Look, there are no rights or wrongs in sewing – we each have our own preferences. But here’s my two cents, for what it’s worth: One or two muslins is enough. Step away from the mirror, stop tweaking the fit, and jump into real fabric. Make something wearable, and then go back and tweak the pattern later if you need to.
Here’s why:
- Everything looks terrible in muslin. I mean, come on. Half a garment made of unflattering fabric – it’s not a recipe for feeling foxy! You see every wrinkle, and without the neckline, sleeves and hems finished, the proportion can look off. It’s the fabric and finishing details that make a garment look wonderful, and sometimes you just have to jump in and use “real” fabric to give the pattern a chance to shine.
- Overfitting is real. You study endless tutorials, you read posts by women who have been sewing for years or even decades, and you want to apply it all at once. Yes, a garment should look good when you are standing still in front of a mirror, but a great garment should also work all day long. You need experience to tell what good fit looks like and feels like for you, and that experience comes from making garments that turn out to be too wide in the shoulder, or too tight in the waist. We’ve all done it, and those imperfect garments are part of the learning process.
- A wearable muslin is a beautiful thing. A muslin is typically a partial mock-up of a garment, but a wearable muslin is fully finished in cheap and cheerful fashion fabric, It lets you see how everything sits and hangs when complete. The weight of a skirt, the fit of two finished sleeves, and the swish of a lining can all really impact how the rest of the garment sits, and you won’t know that until you’ve made something complete.
- It doesn’t have to be perfect. Store-bought clothes don’t have perfect fit, and your homemade clothes don’t have to either. You can always throw a cardigan or scarf on to camouflage fit issues!
- Sewing stops being fun. If you sew muslin after muslin, chances are you’ll start to feel down on the pattern, yourself, or your skills. Remember this is a hobby, and hobby should be fun! (And challenging and skill building, but also fun.)
Now admittedly, there are times when you can and should muslin the daylights out of a pattern:
- when you are using super special, irreplaceable fabric or sewing for an important occasion
- sewing pants (but your muslin needs to be exactly like your fashion fabric, and often that means you need to muslin in fashion fabric)
- if you love fitting, or are trying to crack a particularly annoying fit issue with the help of class or book
Most experienced sewists I’ve talked to do one or possibly two muslins for a pattern, and said that if a pattern takes more than two muslins, they discard it and move on to another pattern. For a familiar company they’ve sewn with before, many said they would make their “usual” adjustments and cut right into fashion fabric. That’s certainly the way my Mom and Granny sewed in the past! Nowadays I keep a stash of cheap fabric on hand, and usually jump right to wearable muslins, unless it’s a big project like a button-up shirt or coat.
I’d love to hear your thoughts about muslins (by all means, disagree with me!). How many is too many? When do you make the leap to fashion fabric, and see how it turns out?
Su says
I’ve been all over the place on this subject. For many, many years I never muslined and I had a lot of disappointments, either send for recycling or donated. It has literally taken decades to acquire the patience and fortitude to go back to a disappointing garment and analyze it objectively for what I would need to change to make it wearable to me.
When I made my first real muslin a few years back (for a style that was a reach for me, trying to be more experimental) I was just amazed at how liberating it felt! If I thought that reshaping a piece would improve the hang, I could just cut that sucker open and insert a new piece of fabric where needed. I could mark lines with a Sharpie for my own information. The muslin was my playground and teacher.
Now I am hoping to find a middle ground as some have described, using cheap but “real” fabric (especially for knits) when I have reason to think a pattern is close to what I need. Then I assess by both mirror inspection and how it feels, and make any alterations to the pattern that seem like they might improve things for next time. I am closing in on a classic T shirt pattern this way which is very gratifying.
I have also learned a lot more about reading wrinkles and about how my figure deviates far, far away from the industry norm. Every bit of education seems to help get me closer to clothes I like to wear.
fat_lady says
I am very difficult to fit – no ‘normal’ off-the-shelf pattern comes anywhere near fitting me , due to my combination of fitting issues – BUT other than for a very, very special and complex garment made from a very expensive fabric, I consider a toile is a waste of time, energy and fabric – and as for tissue fitting of the pattern – spare me the nightmare of ripped pieces of a £10 or £15 pattern and the pain of pin-pierced skin!
