I love Lagenlook!
The literal meaning of the word “Lagenlook” is layered look. It refers to a fashion movement that started in Japan and Europe around 3 decades ago. It has developed into a strong niche in Europe and the UK but is only slowly starting to infiltrate Australia and the USA.
The style had such a strong impact on me that I remember the very first garment I ever saw around 1987 when I was training as a patternmaker in the fashion industry. My reaction: AWESOME! Here is a picture of THAT dress by Rei Kawakubo (who is still the designer behind “Comme des Garcons”)
I imagine that many of you would be quite astonished by this image and wonder how or why anybody could possibly wear it!
I’ll just briefly explain myself, as I want to devote most of this post to showing more images of Lagenlook and giving an overview on how it has evolved to the present day.
I’m primarily a textile artist and a “fashionista” rather than viewing clothing as a functional commodity. As an artist I’m instinctively drawn to the avant-garde and concepts that challenge conventional mores. When I was studying to become a patternmaker I was already running my own fashion business and feeling some ambivalence as I didn’t want to become a purveyor of disposable junk (mass produced fashion) or have a business that compromised creativity for commodity. To (young idealistic) me Rei Kawakubo’s dress seemed an anti-fashion statement in that it completely subverted the expectation that a woman’s dress should be crafted to make her look nice and pretty….this could lead into a great big philosophical and sociological reflection but that’s for another day.
Most of the Japanese designers who brought this look to the fashion world during the 1980s are still around and going strong. Names like Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamahoto might sound familiar to many. Like a lot of “high” fashion most of the clothes by these designers are more suited to art galleries and conceptual installations than a realistic proposition for ordinary people to wear. So over time the look has filtered down and been adapted to be functional for the mass market.
Here’s a selection of patterns from the Big Four pattern companies that have lagenlook features, from the very popular designers Sandra Betzina (V1234 is the diagram) and Marcy Tilton –
None of these styles is based on the classic hourglass shape or have conventional design features such as collars, waistbands or button plackets. But they have many typical lagenlook features such as draping, geometric design lines and illogical jutting angles.
Some contemporary fashion labels that do lagenlook and appeal to me are Shonmodern (www.shonmodern.com, Canada), Euphoria (www.euphoriadesign.co.nz, New Zealand) Blue Fish Clothing (www.bluefishclothing.com, USA) Sarah Santos (Germany), Alembika (www.alembika.com) Habibe Clothing (www.habibelondon.com, England) Kedem Sasson and a couple I’m a bit dubious about sometimes as they can segue into a few too many frills and furbelows for my taste – Mara Gibucci and Tina Givens
Heres some “street” versions on larger women that I think look FABULOUS!
…and just to prove it’s not all about black and grey
Many of these were taken from one of my most favourite websites to find lagenlook – www.artrageousclothes.com
Lagenlook retains its appeal to me today as I’m still attracted to the “anti-fashion” elements and having become a full figured middle aged woman it is simply a practical and comfortable alternative to more constrictive garments that are closely fitted to the body. A year ago I became so frustrated trying to find clothes I liked I decided to dust off my old patternmaking skills and updated to the digital era so I could publish my own range of pdf patterns. This is a statement is taken from my blog – “I want to offer a style of clothing that is loose, relatively unstructured and that moves on the body when worn. Clothing that is designed for comfort and practical ease of movement but still shows off the wearers individuality through innovative cut, embellishment, detailing, colour, pattern and design features.” Some of that is lagenlook, some of that is just getting older and mellower…
If you’d like to know more about my art and clothing designs please visit my blog www.pearlredmoon.com, and here’s my Pinterest page if you want to dive in the deep end! https://www.pinterest.com/pearlredmoon/gorgeous-clothes
Just read your post…I had the same experience! I was studying at the Pacific Fashion Institute in the 80s when I saw Comme des Garcons. I immediately ripped up my collection. Mind permanently blown. Lagenlook challenges the accepted norm that, in order to be beautiful, the female form has to be tied up in form-fitting garments. Lagenlook is all about proportion and texture. Now at menopause, I am a happy lagenlooker!
Hi there, you are so wrong about Australia/NZ. All my favourite dress shops in Australia have been doing this sort of thing for at least 20 years. In fact I find it far more common in Australia than in Europe where I live now, maybe because the weather has so many more extremes in the day.
I never knew this style had a name! I am so glad you wrote this, because I can now google with abandon to find styles I like, put together sewing patterns that will work for me, etc. Thanks so much!
