Hello CSC! For Shirtmaking Month, I’m reviewing an interesting shirt pattern that hasn’t seen too much action in the online sewing world, the Style Arc Elsie Woven Overshirt.
Elsie is described by Style Arc as a “square shaped shirt… a must have shirt in your wardrobe for all seasons.” The Elsie has a reverse revere collar, patch pockets, roll up sleeves with button tabs, an unlined back yoke, box pleated back bodice, side slits and a two-level hem.
Size range: 4-30, up to bust 58.25”, waist 50.5” and hip 61”
What size did you make? I made two versions of the Elsie, first in floral Cotton + Steel rayon challis (read more about it on my blog here), and second in a cotton lawn that’s a bit sheer and wrinkle prone (more on that one on my blog here). I sewed a size 16 for both.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Bust: 42”, Waist: 36”, Hip: 45.5”, Bra: 38D, Height: 5’7.5”, Pearish shaped
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
For both shirts, I opted not to sew the sleeve cuffs and bias-bound plackets. I just hemmed the sleeves with a narrow hem. If I had added the cuffs, the sleeves would have been slightly long. But I plan to roll the sleeves up on both shirts most of the time anyway, so the cuffs are not missed.
For the cotton lawn version, I opted to sew a lined yoke (using the burrito method) to provide a bit of structure and strength up there.
The instructions don’t call for any interfacing for the sleeve’s button tabs. For the rayon challis version I added a small square of interfacing just where the buttonhole was marked, but the tabs were a bit floppy. For the lawn version, I opted to interface half of the tabs.
For my rayon challis version I topstitched collar because I thought it looked nice and would help the undercollar from rolling outwards. For the cotton lawn version, I went with understitching alone, which was sufficient in this crisp fabric.
On both blouses I disregarded the buttonhole guides, for the most part, opting to place my first button at the bust apex (the top button, maybe ½” lower than the top marking on the pattern) and space the others out accordingly. I think I ended up with 8 buttons on the rayon challis version and 6 (as called for) on the white version.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Par for the course for Style Arc, the instructions are sparse. Fine for the most part, but very brief and no hand-holding.
A few things of note on the instructions for this particular pattern:
- The seam allowances vary throughout. Most major seams are 3/8”, but enclosed seams like the collar and cuffs are only 1/4”. On the pattern pieces, the seam allowances are clearly marked, but the instructions merely say ‘Seam allowance is 1 cm or 3/8”.’ There are no reminders in the remainder of the instructions, so you must pay close attention!
- The instructions neglect to walk you through sewing the split, two-level hem; it’s almost as if they forgot it was there. Like the seam allowances, the hem and splits are clearly marked on the pattern pieces, but the instructions merely say ‘Stitch the hem of the body.”
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
I like it! It’s definitely square and boxy, as advertised, but I think the bust darts hit me in a good spot and I feel it’s fitted enough at the bust to give it just a hint of shape. I would worry, though, if I were busty-er, that the Elsie could easily fall into tent territory, as those bust darts are the only shaping in the pattern.
The neckline and collar I think are really lovely and a gorgeous shape, counteracting the boxiness of the bodice.
I was delighted to find that the sleeves fit me! Hooray for not having to make a full bicep adjustment, which is one of my typical adjustments. Score one for lazy sewing! I also didn’t have to grade out at the hips, another typical adjustment, because of the boxy shape. If you’re keeping score, that’s two for lazy sewing.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I’ve already made it twice, which I feel is evidence of how much I like this pattern! I described the alterations I made above… I’m really happy with the Elsie!
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
Check out the CSC’s shirtmaking resources post for links to how-tos helpful for filling in the blanks of Style Arc’s instructions, particularly for the cuffs and sleeve placket, yoke and buttonholes!
Pattern Rating
Size Range: 5
Instructions: 2
Construction Process: 4.5
Final Fit: 5
Overall Rating: 4.125 I love the style and fit of the shirt, but the instructions leave a bit to be desired.