Instead, I measure, measure, measure – and measure again. Me. The patterns. Clothes that fit how I like. Length, breadth, circumference, distance between points a and b – not just the obvious measurements, but *everything* that can be measured! After measuring, I compare, adjust and cut, with a nice wide seam allowance wherever there is any doubt. I mark the *stitching* line for ease of accurate replication of any further alterations or adjustments needed, Using a brand of pattern which has *very* detailed measurement charts, or is already customised, at least in part, helps a great deal.
Using my non-method, almost everything I make fits better than almost anything I could buy in RTW.
Tracy says
My mom worked in a garment factory and has sewn all my clothes growing up, I learned to stand very still as she fit me into clothes. Never used a muslin and cursed patterns and did a better solution. I always trusted her because she made RTW so was literally a pro. It was great when she’d bring home clothes from sample sales that her and her friends had made. I use a muslin on occasion, but buy old sheets at the thrift store to use. Lots of cheap fabric.
Tamara says
I used to muslin for everything but since I took a craftsy class in flat pattern alteration my need has decreased. I am a generational sewer btw and my methods are very different to how my great grandmother (who was tailor trained) did things. Probably also because I am also self taught – if this makes any sense.
I used stretch sateen to make four muslins for a perfectly fitting pair of ginger jeans. That is the most I’ve made for any one garment.
I agree that you can over fit a garment but if you are working on this particular skill in your sewing expertise, then muslins need to be made in order to understand where the fit issues could be.
The last project I made was a 3586 tailored shirt. It is recommended in the craftsy shirtmaking class. I made it in rayon without making a muslin first and based them all on my measurements. It fit but was baggy and I put this down to the design ease that was used. I would probably make a body muslin for the harrison shirt which is next on the list. Mind you, I made an Appleton top the other day and didn’t make a muslin and that turned out fine.
I think that muslins do have their place in the sewing routine a d I agree with some of your points that you have made regarding this.
I helps the new sewer if they do a muslin or two to understand their own fit issues and how to change them and it helps to make muslins if you are working on fitting as the skill that needs work.
Good post Gillian.
January says
I’ve only made muslins for projects that have intricate or detailed design or construction details, which for me is pretty rare since I stick with the same or similar basic designs for most of my clothes. I once made a “muslin” of a lined blazer using couture techniques from start to finish using an inexpensive cotton-linen blend from a remnant bin. I ended up getting more compliments on that version than the final version with the more expensive fabric!
Shannan Hicks says
I love this article. I was feeling bad because I don’t do a muslin. You learn more by wearing it for a day. Thanks for relieving some major stress.
Elizabeth says
Comment #2
The more I obsess about fit, the less I like to sew. Next time you are getting wrapped around the axle on your fitting problems, just to make you feel better about things that are not quite perfect, check out the people on the nightly TV news, the presenters or the weather people even the high powered guests, a lot of the time their clothes have huge fit issues, They are everywhere when you start to look.
K-Line says
G: This post is so smart! I totally agree with the experienced sewists and muslins. I’m not that experienced but I’ve fallen down the muslin hole so. many. times. (As you know.) Thing is, for me, can’t tell if it’s my OCD or if it’s a sincere interest in continual refinement. At a certain point one just has to say = this is good enough and it has many fine qualities and then it’ll sink or swim in the wardrobe. But there’s a lot of magic in fitting and it can be addicting. Hmmm.
GillianCrafts says
I think you fall into the category of people who just LOVE to fit things well. You’ve got a muslining process (with gorgeous fabrics) that works for you!
KarenH says
I have a tendency towards perfectionism which is not very helpful if you have just started to make your own clothing. There is a big chance I would adjust the muslin to no end and stop sewing altogether because it’s just not fun anymore.
I find I’m better off with careful measuring my body and sewing something wearable with cheap fabric. Then I sew it again if I like it and try to adjust the pattern where I think it’s necessary.
For more complicated projects with expensive fabric I would probably use Burdastyle’s “dressmaker centimeter grid fabric” which allows you to make a quick trial piece because you can sew on it. It follows your body’s curves better than paper but I’m not sure if it’s available in the U.S. and in Canada.