I love the American based Skullz London Lagenlook Company. Tina Givens is just a rip off of Magnolia Pearl. But I`m sure her pattern business is doing well.
I’ve always loved this look but never knew it had a name! Thank you for giving a label to a look that has seen my body go from then to now!
Yay! *Does happy dance* Love you blog! I’m a newly ‘convert’ to Lagenlook. I favour the Japanese style. Less frills, clean and simple…..although I have bough two Tina Givens patterns recently. I’m trying to incorporate the Lagenlook style with my love for jeans, sneakers and Dr Martin’s….fingers crossed it will work!
Will check your website out in a mo! Am excited!
In the mid-80’s I wore ESPRIT clothing and some of my favorite pants were slim at the top, belling out towards the knee and calf and tapering in gently. They remind me of some of the pants designed by Oska. One unforgettable sweater was color blocked in different knits and shades brown and gray wool. It had a very simple, oversized silhouette, but was still quite flattering. The line has changed quite a bit since then, but to me, early ESPRIT design embodied a Lagenlook aesthetic.
I live in a hot sub-tropical climate now, and anything tight around my body becomes so uncomfortable. I found Eileen Fisher and love the simple styling and textiles. I’ve purchased many tops and kept looking at them thinking, “The lines are so simple. Why can’t I sew this?”. I researched Eileen Fisher-like patterns, and then I looked on Pinterest and fell into the sewing/Lagenlook rabbit hole and haven’t resurfaced. This was about 2 months ago. I’ve purchased TG patterns and like others, have had to make some changes. The crotch at the knees look is not my thing. Patternreview.com is a great resource and I love Rivergum who has this blog: https://theinsouciantstitcher.wordpress.com. ArtisanSquare.com has a couple of threads devoted to Lagenlook and I think that was the first time I saw your blog and the Willara Tunic, which I do need to order because I love the silhouette.
Lagenlook can be a very flattering look for many body shapes. My feeling is because the lines are so simple and geometric, it flows visually. Add in some really nice textiles and there is even more of an impact. Proportion should be kept in mind as well. And there we have my two cents 🙂
I am a big Lagenlook fan – made a few clothes last summer…want to make more!!!! thanks for this article. If you want to buy clothes similar to this, check out TS14plus.com.au range.
Over the last few years TS 14 plus has had some really nice clothes that are definitely in the Lagenlook style. Postage is free for Australian customers and they have shops throughout Aust and NZ often in Myers stores. I still have some old TS clothes and am forever surprised how they combine with newer styles.
First, I must point out that ‘lagenlook’ has been in existence for a lot longer than the mere three decades claimed, at least here in Europe. I was aware of that same ‘look’ – modified for the times – since the late 1960s/early 1970s, although I don’t think it had a name then.
Even though I’ve always liked the lagenlook ‘look’ in theory (*not* clown trousers, though!) – especially the natural fabrics, different shapes and textures – I find it is firstly, far too easy to overdo, and secondly, a very impractical mode of dress for many women, except for special occasion wear. Women who use public transport or who cycle, and those who live in wet and windy climates, will need to be more ‘aware’ of the clothing they are wearing than perhaps they’ve been used to.
I love some of Marcy Tilton’s designs, and similar styles, but for a short person like me, a little goes a long way, and I must warn those of us who are of significantly less-than-average height, especially if we have small frames, that we will – regardless of our amount of padding – need *lots* of alterations, adaptations and modifications to get a lagenlook which doesn’t result in an impression of a self-propelled marmite jar . I know, I’ve been that marmite jar!
Yes, you are right that the “look” can be traced right back to the 60s and earlier to the 1920s. Many of the lagenlook draping techniques are indiscernable from what Madame Vionnet was doing in that era. I’ve even seen Victorian costumes that have godets and drapes that resemble lagenlook. Heck, you could even argue the Romans were doing it 2,500 years ago! However it was the Japanese that really codified it and added Asian styling panache to take it the masses from the 1980s
” Heck, you could even argue the Romans were doing it 2,500 years ago!” heehee, Pearl Red Moon i like the way you think!
And what a treat to see your post here! shoot me but i love all the frills and Tina Givens patterns actually cover my bra with no alterations…..however to me that is the best part about sewing, there’s room for everyone 🙂 Great article! stephQ http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/
There are a lot of stores on Etsy that feature a similar look, and I gotta admit that I look over the photos and draft my own. Habibe’s book “Bold and Beautiful Easy Sew Clothes” is a great place to start with this pattern making
thanks for alerting me to that book, I’ll track it down.
