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You are here: Home / Curvy Patterns / Pattern Reviews / Big 4 Pattern Reviews / Pattern Review: Simplicity 8096

Pattern Review: Simplicity 8096

October 25, 2016 by Tanya

csc-simplicity-week-500

Hello readers!  Welcome to our first post focused on Simplicity patterns during Curvy Simplicity Week!

Today, I’m sharing the dress I made using Simplicity 8096, in a green/white gingham print cotton lined with green silk/cotton voile.

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source

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Pattern Name:  Simplicity 8096

Size Range:  18W-32W

What size did you make?  26W/28W

What are your…..

Measurements: 48-41-52
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Height: 5’8
Bra size: 44D

*Note:  I received this pattern free of charge in return for a review on the CSC.

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What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?

I graded in between sizes, did a slight swayback adjustment to the back bodice and adjusted the princess seams on the bust.  I also adjusted the sleeves to fit.   I initially added length to the skirt, but had to go back and shorten it as I had forgotten to cut out the front skirt piece (duh).  Luckily, I had enough fabric to cut another piece, so my dress wasn’t ruined — just a shorter version than I had planned.  All of these adjustments were relatively quick and easy alterations.

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?

This dress goes together nicely and is a wonderful pattern to sew.  There are very good instructions on how to line the bodice, so if you’re a novice, you’ll be able to make this dress.  I generally would have lined the skirt, too, but I didn’t feel like my fabric needed it.  There is a piece of wide elastic on the back (you can see it on the photo below) that I imagine is there to add structure and help hold up the back of the bodice so it doesn’t gape.  The instructions — as with every Amazing Fit pattern I’ve sewn — are excellent.  They are a bit lengthy and might seem intimidating, but they give you a lot of fitting advice so you can achieve the fit that you’re looking for.

inside

How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?

I’ve made other dresses with similar styles and I like this one better than any of them.  I like the way this pattern fits as well as the lack of difficulty in adjusting the fit.  I prefer my bodices to be less fitted with more ease, so my version is not closely tailored.  I’m sure I could have achieved a better fit in the bodice if that was my priority over comfort and breathability.  I also love the pleating on the skirt, although I’m always unsure with styles like this if I’m supposed to iron the pleats all the way down to the hem.  I decided that it looked better ironed down, although when it’s worn,the pleating tends to move out of place.   I’m attracted to gathered skirts. but I can see how this style is more flattering to my body shape as it skims my hip/belly area without adding bulk.

Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?

I’m definitely going to make this pattern again!  I look forward to sewing view B next summer.

This pattern has cup sizes and I used a D (following my measurements and Simplicity’s instructions), but I think it might have worked out better for me in a C.  I had some extra fabric at the apex and adjusted the fit on the princess seams to fix it.  There also seems to be a bit of pooling on the front of the bodice near the waist, which I’m not sure if it is due to the wrong cup size.  It doesn’t bother me and I still love my dress, so that’s not a game changer to me, just something that I will attempt to fix in a future version.

The back of this pattern is rather low (as you can see from the photo of my back view) and I’m wearing my usual bra with this dress, so if I don’t want it to show, I’d need to wear a different bra.  I’d like to fix this the next time I sew this pattern up.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?

You might want to make a muslin of the bodice to get the fit right of this dress.  Otherwise, I think it’s quite wonderful that this dress is in plus sizes, as I didn’t have to do my regular pattern re-sizing and the pattern alterations were minimal.

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Pattern Rating (1-5):

Size range:  5
Instructions:  5
Construction process:  5
Final fit:  4
Overall rating:  4.75

Overall, I love this dress and look forward to making another!

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Filed Under: Big 4 Pattern Reviews, Curvy Handmade Fashion, Curvy Patterns, Curvy Simplicity Week, Pattern Reviews Tagged With: amazing fit patterns, curvy simplicity week, pattern review, plus size pattern, simplicity 8096, simplicity week

About Tanya

Tanya is a Northern California ranch girl in love with retro prints and vintage patterns with a bit of modern flair. When not battling with her cat over her sewing table, she likes to repurpose junk, throw frisbees for her dogs, immerse herself in history books and geek out over sci-fi and fantasy. You can find her at her other home on the web: Mrs. Hughes

« Announcing Curvy Simplicity Week at the CSC!
Pattern Review: Simplicity 2058 »

Comments

  1. Denise says

    November 1, 2016 at 8:56 pm

    Hello Tanya! Your reviews are always the first I read whenever I check my inbox. You’re a great stylist: the choice of fabric, the gold belt, the shoes. I love all your outfits! This dress is fantastic on you. Thanks for the great post.