Jacquilynne says
I’ve done dozens of muslins while trying to get pants to fit me, because I’m drafting from scratch and trying to solve a huge number of fit problems. They’re all made out of real fabric, though, not muslin, because I don’t wear pants made out of muslin, so what’s the point of fitting them?
But for anything else, I usually only make one test sample, and for the most part, that one is out of a fabric i could imagine myself wearing at least around the house, so that if it fits okayish, I’ve gotten something out of the whole experience. The bargain ends section of the fabric store is good for this — find something in a similar drape to what you’re going to sew it out of eventually, and a colour you don’t loath and pay $1/m or $2/m for it.
I have a new dress pattern I’ve been working on developing over the course of a couple of years (I only sew a few weeks a year, so that’s not as long-running as it sounds) that I’ve now made 4 times, and each time it gets a little better. I did two muslins of the top before starting on the first fashion fabric, and now I just keep improving things as i make new ones.
Kate says
I agree! I almost always muslin although if it’s a pattern company I’ve sewn from before and the fabric is cheap and replaceable I’ll often do the usual adjustments and a baste fitting. I’m getting more experience and feeling like I’m having to make many fewer muslins and often the first one has a few minor flaws that were east to fix, or were perfect right away!
But honestly, I’ve had makes where I did a tonne of muslins and then once I wore the dress for a day I realised a bunch of different fit issues. Wearing a muslin – in muslin or some other throw-away fabric – is not at all the same as the real deal, wearing it all day and moving around. There’s just no point going too far down the path of muslins. It’s part of why I like to make the same pattern more than once, too – that’s the way to really end up with excellent fitting clothes. Usually the third wearable version is perfect or as close to it as one can get!
I did do three muslins of the Granville shirt recently because I was trying out different sleeve variations to get a good fit. I think that was one too many because I’ve not felt motivated to make up the actual shirt, even though I’ve got the fit down!
Barbara says
Completely agree! Oftentimes a wearable muslin will tell you things that standing I front of a mirror in a fitting Muslim can never divulge. Things such as it rides down when you sit or the skirt hem is too snug making it difficult to walk.
oldlady says
I am so glad to see young people interested in sewing. I so regret not learning from an eager grandma and auntie who were dying to teach me. Do you recommend in-person classes at a local store for new garment sewists like me or should I just keep plugging away, learning from books and from Craftsy. I’m so nervous about making mistakes and wasting muslin, fabric, time and coming out with nothing wearable that I’m wondering if I should find another hobby. : (
Rhonda Russell says
As a sewer who also works in education, I would say that the choice as to whether to take an in-person class or learning from books is entirely up to you and how you learn best. For me, I learn best from reading, reading, reading and then letting my brain digest the information before putting it into practice. I know other people who learn best by having a living, breathing human being to show them how to do it and be available for questions. And then there are those people who can just jump in and start doing and learning as they go. All are acceptable ways to learn. Don’t worry about making mistakes–I was too when I returned to sewing. So far there has only been one pair of pants that I couldn’t wear but since my friend is shorter than me she can alter them to fit her. 🙂 I mostly use fabric from the clearance section at my local fabric shop until I get a pattern tweaked to fit me. I still do 1-2 in muslin to get the big problems worked (long enough pants, waist fit, etc) before I start into my cheap fabric. Note that I had to try 3 different pants patterns before I found a pattern that fit me comfortably. In between I sewed other items to fulfill the need of accomplishment. I now have a TNT pants pattern to last me a lifetime–it was worth the work and wait to get there.
PsychicSewerKathleen says
I don’t do a muslin REALLY – I do what I call “practice runs” which means I use fabric that isn’t the finest but it’s workable meaning that IF it does turn out I do wear it and certainly I do have several pieces that turned out just fine. I rarely start right out the gate with my ultimate fashion fabric because I never use cheap fabric. The whole point of sewing for me is to make things that I love – high quality fabric, styling and fit. My time is too valuable and I have no interest in making things I can purchase for much less in RTW. Typically I pay $20-$30 a meter for fabric (silks, Liberty of London cottons, Art Gallery knits) but for my practice runs I might pay as little as $4 a meter (sometimes my practices are made with fabric that was given to me by someone who doesn’t sew anymore or are just clearing out their stash).
