Despite hearing all about the fitting joy of Full Bust Adjustments I had never actually been brave enough to try one. Using mostly Indie patterns meant I could generally avoid (despite being a curvy gal with a generous bust), all the confusing measuring, cutting and taping having to do an FBA seemed to require. However when my sister decided she wanted a particular pattern made up as a gift, let’s just say something more than good intentions was needed to make B cup fit over F cup…
Enter Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette & her new Craftsy class Full Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern. The class takes you through all the variations of an FBA you could need, on patterns with darts, princess seams and even knits. It is a thorough class, on the Craftsy site it is listed as suitable for Intermediate sewers, but I think an advanced beginner would also find it really useful.
CLASS DESCRIPTION
On the Craftsy website, Full Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern has the following class description:
“Busts come in all different shapes and sizes, and your pattern should work with your body, not the other way around. Body-positive sewing expert Jenny Rushmore helps you conquer a successful full bust adjustment (FBA) — the most common fitting challenge — and confidently work with any type of pattern. Understand what types of patterns need an FBA and how to approach the FBA for styles with single bust darts, bust and waist darts, no darts, princess seams and more. Learn how to refine post-FBA dart placement and manage extra-large FBAs. With Jenny’s step-by-step guidance, you’ll master the FBA for any style and cup size to perfectly fit your natural curves.”
You can watch the trailer here:
TOPICS COVERED IN CLASS: (I’ve included things I found particularly helpful in brackets)
Lesson 1: What’s an FBA?
- Introduction
- About FBAs
- Taking Measurements
- Measuring Yourself (including how to take your own, and with a buddy)
- Choosing Pattern Size & Calculating FBA
- Ease
Lesson 2: Styles with Darts
- Styles with One Dart
- Adjusting the Waist (I almost always make adjustments for my short waist, so this was helpful)
- Tips for Making a Muslin (yes, I should probably make one)
- Styles with Two Darts ( I would never have attempted this, but seeing the process step by step made it very approachable)
- Styles with French Darts
Lesson 3: Refining Darts
- Relocating Darts after an FBA
- Lengthening or Shortening Darts (including info on where the dart should actually sit)
- Lowering or Raising Darts
- Splitting & Rotating Darts
- Sewing & Pressing Darts (with handy tips on how to avoid the dreaded dart pucker)
- Pressing Darts
Lesson 4: Styles without Darts
- FBA on No-Dart Styles for Woven Fabrics
- Styles with Cut-On Sleeves
- No-Dart Styles for Knits
- Easing in Extra Front Length (really useful, no more “too short at the front” tops)
Lesson 5: Styles with Princess Seams
- Styles with Princess Seams
- Princess Seams to the Armhole
- Tips for Sewing Princess Seams
- Princess Seams to the Shoulder
Lesson 6: Troubleshooting & Perfecting
- Large FBSs (if you require an FBA greater than approx. 5-6 inches in total)
- Drafting the “Y” FBA
- Fixing Gaping after FBA
- Patterns with no Waist Seam
CLASS COST
The class is $40 USD at full price, but like all Craftsy classes, it’s regularly on sale for $19.99 – $29.99. Given the amount of information included, this is great value.
CLASS STRENGTHS
- Jenny is good at clearly explaining what she is doing and why, alongside the video, which is really easy to follow. Even the more complex areas such as splitting & rotating darts, which I have previously had trouble getting my head around, were simply explained and very clear. Jenny uses plain paper pattern pieces and a black marker to demonstrate each technique, the only additional tools you would find helpful are a French curve ruler, but even that is optional.
- Rather than a one size fits all approach, Jenny suggests various options for using the techniques demonstrated, such as moving darts or using multiple darts.
- The extra tips and advice are really useful. Things such as taking proper measurements (I loved the “sitting waist & hip measurement” tip), how to sew a dart, how to press it properly, successfully sewing princess seams, there is a lot of additional information included, which I think is particularly helpful.
- I learnt a new technical term “boob bubble” (It actually makes sense, watch & see!)
CLASS RATING
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation: 5
As you can tell I found this a really useful course. One of the things I think a less experienced sewer such as myself found helpful is the clear explanation of the “why” of doing an FBA, as well as the “how”. Sewing is all about 3D fitting with a two dimensional pattern, so having someone clearly explain and show why we are making the adjustments we need, makes the ‘how” much easier to understand.
I like Jenny’s relaxed style of presenting, and the pace is good, including plenty of detail without feeling overwhelming. There is a lot of information included, which I think makes it good value for money, especially for the more advanced techniques such as rotating darts, and adjusting princess seams, which I know I will watch again. I have previously tried to learn some of the techniques from a book, but I found watching a demonstration makes them much easier to understand.
If you want a comprehensive guide to doing FBAs, with plenty of extra tips & tricks, I would highly recommend this course.
Disclosure: Please note I had intended to buy this class for myself (Xmas!) when Jenny asked for reviewers, I then received this class for free in exchange for an honest review!
Hi Kristina. It sounds like a great course which is easy to watch with a lot of good information.
