When I first began sewing, I saw patterns as silver fitting bullets. Unlike the ready-to-wear garments that gave me conniptions, from their gaping waistlines to buckling busts, sewing patterns were the key to unlocking my perfect fit. Or, so I was told, anyhow. Imagine my surprise, when I made my first garment! Despite precisely matching the envelope’s measurements, my dress had the very same issues as RTW. The bust was a smidge too tight, while the waist was quite a few smidges too big. The armscyes gaped so large, I thought any moment they might start flapping and send me into flight. While that would have been an adventure, sure, I was upset. Patterns were supposed to fit me right out of the envelope. Everyone said that sewing was the secret to well-fitting garments. So, what was wrong with me?
The answer was, of course, nothing. Just like there’s nothing wrong with my body, when ready-to-wear doesn’t fit me, there’s nothing wrong when a sewing pattern isn’t instantly perfect. Patterns aren’t designed with Mary Danielson’s proportions in mind. They’re designed to fit the average of a line’s target demographic. While I will happily rail against small size ranges in patterns, it’s rare that I am upset by a pattern’s initial out-of-the-envelope fit. For both plus size and straight size seamstresses, patterns really are just a jumping off point. This realization was the single most important turning point in my sewing. It took my clothes from ill-fitting and baggy to pieces that get mistaken for RTW, which from a non-sewer is a high compliment.
My entry into fitting was the Full Bust Adjustment, which is a must for anyone with a large cup size. It made gaping armscyes and straining bustlines a thing of the past. After a few much more successful projects, I was hooked on fitting. I bought book after book and consumed online tutorials, like a kid with Halloween candy. There is seemingly no end to the type of fit adjustments one can take. Now, I regularly take a large bicep adjustment, small waist adjustment, full tummy adjustment, and a myriad other little fitting tweaks as they suit my fancy.
So, why am I telling you this? Simply to remind you that you are not alone. Do not be discouraged by people’s claims of patterns fitting them perfectly out-of-the-envelope. While fitting is a deeply individualized part of sewing, we all have to do it. No one, from size 2 to size 22, can fit into every single pattern perfectly. It’s statistically impossible. Women with the same general measurements can be a million different heights and shapes. None of us are imperfect, despite what adjustments we have to make. Patterns are not universal, they are merely helpful starting points.
What’s more, even the concept of perfect fit is different for every woman. While I may have the exact same body measurements as another seamstress, the way we go about fitting may be completely different. Not every 46-35-46 is going to be shaped the same or care about the same issues. I can’t handle a too high waistline, but I’m perfectly fine with a dress back being a bit baggy. What doesn’t faze me may drive someone else batty! Some may want more ease in the bust, while others feel best with a close, close fit. That’s a-okay, kittens. The beauty of learning to fit is that all of your clothes can suit not only your measurements, but your preferences, as well.
To beginner seamstresses, fitting can seem like a magical art, something learned by osmosis and taking remarkable skill. That’s just silly, y’all. I’m here to tell you that fit is an ongoing, personal process that we all will keep honing forever. Don’t let other people’s fear of bust adjustments or sleeve fixes get in your head. Every fitting adjustment is just cutting paper and taping it back together. You’ve been doing that, since you were knee high to a grasshopper! In my opinion, the more we can demystify not only how we fit, but when and why we do so, the less scary it becomes. I guarantee there isn’t one accomplished sewing blogger you read who doesn’t regularly take fit adjustments. Get out the tape, grab some muslin, and start your own fitting journey.
So, I’m curious, readers. What sort of fitting adjustments do you take? I love seeing the differences in this process, because it reinforces the fact that every seamstress is an individual. Our bodies are not only beautiful, but uniquely ours.
Well said. Thank you.
Hi Paula,
I have done the Palmer/Pletsch fit class here in Sydney Australia a few years ago, pre curvy days! I learnt so much and still use the skills I was taught to now make the FBA, rounded back, forward shoulder, you name , I now have to do it. Well worth the time and cost. Good luck
Has anyone taken the Palmer/Pletch fit classes? I was wondering how well the fit/teach fitting for very curvy students that need a bigger size than most patterns come in?
