Recently, patterns from The Sewing Workshop have popped up on my radar. This company has been around a long time and has some funky and fun designs, but I haven’t seen a ton of their patterns sewn up (with the exception of Elaine’s Liberty shirt), nor did their pattern illustrations really catch my eye. It wasn’t until The Sewing Workshop recently shared photos of beautiful, modern samples on a variety of bodies that their patterns spoke to me…
In particular, the new San Diego pattern was calling my name. Originally (in 1999) just a jacket pattern, it was updated last year to include tunic and top variations, too. Since I’ve been leaning deep into art teacher chic territory with my style choices lately (see also Adeline, Blaire, Kim, etc.), I went for the tunic. Here is the Sewing Workshop’s description of the tunic: “loose-fitting tunic has faced overlapping front placket extending into deep front pleat, forward shoulders, angled hem and elbow-length sleeves with deep stitched hems.”
Check out the San Diego gallery here for further inspiration. I particularly love the black linen tunic on the Joan from Mad Men lookalike as well as the floral wallpaper tunic.
Size range: The San Diego pattern comes in sizes XS-XXL, up to a 46″ bust, 37″ waist, 47″ hip. While the size range for this particular pattern is not very extensive, some of the Sewing Workshop patterns are available up to a 5X. Have a look at their size charts here.
What size did you make? I cut a size L at the shoulders and bust, graded to an XL at the hip.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Pearish shaped. Bust: 42-43” (depending on the day!), Waist: 36”, Hip: 45.5”, Bra: 38D, Height: 5’7.5”,
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? No adjustments besides grading out a size at the hip.
What fabric did you use?
For my wearable muslin, I used this odd, gauzy, very loosely woven cotton that I stole from my mom’s stash.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The instructions were quite good; thorough, with plenty of diagrams. Everything went together easily for me, although I did make things difficult for myself by cutting out the tunic with the fabric right side down and pattern right side up, which switched the right and left fronts. As a result, things occasionally got confusing as the instructions are very specifically written for the other way around . My fabric didn’t help either since it frayed badly and didn’t have an obvious right or wrong side.
I was impressed with the attention to detail in the drafting like the little angled bits to ensure the seam and hem allowances true up (I’m sure there’s a name for it, but whatever it is, it’s great).
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
The fit is pretty great. I like that the shoulders and bust fit well so the tunic doesn’t swamp me. I think if you have a larger bust you might have to FBA because it could strain at the point where the pleat and collar join. I think I’m teetering on the edge of needing one.
I was also happy that I graded up at the hip. I considered skipping that, but I think the fit would have been off if I did, even if it technically was wide enough to wrap around my hips.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Definitely! I have one planned in striped linen. I think I’ll play with the stripe direction on the front bodice (check out my sketch below… I promise the real version will be much less garish than my crude drawing suggests!).
Next time I might consider stay stitching the angled hem to make sure it doesn’t stretch out. Mine is a bit wavy, although that may be because of my fabric choice, too.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
The collar and pleat is the most difficult part, but if you take it slow and ensure you’ve accurately marked all of the dots and notches, you’ll be fine. The instructions are quite thorough, so I didn’t find I needed to consult outside resources to sew this pattern.
Pattern Rating:
Size Range: 3
Instructions: 5
Construction Process: 5
Final Fit: 5
Overall Rating: 4.5
I think this is a great pattern, well-drafted with lots of interesting details and good instructions. The size range could be bigger, but otherwise I’m really happy with it! I think it’s cool and chic, as well as incredibly comfortable. I’ve already worn it three times since making it and foresee myself wearing it regularly. I’ll definitely make another one soon!
Lovely tunic! I really like the asymmetrical hem; it allows the tunic to be long, but not swampy. It looks like a really great top for spring and summer, especially in that bright and airy fabric. You also look much happier wearing it than the pattern cover drawing does…she doesn’t look happy at all. lol
Thanks! It’s quite airy and cool. Ha, I agree; the pattern illustration is not selling the pattern at all. She looks a bit ho-hum about it!
Oh I’m very familiar with Sewing Workshop Patterns-they are great, and easy to size up if only going up 1 size as you did….love your stripe idea….may have to try that….have a grey linen with white pin stripe….it’s calling my name…this maybe what it becomes!
Thanks for your review….love your blog and you too!
Laura
Thanks so much!! Grey linen with a white pinstripe would be perfect for this pattern!
I like The idea of a “wearable muslin”, -a new term to me. I don’t have time to make things I don’t plan to wear. Not to say I never make or buy something that I don’t ultimately wear much, of not at all.
Thanks for sharing. I really like the color and would have thought the reversing from right to left was a design decision, on your part, if you hadn’t explained your cutting error.
Thanks! I don’t like to make things I won’t wear, either, so for me, the wearable muslin is the way to go. I just choose a less expensive/less precious fabric for my test run.
LOVE this top – really love it! – but sadly I doubt I’ll ever consider buying the pattern.
