Ladies and gentlemen, your attention please! It’s time for a Pattern Throwdown. Three will enter the ring, but only one will emerge victorious!
Your referee tonight is Jennifer W. from We Bought a Manor. Weighing in at “none of your business,” she is a rectangle from the front, apple from the side, and all party in the back. Her measurements at the time this review was conducted were:
- Bust: 50 inches
- Waist: 44 inches
- Hips: 54 inches
- Bra Size: 40DDD
- RTW: Size 20-24
- Usual Sewing Size: 20-24
Our contenders tonight are:
- Blackwood Cardigan from Helen’s Closet, $14 PDF
- Lisbon Cardigan from Itch to Stitch, $10 PDF
- Jenna Cardi from Muse Patterns, $12 PDF (or $16 PDF for the bundle with additional options)
For clarity, all of the photos in this review are Blackwood (left), Lisbon (center), Jenna (right).
A few important notes from the referee before we begin:
- I tried to sew up all three patterns in similar fabrics, but there are some key differences. The Blackwood is in a luxe linen jersey, which has an open weave (and therefore stretches slightly more, with less recovery than the other cardigans in this comparison). The Lisbon is in a hacci knit, which has less stretch than the other two versions, but maintains a lovely drape similar to the linen jersey I made the Blackwood in. The Jenna is in a thicker sweater knit, which has a medium stretch (somewhere between the Blackwood and the Jenna) but less drape. (You can also see the bulkier seams in the Jenna, which is entirely due to fabric choice and not the pattern per se.)
- The Libson pattern has a long-sleeve and a 3/4 length sleeve option. My version has shortened sleeves, since I was limited by my fabric length.
- For the Lisbon and the Jenna, I did my own thing with button spacing – adding buttons to the Lisbon (because I had them, and I prefer a slightly smaller spacing between buttons) and changing up the location of the buttons on the Jenna to ensure that I had a button right at the apex of my bust.
- I received all three patterns for free from their respective designers, with the understanding that I would write this review giving honest feedback about each pattern’s pros and cons. Thank you to Helen’s Closet, Itch to Stitch and Muse Patterns!
To recap the goal of Pattern Throwdowns: I’m focused on finding the best “knit cardigan” pattern – something I can make and wear 100 times over the next few years. I can play with the details (cuffs, color-blocking, sleeve and hem lengths) indefinitely – what I wanted to find here is the basic block that fits the best through my shoulders, bust, waist/hips.
Let the throwdown commence!
Round 1: Pattern Options and Instructions
Winner: Jenna Cardigan
Let’s start with the fact that there are no losers here. All three patterns are well-drafted, with clear instructions. The notches match where they are supposed to, the technical drawings are sound, and the process for each is quite straightforward. Any confident beginner should have no problem tackling any of these patterns.
Note: these three patterns are PDF only, but each does come with a copyshop version (my personal preference).
Now let’s talk about sizing. For a cardigan, the most important fit is around the shoulders and bust – the waist/hips are easy to grade out as needed. The largest bust size is:
- Blackwood: 48 inches (XXL)
- Lisbon: 46 inches (Size 20)
- Jenna: 48 inches (Size 48)
If you look back at my bust size (50 inches), you’ll see that I’m actually outside the largest size for all three of these patterns. Boo. But fear not, sewing friends, I found that all the patterns ran a little bit generous (moreso than the finished measurements suggested) and none needed to be graded up at the bust to fit me. I did, however, grade out 1-3 inches at the waist/hip to ensure that I had enough ease. So do consider that before you tackled your own versions at home.
I’m giving the edge to the Jenna Cardigan simply because of the variety of options included with the expansion pack. With the three patterns combined, you get two cardigan length options, two necklines, an optional collar, five sleeve options, and three sleeve lengths. As a bonus, all of the sleeve options are interchangeable with other Muse women’s patterns, so you can swap them in and out as desired.