Okay, this is my first visit to the site, and the very first comment I read is from a person with my own first name and last initial … who makes the same pattern adjustments I do. Yikes! Glad I found this place.
Adjustments I have made all my life, and will continue to make all my life? Straighten for square shoulders, shorten for narrow shoulders, lengthen the waist and drop the crotch — I have both a long torso and a deep rise. Sometimes I add as much as 2″ to a bodice AND 2″ to the rise.
Adjustments that I make now that I have become a middle-aged shape shifter? Add to waist front to accommodate a full belly, raise back of neck and lower front of neck to accommodate a forward head position, make a full bicep adjustment.
And yet, to see me, you’d think I have a perfectly average body.
Eventually I will start to make the sort of adjustment that happens when old people turn into a “C”: lengthen the back and shorten the front.
Awesome post, Mary! This is exactly what I wish someone would have told me when I was starting out. I was always so down on myself about having to make all these adjustments, thinking my body was all weird and “wrong”, because I didn’t see that LITERALLY EVERYONE has to do these things. Yay for transparency!
This post could not have come at a better time on a better day. Seriously, I needed to hear this right now. I absolutely love CSC and articles like this are why I keep going… keep moving forward.. keep dancing to my own beat. Thank you!
What a brilliant post and one everyone should read, not just curvy gals. So many newbies get disheartened by garments not fitting but not realising the work that goes into a good fit.
As a standard I do an FBA, shorten between the bust and shoulders, often a narrow shoulder adjustment, grade up at the waist and shorten the bodice! It’s all worth it in the end!
The FBA was such an eye-opening thing for me. In last couple of years I’ve learned I can make a bodice two sizes smaller than I was a slightly larger FBA, a slight full tummy adjustment, and it totally takes care of what was once a standard adjustment for narrow shoulders and a huge sway back adjustment, or massive hollow chest/petite upper chest adjustment.
That was me when I first started sewing. The more learn about fit, the more addicted I became. It is a life time process. I thought a pattern fit right out of the envelope and for the most part it did. As I wore it I realize that it didn’t fit right out of the envelope.
I think fitting is fun. Sort of a puzzle, and I love that. I couldn’t agree more, fitting is so subjective because it depends on how much ease a person prefers.
As for adjustments I have to make, of course it’s the FBA. I might get away without it for Colette and deer and doe, but I have to grade between so many sizes that I just choose a bigger size. I also lengthen most patterns, which is weird because I’m short. I don’t think I have a petite body, which I thought it was because you’re under a certain height. I have short legs. The adjustment that I start to make more and more is a small back adjustment, which is completely a surprise to me because I thought I had a broad back. Sewing and adjustments do not lie.
I think I might have just mastered the FBA on t shirts after several makes and lots of blog posts. That was my first foray into pattern adjusting. It’s made such a difference to the fit. And then the measurements on my next make said I didn’t need a FBA, so I didn’t do one and lo and behold it was too tight in the bust. So I gave it away I was so frustrated with myself for not putting my hard earned skills to use. Next up I think is figuring out a FBA on a princess seam (I made a Lola dress, the fit was really annoying, the pattern piece is quite a scary shape to start with as it wraps around to the back, but I intend to read the curvy sewing tutorial thoroughly, breathe slowly, and plan on just cutting out and making the top half of the dress and not starting the bottom until it’s right) and then after that I need to work out the next fitting steps – you’re large bicep, small waist, full tummy may well be high on my list so thanks for the links, I shall be reading those!
