Bra-making: It’s so rewarding when it works, and so frustrating when it doesn’t!
I started bra-making last summer by taking a weekend class with the Fairy Bra Mother, and since then I’ve made around 15+ bras… most of which have now been tossed in the trash for size, fit or comfort issues. So you can imagine that I was excited when Orange Lingerie announced her very popular Marlborough Bra was being released in larger sizes! Could this be my dream bra pattern? Norma kindly sent over a few copies to the Curvy Sewing Collective for review, so I jumped at the chance to sew it up.
Choosing a size is the hardest part of using any new pattern. This pattern suggests adding 4 or 5″ to your underbust, and choosing a cup based on the difference between your full and over bust. My measurements (35″ underbust, 42″ full bust, 40″ high bust) put me in a 40B, according to the size chart. Friends, I usually wear a 36F/G! No way was a 40″ band or a B cup going to work. I emailed with Norma, and she suggested I start with my RTW size.
On her blog, Norma suggests two ways to muslin a bra: a single cup with wire, and full test bra. I did both: first a mock up of one 36DDD cup in sturdy duoplex, which compared to my favourite bras showed that I needed to reduce the upper cup. I made some tweaks, and then I made my big mistake: I sewed up my full muslin in a stretchier fabric. (In my defense, I’ve used that fabric successfully for several bras, and I thought it was more comparable than it turned out to be!) That muslin fit beautifully! I bought more supplies, and merrily sewed up a “good” bra, which you see below…
… and it was disastrously too small. Not even close to wearable. $35 of materials down the drain, not to mention a whole day of sewing!
Now, I know this is my fault. I used the wrong fabric in my muslin, and I paid for it. But here is what confuses me – my initial test cup was in the same super-sturdy duoplex as this final version! I guess it’s proof of how much a tight band can affect the size of your boobs. Remember this, friends!
Incidentally, I did mess with the pattern a bit by using a stable fabric for the upper cup instead of lace stabilised by sheer cup lining… again, I misinterpreted how stable duoplex is compared to sheer cup lining, which I think of as very stable but apparently allows more stretch than this!
Time to cut the straps and hooks off, chuck the rest, and start again!
This time I went up a band size and a cup size – so, two cup sizes bigger, in effect. Now I was sewing a 38G – a far cry from the 40B the size chart suggested! I basted everything together so I wouldn’t waste more materials. And, happily, with just a few tweaks in the upper cup for my larger and smaller side, it fits!
On me, it is still a shallow and minimizing shape. The cups fit my bust, but don’t offer much forward thrust. I wore it once or twice, but haven’t been reaching for it often. Based on my experience, I’d say this pattern fits best if you have balanced fullness in top and bottom, and somewhat wide-set boobs. If you are narrow and projected, you may have more fitting work to do. It’s worth noting that the drafting of this size range is differently shaped than the original size range, but I’m not exactly sure how!
Pattern name: Marlborough Bra by Orange Lingerie
Size range (with measurements): DDD to J cups, band size 30″ to 40″. The cup size range is good, but the band size range seems very limited to me, especially with the sizing suggesting that you sew a band 4-5″ larger than your actual measurements. I’m almost the largest band size, and that’s not going to cut it for larger women. On the other hand, you can use sister sizing and band adjustments to get some “hidden” sizes from the pattern – more info here!
What size did you make? 38G, which is one band size smaller and 4 cup sizes larger than the pattern recommended.
What are your measurements? 35″ underbust, 42″ full bust, 40″ high bust
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? Let me see… I made a single-cup muslin, a full muslin, a bra that didn’t fit, and a bra that fits ok. Total time required was about 15 hours.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? Good instructions that should be fairly clear for even a beginner.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape? On me, it’s a flattening/minimizing shape, and that’s not what I look for in a bra. The only other person I know who has sewn it swears it’s not that way on her!
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? Honestly? No. I won’t make it again. I’ve already got my custom-drafted bra pattern (that I wrote about here in Lingerie Month) so I won’t keep working with this one. however, I’ve got high hopes that the Orange Lingerie Boylston Bra (released now in larger sizes) might be more my style!
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Go into bra-making with a realistic mindset. It’s not fast, it’s often frustrating, you’ll waste expensive supplies, and every little change in fabric will totally throw off your fit. Be prepared for the long haul, and then you’ll hopefully end up with some great bras! Although I find sewing bras frustrating at times, I wouldn’t go back to buying RTW ones!
Overall, I think it’s a well-drafted pattern with good instructions, and I’d recommend it. Be wary of the sizing though. I appreciated being able to email and chat on social media with the designer about fit and sizing – that’s the greatest benefit to sewing indie patterns!
p.s. I know it would be nice to see pictures of these bras on me, but I’m a public school teacher, so that isn’t going to happen. If you sew one yourself, you are welcome to share your pics in the CSC private Flickr group or Facebook group!