Round 2: Neckline and Shoulder Fit
Winner: (Tie) Blackwood and Lisbon
Both the Blackwood and Lisbon cardigans fit beautifully through the neck and shoulders – snug on my shoulder joint but with plenty of movement ease for my arms. Because the Blackwood isn’t intended to close in the front, it is a bit more forgiving through the entire torso, and that’s something to consider if you’re nervous about fit.
You can see that the Jenna cardi is falling off my shoulders a bit, and the neckline is VERY scooped – so much that my scoop neck t-shirt underneath is showing. After sewing up my version, I went out to investigate if the “too large in the shoulders” problem was just me, but I found similar comments from other sewists. So take heed – if you are narrow-shouldered or extra busty, you will want to consider sizing down and doing a knit FBA to ensure a good fit at the shoulder and across the bust.
Round 3: Bust Fit
Winner: Lisbon
I’m normally most concerned with bust fit, but all three patterns pleasantly surprised me. Because it isn’t intended to close, the Blackwood is very forgiving, but both the Jenna and the Lisbon closed nicely without gaping.
I’m giving the win to the Lisbon because I liked the “under bust” curve on the pattern, which gave me a nice bust shape. The Jenna is a bit more boxy from bust-to-waist, and while it fit nicely, I felt like I wanted a bit more shaping.
Round 4: Waist and Hips Fit
Winner: Blackwood
It’s a bit unfair to compare two cropped cardigans to an extra-long version, but I’m going with what I have – and I love the fit of the Blackwood through the waist and hips. It feels roomy without being baggy, and skims over the bumpy parts quite nicely. (And yes, apparently I forgot to save the photo of the back of the Blackwood, so you’ll just have to trust me.)
Even though the cropped versions of the Lisbon and the Jenna end before my hips begin, I can tell that the longer version of the Lisbon will need a swayback adjustment.
I do love the slightly wider band at the bottom of the Jenna. It feels both modern and vintage to me, while the Lisbon feels very classic with a moderate band.
Round 5: Sleeves Fit
No Winner
I’m not declaring a winner in the sleeves category because I used different sleeve sized and made a few on-the-fly modifications during sewing, but I did want to make a few notes:
- The Blackwood has extra-long sleeves by design (so you can pull them over your hands in chilly weather), so if you have short arms (or just prefer a shorter sleeve), you may want to shorten them by a couple inches. At a minimum, consider making the sleeve cuffs a smidge smaller (especially if your fabric doesn’t have a lot of recovery) since they will slip over your wrists and down over your hands in the original pattern.
- The Jenna is known for strangely wide sleeves – especially from elbow to wrist. You might want to compare the sleeve piece to a well-fitting pattern already in your stash for a quick fit comparison – but definitely baste the sleeve together to check the fit before you sew up the final version.
And the Champion is…
Winner: Blackwood
I’m giving the win to the Blackwood, because I seem to reach for almost every day. It’s well-drafted, easy to wear, modern, comfortable, stylish, and perfectly suited to my current lifestyle. And isn’t that the mark of a winning pattern? I even made up a second version in stretch french terry!
However, a true “button up” cardigan definitely has a place in my wardrobe and if I had to choose one, I would go with the Lisbon. While the Jenna cardi has more options, ultimately I care more about fit – and the Lisbon has the edge for my particular body type here.
That said, for those of who you like to incorporate vintage elements into your handmade wardrobe, the Jenna cardi is a true workhorse and has many fans in the sewing community. Spending a little extra time getting the fit right in the shoulders and neckline will result in a pattern bundle that can generate dozens of different looks for nearly all seasons.
Basically, there is a winner here for everyone!
Next Time on Pattern Throwdown
There are a couple of different holes in my wardrobe that I’m trying to fill. When possible, I try to compare similar patterns head-to-head so that I can be confident I’ve found the best option (since I tend to make multiple versions of the same handful of patterns, an early comparison really pays off). Right now I’m working on joggers, specifically the 5oo4 Diane Jogger vs. True Bias Hudson Pants vs Jalie Vanessa Pants.
