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You are here: Home / Curvy Patterns / Pattern Reviews / Big 4 Pattern Reviews / Pattern Review: Simplicity 1459

Pattern Review: Simplicity 1459

November 19, 2014 by Tanya

Ah, I do love a retro shirtwaist dress and this pattern fulfills that need.  It’s a simple, yet charming design that’s quite easy to put together and you end up with a lovely vintage inspired dress.

Cotton sateen

This pattern is Simplicity 1459, which is a 1950’s vintage shirt dress pattern.  It has three different sleeve lengths with a wide lapel collar and has options for a sheer overlay and a cummerbund or ribbon belt.  The skirt is gathered and there’s a zip on the side.

[source: Pattern Review]

I’ve made this dress twice now.  The first one was the aqua/cream/brown floral that I made in silk/cotton twill sateen.  That dress is a lighter weight fabric with a beautiful drape.  The second is my navy/white stripe stretch cotton sateen dress which is a heavier, crisper fabric with a bit of stiffness that makes the skirt fuller.  I used vintage covered button kits for each of these dresses and left them unlined with facings as the pattern dictates.  The floral dress has a serged finish whereas I used my pinking shears on the striped version.  I made a ribbon belt for the floral dress as the pattern suggests, but went with a self fabric belt for the striped one.  I prefer the fabric belt to the ribbon one and highly suggest going that route rather than making one out of ribbon.  My versions of this pattern desperately need a belt as there would be gaping on the button placket where the bodice meets the skirt if there wasn’t one.  If you want to go beltless, I’d suggest adding an extra button .

Silk/cotton twill sateen

Pattern name:  Simplicity 1459
Sizing: 16-24
What size did you make?  This dress is graded up to about a 26/28
What are your measurements and body shape?  48-41-52 and I have a pear-ish shape.  I used this method when I graded up.
What adjustments did you make, and how long did they take?  Other than enlarging the pattern, I didn’t make any adjustments.  This dress is basically straight out of the envelope for me.
What did you like?  My favorite aspects of this dress are the collar and the full skirt.  The bodice on this dress goes down far enough on me that the skirt hits at the right spot so that you don’t get that “pregnant” look that can often happen with gathered skirts.  This dress is a great piece to sew, it’s well drafted and the instructions are easy to follow.
What will you change next time?  I will probably make this again and sew up a version with sleeves.  Sylvie made a beautiful sleeved version of this dress and I think a 3/4 sleeve dress will be a great fall/winter staple.  Adding sleeves also eliminates the armhole facings which I abhor.  I dislike facings myself, but opt to leave them on this dress as it’s more appropriate for this retro style.  This pattern can be made in so many fabrics and I’m thinking of a chambray or wool crepe for my next one.
What advice do you have for curvy sewists?  Well, for me I don’t have many adjustments.  I like a little more ease in my bodices than others might, so you could probably go down a size if you like it more fitted.  If you want a self fabric belt and have never made one before, the pattern piece for the ribbon belt will work just fine for making a fabric one.  Just double your fabric, cut out interfacing (or use belting), sew right sides together, turn, iron and topstitch.  Then sew on your buckle, punch prong holes and sew eyelets.  If anyone is unsure of this process, just ask me and I will make a tutorial.  One of the most useful things I’ve ever learned is how to make a belt!
Curvy rating (1 – 5) ?  4 — only because this pattern does not have a broad size range.
striped shirtwaist 4
For further info/photos:
  • Floral shirtwaist
  • Striped shirtwaist

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Filed Under: Big 4 Pattern Reviews, Curvy Patterns, Retro Style Tagged With: 1950s shirtwaist dress, pattern review, plus size retro sewing, simplicity 1459

About Tanya

Tanya is a Northern California ranch girl in love with retro prints and vintage patterns with a bit of modern flair. When not battling with her cat over her sewing table, she likes to repurpose junk, throw frisbees for her dogs, immerse herself in history books and geek out over sci-fi and fantasy. You can find her at her other home on the web: Mrs. Hughes

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Comments

  1. Maegen Karen Foster says

    January 4, 2015 at 11:23 pm

    Super cute! I found your review because I’m making myself this dress for a wedding in March. I love the two you made, they are adorable!

  2. Lisa says

    November 24, 2014 at 11:15 am

    Over the weekend I worked on the bodice of this and I’m surprised at how easy it ended up being. I still have the armholes and side seams to finish but I figured out the facings and have now made my first collar and first ever bodice with facings instead of a full lining! So glad you posted this review and inspired me to make mine!

  3. Lisa says

    November 22, 2014 at 7:23 am

    Argh! After reading your post I was inspired to bring out my copy of this pattern and got stuck into it but the instructions don’t explain what to do with the front bodice and the buttons. Any tips?

    • Tanya says

      November 22, 2014 at 1:52 pm

      Hi Lisa! What problems did you have? I just did my buttonholes on the right side, matched up the bodice sides, sewed the buttons on and then basted the bottom to keep it together before sewing the bodice to the skirt. I didn’t follow the pattern instructions for button placement, just figured out where I wanted them to go and spaced them out with my ruler. I hope that helps? If you have any other questions, feel free to email me: tanya@tanyamaile.com

      • Lisa says

        November 22, 2014 at 3:02 pm

        Ha…. uh oh! Giving me your email was a bad idea! Your inbox will probably be full of me asking stupid questions!
        I guess I don’t really have any problems as such, I just panicked because it wasn’t mentioned in the pattern instructions and I’ve never made anything with buttons. And I was a bit dumb and cut the back in half as if to add a zip. Derp. Oh well… easy fix! Damn you for making such pretty dresses and motivating me to actually start mine!