Chloe says
I hardly ever actually muslin and more often go for wearable muslins. I have never made more than one – I work full time and have youngish kids and find it hard enough to get the time to sew without spending it all sewing things I will never wear! I do want to try the sloper method soon – so would also be interested in a series on that process and whether it differs for the curvy… Great post 🙂
Ann says
I would add one more reason that two muslins are enough: If the fit is really off by the second muslin, very likely there is just something wonky about the pattern in the first place. There are two patterns I have tried recently to get to fit me since the basic styles seemed like they would be flattering. But by the time I added in an fba, adjusted lengths, moved bust points, etc. I realized that both patterns just had fundamental issues. All my adjustments for fit were just exacerbating the underlying problems with how the patterns were drafted. On my to-do list is to finally create my own slopers and set up some basic patterns for myself. But I can’t do Craftsy (rural internet) and really want a video way to learn. Also, I have not found a lot of information specific to creating slopers for extra curvy shapes or about creating specific styles from slopers. “Add wearing ease.” Uh huh, how much and where and how? I would LOVE to see CSC address slopers for curvy women.
Lesley says
Hi Ann, I’m a Craftsy addict! Our internet here is absolutely terrible and so I just download the classes on my Ipad and watch them at my leisure – even on planes! You would probably be able to take your Ipad to an internet hotspot and download too – the classes don’t take much time to download and I just love Suzy Furrer’s sloper classes. BTW – noticed last night that all classes are $20 at the moment – more enabling!
Siobhan says
I agree with your assessment that if the fit is off by the second muslin, the problem is likely with the pattern. I used to muslin and muslin and never quite get the desired result. It was exhausting and disheartening. You are better off sticking with patterns that give you the best fit first try, I reckon.
Anne says
I’ve become a queen of muslins and it has sucked the joy right out of sewing for me. I just made a garment without making multiple muslins first and it was a revelation. True, there are fit issues to be sorted next time. Fit was the reason I started to sew but I do find it so difficult and joyless.
I’ll be finding a happy medium. Your post has so many good points. Thank you
kvintaen on IG says
I am a newbie sewer. I have sewn wearable muslins for tshirts and skirts (some go in the bin but I have learned from them). I live with a difference between waist and the broadest part of my hips of 3 sizes accompanied by a big butt. I am trying to make my first pair of jeans and I have now made several muslins. Partly to get a feel of what I am doing, partly to avoid having to buy the denim that is extremely expensive here in Denmark… Had I tried to make the first pair just by sewing with a larger seam allowance, I could have thrown it all in the bin! I do not believe to make muslins or not is better than the other: there are many different arguments such as experience (with own body and knowledge of which patterns fit), body shapes (more or less complex), personalities, access to and prizes on fabrics.
Grace says
I couldn’t agree more. At the RTW company I work for, we only go through 2 fit rounds. Beyond a 2nd fit a style gets dropped. If the fit is still horrible after the 2nd sample, it’s probable time to choose another pattern. Over fitting is a real danger as well because “fixing” one problem can cause pattern distortion that will create other problems.
Elizabeth says
Thanks for those thoughts and for the responses so far; it all goes to reminds me that my overthinking of my fit issues has been taking all the joy out of sewing for myself. I do not like the fabric colors of my latest muslin, it was mail order and is of good quality and it will probably suite my coloring but it is such a downer every time I set about finishing it.
STH says
I agree! I only muslin if it’s a pattern from a company that’s new to me, a new style for me, or it’s a project for my (somewhat opinionated) partner. On Big 4 patterns, which are generally what I use, there’s enough info to know how something will fit before you make it. I check the finished measurements and the areas that are often problems for me, and that’s enough.
Jo Fountain says
Thank you for your post. My grandmother taught me to sew about 60 years ago. She never made a muslim.. She drafted her own patterns out of newspaper with proper measurements from the person she was sewing for. She could look at a picture in a catalog and make the garment. Unfortunately, I never was that talented, but I was very careful to purchase a pattern close enough to the size I needed and make my garment. Until these last few years, I never heard of a muslim. If something did not fit right, I would rip it apart, and make the adjustments or make something else out of the material. Of course I prayed a lot in this process too.