Now that you’ve made it through the throwdown, dear reader, please leave a comment. Do you agree with my findings? If you’ve sewn up any of these patterns, how did they work for you? Are there any other knit cardigan patterns you’d like to recommend to CSC readers? And I’d especially love to know – do you pick a single pattern in a category (like knit cardigan) and make it work, or do you like to compare similar patterns to find the best fit?
I do love these posts too! Have you seen the drop pocket cardigan by Jalie? I love the neckline and shoulder fit of that pattern, and that the fronts are lined so it has a nice clean finish, without bands. I made one with the pockets, and then hacked another without. Hmmmm must get that pattern back out!
I always love the pattern throwdown! Even if I am not making those particular patterns I learn a bit with each. I am currently working on a Love Notions Canyon Cardigan. I like the options for very different styles from one pattern.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on these 3 patterns. I just finished printing Jenna and the free Itch to Stitch tank so that I can make a twin set on Friday. Now I’m wondering if I should take a look at the other 2 patterns.
Love them all, but the Blackwood is my fave because, to your point, it’s the most modern design. I wear mine (all four of them!) all the time.
I went a little crazy and pulled out SIX additional pieces from my fabric stash and was ready to turn them all into Blackwoods, before I got ahold of myself. 🙂
Thank you for this great review Jennifer! I have the Lisbon on the way to me from patternreview (she offers a print service now which is perfect for me!) so I was keen to read your review. I LOVE button up cardigans – especially in a nice stretch cotton. It will be my first so I thought I’d like some hand holding through the experience 🙂
I made up a second Lisbon that I really really love! You can see it here: https://instagram.com/p/BbUjl8agyi-/. So versatile!
I have made the Blackwood cardi and found the sleeves to be quite snug. My upper arms aren’t particularly large and I’ve not had to worry about making adjustments in other patterns. Your fit looks pretty good….any thoughts on this please?
It’s funny — the sleeves on my first Blackwood are slim but not tight… I can easily layer it over another shirt or light sweater. But my second Blackwood (in stretch terry) has sleeves that are quite snug — I’ll need to only wear it with sleeveless tops. So I think your fabric choice is going to play a huge role in the roominess of your sleeves — anything with less than 40% stretch may need an extra bit of ease.
Great throwdown. My measures are pretty much the same as yours, except I’m taller, so your notes are really helpful. I personally love the Juniper Cardigan from Jennifer Lauren Handmade – the saddle shoulder is gorgeous, and it fits me like a dream.
Ooh, I was not familiar with this pattern company… Thanks! I love the shape of the Juniper v-neck, very preppy!
Thank you for your reviews and musings. I have narrow shoulders and a big chest. Right shoulder seems particularly more sloppy than the left. Stalking reviews. Collecting fabrics and patterns to try. One day 😊 thanks again. I like the long one best on you.
Thanks for leaving a comment, and for your kind words. I was surprised to discover that knit cardigans are so quick and easy to sew up!
Those cardigans look very nice on you, particularly the pink Stretch Terry. I love that particularly.
I’m not a very experienced, and have always stayed way from knits but I’ve used French Terry to make a hoodie for my son and didn’t realise I could make a cardi with it.
Happy I came across your blog.
The one thing I will note is that the stretch terry doesn’t have quite the stretch that other knit fabrics do — so you might want to size up. Good luck!
Great job! I’m a narrow and dropped shoulder person so I particularly appreciated your comments on that part of the pattern. I love the way you support your conclusions. Thanks!
Why thank you! I find that I often don’t realize little details on fit until I compare them directly to another similar pattern, so these pattern throwdown projects are really helpful in my own sewing!
Very interesting! I had only heard of the Lisbon Cardigan pattern. I appreciate you making patterns from independent pattern makers, as it helps bring awareness to those of us who live under rocks!!! Can’t wait for the jogger throw down (again, only heard of the Hudson pants). I really need to get out more!!