  2. Diane says

    October 30, 2016 at 9:03 pm

    Stunning, Tanya. I so appreciate seeing Simplicity ‘Curvy’ patterns on real-life curves–Simplicity should put YOU on the envelope. You are ROCKIN’ it. Thanks for sharing this; it’s so encouraging.

  3. Katen says

    October 28, 2016 at 8:48 pm

    Wow! Just a perfect storm of a dress for you. Looks amazing.

  4. Debby says

    October 26, 2016 at 4:58 pm

    Very flattering style! Great job!

  5. Sandra says

    October 26, 2016 at 9:53 am

    You look gorgeous! I had not noticed this pattern before, but I really, really like it. It looks like it has great colour blocking potential, and capacity to made in many looks. I have visions of soft swishy maxi length fabric on the skirt and shoulders for evening wear. I love gingham, and fancy one like yours for daywear.

  6. Lisa says

    October 26, 2016 at 12:50 am

    Listen girlllllll….hear me loud and clear you make being overweight classy, beautiful, artistic and that is a wonderful look on you…

  7. Meg says

    October 25, 2016 at 10:00 pm

    Just beautiful, Tanya! Love the fit, the color, everything!

  8. Merry Pinbender says

    October 25, 2016 at 8:42 pm

    The first word that comes to mind is stunning! Absolutely stunning! It’s already been said ; right color, fabric, fit and gal!
    🙂 and oh, those gams! Don’t hide them with a lower hemline.

    Thanks as always,

    Merry

  9. Carol S says

    October 25, 2016 at 8:22 pm

    There’s an old couture trick that will work for keeping the back in place. Cover a pair of men’s collar stays with fabric or a piece of ribbon folded in half and stitch it very close the the to top edge of the dress where you want it to be held in place. When you wear the dress just tuck those stays underneath the back of your bra and it won’t show.

  10. Diane says

    October 25, 2016 at 6:49 pm

    I think this dress looks so flattering on you. The fabric is beautiful. As to your comments on pattern adjustments you’d like to do next time….I remember reading one time about being careful about not trying to reach ‘perfection’ in our fit. To me, your dress is perfect and I wouldn’t see any need to make adjustments. Now, I am fairly new to this so I it may be my inexperience talking…but when do we stop at making fine tuning to our patterns?

  11. Jill says

    October 25, 2016 at 4:44 pm

    Super cute and it looks great on you and the green checks were a smart choice. I have had great success with Simplicity’s Amazing Fit line so far but this isn’t a pattern I’ve tried yet. Your make looks so fun that I’m going to add this one to my list!

  12. Carol says

    October 25, 2016 at 4:26 pm

    The green color, bodice, length are very flattering to you. Whatever you have done to your back bodice length, it is working. You seem to have achieved an almost perfect. fit. The length is great too. I do not think that you should wait to make another.

  13. Karen says

    October 25, 2016 at 3:56 pm

    Wonderful job, Tanya. I don’t think you should mess with the cup size at all. The one you used fits very well. That little smidge of fabric under the bust can be shorten from the bust apex to the waist. It is such a small amount that I know I wouldn’t mess with it – and I’m a perfectionist when I do anything for myself. Oh, and the pleats? The stiffer the fabric the more they will fall open. That is fine. You look fantastic in this style and I would put it in my perfect fit pile and make it again and again.

  14. Jessica says

    October 25, 2016 at 2:09 pm

    WOW! This turned out so well Tanya! Very similar to Cambie, but I love the little details that help it fit better.

  15. Mary says

    October 25, 2016 at 1:54 pm

    Lovely dress, Tanya. However, you do not have swayback. You have a short back neck-to-waist length. If you had swayback, your adjustment would be below the waistline seam, not above it. I only point this out because when a new sewer looks up that term “swayback”, and she/he sees something completely different, it just confuses and discourages them when they try the adjustment and it doesn’t work. Swayback is a posture issue where “the top of the pelvis tilts forward, lifting the buttocks up and outward, and increasing depth through the body….. The distance from the waist to the upper curve of the buttocks decreases….” Information from Fitting & Pattern Alteration, A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting and Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty and Judith Rasband, as well as from other sources. You have very good posture, and your buttocks don’t seem to be lifted up and outward, they appear more flat.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:09 pm

      Thank you, Mary. Everything that I’ve read — including Fit for Real People — described my adjustment as such. However, whatever it’s called and the reason — the wedge I take out of the back of patterns works well for me.

