Pattern name: Wardrobe by Me Curvy Akinori Kimono Dress, described as “a Japanese inspired kimono dress, hugging the waist with a belt. It appears to be wrapped, but is closed at the front, making it very comfortable and elegant. The dress can be sewn in both knit or woven.”
I stumbled across Wardrobe by Me, a new-to-me indie pattern company, through someone on Instagram (I can’t remember at this point, but thanks to whoever it was!). My interest was immediately piqued by a) the fact that Wardrobe by Me has a line of “curvy” patterns (including jersey dresses, a wrap dress, skinny pants, a knit tunic, among others) and b) the Akinori dress.
I just adored the style of the Akinori dress right off the bat after seeing the versions on the Wardrobe by Me website. The Akinori has all my favorites: cut on sleeves, defined and high waist, v-shaped neckline. Those pleats, too… gorgeous! Plus, I like that it can be sewn in a knit or a woven, provided the fabric is sufficiently drapey.
Size range: The Curvy Akinori pattern goes from size 14-24, which is up to bust size 48.5″, waist 40.5″, hip 51.5″.
There is also a version of the Akinori dress in a smaller size range that overlaps with the curvy range in sizes 14-16. Out of curiosity, I inquired about whether there were any drafting differences between the curvy and not-curvy sizes 14 and 16. Christina, the Wardrobe by Me pattern designer, got back to me very quickly to let me know: “Basically the pattern is identical in the two versions, but the curvy sizes have been tested on plus sized women, and minor changes made to accommodate the curvy figure. The pattern is drafted for a C cup height 5’6″ / 172cm.”
What size did you make? 14 bodice, 16 skirt. I opted to purchase the curvy version of the pattern for this review.
What are your measurements, height, and body type? Bust: 41.5″, Waist: 35″, Hip: 45.5″, Height: 5’7.5″, Body type: pearish
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? No adjustments except to make a narrow hem, rather than a 1″ hem as called for. Next time I would lengthen the dress just slightly.
What fabric did you use? I picked up the fabric on a recent trip to Vietnam. I bought it at the Dong Xuan Market in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. The sales lady insisted that it was cotton (“Cotton, madame!” is an oft-used sales pitch at the market), but I am fairly confident that it’s rayon or viscose. It feels like a nice medium-to-heavy weight rayon challis to me. It’s much more yellow-y than I thought it was when I bought it… damn fluorescent lighting! In retrospect, the busy print is probably not the best choice for showing off the pretty style lines of this pattern for purposes of my review… sorry!!
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
As far as construction goes, I found it to be a fairly easy pattern to sew up. Nothing too difficult for someone with a bit of sewing experience. For me the only tricky part was sewing the half-moon yoke below the bust so that all of the seam allowances were enclosed- I sewed it one way at first and ended up with a twisted mess. After some head scratching and fiddling around I got it right the second time.
The pattern instructions are not for beginners… not a ton of diagrams or detail (hence my head scratching over the yoke part). You’d have to know to finish your seams and the edges of your facings and you’d also need to know to understitch your facings and stitch in the ditch in the shoulder seams, as none of these steps are included the instructions.
I had a few issues with the pattern itself and the instructions. None of them individually are deal breakers, but aggregated, they were a little bit annoying. I think many could be resolved with a little bit more thorough pattern testing/copy editing:
- The PDF pattern conveniently has layered sizes so you can print only the sizes you need. However, I had a little bit trouble lining up the pieces once I had printed, such that the bottom hem is a bit jagged. I just smoothed it out.
- Some of the technical drawings are inaccurate. In some there are pleats on the back mirroring those of the front, and in others there is a center back seam. The back of the dress is plain/pleat-less and is cut on the fold. Additionally, in the cutting plan, the back pattern piece is shown mirrored (not cut on the fold), but the piece itself instructs you to cut on the fold. I also feel like the skirt is not as A-line as it appears in the line drawing. The final skirt is more straight in the back and tulip-shaped in the front.