Over the last year I’ve really gravitated to the indie pattern companies — especially Cashmerette, Itch to Stitch, and Hey June. I find their patterns to be impeccably drafted and very consistent across different patterns. This was the first time I tried Helen’s Closet and Muse Patterns, but I was impressed by both of them!
Thank you for your thorough review of these three patterns, I recently purchased the Lisbon pattern but haven’t had the opportunity to make it. Your review was so helpful and makes me want to go ahead and stitch up this pattern! Perhaps I will find time over the holidays. 😊
Do it! I made up another Lisbon Cardigan after writing this post, and it fits like dream! I used two different fabrics, and mage a matching shell for a perfect twinset. My Instagram photo is here: https://instagram.com/p/BbUjl8agyi-/
This is awesome, I reach for Blackwood-style cardigans in my closet all the time, so it’s great to know that would be the pattern to use.
Also, hard to express how much I’m really looking forward to the jogger pattern throwndown!!! I just checked my Pinterest board of patterns I’m interested in, and there are 3 different jogger ones on there already (the Hudson is on there, but also Itch to Stitch’s Tierras and Simplicity 8268 that was previously reviewed on this blog).
I really love my two Blackwood Cardigans — they are so easy to wear!
I hear you on the jogger issue — I’ve made a couple of the 5oo4 joggers, but am eager to try them against the famous Hudson joggers. And I’m intrigued (but also intimidated) by the idea of a woven pair. Stay tuned!
As someone who sewed feverishly every weekend for YEARS too numerous to mention (actually, nothing has changed LOL), I am thoroughly inspired by your experiences with this collection of sweaters. I neither knit nor crochet, but always liked the freedom of, and ability to, “make” my own sweaters. Naturally, this posed a challenged until so-called “cut and sew” sweater patterns appeared on the scene back in the late 60s/early 70s, to be used with knit fabric that could be purchased by the yard like wovens. I was hooked, but quickly learned that all such patterns were not created equal and that dedication and experimentation were required to create something I’d feel sufficiently confident to wear. You have done the same so beautifully, and I must say I appreciate the options you’ve offered! Good job and they look good on you!
Thank you so much! I had originally planned to do this comparison back in June, but needed a break after sewing that capsule wardrobe in May for the CSC. It actually worked out really well, since I wouldn’t have worn them in the summer heat of Virginia — but the weather is perfect now to really test them!
Thanks so much for the kind response! I often talk to my daughter, who also is a sewist (she also knits and crochets) about my adventures with cut and sew designs, which I absolutely love. Although quite accomplished, she hasn’t had much luck with knits, especially those intended to fit closer to the body. I fully intend to share our conversation about your wonderful sweaters! Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving!
My best piece of advice for knits is to really look at stretch and recovery, and also drape. My favourite knit fabric for tshirts is bamboo jersey — it’s soft and drapy, but doesn’t sag or stretch out. For sweaters or cardigans, I love linen knit (but it does stretch, so be careful of too-wide necklines) and modal jersey — which is thicker with slightly more structure, so will skim over the body more.
Thank you for another great pattern throwdown post. I love them! I’ve been debating about the Blackwood since it came out and I have to go for it now. We are similar sizes so it should work pretty darn well. And to answer your question about comparison, I don’t do that. I try one pattern and hope it works.
I don’t think I’ve seen a bad Blackwood, so I feel very confident in recommending it! Good luck and report back!
I’m always grateful for the work going into these throw down posts! So thorough and fun! I bought the Jenna a long time ago but have yet to sew it you’ve inspired me to print it and go for it!
Definitely report back on the shoulder and sleeve fit — I think once you get those right, up be making Jenna’s for days! I love that there are so many options to mix and match.
I’ve made two Blackwoods and love the styling. I especially like the fabric you’ve done yours in. On both of mine I have left the cuff off as I wanted a bit more of an office look but the next one I’m doing with cuffs for what I feel is a bit more casual.
All of the sweaters look great on you. Thanks for sharing all the wonderful information.
You’re very welcome — it’s always fun to write reviews for the CSC. I love this community and how generous everyone is with their feedback and compliments!