Hi all!!! I’m so happy to be here today to talk about how I sew for my curves! Check out the others in the Sewing for My Curves series, too!
I’ve long considered myself a pear. I’ve been at least 2 sizes bigger on the bottom ever since puberty blessed me with generous hips, but as I’ve aged I’ve developed more of a stomach and larger breasts, so I’m no longer sure if I fit into one of the main fruit shapes. I have an average back width, narrow back waist, full breasts, small stomach, ample hips, and full biceps and calves.
Upper Bust – 38”
Bust – 42”
Bra Size – 36F/G
Waist – 36”
Hips – 47”
In general I wear a 12-16 in Indie patterns and a 18-22 in Big 4 patterns. I generally grade from the smallest size for the shoulders/back to the largest size for the hips.
I only wear RTW pajamas and tank tops. Usually a M/L on top and an XL/XXL on bottom. My goal is to eventually make all my clothing except shoes!
This is something I am very much still sorting out.
Full bicep adjustment– Admittedly I prefer sleeveless dresses, but I recently went on a quest to get a sleeve to fit and found I need to add 2-3 inches of width to the bicep.
Full bust adjustment – Especially since I usually have to pick a size smaller for my shoulders, so a FBA is a must.
Narrow front darts- This leaves me more room in the stomach of a dress.
Grade between sizes- I grade out to a larger size at the waist, and then grade out one more size at the hips.
Sway back adjustment– To eliminate pooling of extra fabric at the lower back.
Even with all those adjustments I found the back of patterns to be too wide so I have started using the narrow back adjustment in this article. It has worked wonders in eliminating the pooling of fabric I’d get between my shoulder blades. Now I only need a very slight sway back adjustment.
With all these adjustments I am more likely to hack a pattern I already know fits rather than attempt sewing a new pattern.
I love dresses. My mom told me when I went to kindergarten I asked for all dresses to wear to school. I know most people love them, but I find jeans to be really uncomfortable compared to the freedom of a skirt. Women have been boss ladies in skirts for centuries, who am I to argue with history? So here are a few of my favorite styles.
Mock Wrap Dresses/Knit Wrap Dresses – I love the way a wrap dress hugs my figure and shows off my narrowest part. Slinky and sexy.
A-line Skirts – Something that glides over my hips and helps balance my bust.
Pull on Knit Dresses – Because they require no iron and can be pulled on with no fuss when you’re exhausted.
Classic Fit and Flare Dresses – My long time favorite style, but also the shape that is giving me the most trouble right now. In my youth, when I could wear spaghetti straps, these were so easy, and now that my whole body is fuller and need more support, I’m still learning to make adjustments. Recently I’ve stopped using dirndl skirts and find myself favoring pleats and gores.
Next up on my list of items to make items with a little more interest. Fun with stripe placement, dart manipulation, and incorporating more trims. And hopefully getting past my anxiety over tackling a shirt dress!