- There are several minor typos and errors in the pattern instructions, including an error in size chart on the website. I asked Christina about the size chart before buying the pattern and she has corrected it on the pattern itself, but it appears the website has not been updated, as it still shows negative ease in the hips for the final garment measurements.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
Despite my critique of the instructions, I’m really happy with the final dress! The fit is nice: no gaping at the crossover bodice, which is often an issue for me, no peek-a-book bra in through the cut-on sleeves.
I have a few horizontal lines just below the waist seam close to the side seams. It’s not tight anywhere in that vicinity or in the back and my side seams seem to be hanging straight, but there is some strange pulling. You can barely see it, though, I think, so I am not too worried about it.
I do wish the back of the dress had as much nice detail as the front. I almost wish the pleats pictured in the technical diagrams were actually in the pattern! After wearing the dress out and about, I think the difference in detail from the front to the back actually causes the whole dress to shift forward a bit since the front is heavier due to the pleats, yoke and ties. Again, not a dealbreaker, by any means. It’s still a very pretty and wearable pattern as is.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I’ll definitely make this pattern again since it’s the type of comfy, casual dress I like to wear on the weekends. I think you could also make the Akinori in a fancier fabric like silk or crepe and easily dress it up for cocktails/weddings/what have you. I love the elegant pleating in the front and the extra long ties that wrap around your body twice. Very comfortable, stylish and effortless.
Next time I might top stitch the facings down, as they seem to want to pop out a bit (don’t all facings, though?). I’ll lengthen the dress by an inch so I can do the full hem, as designed.
Pattern Rating: (1 is the lowest score, 5 the highest)
Size Range: 4.5 Certainly a wider ranges of sizes than your average indie pattern company, but not as high as some others.
Instructions: 3 Quite minimal and not for beginners. Plus some typos and errors in the technical drawings that could be confusing.
Construction Process: 4.5 No real construction problems, just problems understanding the instructions on how to construct the tricky bits.
Final Fit: 4.75 The fit is quite nice.
Overall Rating: 4.19 I really like the Akinori pattern and I am excited to see what’s next from this new-to-me curvy pattern designer!
Wow! Your version is quite lovely. More lovely than the versions on their own site. Love this! Seems friendly for larger busts too.
Thanks, Jessica! 😉
Hey Meg,
Thank you for a great review, Your comments are both very constructive and helpful 🙂
I have updated all the little discrepancies you mention, and also found a few typo’s. Thank you for pointing that out to me.
The instructions are written for a more experienced seamstress. I purposely focus on writing comprehensive but not overly detailed instructions, leaving the teaching to all my fellow Indie designers. They are all very good at, and passionate about teaching, where as I offer fit and style that resembles RTW clothing. My +25yrs of experience as a production pattern designer is the expertise that I want to share with the sewing community.
When I do not instruct in the areas of how to finish the seams, I do so because I assume that each seamstress has her own personal preference ranging from french seams, to plain old zig zag. It is all a matter of preference, and personal tolerance. Some are very particular others just want to be quick.
The next pattern out for the curvy sizes is the Diana Wrap dress, a classic Diane Von Furstenberg dress. I think it will look fantastic on the curvy figures.
Kind regards, Christina Albeck, Wardrobe By Me
Thanks, Christina! I just wanted my review to accurately describe the instructions, just in case a beginner was thinking of trying the pattern. For me, with a bit of sewing experience under my belt, they were fine!
Great pattern! Can’t wait to make my next one!
Gorgeous dress. I love the print and the details in the pattern with the tie, wrap bodice, and pleats. Just lovely. New to me pattern company! Thanks for the review.
Thanks, Andie! I really love the details of the pattern, too!
What a lovely dress. Thanks for the information about the pattern, I am looking forward to trying it out.
Thanks, Cindy!!
Thanks for the thorough review, I have this pattern printed out, but was not sure about making it up, I think I really need to make one now, it looks great on you!
Thanks, Kate! You should make it! Can’t wait to see yours…
What a gorgeous and ‘en trend’ shape. Thanks for alerting us to this new pattern company. I do wish companies would do more thorough testing though. I’m having a devil of a job with a pattern at the moment, yet its gorgeous so such a shame it won’t rate highly in the drafting score!
Simply lovely dress and I actually think the fabric suits you and the design very well – congrats on this win!
