Hello people!
It’s time for my first pattern review as an editor of the CSC and boy am I excited to show this one off. This is a great summer dress pattern from True Bias, with maxi and knee length dress options, a buttoned bodice and drawstring waist. The internet has gone a bit crazy for this one and rightly so. The size range may not appear too inclusive, but actually this dress could probably fit up to a size 22 -24 and it is very swishy with loads of ease. It’s my new favourite thing to sew, and I think it could be yours too…..
Pattern Name: True Bias Southport Dress (Maxi dress version)
Size Range: 0-18
What size did you make? 18 (shoulders 16)
What are your….
- Measurements: Full Bust 51 , High Bust 46, Waist 45, Hips 53
- Body Shape: Apple
- Height: 5 foot 10 inches
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
Despite my measurements being considerably bigger than the suggested measurements for the largest size (18 = B 44.5, W 38.5 and H 46.5), I just cut a straight size 18, but graded down to a 16 at the shoulders as I am peculiarly shoulderless. I also lowered the front slit by about an inch, and added wooden beads to the ends of the drawstring at the waist. These adjustments took approximately 30 seconds. I did also sew the button placket down because I was worried it would gape as the bodice was a little tight.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Construction was a dream! The PDF went together easily without going skew whiff, the instructions were crystal clear, and the drafting was brilliant. All my notches matched and it went together like a jigsaw. It’s a very simple but effective pattern. A beginner with a bit of confidence can easily do it. I love the bias tape finishing and making my own draw string. The only problem I had was a very strange print error which meant I got double lines on the skirt pieces. I instagrammed the picture and the wonderful sewing world (including Kelli from True Bias) came to the rescue and helped me overcome this. Most people don’t get this when they print it out, something strange just happened to me. If it happens to you, just ignore the shorter inner lines.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your body shape?
There is a lot of ease (the finished measurements of the size 18 are bust 47.5 and hip 52) in this pattern which is how I could get away with making a size that is apparently far too small for me. I don’t have as many waist gathers as other people, and it’s not so spectacularly flowy as some I have seen, but it’s still elegant and drapey and hangs beautifully. It’s very flattering (I’m not sure these pictures do it justice), comfortable and shapely. I have received a lot of compliments on it!
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Absolutely. I’m already planning another maxi version and two short versions. I will do a one or two inch full bust adjustment so I don’t need to sew the bodice placket down. I probably didn’t need to do this as actually once the skirt was attached the bodice fitted better for some reason, but a little extra room would be good and this would stop the slight gaping I have at the armpits. I would also add a couple of inches to the length of the front bodice piece as it rises up quite a bit higher than the back piece, but the FBA should help with this.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
The maxi dress version is LONG. I’m 5′ 10″ and it comes almost down to the floor. I think it’s designed for wearing with heels, so if you are shorter than me or don’t like heels you may need to shorten it.
I didn’t need to use it because the instructions were clear, but there is also a very good sewalong on the True Bias site.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
- Size Range: 3 (though it will fit a wider range than it seems)
- Instructions: 5
- Construction Process: 5
- Final Fit: 4
- Overall Rating: 4.5
Showing a bit of leg
This looks lovely on you. Quite inspiring. Thank you.
This review is great! Thank you. I bought the pattern the other week but haven’t made it yet. I was a bit put off by having to upsize it. But considering we have very similar measurements, I can’t wait to give it a go. Yours looks AMAZING!!!
I wasn’t super loving the maxi length version but I think you’ve sold me on it! It’s really nice 🙂
I have to say that dress looks better on you than on the model. I looked at the pattern page because I liked how your’s looked and was like “meh” on the skinny model. 🙂 Now to see other curvy girls in the shorter version. 😀
Well thanks! What a lovely thing to say 🙂 And I will have a review of the short version coming up on my blog very soon.
Hi, Tammy. I made the shorter version and quite like it, but I think curvier girls will find the skirt to be a little too tight/straight. I definitely need to add some more volume in there or make it more A-line, as I find it kind of hard to sit in it. Here’s my post if you want to see it: http://www.pudgeandnico.com/?p=3286
I had pretty much the same issues you did–slight gaping at armscyes, bodice not as blousey as intended, and the front waistline pulling up. I plan to do an FBA next go-around, and I really do think it will fix the majority of those problems. I still think your dress looks great without the fixes though!
Ooh that’s interesting: do you have a blog post about it? I would love to see your version! I wonder if it’s just a problem with the pattern for fuller busted women: Jenny Cashmerette did an FBA and still had those issues. Mind you, I don’t mind it looking the way it does, and it’s very comfy!
I do! http://www.pudgeandnico.com/?p=3286
And I agree, I still like my dress the way it is, even though I think I would like it better with the fixes, because I do prefer that blousier look. Did you see Kelli’s tank top hack the other day!?!? Now I REALLY want to figure out the changes I need, because that tank top looks so perfect for summer!
Yes! I had the very same thoughts! I think I would wear the top a LOT. I’ve just seen your southport! It’s very cute! And yes, I see you had the same issues. I think a more a-line version would be really cute, I hope you try!
This looks like a brilliant summer dress! Thanks for the review, some good points to note there. I would have been put off by the sizing if I hadn’t read this, but now I might give it a go. Yours looks fab! (REALLY admiring your chunky sandals, too, they’re lovely) 🙂
Thank you so much! The sandals are actually the clogs I wore to my wedding (before I changed into some rainbow brogues for dancing in!) and they are fab. It would be great if the size range could be a little broader, but this is totally doable for people bigger than an 18. I would say the short version comes up smaller in the skirt pieces though.
Looks good! I hadn’t even considered this pattern when looking at Maxi dresses, now I’m going to have to rethink that!
Definitely do: it’s a winner!
I’d like to try making this now I’ve seen it on a similar figure to mine, I think it looks fab!
Thanks: do try, it’s great!
This looks very flattering. Love your fabric choice and your shoes.
Thanks so very much!
Your dress looks lovely on you Rosie, I can’t wait to jump into the maxi-land!!
I can’t wait to see your version!
Thanks for the review, Rosie! Your dress looks amazing on you! 😀
Thanks so much! 🙂
Thank you for the review! We have similar measurements and I love how your Southport looks on you so I might give it a try when our summer comes. 🙂
Oh yes, definitely do. It’s great to know we have similar measurements, I have just followed your awesome blog so I can virtually borrow your clothes!
I second the congratulations. Your comment about making a FBA in the next version is a good read of your fabric/pattern. Good eye and keep the reviews coming. Loved your description of how the pattern was intended and how you made it your own.
Thank you so very much!
Your Southport looks beautiful. I love that fabric … what is it?
I think it’s a poly viscose I got from regency rags on eBay. It is lush!
Congratulations on your first pattern review here Rosie — it’s a great one! I recently made this dress too (shorter version since I was hoping for a wearable muslin) and it’s definitely a winner of a pattern for me. I adore your fabric choice (and silvery shoes too) and you look fantastic wearing your new Southport. Nice work!
Thanks so much! It’s a great pattern. I have just made the shorter version and noticed that there is less ease in the skirt pieces than the maxi version in case you are wearable muslining for a later maxi!