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c.1910 Maggie Lena Walker [source]
You were also curious to find out if our full-figured 19th century ancestors wore the same styles as the mainstream fashion or simply wore wrappers all the time. (Hint: they wore the latest modes with aplomb.)
To help, I’ve put together a list of items and tips you can incorporate into your period sewing and think about when dressing your lovely larger figure.
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c.1900 Lady in corset [source]
In regards to corsets, straight seamed panels seem to be better suited for larger curvy figures, especially if you want some minimization. You’re probably thinking, “but gussets help smooth corset panels over curves.” Yes, gussets DO allow for a svelte look. They do help to cut the corset further into the waist area while providing bust & hip support. I won’t argue that.
It’s simply that the straight seamed panels have the gusset shape built in. Gussets are perfect for smaller busts and hips and for those larger women who want to emphasize their assets.
As for patterns, the Truly Victorian #110 pattern is fantastic, but you must pay close attention to selecting your size to cut. Laughing Moon #100 is good but doesn’t give quite the tighter waist shaping that curvy girls need (not enough of the gusset shaping added to the straight seams). However, if you carry weight in the belly/abdomen area it’s a good pattern to start with. For more on fitting larger busts in corsets I highly recommend this fabulous article on Foundations Revealed.
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1907 Ladies Home Journal: As Stout Women Should and Should Not Dress article [source]
Although, in staying modest, give space to the neckline. Cut down a rounded jewel neckline just a tad to give the neck flesh more room and not make the head look cut off. Shallow Vs and rounds allow for the full bust to “breathe” and not look so confined
This isn’t to say you can’t or shouldn’t make a high, round neckline bodice. Oh no. This style was seen in many decades – the 1840s, 1850s, 1860s & 1880s primarily, even into the 1890s but with extra collars & trim. Merely give a little bit of ease around the neck seam. And goodness, utilize those waist darts to smooth the fabric over the bust to waist.Speaking of darts – don’t sew them up in your mockup before fitting. Pin up the excess fabric at the fitting to make two or three darts that allow the fabric to be smoothed around the torso. Follow more fitting tips in this video tutorial.
If your bodice or corset is too small/tight, think about adding an extra panel between the side and side back pieces. Besides the extra width, you get more seam allowance to play with for fitting and tightening the fabric to the torso.
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Irma Simon c.1870-80 [source]
For form fitting sleeves from the 1840s, and 1860s to 1880s, keep the ease minimal on the upper arm, like only an inch or so in circumference. Of course, movement will depend on a well-fitting armhole as it relates to the bodice it’s sewn into. If your sleeve has too much fabric and your arm swims in it, try these tips to taking it in.
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1815 Portrait of Alexandra Lanskaya by Orest Kiprensky [source]
Reduce the width of the puff by making vertical cuts and folding the pattern up evenly. Make sure not to reduce the cap seam line too much. You need at least 1.5″ larger in the sleeve to show any gathers for a puff.
Also, lengthen the puff sleeve. A number of available patterns offer a puffed sleeve that’s very short. I know modern cap sleeves are *the thing* but not so in historical styles. Add length to the hem straight around or simply bow out the hemline to where the pattern is lengthened in the center but stays the same underarm seam length.
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Princess Victoria, Princess Royal and eldest daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert [source]
But I want you not to hesitate to add trim either. The key here is to make the trim larger in proportion to you. Don’t add a 1/4″ or even 3/8″ ribbon around the neckline if you are a size 22. It will look like an afterthought and not flow with the entire design. No, use a 1″ or wider size.
If your skirt has to cover 52″ hips, that hem will be wide too. Don’t go slapping on tiny rose buds for decoration.
Think *bigger* and don’t worry about too much. You’ll most likely know when it’s too large as it’ll start looking like a masquerade, fancy dress, or Halloween costume to you. Trust your instinct here!
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1804 portrait Mrs. Siddons by Sir Thomas Lawrence [source]
Accessories too: hats should frame the face, so that bonnet brim may have to be cut longer and deeper for a rounded face. Reticules should also be cut bigger to compliment wider hips.