I never would have considered this shirt if I had not seen this post — what a great-looking top! I do have a question: does this shirt pattern have bust darts? The image on Style Arc’s web site does not appear to include bust darts, but the illustration includes a patterned fabric. I did see just one photo of this blouse made by a sewist and there were bust darts, so I wondered if she added them, or if in fact they are on the pattern?
Oh, interesting- I missed that the technical drawing is inaccurate! Yes, the pattern has bust darts. They’re a bit difficult to see because they’re hidden behind the pockets, but they’re there.
Thanks for the prompt response. I will definitely order this pattern, based on your terrific, helpful review.
You look really gorgeous in these pattern,lovely vintage outfits.
Thanks so much!
I had just purchased this pattern the day before I saw this pattern review. Must say both blouses look fab on you. Can’t wait to start sewing this pattern. I’ve been looking for a slightly professional looking button front blouse. Have some silk and a cotton silk blend that may be seeing this pattern soon.
Thanks for the excellent review. I do so agree Style Arc patterns are wonderful, but the instructions leave quite a bit unanswered.
Thanks, Christina! Silk and cotton silk Elsies will be amazing! I hope you share your shirts with the CSC- we’d love to see them!
This is a wonderful make, both of them…..love the V and neckline detail…would like to make once I get thru this holiday season….appreciate your comments.
Thanks, Laura! The neckline is the best part, isn’t it?! If you make one, be sure to share it with us!
I’ve made two of these as well, and have plans for a third. It’s a comfortable shirt that still looks polished enough for work, and it was a quick sew for me. Mine are a white, pink and black silk print with black collar and cuffs, and the other is a green and plum print georgette. Great pattern, and now Meg has inspired me to make a white version!
I agree! It’s an easy shirt to sew and has very wearable results. Yours sound lovely, Martina!
As always, Meg, you deliver gorgeous results and helpful reviews. I just love, love, love the printed rayon blouse. And the white one looks great too. The neckline on this pattern might work well for women with a large bust (like me) because the V shape of the neckline is very flattering. (I’d have to leave off the pockets) It’s a great style that looks comfortable to wear, but still polished looking. Thank you!
Thanks, Denise, glad you enjoyed the review! I agree that the neckline has the potential to be really great for curvy and busty women- that soft V shape is really nice!
I think that pattern lives or dies based on the quality of the collar points. And you nailed them.
Thanks, Kyra! The collar is certainly the eye-catching part of this shirt!
You must be reading my mind! I’m just planning a shirt right now. I would appreciate an article on matching up horizontal patterns. I tried the Craftsy Shirt class and the Libety shirt as well but my memory is poor so I’m happy to follow a long with you. Thank you.
I think we’ve got a post on pattern matching coming up later in the month!
I always enjoy your posts and projects, Meg. Really like the white version of the shirt – the collar and sleeve lengths are great. What I particularly love, however, is the garment you are wearing under it! Beautifully shaped in the front and it appears to be adjustable from the back (?) Did you also make this?
Thanks, Donna! Ha ha, the garment I’m wearing underneath is just a camisole I bought at Target years ago…
Love your interpretations of thos pattern. They both look great on you!
Thanks, Susan!
That is an interesting pattern! I love both versions each in its own way, but my eye is drawn to the floral one – it is just outstanding! Thanks for sharing this pattern.
Thanks, Patti! I think it’s a lovely pattern. The floral fabric is pretty striking, isn’t it?
Thank you for putting so much work into this post Meg. It’s detailed, inspiring and for anyone (like me for instance!) who will buy this pattern your guidance is enormously helpful. I love Style Arc but it’s true their instructions are “intuitive” 🙂 not a bad thing but you do have to pay attention and when you get it right you want to crow with excitement don’t you? 🙂
Thanks, Kathleen! I do love Style Arc- their designs are just lovely and I love every pattern of theirs that I’ve made. I don’t mind the instructions, but wanted to make sure that people were aware of how brief they are, in case their expectations are for more thorough instructions…