Thanks!! It is a lovely shape, isn’t it, Lesley? That’s what drew me to the pattern initially and what will have me make it again.
Thanks, Lesley! I am really happy with the final dress- pretty and comfy! It is fun to find a new pattern company, too, especially one designing curvy patterns!
I looked at the Wardrobe by Me web site and I wonder how you decided to make this dress. The examples shown are not attractive or well-made. But your dress is very pretty and looks nice. You comments about the lack of directions must be important because while you made a nice dress the others sewists could have used some more help and experience.
Such a lovely dress! I hope the designer reads this review and decides to expand on the instructions to make it more beginner-friendly because I would LOVE to make this dress! In a knit, this dress would be secret pyjamas!
Thanks, Marike! It is so, so comfy and a beautiful shape. It will quickly become a favorite for me!
OMG you’ve found the perfect dress pattern ? You’re a genius for finding knit and woven
Which is terribly important for New Mexico summers (which are basically 9 months of of the year lol) Can’t thank you enough but hope for more of your reviews ??
Thanks!! I also love patterns that can go both ways, knit or woven. Double duty 😉
that is really cute, it looks great on you. I will have to check out that pattern company. I think it would make a great maxi dress as well. Love the colorful fabric.
Thanks, Beth!! Great idea- a maxi version of the Akinori dress would be lovely!!
I am working on this dress now in a black sweater knit fabric. I ended up with the sweater knit because the pattern said not to use anything narrower that 60 inches and my local Joanne’s only had a black sweater knit in that width. ( I was limited by color). But in fact you could use anything from about 50 inches up and the recommended yardage needed to be greater. I bought 3 yards instead of 2 3/4 yards for my size 24 and could have used a little bit more. The directions were a challenge but not that the upper front in done I am in love with the look. I’ll post a picture when I finish.
Can’t wait to see your dress, Sherri! Good eye- I think I didn’t pay close attention to the fabric width requirements. Good to know it doesn’t necessarily need the full 60″.
I love, love this dress! Not sure if I should thank you for the link to the new-to-me pattern store. (wink) The fabric is very pretty too. Not gonna lie … slightly jealous of the world traveling to be fabric shopping in Vietnam.
I’m on the fence about pleats in the back – for me. When I first saw the line drawing I liked them but I also thought … “Uh oh, those pleats will not be kind to my rear end.” 🙂 So I’m actually kind of glad they’re “missing.”
The silhouette reminds me of the Butterick dress you made (rust? orange-y?) a while back, which pattern I also bought and still haven’t touched.
Thanks, Debbie! I am in love with it, too. Ha ha, I didn’t really need another pattern store from which to purchase patterns, either. My stash is so big, but I couldn’t resist!
It is a little bit similar to the Lisette/Butterick dress in shape. This one is more relaxed, though, with no closures or set-in sleeves. I guess I like what I like as far as shape!!
There are many things I like about this dress on you especially – the length and fit is perfect. I love this fabric – it looks like stained glass – perhaps if the half-moon yoke in the front was a different fabric the lines would pop more. As you say the busy design does hide what turned out to be the most challenging part of the pattern 🙂 Such a pretty and comfortable looking summer dress!
Thanks, Kathleen! The fabric reminded me of stained glass, too- I think that’s what drew me to it. Ha, sorry for disguising the pattern details with the busy fabric, though!! Note to self: solids for pattern reviews!
That really is a very nice and versatile pattern, and I’m in total agreement that those pleats would be lovely if they were really on the back as in the line drawing. I’m actually wondering if that’s the source of the pulling and horizontal folds you experienced-you stated that the back of the skirt is cut straight and the front is more of a tulip shape and the whole dress tends to shift. Perhaps it really does need that extra fabric on the back.
But it’s really not a huge issue in the overal flattering fit of the final product, and it’s a very nice summer dress! I’m sure you’ll get a lot of use out of it, I’m eyeballing the pattern myself for a challis print I found in the stash just yesterday!
Thanks, Colleen! I agree, despite a few minor misgivings, I really like the pattern. It’s very easy to wear and I’m sure I’ll get a lot of use out of it!! It’s perfect in challis- can’t wait to see yours!