Sewing For My Curves: Morven

Heya Everyone!!! I’m Morven and I’m really happy to participate in the Sewing For My Curves series. You can see what I get up to sewing-wise on my Instagram @morvens_handmades and sometimes I even blog about my sewing explorations.

Clockwise from top left: Anna dress with Enid sweater, Anna dress, Anna dress

My Figure:

I guess I’m pear shape? Narrow shoulders, smaller upper body and wide hips constitute a pear shape, doesn’t it? I’m definitely not an hourglass, so yeah, I’ll go with the pear. Who’s hungry now????

Measurements/ body shape

Upper bust: 45.5″
Full bust: 48″
Waist: 42″
Hips: 54″
Bra size: 48C – which is hopefully the right conversion from a 110D European bra size
Height: 6’1”
RTW sizing: No clue, because I don’t buy clothes anymore, apart from leggings and panties, so something between 22-24. The size I cut for the Big 4 patterns is usually size 22.

Clockwise from top left: Cropped biker jacket, McCall’s 6754 with pleated skirt, Rigel bomber jacket

Adjustments I typically make

• I’m tall, like really tall, so most patterns are far too short. So my first adjustment is always adding length to everything. For example, I normally have to add about 5-10 cm of length to the bottom of a skirt and about 4cm to the bottom of sleeves.
• In comparison, my bust is not that big, so I usually don’t have to do a FBA, but what I’ve realized only lately is that my shoulders are quite narrow, so I have to do a narrow shoulder adjustment.
• Because of my hips, I have to grade between sizes and make the bottom half 1-2cm larger.
• As I prefer an empire dress style, I usually also crop the bodice, so the bottom finishes slightly above or at my natural waistline.
• If a pattern doesn’t offer a sleeve option, I add one, because I don’t like showing my upper arms, so a sleeve pattern is a must.
• I discard any pockets, because I hate pockets in dresses. I also leave out zippers in dresses. I do know how to sew invisible zippers, lapped zippers and so on, but I hate having to pull them up and down when getting dressed.

Left to right: Lady Skater, Linden/Moneta bodice, Lady Skater skirt

My Styles

Dresses, nothing but dresses. I don’t wear skirts and I’ve only made a few pants to go walking in, so my go-to outfit is a dress, because I only need to put one garment on and I’m already dressed. Saves a lot of time, if you ask me.

If I need an extra layer of warmth, I add a cropped sweater to my outfit. I’ve made thousands of them already, well at least it feels like it; they’re so easy to make and it only takes about two hours.

Before I knew how to sew, I used to only wear trousers, mostly black and layered with a long top. Quite dreary. With the plethora of beautiful fabrics and patterns now available, I can build a myriad of styles in lots of different colours I wouldn’t be able to buy in a shop, at least not in my size, and the bolder the print the better.

I love to make fit and flare dresses, because I think that works best with my figure. I like the idea of fitted/shift dresses and pencil skirts, but I just can’t see myself in them, so I haven’t tried them out yet.

However, my one true love is making coats and jackets. It is quite difficult at first and takes a lot of time, but it’s so worth it and you stand out even more. Which I can’t really complain about, as I tend to stand out anyway because of my height.

My Go-To Patterns:

Left to right: Cashmerette Turner, McCall’s 6754

Jersey/Knit Dresses: On a day to day basis I wear secret pyjamas to work. i.e. knit dresses. My go-to patterns for all my oh-so-comfortable work attire are the Lady Skater, the Moneta and the McCalls 6754 dress. I can’t get enough of voluminous skirts, so I usually pair a fitted bodice with lots of skirt, if I’ve got enough of the fabric to play with.  

Cashmerette Upton dresses

Non-Knit Dresses: On and off I also make traditional dresses out of cotton or voile, which is so lovely to wear in summer, and recently I’ve discovered tana lawn, which is a dream to work with. My go-to pattern at the moment is the Upton dress, I’ve already made five versions and have planned another two. My other go-to pattern is the Anna dress, as I adore the bust pleats and kimono sleeves, though I always lengthen mine to the elbow. I don’t really like the look of a gathered skirt on my body, so instead I make pleated or gored skirts to go along with the fitted bodice.

Vogue 9040, Simplicity 7461, Vogue 8346

Jackets/Coats: Ever since the Rigel Bomber Jacket came out, I’ve been a fan of that shape and have made at least seven or eight bomber jackets, mostly with the raglan sweater, but recently also with McCalls 7100, which is a great pattern. I always line my jackets, because I want the insides to be as pretty as the outside, and as the patterns don’t provide them, I have to make up my own pattern pieces for the lining, not that difficult, but you do have to measure and adjust.

I have made four coats so far and have two more planned, but my all time favourite is my red vintage-like coat Vogue 8346, because of its wow-effect. But the one I wear most of the time is Simplicity 7461, as I not only added an extra padded lining for warmth, but also a special interlining, so I can ride my bike even when it’s freezing cold, because the wind can’t get through.

Future Sewing

Next up on my list are two Upton dresses, one to wear to a baby christening and the other to wear to a wedding. I’m also planning another warm raincoat, the pattern I used before is Eisblume, and I’ll  probably be using that one or maybe the Waver Jacket, not sure yet. I’m also planning on sewing an early spring coat, maybe I’ll make another V8346? We’ll see. Moreover, I’ve  bought some books on making your own patterns, so I’ll be venturing into an exciting and frightening new area of sewing.

Wish me luck!