I’ve long been an advocate of sewing with Tried ‘n True Patterns. Primarily because once you’ve got the fit down, it’s easy to make design changes to your pattern. It allows you to experiment with different types of fabric and embellishments too. A TNT pattern also lets you use the pattern pieces you know fit with a new fresh out of the envelope pattern…making pattern alterations easier to do.
I know many sewists believe that once they’ve used a pattern two or three times that it’s a TNT. And I guess in some circles it is. However, I believe that you need to use a pattern 5 or 6 times, for several different seasons and in a variety of fabric types before you actually know how that pattern is going to behave in most situations. I say most because every now and then a fabric will throw you a challenge and the pattern’s TNT status goes right out the window!
I like to encourage sewists to develop a TNT pattern for the basic garment types you wear. So a dress, top, jacket, skirt and pants pattern would be optimum. A well fitted TNT pattern for any garment type in my opinion is not achieved overnight. Personally I’ve been working with my main dress pattern for at least 15 years and as I gain and lose weight, I make adjustments to the pattern. Even when styles/trends change, a change is made to my TNT patterns to reflect that.
Even as I wear the finished garment and deal with its “wearability factor”, I can be mentally editing my pattern for the next use. Which is another important point, you need to be creatively challenged to see this pattern in a lot of different views to use it again. I know when a pattern can be taken to TNT status by how many versions I can “see” when I’m cutting it out, sewing it up and even wearing it out and about.
So why would you want to use a pattern over and over again? Especially since there are so many patterns out there made by a variety of companies, both independent and the Big 4? Well why not? There are only so many garment silhouettes and all patterns are just a variation on a theme. So if you’ve taken the time to get a pattern to fit you, why not use it again? Why not cut it up? Why not use it to emulate a look you saw in a catalog? A movie? On a website? Why not use a border print fabric to transform it? Or take a woven fabric, change your TNT pattern up and use it as a knit fabric? See the possibilities are endless.
A TNT pattern allows you to move past fitting and wearability challenges and move onto the creative side of sewing. It allows you to experiment with embellishments, different fabric types, fabric manipulations…all of the things that drew you to sewing. I mean after you got well fitted clothing!
Why don’t you join me on this TNT journey? I’ve been traveling this road for 15 years now and have experienced amazing creative freedom. Made some garments in designs that plus size sistahs weren’t featured in…took flights of fancy by allowing the fabric to speak to me…and basically stepped out of the box that RTW designers put plus size women in.
I can make whatever I want, in whatever color I like, using the latest details and styles that are currently trending! That’s why I use TNT patterns. So why won’t you join this journey and experience creative freedom too!
Thanks for this article! I’m brand new to the sewing blogs and have been confused by the TNT concept. This helps a lot! Thank you!
TnT patterns have been on my to do list for a while now and it is mostly due to your sewing Carolyn! Your blog has inspired me from the day I found it.
This is such great advice Carolyn – I’m newly back to garment sewing for myself . I find I’m easily distracted by new patterns , then discouraged I’ve spent so much time on fit & it doesn’t .
Thanks for the wonderful ideas on TNT .
Carolyn – I love your blog
After all the tedious work to get a pattern to fit you perfectly we should all use our TNT patterns over and over and over. As a designer, I have done this for years as my figure changed, love your blog. Keep up the great work!
That should have said ‘sewing techniques’ not ‘seeing techniques’!
How do you edit posts once you’ve posted them?
This was a good post that got me thinking. I would like to achieve some TNT patterns. I am STILL after many weeks still agonising over fitting- making a dress form but not quite finished- doesn’t look like me so I need I make yet more changes. Made a Laurel top and nailed the FBA and gaping armhole, only to find shoulders too far down my arm and armhole far too low and back neck gaping- I could go on…feeling a bit fed up because I am good at seeing techniques but just can’t make myself anything until I conquer this fitting issue. Bought a Butterick toile pattern to see if that helps and a copy of Fit for Real People which a looks as if it will help, but DYING to make myself something in real fabric! I love this new website- I am not as gorgeously voluptuous as some of you ladies, but am 5′ 1′, ten stone ish (very ish), large boobs (ish), and full tummy (4 babies) with no waist to speak of. So I love seeing how fabulous you look and am trying to get the same confidence myself. Keep up good work! Linda (Wales, UK)
Hi Linda! Sounds like you are doing all the right things to work out ho to fit yourself… but if you want an online fitting buddy, you could always click over to the forum (in the righthand side bar) and sign up for a project mentor. I”m sure we could find somehow who’d be excited to help you figure out your fit! 🙂
Thanks for your reply! I think I will get myself a mentor. Let you know how it goes. Exciting!
Linda – can I also say that many of my original versions of my TNT patterns were not perfect but because of economics and time invested in them, I wore them anyway. That taught me things about working with and wearing patterns. Sometimes things that I thought fit horribly, wore better during the day than things that I thought fit well and sometimes in the wearing I realized exactly where I should change something to make it fit better. To me fitting is a process. It’s something that occurs with much work but it is so worth it when you work it out. Don’t be discouraged because I’m sure that you are achieving a better fit with your hand mades than you get in RTW.
TNT dresses are great; you can get so many different looks by drafting new skirt pieces, or changing the sleeve length. Plus, if you need a sew-jo boost, a TNT is a great way to go, something you can whip up without stressing over it.
Oh Bravo! I am a firm believer in using what you got and what fits you. I’m lucky to have developed over the years a couple of TNT pant patterns, a skirt pattern, and three top patterns. These serve as tunics, dresses and even coats/dusters with some modifications. Out of a simple T shirt pattern for wovens, I have empire waist tops, crossover tops, A line, hi/lo if I want it, scoop, U and V necks and every sleeve length and style you can think of with the exception of raglan, and I’m working on that! I don’t consider a new pattern TNT until I have done at least 3 versions and armed with my own ideas, pinterest and many of the sewing blogs, I can get the essence of what I like about one thing or another with my tried and trues!
As a relatively new sewist, I am excited to get to the point where I can worry less about getting a proper fit and more about the creativity. Thanks for sharing your experience with patterns.
So far I only have one TNT pattern and it is for a t-shirt…er…t-shirts. But, the main reason I started sewing again was because I was sick of the way RTW t-shirts fit. If they went over my hips, they were like a tent over my shoulders, and length…can a girl get a shirt long enough to cover her tummy? Not to mention if it was long enough after three wash cycles it started to resemble a crop top, but not in a good way.
I have exactly the same reason for starting sewing again ;). So far I produced 7 shirts from my TNT, ranging from a very drapey rayon jersey to a medium weight interlocked on. The fit is not always spot on, but 100 percent better than everthing that RTW could offer me.
Hi Carolyn, I would love to have TNT pattern. I know how to sew, but fit always big problem for me. I am short 5’2”, short waisted and with little round belly. Where do I start ? How can I make this TNT pattern? I love your blog and all your dresses, you are really good in what you doing. Thank you, Yana.
She is saying you take any pattern, make muslins, get all the fit issues worked out…and then make it a few more times, without fit worry! Worth the work.
Thanks Angela – that is exactly what I was saying!