Hello curvy sewists! It’s Meg from Cookin’ and Craftin’. Long time, no see!
I haven’t been sewing along with the Curvy Year of Sewing exactly, but I’ve been following along and marveling at what everyone has come up with (so many lovely projects!) and I wanted to join in a bit.
Since Jackets and Blazers were the theme for March and April, I thought I’d pop by to share a review of a jacket pattern I’ve really been into lately: the Itch to Stitch Hvar jacket! I’ve made it twice now, in plaid suiting and in a linen blend, and am in love with it… here’s my review!
The Itch to Stitch Hvar jacket is an unlined, slightly cropped, waterfall collar jacket. It has side bust darts and fisheye darts for shaping in the back. It is a closure-less jacket meant to hang open. While the jacket itself isn’t lined, the large waterfall collar is, which means it has a bit of heft and lays really nicely.
The pattern doesn’t have the biggest size range, but a bit bigger than most indie patterns. It goes up to a size 20, which is up to a 46″ bust, 40.5″ waist and 48″ hip. I was surprised to see that the Hvar jacket pattern doesn’t include the A-DD cup sizing that many of Itch to Stitch’s recent woven patterns include, though…
What size did you make?
Although my bust measurement put me in between 14 and a 16, my hip measurement would have had me somewhere between a 16 and 18. Since the Hvar hits above the hip, though, I opted to just go for a straight size 14.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Bust: 42.5″, Waist: 37″, Hip: 46″, Height: 5’7.5″, Bra size: 38D, pearish body type
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
After a quick tissue fit of the sleeve, I did a 1″ full bicep adjustment, which is a typical adjustment for me. No other fit changes or adjustments.
What fabric did you use?
For my first Hvar, the plaid one, I used a rayon/poly blend suiting that had a nice drape. For my second Hvar, a linen/rayon blend. I think this jacket lends itself well to a really wide range of fabrics, provided they have a bit of drape. Kennis at Itch to Stitch recommends “woven fabric with good drape, such as crepe, lightweight tweed and medium-weight rayon blends; medium-weight, very stable knit fabric with minimal stretch (no more than 10%).” I’ve even seen a beautiful version in denim, and one in faux suede scuba, though, so maybe drape isn’t even really a must-have? But watch out for super thick fabrics, as that collar could easily get bulky.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process for the Hvar is really straightforward. It’s quite a simple jacket, with only 5 pieces: fronts, back, sleeves and collar. It would be a fabulous first jacket if you’re nervous, as it doesn’t have any tricky techniques and no closures. It comes together quickly, especially if you serge your seam allowances. The jacket lends itself well to bound or Hong Kong seams, though, and make it look really professional.
The instructions for the pattern are fabulous. Lots of clear diagrams and explanatory text. I think it’s drafted really well, too, and has some clever finishes, like where the collar meets the bodice at the hem: it’s drafted in such a way that the hem folds up and over that seam and makes for a very neat finish.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
I’m really delighted with the fit and the design. Like I wrote above, I had to make a full bicep adjustment to the sleeve, but I do that 85% of the time anyway. The bust darts seem like they’re hitting me in the right place, the sleeve length is good (no crazy long sleeves for the larger sizes!). I think the fisheye darts in the back provide nice shaping without being too fitted, and the slightly cropped length of the whole jacket is quite nice for a hip-y shape like mine, as it doesn’t come close to the widest part of my hips. I also think this pattern is really versatile and think it works well paired with jeans, a dress, or a pencil skirt!
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I already did! I didn’t make any changes for my second version of the jacket except to take a bit of extra time to get a nice finish by binding all of the seam allowances with homemade bias tape.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
In the instructions for the Hvar jacket there are links to helpful tutorials for making continuous bias tape and doing a Hong Kong seam finish. I imagine, because the pattern doesn’t have cup sizes, that the CSC’s full bust adjustment tutorials might come in handy. And as I said, I needed a full bicep adjustment, so check out the CSC’s tutorial on that, too!
Pattern Rating (1-5, with 5 being the highest):
- Size Range: 3 Not the worst, but could be better!
- Instructions: 5 The instructions are great; very clear.
- Construction Process: 5 Simple, but effective.
- Final Fit: 4.5 I’m quite delighted with my Hvar jackets! With a few minor adjustments, the fit is pretty fabulous, I think.
- Overall Rating: 4.5 I think the Hvar jacket is a great pattern; just wish it had a wider size range and/or cup sizes, like some of Itch to Stitch’s other woven patterns.