In honor of the CSC’s Shirtmaking Month, I’ve put together a Same Pattern, Different Bodies post for the Grainline Studios Archer Button Up Shirt, darling of the indie sewing pattern world and seemingly everybody’s favorite relaxed fit “boyfriend”shirt.
The Archer pattern is for a dartless, loose-fitting button up shirt, goes up to a size 18 (B: 44″, W: 37″, H: 47″), which is not the most expansive size range. However, several women who count themselves amongst the curvy have made it, so I thought it was worth a look to compare how they’ve tweaked the pattern to work for them!
Manju
Manju is an Archer-making machine. She has made the pattern six (!) times in a variety of fabrics, from linen to flannel to denim.
For her Archers, she started with a size 18 and the only change she’s made has been to shorten the sleeves by 3.5″. She says that she has considered narrowing the sleeves, too. 
Mary
Mary has made the Archer twice, once in a sunny yellow and once in perky polka dots. She kicked off her Archer adventure with a sleeveless yellow version, to which she added a dart. She also sewed it with wider seam allowances than called for. 
For her second Archer, Mary made a lovely cotton polka dot version in a size 16, with a 4″ FBA (adding a bust dart) and a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment. She found the sleeves to be extremely long and wide (3″ too long and 4″ too wide at the cuff). If she makes the Archer again, she would shorten and narrow the sleeves and add a tower placket.
Kate
Kate has made both an Archer shirt and an Archer dress. For her Archers, made from cotton lawn, she started with a size 14 and did an 1.5″ FBA that added a bust dart. She also did a full bicep adjustment, shortened the sleeves, and narrowed the cuff. For her dress hack, Kate lengthened the pattern by 8-9″ and made the bodice slightly more A-line. Kate says she has plans to make more Archers and will continue to perfect the sleeve fit by altering the length and tightness of the cuff slightly.
Shams
Shams made a very cool, asymmetrical plaid Archer, inspired by a Burberry shirt she saw. Her Archer, made from a large scale plaid taffeta, is a size 8 with a darted FBA to add width and length. She also 1/2″ removed from the shoulders.
Meg
For my first version, made from double gauze, I made a straight size 14 and found the hips to be a little bit snug and the sleeves quite long and wide.
For my second version, in thick flannel, I went with a 14 bust/shoulder, graded to 16 at the hip. I narrowed the sleeves from a size 14 at the shoulder to a size 10 at the wrist and cuff. I also shortened them by 3″. I finished them hem with bias tape because the flannel was too thick to double turn on the curved hem. If I make the Archer again, I may lengthen the body ever so slightly because, looking at the photos, I am finding it a little bit short on me.
Hi. My comment is not about any of the people who sewed the Archer shirt , but about the shirt itself.
I’ve seen it made up on many different body shapes and this helps me choose weather it would be the kind of shirt I’d want to make. I have to admit though I do like to know people’s height. I’m short clothes look very different on short than on tall.
I think all the women who made this shirt have done a brilliant job sewing it. The fabric choices are lovely .
It is meant to be a relaxed fit, slop around the house kind of shirt, and it fits its purpose .
Thankyou to all the women who have put themselves out there to show how this shirt looks. I appreciate the time and courage it takes to do that.
Seeing it made up makes you think yes that the one or no ,not for me.
A suggestion on making comments – type out you comments in a word document and let them sit for awhile. Then read them out loud. If the letter sounds ok, then submit. Once you hit the submit button, it’s too late to call back the words.
Mary in AZ
Mary, that is wonderful advice for commenting and for life! <3
I’m pretty sure a lot of people wouldn’t bother commenting if they had to open a different document, and then remember to come back to the appropriate web page and post at some later time. And their comment may not even be relevant after other people have commented, or may be redundant or out of context at that point. So this doesn’t seem like the best plan. I can imagine how disjointed the comments section would be if everyone did that, no one quite responding to the other comments.
Hi, I am Manju and am one of the ladies featured in this article. I am going to be honest and say that some of the comments on here have irritated me somewhat. I deliberately chose NOT to share what my measurements are, just like I don’t like to publicise my weight on the internet. That is not to say I won’t share size details, and I have done as Meg mentions, in the “sewing for my curves” series. I believe I am very body positive and when I post pictures of my makes I always include front and back shots as well a detailed review of the pattern (which of course contains my opinions). I for one value the curvy sewing collective, and the work they do, not to mention the fact that the editors/ contributors do the work they do for free. I know people are going to say they are entitled to offer constructive criticism, and of course they are, but if “annonymous” people are going to expect me to publish my measurements for every make I share then I simply will not allow my images to be used by the curvy sewing collective. When I read blogs I never, ever, expect the author to share their measurements. I admire their work and perhaps find something inspiring from it but, honestly, I find it hard to understand what I would gain from reading the measurements of each the people who were featured in this article. Rant over.
