pattern direct from the Merchant & Mills website. If you want to see a couple of other Merchant & Mills patterns I have made up check out my blog www.plumkitchen.co.nz