Wonderful post. I’m 44-36-44 and an 34HH/J cup. My biggest fitting challenge is always the FBA. Once I’ve got that sorted, then sometimes I benefit from a forward shoulder adjustment (not sure why it depends on the pattern yet) and also a sway back adjustment. I’m 5’4″ so there are sometimes hem adjustments. I’ve been thinking I have the narrowest shoulders ever, but my next project is going down another size at the neck – maybe the shoulders are falling off me so much because I’m using a size too large in the first place. I’ve not attempted to sew trousers yet, but I have made leggings, and the Cake espresso leggings pattern, where I cut it to my measurements, was a wonderful revelation in making clothes which fit first time.
I love this post! I have to make a myriad of fit adjustments: narrow shoulder adjustment, shorten waist, shorten shoulders, small waist adjustment and FBA. From experience I know that a pattern is never going to fit me out of the box. And I’m ok with that. That’s why I have such trouble with RTW, I have a lot of specific adjustments I have to make. We’re all different shapes, we have different preferences when it comes to fit – and that’s so awesome about sewing: if we have the right tools we can all get the fit we want!
Great post, our bodies change all the time. The more we learn about fit the better. No matter what your size, age or style of dress fit and proportion make all the difference. I have sewn for myself and others for 50 years, no one is the same and we all have fit preferences. Keep up the good work and spread the knowledge.
I loved this post. I have unsuccessfully tried following fitting tips from magazines many times. Took the time to look at the FBA noted in this post and can’t wait to try adjusting for my I cup size. For the first time, the directions make perfect sense! Hope it works!
The elusive fit question! It is ever changing, changes with pattern and fabric choice and obviously, sewer preference.
I like fitted clothing and can’t do shapeless styles. At 5’5″, I have a short torso and long arms and legs. I primarily sew Big4 so my adjustments are fairly consistent.
Narrow shoulder, FBA, swayback (sometimes I skip this), remove front crotch length and add to the back in pants. Lengthen sleeves and pants (sometimes). I need to try a bicep adjustment again. I usually just fudge it because I just can’t get the pattern tissue to play nice after slashing and spreading!
This is a great post. I love to see women who sew and their measurements are close are even like mine. I have been taught to tweak the patterns for me so it will fit my measurements. I love to see the same patterns on different people, it a GREAT visual too. I know automatically If I need to change the length or I just don’t like the pattern at all.
Thanks so much for this really great, and encouraging post. I want fit to be magically exactly right whenever I sew, but it isn’t, of course. I am going to have to master the FBA because I get terrible gaping back fabric and armscyes you could drive a truck through when I cut patterns to my full bust measurement. Summer is coming and I can no longer hide under a cardigan!
I’ve just attempted my first fba using your tutorial. It hasn’t exactly worked but I think I just need a few tweaks and I won’t be far off. I also always have to lower the neckline, make a narrow shoulder adjustment and sometimes shorten the bodice. I’m still learning a lot!
I am very short( and getting shorter,)at 4’9″ but long waisted, full busted,narrow shoulders,short limbed. Shopping is hard. I have to adjust tee shirts,sweaters and pants? forget it. A new pattern in pants goes: adjust pattern, throw the first pair away(planned) 2nd pair, good for gardening in, third pair,wearable or better.
I love this post. It is crazy the mystery around fitting and how it discourages new seamstresses and experienced ones too! I do an FBA, shorten hem and sleeves, narrow shoulder adjustment and swayback adjustment. I usually have to make the waist bigger and the hips narrower. I am 41 35 41. I would like to get better at doing a full tummy adjustment. I am still practising all these adjustments. I am getting better at it, but it is a journey. When things fit though,….wow, I feel like a million bucks! A TNT is the way to go!
Great post! I’ll never forget my disappointment when the first thing I sewed for me didn’t just fit 🙂
I am trying to get around to building a short / bodice block against which I can compare all patterns, but I keep getting distracted by wanting to sew things I can wear!
