Hello, readers! How are you enjoying Shirtmaking Month? I went ahead and sewed myself a new blouse, both to coincide with this theme month and to add to the separates in my wardrobe.
Pattern Name: Simplicity 8243
Size Range: 16-24
What size did you make? graded up to 26/28
What are your…..
Measurements: 48-41-52
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Height: 5’8
Bra size: 44D
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
Aside from re-sizing the pattern, my only other fitting adjustment was to enlarge the sleeve width, which is a pretty quick process for me as I do it with all of my woven patterns that have sleeves. I also added sleeve cuffs, which is a detail shown on the vintage pattern drawings, but isn’t included with the re-issue. That was pretty quick as well, as I had just sewn a dress with similar sleeves.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process was a breeze thanks to the easy to follow instructions. The collar is a bit different from any that I’ve sewn before with a facing that acts as an upper collar. Thankfully the diagrams and wording helps you comprehend it and have good results.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
I think this blouse fits me pretty well out of the envelope. It’s a little more slim-fitting than I thought it would be. This is sewn with a stretch cotton shirting, so the fabric definitely makes the blouse more comfortable. I like that it can be worn either tucked or un-tucked, although my preference would be to tuck it in.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Yes, I plan to make this blouse again. I would probably leave the pockets off next time. I would also add a little bit more ease to my sleeves. At first, I thought that the blouse should be a little longer, but it seems to work in the length that it’s in. I could probably use a bit of a swayback adjustment, but as I plan to wear this tucked in, that doesn’t really bother me. I may just add a little bit more room to the hip area with my next version. I’d also move the buttons closer to the edge instead of where the pattern suggests them to be.
The inside. I finished the seams with rayon seam binding.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
I would suggest to wait until later in the construction process to add the breast pockets, so you can make sure you like them, or just baste them in place. The sleeves also seem quite small, so make sure you check the fit if you might need a full bicep adjustment like me. If you want your blouse to look more like the pattern photo, you’ll need to add shoulder pads.
I used this method to enlarge the pattern and this tutorial for adding the full bicep adjustment.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size range: 4
Instructions: 5
Construction process: 5
Final fit: 4.5
Overall rating: 4.62
Overall, this is a great pattern and it works well for my fall/winter vintage inspired capsule wardrobe. I only have a few blouses and none of them are solid colored, so this one really fits a hole in my closet. I plan on making the trousers that came in the pattern as well, which I imagine will be a new adventure!
That is your color for sure. I love your blouse but the skirt is your masterpiece. The pleats are very flattering on you.
Wow, that is one stunningly beautiful blouse on you! That is a fantastic color for you too. The review made sense to me and it was easily understood.
Thank you!
Tanya, you have done a wonderful job on this blouse. It looks beautiful on you, and I love that you showed your finishing too! Great way to toot your horn. I’m encouraged to try this one now, although I will have to increase the size to a 30/32, or sort of a cross between that and a 26/28.
Thank you so much for sharing this!
This is a pattern I never would have looked at, but seeing how cute it is on you, I may just have to try it out. I especially love the collar. It provides such a pretty frame for your face!
I. Love. That. Skirt. It was the first thing I noticed. But it wasn’t till the last picture that I noticed the hem is fringed! You did a beautiful job on it, as you did on the blouse. You really have a knack for choosing shapes and fabrics that flatter you.
Thanks, Kay! The collar is what sold me on the pattern in the first place. 🙂 Yes, my skirt has a raw fringed hem. I recently finished it as well and will have it on my personal blog sometime soon.
This is a very flattering blouse in a gorgeous color. I’m impressed by the constructiond details and the extra time spent on pattern alterations has paid off-I love how well it fits you and hope you feel as beautiful as you look in this outfit.
Thanks, Karen! This color/fabric is really fabulous to work with and wear. I’m planning on going back and getting some more of it!
I’d love to see a different pose or two with your arms down. Just the one pose with arms on hips isn’t as useful for a review as it might be. Love the Cole and the details, I’m truly intrigued!
Beautifully constructed! This is a great blouse and looks lovely on you. I agree with you about leaving off the pockets next time. The collars is so gorgeous you don’t really need the additional detail. And this skirt is great with this blouse.
Thanks, Lisa! I look forward to sewing another version up. 🙂
Beautiful job on this! I am always so impressed when a sewist shows the insides of anything! Wooo, cool finishing in the facing.. Re the pockets, I notice the orig illustration just has one –maybe next time try that for a nice bit of whimsy?
Best,
Nancy N
Thanks, Nancy! I was going to add just one, but decided in the end to put the other, too. I’ll probably just leave both off next time.
i know why green is your fave color! i agree about the breast pockets, but they are always so handy for my credit card when i want to have it handy in advance and afterwards. i have to choose between shirt pockets and hip pockets and shirt pockets win every time. 🙂 i was noticing the bust dart coming out of the shoulder seam. how do you feel that worked out for you? was it as well-fitting as a side dart? would you use that method again?
Yeah, there’s a lot of green in the sewing queue! 🙂 You can’t really fit much in these pockets as they aren’t very functional. A bit too small. There are bust darts coming from the shoulders. The pockets obscure them, which is most of the reason why I decided to do both pockets. They seem okay for me, but I don’t have a large bust. Not sure how they would be on the more endowed.
Very elegant! Tanya, you have quite a knack for picking fabric. What is the skirt pattern? It’s perfect for a plaid.
Thank you, Mary! The skirt is actually not a pattern. It’s “self-drafted”, but modeled on a 1940’s skirt pattern that I have. I didn’t feel like grading up the pleated version of that pattern, so I made my own.
Great outfit! Those colors are gorgeous, can’t wait to hear what you have to say about the pants.
Thanks, Madeline! I hope the pants work out for me. I’m never sure until I see something like that on myself or another similar figure.
Beautiful blouse, Tanya! I love the color and bet, in that green, that it will fit in beautifully with many of your separates.
Thanks, Meg! I’m exploring more solid colors, especially for separates. My capsule wardrobe is coming along nicely!
The color is gorgeous. I love the way you finished the inside seams – I am inspired.
Thank you! It’s so nice to have garments look good inside and out. 🙂
Breast pockets are great sewing ‘eye’ candy but imo not for uber busty girls like myself. Having said that, the blouse is beautiful — love the color and collar (and the skirt too). Reminds me of my school days. You have such a great eye for what looks great on you.
Yeah, that’s mostly why I’ve been avoiding them, but then I’m thinking, “well, I’m not that busty, so go for it!”. Now, I don’t think they’re my fave, but I’m glad that I tried them out. 🙂
Forgot to ask: where did you find that skirt fabric? I love that!
Thanks! I got it at Britex in San Francisco a few years ago.
You look absolutely fabulous! Thanks so much for including a link to the full bicep alteration tutorial – it is MUCH easier to understand than the directions in my sewing alterations book.
Hooray for fearless sewing!
Thanks, Julie! Yes, T’s tutorial is spot on!
Pretty color and interesting collar! I, for one, find breast pockets annoying.
Thanks, L’Anne! I’ve never had a blouse with breast pockets, so I wanted to test them out to see how I’d like them. I’d go without next time!
That’s really cute!
Thank you, Jeanne!