Hi, Manju, I completely respect that. One reason I haven’t done a review here is that I don’t want to list my measurements and am reluctant to post pics of myself. I do really enjoy the One Pattern, Many Bodies series, and I get why some people prefer or need as much info as possible about the body of the person wearing/making the item at hand. I really do get it, but that said, I find asking for height, weight, measurements, and body shape to be pretty intrusive and would likely discourage any number of potential participants from posting. Maybe a note about body shape would assuage some of the concerns? I don’t think that’s all that intrusive; I’d be willing to do that (the pic issue remains though). Or maybe a note of typical RTW size (which may not be that helpful given that RTW sizing is hardly consistent)? Of course, if someone is comfortable giving more info, then by all means, they should feel free to do so. I’m body positive, but I think for me this is about respecting privacy and boundaries. I do acknowledge that knowing size, shape, measurements might help me get a better sense of how that same garment would look on me and what adjustments I’d have to make, but is my ease more important than someone else feeling pressured to divulge details they aren’t comfortable releasing? Would feeling pressed to release more personal body stats generate more participation in the CSC or would some people shy away from offering posts? I guess because I am personally so reluctant to post my measurements and photos of my garments on me, especially showing my face, I very much related to your comments.
You have some of my fave garments here at the CSC, and I love your plaid version. Thank you for sharing your work with us. And thanks to the eds here and everyone who participates. I appreciate your work and giving of your time and energy.
Manju – OBVIOUSLY there is no compulsion on you to reveal your measurements, but neither is there any compulsion on the readers of this site to refrain from asking for the information that they would genuinely find useful for the purpose of knowing if a pattern might fit. What one chooses to post on a personal blog is of course one’s own decision entirely, but a little more detailed information is surely only to be expected on a site purporting to be informational. Without a point of reference, either standing by some sort of wall-mounted ruler, or providing at least some information about one’s measurements, photos can be very misleading indeed.
The comments are merely suggesting that more information would make posts like these even more useful; most things in life are better when more information is available, I find. You don’t need to agree, and that’s perfectly OK, but you write as if you have been _personally_ hurt or insulted by mere suggestions and requests, and I cannot understand why.
I would also like to add that commenters are NOT anonymous, but have submitted email addresses to this site. Mine at least is genuine, and you are very welcome to ask the site admin for it and email me privately if you wish.
Like I said in my reply to Manju, I do understand that having the measurements and shape info will help me know more easily if a pattern would work for me, what adjustments I would likely need, and how it would look on me. I think Meg and Gillian are doing a great job taking the comments in stride and considering them.
I don’t look at this series the way I do a review. Here at the CSC, the review format generally includes measurements and shape info, which is why I don’t do reviews here or do the Sewing For My Curves posts. Because in those, I expect some measurements and a note about shape. I look at these as inspiration, largely, but not just. I think there’s a fair amount of useful info here. Each sewer has posted the size she used, if an FBA was done, the size. They’ve noted what they shortened or lengthened, graded out, or taken in. If you go to the size chart, you can get a reasonable idea of measurements of that body. Maybe a way to address the desire for more info balanced with some participants’ wishes to have privacy about their measurements is to make sure the full size chart is included for reference in the post? Then when someone notes they started with a size 14 and added (—) FBA and graded out to an 18 at (—) point, we can follow the measurements without flipping to another site.
In general, I think there has been far too much erosion of privacy and boundaries, especially with the boom of social media. At times, it seems some people feel entitled to (whatnot) from others who participate in the blogosphere or on social media. I’m not saying that is how anyone feels here (because I think the reasons why people would like measurements are sincere and relevant to sewing, not just nosiness), but it certainly is something I’ve seen and experienced in some spaces online.
To a great extent, unless you have posted something here under your own name or other identification (like blog handle) with pictures of yourself, you are anonymous. The fact that someone can go through various steps to obtain an email addy protects you from people knowing immediately or at least easily who you are. And that email? It may fully be the one you use, and completely legitimate, but it can still obscure your identity because its initials, only part of the name, your dog’s name, etc. If I used the email from one university I taught at, it would be no greater a tool in knowing who I am, because it was initials and numbers, I mean the general you here, not any one particular person. My posting handle here is a derivation of my name, but without pics and more info or a name that links to a blog with identifying markers, I remain anonymous. And so do most of us.