Marilyn Dar says
Thank you for this post! Really puts my mind in the right place so I can get to really enjoy sewing.
eowynsword says
The only garment I ever did a muslin for was the bodice of my wedding dress. Otherwise, I make my usual FBA, sometimes tweak the waist measurement at the cutting stage, and make a wearable muslin, usually in fabric from the thrift store or the bargain counter, adjusting the fit throughout the sewing process. I almost always end up with something that can be worn. I have only ever made one wadder, which I still hang on to, since that was a case of using “wishful thinking” measurements, rather than the proper measurements. And since it’s a classic/retro shirtdress, I’ll just hang on to it both as an object lesson and well, just in case I ever do become a smaller curvy woman.
Shirley W says
I agree. My body does not fit into any of the patterns that I try and I have become discouraged in sewing for myself. As my sewing buddy does not sew, it is hard to get the fitting issues taken care of. After reading many blogs, books, having a set of sloper professionally made, things still doesn’t fit as they should. I quilt and use the wadders as material for my quilting, but how many quilts can you make with muslin? I will do as you say and just jump right in and make my patterns from “real” fabric and if I can wear them I will.
Thanks for letting us know that we are not alone.
oldlady says
Hi Shirley, I use leftover muslin to make strip quilts using left over cotton scraps. Nothing goes to waste! and the strip quilts look great. My favorites are usually when I use lights and darks of a single color. The muslin is the base or stabilizer to start sewing the ‘good’ fabric to – gives the blocks a little more structure. I haven’t given up on sewing clothing but decided to work on children’s sizes. I figure a sleeve is a sleeve, neckline, etc. so I can see how it all goes together. I really am NEW at sewing clothing.
Marina P Brumpton says
Don’t laugh but I NEVER do a muslin for myself. I did when I designed wedding dresses and obviously do tons for my pattern company, but when I buy a pattern I expect it to fit. I alter in the fabric I am using. Hence I ditch companies which have fit issues. Vogue is the one I use exclusively , other than my own, and as a teacher my students where asked to buy Vogue for their exam pieces only….
That way there were no problems and only minor fit issues.
But downside is I did have a few where I just threw out the half made clothes. Shame but I am way to impatient to muslin for myself. 🙂
oldlady says
As a new sewer of clothing (I have been quilting for awhile – nice easy straight lines!), I have found that my muslin mockups never hang the way your good fabric will so how in the world do you know if it’s going to fit or look good. I have gone to buying sheets from thrift stores or asking friends for their old sheets since they seem to have more weight than muslin…You do have to look past the crazy patterns and colors on the sheets tho.
Mariah/Knitmo says
I don’t always muslin. If it is a new-to-me-pattern company, I will measure everything carefully, trace size (often going between sizes) and do my adjustments. Then do a quick muslin of the bodice before cutting into the fashion fabric.
If it’s a new pattern from a pattern company I’m used to, I will just make my standard adjustments for that company. If the flat pattern looks like it will fit — pattern pieces hang straight, meet at the center fronts/side, then I’ll jump straight to fashion fabric.
This time consuming process is the reason why I really stick to TNT patterns. Why yes, I have three McCalls 6696, three uptons, three laurels, a couple appletons (soon to be five) and a million renfrews. If the fabric is drastically different than what I’ve used before, I’ll leave slightly wider seam allowances in areas where I am likely to need a bit more room.
I did make three muslins for my Elisalex dress from BHL because the sizing was different and couldn’t get the FBA to be what I really wanted it to be.
Catherine Saxton says
I REALLY appreciate this article. I didn’t even know the concept of “making a muslin” prior to the internet… I’m 54. Also, your comment, “after two, move on….” paraphrased of course. I started sewing because I was almost 6 feet tall by the time I was 14…. And various other fit issues. But didn’t really get in to REAL clothing and fit until maybe the last two years. It has opened a new world to me. So I will keep this blogpost in my “sewing blogs to keep” folder. I remember a saying I heard from someone years ago…. “When the devil gets in it, it’s time to get out” I always think of this when something just isn’t working right. One other thought, A LOT of my wearable muslins have gone to thrift store. I keep waiting to see someone around town in a fabulous dress of mine. 🙂 Have a beautiful day!
