Hi! In my last post, I lamented my habit of sewing dresses when I never, ever wear them. What I really need to sew are everyday separates. Like Sophie-Lee, I am a pear. I have a 12” difference between my waist and hips. So ready-to-wear is unflattering, since finding tops that fit my hips means the shoulders and bust are waaaay oversized. Additionally, I’m 5’9” tall, so I’m too tall for regular length shirts, and too short for tall shirts. Making my own means I can add just the inch or two I need.
What I needed were some basic patterns for constructing a wardrobe. That’s why I love Ottobre Design magazine. For the price of one pattern, each issue has around 20 patterns. Their patterns come in European sizes 34-52, which goes up to 48” bust, 40 1/2” waist, and 49 1/4” hip. (See their size chart here in inches; it’s in centimeters in the magazine.) A few of their earlier designs only go up to size 48, although the more recent issues tend to have all patterns in all sizes. Also, I’ve see a few pairs of pants where they have two patterns, one for the lower end of the size range, and one for the upper end. That’s great because it means they’re not just grading up from the smallest size. (See the Lady Fit/Curvy Fit pants in issue 5 from 2012.)
Even better – their models come in many shapes and sizes and ages! I like their style – it’s simple and conservative, which is what I need for daily wear. (They are feminine and modern, without plunging necklines and the like.) I love seeing the clothing on all sorts of models. Check out this model from issue 5 of 2012. Gorgeous!
[Model from issue 5, 2012]
Ottobre Design mostly publishes children’s patterns, but they have two women’s issues each year. One thing I really like is that you can preview issues online. If you click on an issue cover – the women’s issues are numbers 2 and 5 each year – you can look at the line drawings for all the patterns in that issue, and also preview some of the pages from the issue.
If you aren’t ready to subscribe, or you want to buy back issues, you can visit their Etsy shop and buy single issues. I love their clothes so much, I”m slowly buying all the back issues.
Let’s get to some important details. I consider myself an advanced beginner sewist. These patterns, while mostly simple in design, do not include the sort of hand-holding instructions that most beginners want. Anyone can sew them, but you might need to work on your Google-fu so you can find videos and instructions elsewhere. Each pattern – even for the coats – has less than one page’s worth of instructions. They do tell you what to do, and what order to do things in, but the only illustrations with each pattern are of the related pattern pieces. There are no diagrams to illustrate the directions.
[pattern instructions for a velveteen blazer in issue 5, 2012]
You absolutely must have tracing pattern to work with these patterns, because they look like this:
[Don’t panic!]
So save the glass of wine until after you trace your pattern, okay? While the master pattern page might look a little nuts, look at the edge of the page and you’ll find the numbers for the pattern pieces.
[pattern numbers on the edge of the pattern sheet]
Run your finger up the page from the number, and you will find the pattern piece you need. You’ll also have to add a 1 cm seam allowance around the entire pattern, because it’s not included in what you’re tracing.
Another thing that might be slightly off for U.S. sewists is the nomenclature for materials (Quick! To the Google!). For example, they call it elastane, and I call it spandex. They do have some specialty fabrics for sale in their Etsy shop, like the floral quilted fabric they used in one of their coats. The coat patterns are really cool, by the way, and when I finally work up the nerve to sew my first coat, I’m sure I’ll use one of their patterns.
I’m sure you are dying for me to get to the part where I show you all the glorious stuff I’ve made so far. Sorry to disappoint, but life has been hectic and I have sewn exactly two things in the past four months! Two variations on the same knit shirt – the Monday Basic Raglan T-shirt from issue 5 of 2013. Unfortunately, the el cheapo knit fabric I used is starting to pill already. Also, my sewing machine and I are not on speaking terms, as it refuses to sew more than a few stitches without staging a full-on assault on the fabric. So the shirts are definitely not photo worthy.
I almost didn’t write this post because I have no examples to share, but I hadn’t seen anyone else mention Ottobre Design. I wanted to get the word out to everyone, especially for people interested in separates. Hopefully someone else can make something photo-worthy and share it here!
I’m actually glad to see someone mention this fabulous magazine. I’ve been a subscriber for several years now and though I haven’t made too many things I have made at least one from every issue, some many times. I recently decided to try a wool blend coat (my first) from one of last years issues. I’ve purchased the fabric, read the directions many times, and have this weekend blocked out to trace and fit before cutting into my fashion fabric. A bit nervous but taking the plunge into couture techniques.
I have subscribed to Ottobre issues 2 and 5 (womens spring/summer and womens autumn/winter) for the last 2 years, and am also finding that I do the same as you, I am slowly ordering up back issues…. Currently I am waiting for spring and autumn 2007 I find the fit quite good for my height and build, even though I sometimes need to adjust for my hips. The bust size is not a problem, even with my GG-cup size, but as I recently have studied the principles behind an FBA, I might try to adjust some of my patterns for an even better fit.
My favourite pattern is the t-shirt and A-line skirt from the spring issue of 2006, and also the woollen excersice jacket from autumn 2014 🙂
Thanks for this information! I’d seen Ottobre when I’d traveled in Scandinavia, but I had no idea I could get it in the United States. Their web site is quite sparse, but at least you can see the photographs. The pdf of the sketches is great because it gives you a quick overview of the whole issue.