Maybe a good compromise so people don’t feel put off by pressure to give measurements to the point they won’t participate here is to print the size chart and each person includes their height and body shape. That with the info provided gives a considerable amount info as a base for readers. Also make sure there is a thorough CSC review of the pattern (linked) and if anyone in the post has sewn for her curves, provide a link in the body, and if any sew for my curves posts have used the pattern, include links. I know that may feel click-baity, but it does take the onus off of someone who may not want their measurements repeated over and over when they participate here and still gives readers easy access to more details, more info. I also know that that may make more work for the editor/writer doing the post, but a trade-off may be to include a single link for each person’s website, rather than multiple ones.
I think this post has generated an interesting discussion about personal space and boundaries and how we access and use information and what readers find helpful. The mods have done a great job here, and I thank everyone for the respectful tone we have.
Manju, I am so sorry you feel offended by people’s comments. That is not a pleasant feeling and we have all felt that way at some point in our life. I don’t think people mean to offend. The internet seems to bring out more directness in people than they would have meeting you in person. I doubt that anyone in the community would ask you (or anyone) in person, what are your measurements.
I hope that you will be able to put the comments aside and continue to participate. I, for one, find your comments helpful and enjoy reading them and seeing the photos. And honestly, I have NEVER noticed that you do not provide your measurements. I am always amazed at the things people focus on in internet communities. You do wonderful work and I am so grateful that you are willing to share with us.
I think that in a pattern review, measurements may be required. But, I do not view CSC as a source for just a review. The Same Pattern, Different Bodies feature is wonderful and I have seen nothing else like it online. I look forward to the articles in this blog. I do not know how you all find the time to do this much work! I enjoy the interaction and cooperation between so many sewists and willingness to share. You encourage the rest of us to join in. I feel so much a part of this group, even though I have not been brave enough to post photos and comments. (I am working up to it!). There is much sharing going on and we should all be proud of the work going on in this community. We learn different things from each person who posts. It is not always necessary to continually post measurements.
Please remain part of this group.
Mary in AZ
Despite my previously-expressed cynicism about the pattern itself, I think the concept of this type of post is excellent; it’s fascinating to see the same pattern on different bodies, especially to see how the same basic style looks on different plus-size bodies. It is also enlightening (and at the same time somewhat disheartening ) to read how problems – whether caused by incorrect grading, or otherwise – which so often beset the larger sizes in Big 4 patterns occur in even the lower end of the plus size range in an established indie.
I concur 100% with those earlier comments which express not just the desire, but the actual need for the maker’s measurements. I think the maker’s/wearer’s height, bust, waist, hips and some indication of figure type would transform a post like this, from merely well written with pretty pictures and worth a few minutes’ perusal , into a top-quality, high-value post to which readers will come back again and again and which will be referenced in sewing blogs and fora all over the internet.
I think it’s fairly clear that we don’t ‘all love this pattern’ as one commenter claims, but I for one would love to see more comment streams of such quality as on this post. We should also all learn to value constructive criticism for what it is, which is encouragement to do even better, and not imply, as one comment does, that lack of sycophancy equals rudeness. Comments which ask for more information or suggest improvements indicate only that the commenter thinks that what is already very good can fairly easily be made outstanding with just a little push or assistance.
Even more value is added to this specific post by comments from the wonderfully-helpful and acutely-observant Mrs Mole, the commenters who describetheir own issues with this pattern, and the constructive responses from CSC staff. Thanks to all of you!
I just want to clear up something that I think might be a misconception here… The CSC is entirely volunteer-run (including all editors and contributors). We don’t have any paid “staff”.
For the record, we’re also completely non-profit and do not accept any paid advertising for the site, either.
We all have our own personal opinions/biases, which sometimes come through in our posts (we are human, after all), but we don’t receive any compensation for our work on the CSC.
So how ought one refer to those hard-working multi-tasking persons who are responsible for moderating comments, responding to them, editing posts, posting them, uploading contributions from readers, administration, updates, archiving and all the other tasks associated with a site of this nature, if not as ‘staff’?
The term is used here in the UK to refer both to those responsible for something who perform their tasks voluntarily without thought of pay, as well as to those who do work for pay or profit.