Gretchen Metzler says
Oh my goodness this makes me feel so old. I’m jumping back into sewing after a 10-year or so hiatus and everywhere I look it’s muslin this, and muslin that…. I NEVER used to make a muslin for all the clothes I sewed as a teenager and young adult. It just never was done by anyone I knew (I grew up overseas and sewed most of my clothes.) So I’m not sure I want to start, unless, as someone else has said – the fabric is very expensive and irreplaceable. If a pattern fits, well and good. If a finished project needed adjustments I’d make corrections to it, or use it as a “muslin” for the next go round. We wear ourselves out by overthinking things sometimes, and this is a good example.
Anna says
Yes! I totally agree. I think sometimes the idea that sewing allows us to fit things exactly to our bodies can have the side effect of creating a bit too much pressure to nail the fit every time. In my experience, fixating too much on the muslin stage tends to suck the joy out of the project–not just because it is boring but because it’s so easy to find flaws and imperfections that it makes me feel really down on myself and my sewing ability.
Even for pants, I don’t spend a ton of time on muslins. I’ve been doing one quick muslin to check frequent fit issues I have: a shorter front rise, longer back rise, and needing a more scooped crotch curve. Once I’ve gotten a sense of how much I need to adjust those areas, I move on. And I suspect that I might start sometimes eliminating the muslin stage altogether once I have more pants patterns I’ve already worked with so that I can just start comparing pattern pieces.
I’ve been having a lot more fitting success lately by focusing on the basted fitting. I tend to get a garment that fits pretty well (and usually better than I could get in RTW) and being able to wear and wash and wear that garment again gives me a better sense of the kind of adjustments I might benefit from the next time around. Learning to read wrinkles in a muslin or basted fitting is definitely important, but there is also something to be said for looking to the way a garment feels and wears over an extended period of time for fitting cues.
Carla Mayfield says
I don’t do muslins. I just can’t, don’t have the patience for it. It seems like such a waste of time and money. I will go back and alter a garment after wearing it, and I do fit throughout sewing. I consider my first garment from every pattern a wearable muslin, and wear them I do. When the time comes for me to make a special or expensive item, I’ll still make a wearable garment first, then use the special fabric.
Linda M. Mundy says
I have never made a muslin of muslin fabric. I agree that you need to wear the garment to know if something needs adjustment (other than overall length). In addition to this is the fact that I shop for bargains and clearance prices so the fabric I use is generally less expensive than muslin. I know that that is hard to believe but true. And then there are knits. What do you do for a knit? There is a fancy name for a sewing mock-up but I can’t remember it. The worst that will happen with a wearable muslin is that you’ll spend a little on notions but if you’re truly unhappy with it there is still the experience factor that can be priceless.
Lorraine says
I can’t think of anything more to add except that I agree with everything you said, Gillian! Too many of us are stressing because we want and expect perfection. And perfection is impossible. For me anyway! I just thoroughly enjoy the process of choosing patterns and fabric, using my experience and intuition to adjust the patterns and just going for it and hopefully seeing in the mirror something that looks nice. Like you say – you can cover up a multitude of sins with a cardi or a scarf. I appreciate that others don’t feel the same as me and good luck to them. I would warn them though, that if and when they DO achieve perfection – what happens next? Doesn’t it just make their next project even more stressful trying to live up to the previous one?
Bex B. says
A topic near and dear to my heart, and good points, all! In particular, I agree that the best way to get a good sense of personal fit is to make – and wear! – completed garments. You might have different ideas about the fit after an afternoon of running errands in it. 🙂
I’ve erred both ways as I’ve learned to sew over the past few years. Nowadays I’m most likely to go the wearable muslin in cheap fabric route, too. I read Barbara Deckert’s Sewing for Plus Sizes recently (highly recommend), and she stresses the importance of a basted fitting over trial garments, which was kind of game-changing for me. Even the most perfectly fitted tried & true pattern will fit differently from fabric to fabric, right? So I’ll do a lot of pattern work up front, then I’ll cut with wide seam allowances, baste the whole thing together (including collars & sleeves), and adjust as needed. Time-intensive, yes, but no more so than cutting, marking, and fitting a separate muslin. And I’ve had better results than I did with muslins. If, like me, you don’t have loads of experience, this has the added benefit of giving you a trial run with the construction steps.