I would never have thought to look for them on Etsy. Just ordered two issues, though my clothing skills will need a brush-up before I try one of their patterns. Thanks for the note about which issues contain the women’s patterns, too.
I LOVE Ottobre! I have sewn a bunch of stuff from them – in fact, I am reading this during a break from making yet ANOTHER A-line skirt from an old issue. I’ve made this same skirt pattern up maybe twenty times, I think. They do take some getting used to, with tracing and adding seam allowance, and the curt instructions. But I find the instructions more useful than longer but more confusing instructions, and it did really help me level up my sewing a bit, working out how things went together etc. Generally there are nice, simple options in there too, which I like because that’s what I wear but are also good for practicing using their instructions.
I do notice that lately some of the patterns I really like from them only go up to a straight size – I 44 I think it is? I am one size above that and can get away with it with an FBA and small seam allowances, and other dodgy maneouvers, but it does make me a bit cranky. Still, there is always something I want to sew in every edition, and I often find myself going back and finding things that I thought were boring the first time around, but after some thought are exactly the kind of things I want to sew and wear. I’d say probably 80% of my successful makes are from ottobre. I just adore them.
That jacket you show the instructions from is exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thanks! 🙂
It was awesome to see in the latest spring issue that every single pattern went up to 52. I hope they continue this. The only odd thing was…no obviously plus models? *shrug* < 🙂
I LOVE that Ottobre includes all sizes (34-52) for every style. *I* can choose what *I* want to sew or wear, rather than being offered mostly shapeless sacks for plus sizes. Burda could really take a lesson from them.
The mix of model shapes and sizes in their magazines is great isn’t it. I have had this magazine after getting a crush on a coat that was made from it http://gloriaandme.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/ottobre-fleece-finally-finished.html, but I’ve yet to make anything from it. Soon, though, soon. I was sorting out my pattens recently and realised that it has a button up shirt in and a pair of stretch jeans, so rather than dither about wondering wether to buy the ginger jeans and the granville shirt, I should just try those, der.
I have made a couple of things from one of their kids magazines. The instructions were short, but all there. Kind of reminded me of Japanese instructions.
I’ve been making so many things from Otto in the past year. Great meat and potatoes patterns, good fit and size range. I find that although the instructions are scant they do have enough detail to tell you what to do, much better than Burda instructions.
I love Ottobre! Classic elegance on models of all sized, shapes and ages!
Also, if you look at Sylvie’s picture of the jacket in the magazine, you will note that some of the pattern pieces have darker shading. That is their way of telling you that you need to interface that area! Burda does this also. Must be a European thing!
Thanks for the review.
Thanks so much for this review. I have most of the women’s pattern books too. Often I look through them and find just what I have been looking for. I also find they are a season ahead of North America! Next year we will all be wearing anything that they predicted.
I too have had a lot of luck with their fit. The shoulders do NOT get wider as the sizes go up like most of the big 4!
I have made a lot of their t shirts for that reason. Also they have a very interesting method of doing a FBA on their t shirts in the larger sizes. The front at the side seam is longer than the back and, has 2 notches. You stretch the back to fit the front between these marks. VOILA! A cheater FBA. Works like a damn! I don’t do anything else at the bustline and I am a D cup. My sister is a 49″ chest with strong shoulders and DDs. One of their patterns is her most favorite of all time. She has to slim down the hips for her apple figure. For my pear shape they are almost perfect although I often grade out for my hips just in case.
Thanks for posting! Very helpful info!
Oooo! Definitely something to check out! BTW, if your machine is trying to eat your fabric, it probably needs a good cleaning. Try the bobbin area first. Mine wants to suck the fabric down into the feed dogs when I’ve got lint and thread caught in my bobbin guides and casing.
vreed – that’s a good tip! Alas, my machine is clean and freshly serviced. It’s just that it is a hunk of junk and I need to make replacing it a priority. Unfortunately, life gets in the way…
I have only sewn a few items from Ottobre. I love their fit on me. They are not for beginners – you are right – there is no hand holding. I enjoy the models who are normal size people. With different body types. The kids’ pattern design mimics RTW design details way more than American pattern companies. I prefer to have those modern details on my clothes.
I also love that you can buy some of the example fabrics in their etsy shop. The fact you can see the pattern photograph and buy the same fabric (if you choose) is amazing.
You can also subscribe or buy single issues from their USA distributor: http://www.woolythread.com/zen/
It appears that woolythread only sells the women’s issues as an add-on option to the subscription for the children’s issues. If you go directly to the Ottobre site, you can subscribe to just the women’s issues.
In the past I have ordered single issues of Ottobre Woman from Sew Baby. Also my local Barnes & Noble has started carrying Ottobre.
I just prewashed my fabrics to start on a Ottobre Design spring coat (2/2014 #20, a trench coat) There are two pages of instructions, which by European standards is considered massive. If it’s any help I could write a review in a few weeks time.
I would love to see your coat when you are done. Please post.
Completely slipped my mind! http://foxglovesandthimbles.blogspot.nl/2015/05/finished-coat.html
Thank you! I didn’t realize they had such an amazing size range and real models. I find the Burda magazine plus size offerings are limited.