Same Pattern, Different Bodies: Seamwork Jill Coatigan

In honor of the #CurvyYearofSewing Jacket and Blazer theme, we are excited to show you two different version of the Seamwork Jill Coatigan. We both agree that this will be a fabulous layering piece for the upcoming spring weather here in the northern hemisphere, and should work equally well for those of you who are heading into fall.

When planning the jacket and blazer theme for March and April, Andie and Megan realized that they had both been eyeing the Seamwork Jill Coatigan, so they decided to give it a go! They both agreed it looked like a great beginner option (this is Megan’s first coat of any kind and while Andie has made a few coats, she was looking for a simple project to help with the transition in seasons) and of course has a pretty good size range. Features we were excited about include:

• An inclusive size range: 33″/33 cm – 54″/137 cm bust and 35″/89 cm – 58″/147 cm hip
• Seamwork uses a different draft for plus sizes (16-26), which is designed for a DD cup
• An oversized fit (7+” of ease according to the fit guide)
• Simple construction but easy to customize
• Designed for medium to heavyweight coating or substantial sweater knits
• An awesome curvy model rocking the product photos!

Megan

• Measurements: Bust –45″/114cm, Bra Size – 40C, Waist – 41″/104cm, Hips – 51″/130cm, Height – 5’7″/170cm
• Body Shape: Pear
• Pattern size used: I sized down pretty aggressively, my measurements put me in an XL bust, 2X waist and hips but I decided to cut the size L, grading up an extra inch at the side seams below the bust for a total of 4″ added. The XS-L pattern and the XL-3X patterns are on different pattern sheets because they have different drafts, so I couldn’t just grade between sizes. I am happy with the fit on the sized down version. I did this partly because I used a heavy sweater knit that had some stretch to it and partly because of my pear shape; I really dislike when things are oversized though the bust. The L has a finished bust measurement of 51″, which still gave me 6″ of ease through the bust. I recommend looking at the finished garment measurements if you decide to make this and use your own judgement about how oversized you want it to be.
• Alterations: I didn’t make any other fit alterations other than those listed above. I omitted the kick pleat in the back (and the center back seam with it) because I thought it would be bulky in this sweater knit and I was short on fabric. I would also suggest reading the instructions with a bit of a critical eye, there were a few steps I altered slightly because they seemed strange.
• Fabric: An awesome textured sweater knit from my dearly departed Santa Fe Fabrics (RIP). It has about 30% crosswise stretch and does not stretch along the grainline.
• Fit: Overall, I’m really happy with the fit. I love the modern style and I’m glad I sized down. I have some drag lines along the sleeves that I will have to figure out if I decide to make another, but I’m living with them for now.
• Changes for future versions: I think this coatigan is going to be great for spring, but I doubt I need another version. In this gray sweater knit, I think its going to match everything. I recommend this pattern for anyone wanting to try out something coat-like for the first time, but I don’t think there is space in my wardrobe for two coatigans!

Andie

• Measurements: Bust –51″/130cm, Bra Size – 44HH, Waist – 48″/123cm, Hips – 54″/137cm, Height – 5’3″/160cm
• Body Shape: Rectangle
• Pattern size used: 2XL
• Alterations: I shortened the coatigan significantly due to fabric shortage. The coat is probably about 15 inches shorter than designed. Ideally, it would have been good to only shorten by 7 inches so it would hit me at mid-thigh, which is where the pattern was supposed to hit. However, I had to shorten more because I was trying to get it all on a smaller piece of fabric than I had. I also sized the arms up a bit. While they are a really loose fit, the fit would have been *just* my arm measurement. I sized up the sleeves by 2 inches to get a loose fit. I agree with Megan about some strange instructions. I also often did it a bit differently. The way Seamwork describes how to do something is fine, but I often think they choose a more complicated route for a simple sewing project.
• Fabric: My main fabric is a wool knit. It has maybe 20% stretch. On one side, there is a floral pattern and on the other side is thin stripe. I chose to use the stripe for the main parts, the floral for the facing. I also used a darker grey wool coating fabric with no stretch for the tie, belt loops, and pockets.
• Fit: The fit it very loose. I think the tie really helps give it shape. With a bit more length, the loose fit would look fine without the tie. I really like the fit and think it reflects the fit in the original photos pretty well. The arms are a bit long on me, but I tend to like that in coats and cardigans.
• Changes for future versions: I wouldn’t make any changes except to have enough fabric to cut it to the length that it should be. It’s actually a really lovely and cozy oversized coatigan. It’s great for a beginner to start sewing coats and a nice casual coat for transitioning into either Spring or Fall.