I do have to respectfully disagree about the pants exception because cotton twill can be found almost as cheap as muslin! If I end up with a pair of pants I can wear to the grocery store even once, it’s more worthwhile to me than doing a muslin. And considering how RTW pants fit me, my results would have to be pretty catastrophic to be worse, hahaha. I make a lot of pants, and if I’m using a new pattern, I’ll pare the pattern down to the very basics and try it out in cheapo twill or denim.
All this said, of course I think everyone should make as few or as many muslins as they like. We all learn and experiment differently, and any sewing or fitting is skill-building. And I know some sewists enjoy tweaking and playing around with muslin. But I agree a wearable muslin is (often surprisingly) a beautiful thing!
January says
Yes, there’s a lot to be said for cutting wider seam allowances, since you can’t put fabric back in that you’ve taken away but you can always cut extra fabric away.
I once made a “muslin” of a dress from faux silk dupioni since there were some design details I wanted to practice before using more expensive silk. I never made the 100% silk version because the faux silk dress came out fine!
Nakisha says
I just can’t get behind the conventional wisdom to muslin, muslin, muslin over and over and over again.
1) If you aren’t using THE fabric, your muslin and your final garment are not the same.
I have 2 pair of TNT pants and a TNT straight skirt and every time I make them they fit a little differently because of fabric choice. I’ve muslined and had the final garment fit NOTHING like the muslin. I’ve decided there is greater value in sticking to Big4 and Burda patterns for the most part, because I know what changes I need to make. That gets me 85% there. And I don’t quibble in “perfect” fit.
2) BORE-ING!
Haha! I would quickly lose steam if I had to make multiple muslins. Yes, they are much faster than sewing wearable garments but it’s just not how I want to spend my sewing time.
3) I agree that overfitting is real.
So your garment is perfect and wrinkle free when you’re standing still, arms down, taking a photo. What about how it FEELS when you walk, sit, bend, reach? A few wrinkles here and there never killed anyone! :-p
Naomi says
I have to say that I wholeheartedly disagree!
I don’t mind making five or six muslins, it’s the only way to get clothing that fits me the way I want to. My body is difficult to fit, that’s why I sew. I don’t fit into RTW clothing, and I seldom fit particularly well in a pattern straight from the envelope either. For me, the joy in sewing is all about making garments that fit me perfectly. Otherwise, why bother? Since I’m persnickety about fit I prefer to perfect just a handful of patterns. It suits me much better. I just get stressed if I have a gazillion patterns. But my best tip is to get help from a pro if you get stuck in the fitting process, preferably at your local sewing studio. If you don’t have the option – ask people to help on Instagram! Sewcialists are the friendliest and most generous people ever. They’ll most definitely lend you a hand!
Ennis A says
Best opinion I’ve heard lately!! Agree 100%. Thanks for the common sense approach.
Felicity Staggs says
I personally think that’s very good advice, too many muslin’s and tweaking can put you off the pattern and sewing altogether.
Deanna says
Excellent points. Thanks for the encouragement to just go for it!
Laurie Anderson says
I have been sewing have been sewing 30 years and I can only think of three iems I ever made a trial garment for. And I Sid make them out of fabric that could be worn if they turned out well. One was a friend’s wedding gown. One was a bustier that had many techniques I had never done, again for a friend. I do spend more time in prep on the pattern than I do in nearly any other stage, but no Muslims. I do sometimes have things that don’t work out. But that is how you learn.
Aleeah says
I agree only I don’t go as far as you do. I rarely do a muslin unless it is particularly special fabric or a difficult garment. The drape and feel are not the same in a muslin. And I have found that if there is not some importance to the garment my skills tend to get sloppy.