        • Lisa says

          November 22, 2014 at 3:10 pm

          Oh! I do have one question though! Do I sew the shoulders together before or after sewing the facing? It looks like I join them before but I feel like that makes things awkward.

  4. Ronda Bowen says

    November 21, 2014 at 9:22 am

    Tanya, I would LOVE a belt tutorial! My belt collection is sad (I have all of 4), and I think that it would be fun to make some that match the dresses and shirts I make – and some just all on their own with leftover fabric lengths!

  5. Sabrina says

    November 20, 2014 at 8:10 pm

    Gosh you really have inspired me to make some dresses! I so hope to get a few stitched over the Thanksgiving weekend. I love them all!

  6. Barbara says

    November 20, 2014 at 10:28 am

    What lovely dresses! You look beautiful!

  7. Beth says

    November 20, 2014 at 12:54 am

    Thank you, Tanya!
    i have always dreamed of having a shirt waist dress of the 50’s. I had no idea that the pattern companies were making patterns that could make my dreams come true! Thank you for reviewing it. I think both of your dresses look terrific on you! I am just now learning to sew and have done no garment sewing yet, but you all keep me motivated and so hopefully, one day, I’ll attempt this dress. I wish you guys could get some sewing retreats started, because if it was y’all as teachers, I would want to go!!

    Beth

  8. Sylvie says

    November 19, 2014 at 2:37 pm

    Thanks for the mention! I would personally love a tutorial for a belt! Seems simple enough but my brain cannot process. 🙂

  9. Lisa says

    November 19, 2014 at 2:15 pm

    Ooer! I have had this pattern in my stash for a couple months now but have been putting it off as collars terrify me. My last attempt to make a collar (peter pan style) didn’t end well at all. Its good to see you didn’t have to alter it much as our measurements are very similar. I plan to do the bodice in a navy broadcloth with a Michael miller nautical print for the skirt.

  10. Linda Rees says

    November 19, 2014 at 2:04 pm

    Lovely! The last one looks so crisp and clean and cute on you. I also live the first one as the fabric is lovely and it really suits you.

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 2:10 pm

      Thank you, Linda! The striped one is my favorite of the two. 🙂

  11. Kelly says

    November 19, 2014 at 1:25 pm

    Lovely! Exceptional work!

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 2:11 pm

      Thanks, Kelly!

  12. Caren says

    November 19, 2014 at 12:05 pm

    I think it looks adorable on you! I also love the dawggie! You seem to be a super fast sewer too, as quickly as you post stuff! I’d love to see your studio space. Great job & I hope you stay covered in threads

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 2:14 pm

      Thank you, Caren! I actually am not a fast sewer, although patterns that I’ve made before are quicker for me to sew than others. I probably have more time to sew than others though as I sew most afternoons. Here’s a post from last year of my sewing room. it looks pretty much the same although a bit messier. 🙂 http://tanyamaile.com/2013/08/01/journey-into-my-sewing-room-part-1/

      • Caren says

        November 19, 2014 at 11:01 pm

        Love it! Wish I could have a sewing kitty but I’m allergic 🙁 so love on that cat for me? I’d love to see your vintage machine collection too if you’d ever care to show them off. I’m a collector. I didn’t try to, they just find me & I have to bring them home.

  13. gMarie says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:58 am

    Tanya – I love this dress! I bought the pattern yonks ago, but you have pushed me into ‘putting it higher’ in the queue. Between you and the email I just got for ‘sparkly’ fabrics – this might make a fantastic holiday dress in a sparkly plaid.

    I just adore your versions. They are lovely and you look great!

    g

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 2:14 pm

      Thank you!!! I think this would be PERFECT for a holiday dress! I do really hope you make one as I can’t wait to see it!!!

  14. ruby baker says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:41 am

    Thanks Tanya,
    Love both versions but especially the stripes, may have to have this pattern but will have to put sleeves in, getting cold here in the UK now!

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 2:17 pm

      Thanks, Ruby! It actually isn’t all that warm here either (50F/10C when I took those photos), which is why I made a cardi to go with this dress. I do think a sleeved version is in my future!

  15. Johanna says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:39 am

    What a beautifull dress. It looks very nice!
    Green from Holland

    • Johanna says

      November 19, 2014 at 11:40 am

      Green must be greetings

  16. Elna says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:24 am

    You look so darn cute!

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 11:24 am

      Awe, thanks, Elna! 🙂

  17. Miss J says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:21 am

    Lovely!
    Don’t Simplicity make your size? If not, they should, and if your grading skills are this good, you wanna be drafting your own patterns girl!

    Your fabric choices are great
    Thanks for the post,
    J

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 11:24 am

      Thanks, J! Simplicity does go to my size in some patterns, but not all. I don’t think that any of the retro ones go that far into the plus range. I think I’ll leave the pattern drafting to the experts — you can pretty much find a pattern for anything you want to make. 🙂

  18. Anne says

    November 19, 2014 at 11:17 am

    These are both lovely.

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 11:22 am

      Thank you, Anne! 🙂

  19. Jandy says

    November 19, 2014 at 10:57 am

    I love it, great look! Especially the satin print one. I was hoping my daughter would buy this pattern for me. Excuse me while I go and throw down some heavy hints to the 24 Y O….

    • Tanya says

      November 19, 2014 at 11:22 am

      Thanks, Jandy! Sounds like a good Christmas gift! 🙂

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