Hi Readers!
Here’s something a little different today — a historical costume! For this post, I’m reviewing the historical version of the Scroop Fantail Skirt, a gored a-line skirt accurate from 1890-1910. I made mine with rayon bengaline for a Victorian Halloween Tea, but plan on wearing it in the future for other events as it’s a good basic skirt.
Source: Scroop Patterns
Pattern Name: Scroop Fantail Historical Skirt #1701H
Size Range: 30 – 50 (waist 24″ – 44″)
What size did you make? 46/48
What are your…..
Measurements: 48-41-52
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Height: 5’8
Bra size: 44D
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I added about 2″ to the length of the skirt, which was pretty straightforward and easy. I also did not purchase the full amount of fabric (a yard less than suggested) and instead pieced the corners of the gored skirt. This process took a little bit longer, but I didn’t have to use as much fabric.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process went quickly and the instructions were easy to understand. There are two sets of directions — one basic and streamlined and one with a full explanation of the sewing process. The only problem I had was with the back pleats and I had a little confusion there. Mine don’t look as neat as the sample and I’ve seen other versions of this skirt with the pleats going in the opposite direction. I’m not sure if I got them wrong or if it’s my fabric or pressing that make them look a bit different from the sample skirts.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
I think it fits very well. The pattern is well drafted and period correct. I do think that I might need to let my waistband out a little as I have some pulling on the two front side gores. The waistband barely closes on my dressform, but fits me better with my corset on. Or maybe I’ll just tighten my corset some more. 🙂
I think the design works well for me and my shape and the exact kind of look that I was trying to achieve.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I’m most definitely planning on making this pattern again. I’m planning both a wool one for winter and a linen one for summer. I think I will go up a half size on the waistband grading out to the hip. Other than getting those back pleats down, that would be only change.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
The full instructions are very helpful for sewing this skirt. I didn’t use any additional resources for sewing it and with the one issue I had with the back pleats, I’m sure that I could have asked Leimomi (the designer behind Scroop Patterns) and she would have helped me.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size range: 4.5
Instructions: 5
Construction process: 5
Final fit: 4.75
Overall rating: 4.81
Overall, this is a great pattern that I plan to make multiples of. It’s a good pattern for those like me who are starting to build their costuming wardrobe. There is also a shortened modern version for everyday wear, although, if you like long skirts, you could wear a skirt out of this pattern everyday as well.
There is more info and photos about this skirt and my outfit on my blog, Mrs. Hughes.
i love this. You look like an extremely unrepentent widow! 😉
I LOVE having Leimomi teach in my shop as I get to see so man fabulous women make up her patterns, This skirt is a winner on every shape, as are all her patterns. She does such a great job and I think a lot of it is testing the on such a wide range of shapes, experience levels in person and getting feedback.
I have a very curvy behind, and I use a fan tail skirt with almost all of my skirts. Even with a gathered skirt, I add extra to the area above my backside. I have found that when sitting at church, or when I go out to dinner making my skirts like this gives me more coverage. Even with an A-line skirt, I put a fan tail in the back.
I have this pattern waiting and now I’m even more excited to make it! It looks great.
Very nice work! I think your pleats look very neat and well done, and I wouldn’t change the direction personally. It does look as if the sample might have more fabric pleated into them… or perhaps it doesn’t have the same waist to hip ratio that a corset gives you, so they’re falling straighter down. And it’s a softer fabric so maybe that contributes?
Also, your hair is perfect! That’s one detail that just makes the look in period costuming and you hit that nail on the head (intentional bad pun)!
Outstanding – I make a lot of historical clothes – this is wonderful and the choice of fabric to pattern is incredibly well matched. Well done, regards Chris
that is an awesome outfit! thanks for sharing
Oh, I’m LOVING an historical pattern review in here. Gorgeous! Well made; I love this and you look outta sight.