Pattern Review: Seamwork Chip Jacket

I don’t know about you, but I am always on the lookout for casual curvy-friendly top layers. I wear a ton of cardigans, and I’ve found that that I really love wearing knit blazers to the office, as they offer a bit more structure than a cardigan AND the comfort of a knit.  Given those preferences, I was very intrigued when Seamwork Magazine released their Chip Moto Jacket pattern a few months ago–it’s a stripped-down take on a moto jacket, but designed for stable knits!  I feel like this is an overlooked gem of a pattern, so I wanted to share my versions and thought here.

Pattern Name and Description

Seamwork Chip Jacket

Pattern Description from the Seamwork website:

“The Chip jacket features the iconic style of a moto jacket with a knitwear twist. With a relaxed fit throughout, collar, and zipper closure, this jacket is the perfect layer to add to your fall wardrobe.

Size Range (with measurements):

The Chip pattern is available in Seamwork’s current size range, up to a 54″ (137 cm) bust measurement:

What size did you make?

I made a straight size 18, which is the first size in Seamwork’s curvy block . The curvy block drafts for a DD-cup size.

What are your measurements, height, and body type? (If reviewing a top or dress, bra size is very helpful for our readers.)

My current measurements are as follows:

High bust: 42″ (106.7 cm)
Full bust: 46.5″ (124.5 cm)
Waist: 42.5″ (108 cm)
Hip: 46″ (118 cm)
Height: 5’2″ (157.5 cm)
Bra Size: 40D/DD

My body type is somewhere between a busty hourglass and busty rectangle from the front, but more of a busty apple from the side.

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?

Based on the final garment measurements, I elected to not make any adjustments, and I sewed this jacket straight off of the size 18 PDF.

What fabric did you use?

I used a wool ponte that I’d had in my stash for several years. I originally purchased my fabric from Fabric Mart’s online store.

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?

The construction process was smooth.  Since the jacket front itself is asymmetrical, you’ll need to pay pretty close attention as you construct the jacket front and insert the zipper, but I didn’t find any errors in the instructions and drafting.  Just pay attention, don’t get careless, and you’ll be fine!

How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?

I like the fit–it’s nice to have a garment fit true-to-size from the size chart. The cropped length is fun, but it probably works better with a dress than with the jeans and sweater that I wore for these photos.

Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?

For a moto jacket, the Chip was a fairly quick sew.  I’d love to make more in different colors. I will probably add length and add pockets in future versions.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?

The Chip is a fun, fairly unique pattern with inclusive/curve-friendly sizing. If you’re tall or just want a longer jacket, definitely consider adding some length to your pattern pieces. Outside of that, just pay attention to the instructions and don’t mix up your right/left pieces, and have fun!

Overall pattern rating

Size Range (1-5): = 4  — Seamwork’s size range rates a 4 out of 5, based on the CSC standardized size inclusivity scale.

Instructions (1-5): 4.5 — I thought that the instructions were clear, clearly illustrated, and did a good job of explaining the asymmetrical front/zipper insertion. There are some extraneous instructions around finishing seams, which aren’t really necessary, since the pattern is drafted for a stable knit.

Construction Process (1-5): 5 — I did not run into any construction or pattern drafting issues.

Final Fit (1-5): 4 — I am quite happy with the final fit, although it is *very* cropped.  (The pattern page does note that the sample had length added to it.)

Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation: 4.5 — Average score of all scores.