Oh, that’s so interesting! I’d say in Canada, “staff” definitely implies paid… and paid staff might then have more obligation to the community to provide a comprehensive and responsive service? As volunteers, we try, but can’t do it all. Regardless, thank you for appreciating our multilayered work! <3
Hi Michelle, most of my posts using Nancy as my model show the issues with dartless patterns. Be it a jacket or blouse or dress, adding to the side seams is not enough. Slashing right across the fronts from the single front notches in the armhole area and letting the fabric drop to where there is a space for a horizontal patch will be solution. All these shirts look like they need that correction and then you can add a side bust dart. Every pattern and style will be different but I have been sewing for Nancy for 10 years and using all brands of patterns and yet we do the same alteration all the time. Slashing the front and slashing the back and allowing the fabric to find its proper level works. If any of these women had made a muslin in gingham they could see right away that the lines will never be parallel with the floor no matter how much they add to the side seams. Drag lines point to the problem every time. For those who follow me, they will be very familiar with this technique. I have to do this on my own patterns as well only it is way easier doing it on a friend with pinning the horizontal strips into the vacant space. For those who have some magic formula of say adding 1 inch to the side seams and dropping the front 1 inch it can be frustrating if what the pattern needed was 1.5 or 2 inches and you still have drag lines. Maybe that is why so many women have crossed over to knits that are more forgiving and the patterns can be less precise while the knit fabric will grow longer to as it is worn?
This was very helpful. Thanks!
I’m so glad to hear that I’m not the only one struggling with the ridiculously long and wide sleeves! I thought it was me and my t-rex arms! I look three inches off of the sleeves and had my first Archer almost finished (just had to do the buttonholes and put on the buttons!), but the width of the sleeves was driving me nuts! I finally took the cuffs off and narrowed the sleeves by three inches, but I haven’t finished it yet.
It definitely seemed to be a common problem in the larger sizes, Kelley, it’s not just you!
I agree. The grading on the cuff/bottom of the sleeve is incorrect. The wrist does not grow at the same rate as the bicep. Common grade rules for wrists are half that of the bicep. For reference, I am making a size 18 (with a FBA to add a side bust dart) and one of the first things I did was take 2″ out of the cuff width. I ended up blending to (roughly) the size 10 at the cuff seam. I am tall and have long arms though so and the sleeve length is perfect for me as drafted.
I take it back. As drafted the sleeves are I’ve inch too long! If there is a next time I’ll remove 1/2″ from the cuff length and the other half from the sleeve. Also, the cuff circumference still needs another inch taken out as well, so that’s the 3″ quoted by some of the csc participants.
I love seeing so many different makes on different bodies of the same shirt pattern. Thank you SO much to the contributors. I’m really conscious that you are all generously sharing your makes and your writing time to bring these to us, and that graciousness is appropriate from us all in our comments.
Glad you like it, Sandra!
These are pretty much exactly the same as any men’s casual button down shirt. I’ve made a bunch over the years. Just flip button and placket sides. While I do like and appreciate the lovely makes I am not that impressed with the pattern itself.
I agree – and men’s shirt patterns often come in a much more useful size range for us, than does this one!
This is exactly why I thought a comparison post would be interesting; it’s a popular pattern, but does it work for curvy ladies?
I think that for those of us who aren’t very full busted it does, but the size range puts me off. I have a men’s pattern I can use, several to be honest. Having said that I enjoyed this review. I like seeing what others do with a piece. In, fact I’m thinking of making something longer to wear over leggings after seeing the picrures.
I am struggling with getting an FBA just right on Mc Call’s 6436 shirt, its designed with the dart and 4 cup sizes. It’s me not the pattern. After seeing the Archer with no bust dart I think I will persevere with my 6436. Thank you all for this shirt month it has been most empowering.
I’m happy you’re liking Shirtmaking Month, Elizabeth! Empowering is what we’re aiming for!
I think these shirts look lovely. I have tried and I can’t choose a favorite, they are all well done. Thank-you for all the useful information.
Glad you liked it, Ann!
wow Meg another amazingly detailed and brilliantly helpful blog post. Thank you! I love seeing all the various renditions of a pattern at once. It’s such a lesson in just how different a pattern can be depending on who is expressing and with what fabric. I don’t have the Archer (I know how shocking is that?? :)) but I am a huge fan of Grainline. Three is something just so adaptable about their patterns – their simplicity just cries out for personal stamp to be put on them and despite all the work they take to get them fitting just right we all love them.
Thanks, Kathleen! I love seeing them next to one another!