And yes – larger women wore the same styles and same trim designs as other smaller women. Skirt panels were still cut the same, just wider and perhaps longer. Sleeve shapes remained the same. I encourage you to constantly study and view original photographs, paintings and antique garments to notice the details.
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1810 portrait of the Comtesse de Provence, wife of Louis XVIII, attributed to Marie-Eleonore Godefroid [source]
Just because you have hips or are a busty gal, don’t knock extra padding for the historical silhouette you’re going after.
For example, I have wide hips at 46″ BUT… my back side is rather flat. The Truly Victorian Imperial Bustle (lobster tail) gives me the full back protrusion I need for the Bustle Era. To get the late 1880s shelf I need to ADD a pad on top of the Imperial bustle. Ack! That’s a big back side. Well… at least it seems to me.
Indeed, it’s how the final look is viewed by others (not yourself in the mirror as that’s plain subjective). The confidence you exude while wearing your ensemble goes a long way too with the look you’re going for despite additional padding.
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c.1900 Lillian Russell, actress [source]
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Princess Mary Adelaide, Duchess of Teck, late 1890s [source]
It’s only contemporary sources that have told us we all have to fit into a size 8 or size 16. To heck with that when making period garments! Fit YOUR body, not the girl on the cover of Style…. or even in the period fashion plate that’s, again, an “ideal” of the age.
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1895 Worth Evening Dress from Museum of the City of New York [source]
- Open out those shoulder seams to allow the fabric to cover the fleshy shoulder instead of pinching tightly
- Keep the armholes high under the arm, then cut them larger around the top half only to help prevent cutting into the flesh
- Use up to 3 waist darts in front to bring in excess fabric at the waist
- Add extra width in skirts evenly to each panel instead of only centers and sides
- Cut waistbands to your corseted waist measurement over undergarments and with a little ease; fit skirts to the band length with darts and seam allowances
Recommended pattern lines:
- Truly Victorian
- Laughing Moon
- Past Patterns
- Simplicity (watch for fitting issues)
- Period Impressions
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1841 portrait of María Cristina of the Two Sicilies by Winterhalter [source]
Truly. That view of what you *think* you look like in costume is based a whole lot on your 21st C. mind. Heavy-set people have existed throughout all generations of people. Don’t let the prevailing world view of plus-size get you into a tizzy over how you should wear a Victorian dress.
Wear bright colors if you want. Dress as a puffy cupcake if it makes you happy. But most of all, keep at it!
If you fall into the “stout” sizing for Victorian ladies,
what’s been the best technique you’ve used for flattering costumes?
Share below so we can all learn.
(reposted from HistoricalSewing.com)
Thanks for the recommendation of the Truly Victorian corset pattern. I have heard great things but never given it a go.
What a great article! My sister loves the Regency era, but I’m having trouble modifying the clothing to fit her (51-47-56) so that she feels beautiful in it all. Do you know any plus-sized ladies who make their own Regency clothing? I could use help!
This is excellent information and advice, thank you!
Any chance someone could write something similar for later period styles? I’m addicted to Downton Abbey and Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries, and lamenting the fact that I never see what curvy women wore when trying to be fashionable in the 1920s. I only see curves on widows, dowagers, and the lower classes.
Hi Lydia,
My expertise stops just short of 19-Teens & Twenties but I’d suggest you browse Pinterest for photographs of the time. Start collecting images and you’ll start to see the larger sizes appear on those younger but upper class ladies.
You got me at ‘corset’ — the necessity of good fitting–for any size. Shelley of New Vintage Lady also encourages the use of well fitting foundation garments. Finding foundations that enhance and fit well is the issue. The paragraph on fitting is very helpful. Having sewing skills to customize fit is a necessity when relying on ready-to-wear items.
What a fantastic post. Thanks for re-posting this. Now if only I could actually get a good fit in a corset!
Very Cool!