  16. Michelle says

    October 25, 2016 at 1:20 pm

    This is GORGEOUS! I never even noticed this pattern before, but I think I need to own it now. It’s sort of like a Cambie, but I wouldn’t have to grade up and re-draft the whole thing to get it to fit! Between this pattern and some of the new vintage(-inspired) patterns from the latest collection, I’ll be eagerly awaiting the next Simplicity sale at JoAnn’s.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:11 pm

      Thanks, Michelle! It is quite similar to the Cambie, with a different skirt and back, but the same look. It also fits me better than the Cambie and with minimal adjustments, so that’s a win! I’d love to see this pattern on you!

  17. Andie W. says

    October 25, 2016 at 11:30 am

    I need to buy this pattern! You look just gorgeous in it!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:11 pm

      This would look so lovely on you, Andie!

  18. Emily says

    October 25, 2016 at 10:50 am

    Wow I love this view, looks so gorg on you as well!
    I’ve seen this pattern before but never noticed this option with the little sleeves. It reminds me of the Sewaholic Cambie – which i love, but refuse to buy a pattern i will need to grade up so much!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:13 pm

      Thanks, Emily! My main reason for wanting to sew this pattern was this view. I’ve sewn several Cambie’s now and prefer this pattern.

  19. Dee says

    October 25, 2016 at 10:46 am

    This pattern is VERY flattering! It would be great long, in a darker color, for a night at the theatre. Hunter velvet? It fits you beautifully!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:23 pm

      Thanks, Dee! I didn’t think about this pattern as an evening gown, but now I can picture it!

  20. susan says

    October 25, 2016 at 10:31 am

    You have style! Your have Flair! This dress is another example of YOU. The dress looks great on you. I love the pattern and fabric choice; it all works well.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:29 pm

      Thank you, Susan!

  21. PsychicSewerKathleen says

    October 25, 2016 at 10:25 am

    Your dress has definitely motivated me to check out Simplicity’s Amazing Fit – it exemplifies it’s name. Beautiful dress and suits you to a T!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:30 pm

      Thank you, Kathleen! You definitely try out an Amazing Fit pattern!

  22. Candy Maroney says

    October 25, 2016 at 9:58 am

    Great job! I love your reviews and to see your finished garments. Keep up the good work.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:32 pm

      Thank you, Candy!

  23. Abigail Doyle says

    October 25, 2016 at 9:44 am

    Tans, this came out fabulously! But you know green is one of your colours. The design is similar to Sewahlic Cambie too!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:34 pm

      Thanks, Abbey! Yes, I am always so attracted to green and there will be more to come. 🙂 The design is very similar to the Cambie, with a few differences, including that it fits me better!

  24. Linda M. Mundy says

    October 25, 2016 at 9:27 am

    Tanya, you look beautiful! As always, your technique is so professional and the choice of color and fabric are great. I think the length is perfect because your legs deserve to be shown off. Thank you for the review.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:37 pm

      Thanks, Linda! I was afraid the length was going to be short like a junior dress, but was thankful that it wasn’t!

  25. Susan says

    October 25, 2016 at 9:25 am

    Tanya, nice dress! I understand why you would prefer the back just a smidgen higher. To me, the hemline on this dress is perfectly placed. It is an attractive length that balances well and gives your legs a nice, attractive look.

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:39 pm

      Thank you, Susan! I’m glad the dress didn’t turn out too short, unfortunately, the back is a smidgen too low for me. I’m not sure how I didn’t notice it during the fitting process!

  26. Kate says

    October 25, 2016 at 8:21 am

    I love the fabric you’ve used. I bought this pattern because I wanted something similar to Sew Over It’s Rosie dress – but in my size. I’ve not seen many reviews for this one yet so thanks for sharing yours, Tanya!
    It looks great. You’ve given me the motivation to move it up my to-sew queue. 🙂

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:40 pm

      Thank you, Kate! It’s great that this pattern has an extensive size range. I look forward to sewing another next year.

  27. MaudieBrld says

    October 25, 2016 at 8:12 am

    Wow, Tanya, this looks absolutely lovely on you!

    • Tanya says

      October 25, 2016 at 2:40 pm

      Thanks, Maudie!

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