Would it not have been helpful to give each sewer’s body measurements, next to the size they made and the alterations they found necessary? As it is, the reader has *no idea* if or how the garment might – or might not – fit them, the reader as there is no point of comparison.
I hope you enjoyed the post! Is it a pattern you are considering? We agree, measurements are useful, but logistically it’s not that simple… some people don’t like to post their measurements, and since these makes were made over the last few years, measurements can change.
The post itself was interesting and nicely-written, and the visual comparison intriguing, but without at least some further information on the measuremenst of the people wearing the shirts, at the time they were photographed wearing it, it is – unfortunately – about as much practical use as the picture on the front of a Big 2/3/4/5 pattern envelope.
I agree. It’s a huge complaint of mine with knitting patterns as well. “Pictured in size small” or “user made size 14 with an FBS and a wider hip” really tells me nothing about how the garment is supposed to look, or what I would do to get that look given MY measurements.
Thanks for the feedback, ladies, we’ll keep it in mind for our next post of this type.
In the meantime, you can find measurements for at least some of the women (Mary, Manju, Meg) in our Sewing for My Curves series: http://wp1094.hostgator.com/~waezmq0ac6rs/category/tutorials/common-fit-adjustments-for-your-shape/sewing-for-my-curves/
Hope that’s helpful.
Maybe it would be helpful if there was a review of the pattern for these posts? Maybe released the same day or shortly before or if it is in the archive already provide a link? That way, there’s some info on the pattern itself that conforms to the CSC review style. I do appreciate all the links to the blogs, but after a while, it felt click-baity, and bloggers have their own way of doing things, which is fine and I like and appreciate that, but it does mean that info that the CSC review format includes is not always present in someone’s blog post.
This might also help with the issue of making tons of X item over a few years. Not only do bodies change, but skills and memory. If I’ve been making whatever for a few years, I may be on auto-pilot with the construction and even the fit. I may have forgotten some aspects of the pattern that didn’t line up or where the instructions were unclear.
Having a CSC review would mean having even more info about the pattern and how it works for different bodies and sizes and a better context for each reader to consider how it would work for them– with their skills, their shape, their size, their lifestyle.
Just a thought.
L’Anne,
You may want to sign up for patternreview.com — a valuable site for reviews. Reviews are searchable. It is free to join. I have seen reviews on that site for many of these patterns. I do not see the need to duplicate that here. patternreview.com does not have the same interaction and cooperation between sewists as CSC does. That’s what makes this site so special.
Mary in AZ
I am on PR. Have been for years. I’ve posted more than 20 reviews (well more than that, I just don’t remember how many more than that) and have managed contests. I’m not a fan of PR in many ways, and I have found my issues with the site have really put me off of it. Also, if I want to see reviews by curvy or plus sewers, then PR isn’t that helpful as many (most, maybe?) no longer post there. So sure. I can reviews that may speak to instructions, but I may not get much that helps me figure out drafting, sizing, fitting, and overall quality at the higher range of sizes. Also, given the size-ist and looks-ist climate there, I am even *less* inclined to share my details than I am here. I would never show a photo of my face there, let alone give my measurements. EVER. If it were required in a review, I would never again write one. And probably would never return to it for anything.
The CSC *does* have reviews. One was published today. I’m not suggesting they do anything that they aren’t already doing. I’m just suggesting that to alleviate some of the desires expressed here that the eds make sure these many body posts have a corresponding review.
All lovely fabrics and good construction but all except Shams have the tell-tale drag lines where a dart should be. The side views on Mary show how badly this pattern needs to have bust darts. This is how RTW looks but custom sewing can look so much better and fit a bust well.
Hi Mrs. Mole! Great to see you weigh in here. I don’t know if you saw this in the post, but Mary actually did a 4″ FBA, adding a dart on her sleeved version. Kate did a 1.5″ FBA, adding a bust dart. I agree that the drag lines are still quite visible there, though. I struggle with these same drag lines on loose-fitting styles like the Archer, too, and I do an FBA on everything. I’ve largely resigned myself that they’re just something that some of us have to live with because of our figure types. However, if you have any suggestions on how to improve these beyond the standard FBA/adding a dart, I think a lot of us would be interested.
I just want to chime in with my two cents about the drag lines.
This is a “RELAXED” shirt. It is not supposed to be FITTED. Some drag lines can be expected and I wouldn’t worry about eliminating them altogether on this pattern. There are other button front shirt patters that are more fitted and designed with less ease. For the Archer, I would advise those who are attempting a FBA to add enough so that the front drops down and the side seams are perpendicular to the floor.