I would also like to try the patternless draping method (like Chinello from Great British Sewing Bee, if you watched that). Has anyone tried that? It seems perfect for those of us who aren’t averagely proportioned…
This is a GREAT post. The only fit adjustment that has stayed the same in all my years of sewing has been the waist length. I have been sewing since I was 12 I am now 50, and can tell you that I don’t fit and wear my clothes like I did when I was 18. At the young age my clothes were close and tight fitting and not comfortable. Now I just like my fit to be comfortable but still look top notice. Great post.
You mean you got taller? Dang! (I did get a quarter of an inch with a hip replacement, but not enough to notice)
Styles changed and so have I. But I still have to shorten from the waist down, lengthen from the waist up, broaden the back, flatten the chest and make room for the backside (are we calling it the FRA (FullRearAdjustment) yet? And I don’t wear what I wore. And that’s good.
I did grow 1′ 1/2″ not sure when. I meant that I still have to make a short waist adjustment (only 15″ from base of neck to waist.). I am so happy to see all the wonderful things everyone is sharing, by sharing we all grow in knowledge.
I agree. RTW never fit me and neither do patterns straight out of the envelope. However, pattern adjustment is what discouraged me from sewing. When I read a blog and the sewist details all the adjustments that went into making a garment I go cross-eyed (seriously, I tune out). It’s like they’re speaking a foreign language. My first (serious) introduction to sewing was without patterns–take your measurements, add ease and seam allowance, mark the fabric, now cut and sew. Learning to use patterns was confusing until I discovered slopers/tnt patterns. They cut to the chase and I don’t have to do the same ‘here we go again’ adjustments every time I make something. Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic turned me on to that and she can really work a TNT pattern.
Well, I have just started sewing, so I am by no means a fitting expert. However, I am a petite with a tummy.
I have to petite-size everything, which includes every vertical seam – waistbands, collars, cuffs, pockets, you name it. Then I have to narrow the shoulders, make some extra room for my rather large waist and, as soon as I dare to attempt to sew something with sleeves, I will have to make them a bit bigger around the biceps.
So far, it’s been a lot of work. But then I look at myself in RTW… Just no.
Great post! It can be so intimidating to a beginner (at least, it was to me) to read a blog post where someone details the dozen fit adjustments they made. We all start somewhere, and we all have different standards as to what’s “good enough”. My standard is “Does it look better than something I could buy in RTW?” Others have a different bar and want to see nearly every wrinkle gone.
As far as my own adjustments, I nearly always do an FBA of some sort and petite adjustments. Sometimes I need a full bicep adjustment if a sleeve is particularly close-fitting–that’s something I’ve learned to always check, even though I don’t need it about 75% of the time, but if I do need it, I know that a too-tight sleeve can kill the wearability of a garment.
I always do a FBA, also do length adjustments in long sleeves…short forearms! And the short sleeves on patterns are too short for my comfort…so I add at least an extra 2 inch in length there . So, sleeves are my biggest bugger.
Hear, Hear, to everything you said. I now do FBA after having them demystified on several websites like this one and was asked by a friend “Where did you buy that blouse?”. Brilliant.
I am in total agreement with Carolyn, This was a wonderful and encouraging post! I have enjoying all your post. Keep them coming!
I took a class and drafted my own patterns. The only problem is I haven’t taken the time to make anything yet.
*clap, clap, clap* That was a perfect post on fitting! You hit all the bases and the two most important to me – that patterns are a jumping off point and that fit can be subjective. It depends on what the sewist is comfortable wearing! What a wonderful encouraging posts for sewists!
I pretty much always take a sway back adjustment. Sometimes I feel like my arse starts at my bra line. If I would ever get up the nerve to make pants, I know they would need a major adjustment to both the front and back crotch curve to accommodate the tummy and the arse. Sometimes I take a narrow shoulder adjustment too. A lot of it comes down to what brand of pattern I am using though. As you sew more you learn which types of patterns are the easiest to fit your body and what fabrics are going to be more forgiving.
Just go for it(making pants) remember it is just fabric and thread not a life saving procedure. Even when things don’t turn out as well as I hoped they are still better then RTW.