Great
post! I am a huge Lagenlook fan, particularly the Tina Givens patterns
(sans frills!) As SplendedCakes mentioned below, I have made a few
adjustments to the patterns so that they are more fitting to my body
type, in places that I need fitting (shoulders, rounded upper back etc).
I have taken a look at your patterns – and they look great! I think
that I will placing an order pretty soon as I think that they would work
well in a Autumn/Winter wardrobe in dark coloured wool . . . . I am
determined to hold onto summer here in my linen and cottons!
Twotoast, I love your blog (she is spotty dog social club, everybody)! Thanks for your info on alterations 🙂
Yep, I Givens too but also baulk at the frills!
I love lagenlook too! I bought a few basic items to get me started a few years ago, and they cost me an arm and a leg! But are quakity fabrics and still look good. So I was happy to discover Tina Givens patterns and have ordered several and waiting for them to arrive from America. Like some of you, I dislike too many frills and fussy bits- I don’t want to look overdressed and as they are so comfy i want to wear them regularly. Luckily, there are still plenty of her patterns that are plainer and I am planning to adapt some of the others. Some of them are quite oriental looking in style and remind me of some of the Japanese patterns I’ve seen, minimalist, linen garments. Despite the patterns being quite oversized, I think they will still require the same sort of fitting skills as other patterns- just hope I can do it! Not sure where to get similar fabrics from in the UK though. Anyone know?
It’s mostly good old linen, linen/ rayon, or other linen blends, I think. Tina Givens suggests linen, voile, and sometimes silk for her patterns.
Try Merchant and Mills. A lot of their fabrics would be ideal for these garments.
I *adore* this post! I love most Lagenlook, altho’ some is a bit to ‘outthere’ for daily wear. Thanks for sharing several designers I’d not heard of.
Thank you for your article. I was in my 20’s during the 1980’s and still very much influenced by the alternative, anti-fashion, Japanese designer and androgynous look. I am sick and tired of the current conventional offerings in retail, especially for a full figured 50 year old. Unfortunately, I have been so brainwashed into dressing in a way that conforms. So what to do? Thank goodness for Betzina and Tilton!
I love these, though I tend to favor just a few layers, since I’m short and don’t want to feel like I’m being swallowed up by fabric. I LOVE your Willara tunic, for example, but will probably wear it over slimmer pants. I am ALL ABOUT women wearing what they love and feel comfortable in, rather than dressing to please other people.
Hokey smokes Bullwinkle! About a month ago I did an about face and started considering adding some Lagenlook to my wardrobe! For a long time I’ve been trying to wear clothes that fit, rather than baggy things- but the baggy stuff I was wearing was just “grabbed at the store, it’s big enough to cover my ugly body 🙁 ” choices. What if I chose interesting, intentionally less fitted clothes? Jokes about art teacher chic aside, I’ve bought a lot of linen lately, and ordered several Tina Givens patterns, intending to put few, if any, ruffles on. They are taking a LONG time to arrive, unfortunately. If you check out http://spottydogsocialclub.blogspot.com/ she has modified several TG patterns into simpler and better fitted styles (raised armscyes to cover one’s bra the most important one).
I’m 51 and very eclectic in my taste (my husband used to say to our little boy (now 17), “she’s not like the other mommies!” when I got a new skull watch or Indonesian puppet), so what am I waiting for?
Yes I heard Givens got so much negative feedback about some aspects of her patterns she has been modifying a lot of them. Its obviously a subjective opinion but mine is that full figured women are more flattered by clothes that move with the motion of the body.
Your post was fascinating. I had no idea what the history was behind this style–I always thought of it as a look for people/designers who liked interesting draping; the “anti-fashion” angle is much more interesting.
There’s also some deconstruction going on too.
I also love lagenlook but had no idea that it’s been around so long. So practical for those of us who are curvy, yet still fun. I also love the Mori girl look, which has a lot of similarities, but a lot more ruffles and lace, which I think adds to the fun.
Some of the early 80s pieces from Japanese designers have their roots in traditional Japanese clothing, including the layered pieces that farmers or workers would tend to wear. The dress above reminds me a bit of the way that the large sleeves are tied back – with a strap running through the sleeves and then behind the back of the neck – to get them out of the way. There was a terrific show on these early 80s fashions at the FIT museum in NY a few years ago.