I was wondering about your personal experience and if you actually used the methods in the video. Did you manage to make something for your sister’s E cup? Did the tips and the tricks from the course work for you?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Kate
Thanks, yes I did make a (very wearable I think) blouse, my original intention was to have photos of the completed muslin/garment to accompany the review, but due to a few timing issues, (not least my model heading off to Australia on Xmas holidays!) we ran out of time. So instead I’ve been working on a longer post for my own blog, including the FBA I did for her, which included adding darts to a woven fabric , and a smaller one I actually did for myself, on a dartless pattern. I’ve also talked more about a couple of the techniques I refer to in the review, including accurate measuring, finishing the dart & proper pressing. Hopefully that will be ready in the next week or so, I’m hobbling around with an injured foot at the moment so everything seems to be taking a bit longer than it should!
I’ve taken Jenny’s course Fitting for Curves – Pattern Adjustments for the Upper Body (which was great). Has anyone done both and can comment on what the Craftsy class covers that is not included in that one?
The Craftsy class is more in-depth in Full Bust Adjustments – it covers the bust parts of Fitting for Curves, but goes into more details and has more variations (e.g. it shows how to FBA a French Dart, fix gaping). Fitting for Curves goes beyond bust adjustments to cover other topics too. So basically, the Craftsy one is more specialized.
Just saw this now – didn’t get the notification somehow. Thanks, Jenny!
This sounds like a great class. One question I have is: how much supplemental information is there in a non-video format? I have rural internet with a data cap, so streaming just isn’t going to happen. But this is the first class that sounds like it would be worth taking my laptop to Starbucks to watch. However, I surely won’t be able to remember everything I saw when I get home to my sewing. So I’m hoping there are also some printable class notes I can use to jog my memory.
Ann, Craftsy used to offer DVDs of their classes, but it looks like there isn’t one for this class. Perhaps you could email their customer service folks and inquire. https://www.craftsyhelp.com/hc/en-us
Hi Ann
The class comes with a list of supplies and diagrams of the adjustments Jenny is making, but no class notes as such. However there is a facility to make your own notes on each class while you are watching , by typing your notes into text box under the viewing screen. These can then be printed out, (each note will print next to the part of the class it relates to) Hope this helps!
Hi Ann
If you download the Craftsy App, you can save the videos to your hard drive
Thanks,but that still involves downloading – which uses internet data. I don’t have a smart phone either.
Oh wait, duh, you mean download the video while I’m still at Starbucks watching it he first time. Now that’s a GOOD idea.
I think you said the magic word: “why”. Any good teacher explains “why” and not just “how” to do something.
Question though…. what is that bodice front sloper shown in these promo photos? Is that a particular pattern she uses in the class?
If you meant the paper pattern I’m “cutting” in the photos (of course I’m actually not ;D), it’s the Cashmerette Springfield Top. But in the class, I use a variety of patterns to illustrate the various concepts (e.g. patterns with 1 dart, 2 darts, no darts, princess seams, knits etc.). They are all Cashmerette Patterns.
Do any of you who have watched this class think it would be helpful for a double mastectomy, no prosthetic, figure? I haven’t tried to make any garments since my surgery because I’m at a loss of how to adjust the pattern and still keep an interesting and somewhat flattering design.
Hi Barb! So this class is specifically targeted at women with a D+ cup bust, so unfortunately it wouldn’t help you with pattern adjustments in the other direction. It might worth emailing Craftsy to say you’d like a class on that topic!
+ D?! Those days are so over! Thanks for helping, Jenny.
Hi Barb! I think you’ll find the Flatter Patter blog by Brenda very useful. It’s a blog about sewing for a post-mastectomy body.
Thanks so much for the tip!
There is a small busted woman who has broad (swimmers) shoulders, she said she achieved her best fitting blouse using a men’s shirt pattern with a small fba.
Lilysageandcompany is her blog name.
If you ever decide to use prosthetics, you may want to contact the fairy bra mother… she is on craftsy as a bra making instructor. Beverly Johnson. If I understand correctly, some of her graduates go on to create custom lingerie as a business…. and a few even make prosthetics. (She may have a list of graduates and their specialties, if you aren’t inclined to try this yourself.)
Oh! Thank You for sharing this! It looks amazing! I’ve been scared to death every time I heard the dreaded FBA!! I just pointed my darts lower and “draped” the fabric over the bust! I can’t wait to do this class!
Thanks for the review. You did a good job. Jenny is an awesome instructor. I have most of her webinars, as well as the one on Craftsy.com. You are right, watching a demonstration makes instructions much easier to understand, even for someone who has been sewing a long time. I highly recommend Jenny and her webinars.
I too bought this course. Jenney packs in lots of information in straight forward very understandable manner. She doesn’t spend hours getting to the point, I came away realizing FBA’s are far less daunting than I ever imagined.
Thank you so much for the review. The course seems just right for us FBA scaredy cats.
I’m an unapologetic Craftsy addict, with way too many classes in my library (I have now joined their unlimited program, as it will save me a good deal of money). That said, this is my favorite. I have used FBA’s before, so you might think the class was overkill, but having the technique explained so clearly and visually, and having the information for every sort of dart or dartless alteration in one place is such a gift. Thank you Jenny Rushmore.
As soon as I saw Jenny on Craftsy I signed up! I’ve taken Jenny’s other classes online and couldn’t recommend her as a teacher more highly. Very clear instructions and a lovely accent – how can you go wrong?
Thanks so much for your review. I bought the course as well and really enjoyed learning a variety of ways to do a FBA. I really appreciated the section on doing an FBA without a dart (for T-Shirts). Nice review of a very good course!