Why?
Because, having looked at the measurement charts for The Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection, standard and plus size, there is *no information whatsoever* as to length. Any length. I know my height, and my CB length, and my preferred hem length for a range of different garments. I am perfectly sure that The Sewing Workshop knows full well the height for which their patterns are drafted, the CB length of their draft and the hem length of the garment in question.
Why is this information considered such a big secret by so many patternmakers, I wonder? Height and length is just as much a part of size and measurement as is circumference, and just as vital to a satisfactory result.
fat_lady – you will find the lengths listed here:
http://sewingworkshop.com/shop/all-products#!/San-Diego/p/74432246/category=9765080
Hope this helps. It’s a lovely top, as well as a tunic.
The finished hem length is nice to know, but without also knowing the height and CB nape-waist measurement for which their patterns are drafted – and this should be part of the main measurement/size chart – it’s of very little use to those of us whose height and/or vertical proportions are far from ‘average’ or standard.
Just as making a garment fit a circumferentially-larger (or smaller) person usually involves somewhat more than just letting it out at the side seams, so does making a garment fit a vertically-challenged or vertically-enhanced person usually involve more than just letting down or taking up at the hem. Knowing at least a couple of the vertical measurements *for which a pattern is drafted* is important for both short-arses like me, and long-shanks like my neighbour, if we wish to make garments that actually fit, rather than merely cover our bodies.
This is, unfortunately, a very common issue with Indie brands.
Hi fat_lady, there are fit issues with every brand of pattern including the big 4 and the Indie pattern brands. Each of us has figure variations and all of us here are striving for great fit and not just “covering our bodies”.
My worst fitting pattern experiences have been the vogue patterns. There is something terribly wrong with how they fit my body! I suspect my body is not that freakish!
I find that the Sewing Workshop patterns are short waisted for my body and I have to make that adjustment on all of her patterns. That being said I make that adjustment on most of the things I make as I am long waisted. The one thing I can say for this particular brand is that they are consistent with sizing. No surprises the next pattern you try.
I am sure that if you email the company they would be glad to tell you what height of woman they draft for and any other questions you might have. Customer service is very good.
More measurements are always helpful!
I am more than aware there are fit issues with every brand of pattern, That is the *actual reason* I consider a couple of vertical measurements to be just as essential a part of the size chart as are circumferential measurements.
Many companies clearly understand this, and provide one or two of the basic vertical measurements; some give the measurements for which they draft in considerable detail. So there are plenty to choose from and no need to buy a pattern which lacks this information if it is considered essential.
As Meg says below, more measurements are always helpful – and I, for one, need all the help I can get!
Lovely pattern and lovely tunic Meg! Her patterns really fit me well, but always better if I do a small FBA. Linda’s thing is well fitting through the shoulders and floating over the rest of the bumpy places. We got a chance to talk at Puyallup and she is very interested in the curvy sewing collective! Her daughter has just joined her in business and they are working towards more inclusiveness.
The pattern is just great and definitely has me curious to try more from the Sewing Workshop! I agree that a small FBA would be helpful for me next time.
That color is great for you! I sew Sewing Workshop Patterns regularly. I think you will find that the front placket will lie better if you do an FBA. They may look boxy on the pattern, but on my curvy shape (apple) they do not look boxy, they look chic! (As long as I exert discipline and do the FBA.) Meg, with those stripes an FBA will ensure that they don’t pull in odd directions. Also, some light interfacing on the diagonal edged hem (light weight fusible stay tape), really helps the top stitching look great. I sew these patterns with linens, cottons from India, & Japanese cottons as well as the occasional silk, and find that if anything, they tend to under-use interfacing. But I love them anyway.
I am definitely a Sewing Workshop pattern convert after sewing this one! I agree a small FBA will help for my next version. Interfacing or stay tape is a great idea for the hem! Thanks!
Cool! You always hunt down the greatest patterns. 🙂
I am a pattern addict!
I’ve made the shorter top but you’ve inspired me to make the tunic now. I love the color on you, as well as the styling.
Thanks so much! I bet the shorter version is really cute, too!
This looks GREAT!! I hope you wear it a lot. May just have to make one for myself. 🙂 LOVE!!
Thanks so much! I am really loving it!
I love this pattern! The color & gauzy fabric you chose are wonderful for this. 🙂 It seems like it will be a good choice for summer. Definitely interested in making the jacket in the pattern as well.
Thanks so much! Yep, perfect for hot weather! The versions of the jacket I’ve seen were really nice…
I have been obsessed with The Sewing Workshop Patterns for quite a few years now. I buy her patterns as soon as they come out. I love the angles and loose flowing style of most of her patterns. I purchased this pattern and have yet to make it up. Your pictures have given me some incentive to sew to my hearts content.
The Sewibg Workshop patterns are all really lovely- I can’t wait to make more! You should definitely try out this tunic!