Gillian, your review couldn’t have come at a better time! I had been anxiously awaiting the extended pattern release and then I got sidetracked. ( there’s a reason I inherited mom’s “God has my life confused with a soap opera!” Pot holder! ) I’m constantly urged to write a book. Nothings funnier than real life. 🙂
I thought the Marlborough would be a good starting point. If not for you I probably would have been very frustrated. This last year ( whoops, or two-ish ) I have morphed into a RTW 32 E/F. Like you if I had followed sizing recommendations I would have been two sizes up in a band. No matter what my weight has been, even seventy pounds heavier that size band would loosen too much and too soon. The girls are apparently related to lead. 🙂
So thanks for ALL the information. I will do my best to learn from your missteps and NOT make too many of my own.
Oh, and a belated thank you for the many other well written articles and reviews.
Merry
I have never sewn a bra, and your review has gotten my curiosity running! I have such a hard time getting a RTW to fit me correctly. Your fit problems sound really familiar, I’m sorry to say, lol. I have sewn everything and anything, it seams, so now I have a new challenge. Thanks, ( I think).
I was sizing up for a bra yesterday and looking at the chart on ‘Booby Traps’ here in Australia and have to say I’m completely bamboozled so you’re not alone Gillian! Luckily I had used the Maya successfully for my daughter’s dress recently so I traced out the pattern for the cup and took measurements. A kid who is a 32F RTW required a 20D underwire – WTF? That isn’t even sister sizing. I’ve ordered 2 kits from them but have little faith the bras will fit. I think measuring above bust for a band size would logically lead to problems. I do a lot of exercise and my lats are pretty defined. My above bust (underarm) size is much bigger than my actual band size. Its a minefield!
Wire size is so hard to predict! I did actually size up a wire size for the marlborough, but the pattern would have suggested I needed at least 2 sizes bigger… so confusing. I hope you have good luck with your bra kits!
Thankyou for the honest review. Sounds like the sizing info is a bit off.
I think the sizing is more or less accurate if you ignore the suggested fit and go with your RTW size… but that takes knowledge about what your RTW size really is, and not everyone knows that!
Thankyou for the honest review. Sounds like the sizing info is bit off.
Thanks for the review Gillian, very useful info! I’ve cut out the expanded size Marlborough for myself, but have yet to sew it up and fit it. It sounds like we wear a similar size (34F/G, narrow and projected here) and the sizing stymied me too! I often find that bra patterns in general push my breasts outward (even though I narrow the bridge to fit my closely set breasts) and then they’re in my way when I try to use my arms :O! Anyone else deal with that dilemma? Tips?
I always use a double layer of power net for the band, but I’ll be following Pam’s lead and try a double layered powerbar as well. I also want to try an internal sling or collar soon too and see if that eliminates the outward push.
I really love making bras and often default to making them for my easy to fit (perfect 34B) niece. Both the Marlborough and Boylston fit her well with no alterations. Sometimes I just want to make pretty undies and not worry about trying to fit myself.
Please let me know how the fit works for you! I’m sure I could have made it work with some fiddling, but by v3 I was done with the pattern. I’m generally on the wide side, which makes it even more odd that this is not good for me!
I love making bras! I find fitting a bra much less intimidating than say, fitting pants. I have made many bras for my large-busted daughter. I use a double layer of duoplex for the power bar. I also use two layers of power net for the band. I use elmer’s glue stick to adhere the two layers together. The double layer gives her a much better forward shape and more support.
I usually do a double layer for the power bar too! Your daughter is lucky you sew for her!
Gillian, It seams some of the main bra and corset makers are in Canada. Do you know of any in the US? I love that you were able to get a specially drafted pattern with Erin and wish there were something closer to home. I’m in Louisiana, so it’s about as far south as you can get. Thanks so much. Ramona
I wish I could help! I mostly just feel lucky to have so many great options here in Ontario. But surely there are custommakers everywhere? Maybe some corset makers who could help you out?
Ramona, there are some Beverly trained custom bra makers in the US, I bet if you contacted Beverly she would tell you who is closet to you and whether they would be able/willing make you a custom pattern. Also, if you’re interested in learning how to fit, there will be a US (Beverly taught) week long bra fitting class in Salt Lake City the first week of May. Info for the class is here: http://www.sweetcupsbrasupply.com/boob-camp-2017/ I attended last year’s Boob Camp (which focused on making bras) in SLC (because SLC is much closer to California than Ontario!) and learned a ton. I’ll be going back for the fitting session this year.
I know the joys and frustrations of sewing bras. Both of your bras look lovely. Thanks for an honest review of the pattern. I’m definitely not looking for anything shallower either.
I”m still looking for the perfect “boobs on a plate” bra pattern… I was hoping Boylston would give me that look, but since this pattern didn’t work for me, I’m relectant to sink more money and time into another pattern in the line!
Gillian your persistence really shines through this post 🙂 I couldn’t imagine making my own bra. The fit challenge is beyond my grade. At this point I’m thrilled when I get a tunic or Tee right 🙂
Thanks hon! The sewing itself really isn’t hard – it’s just pushing past that disappointment when you spend HOURS on something that doesn’t fit! Believe me, tees and tunics are definitely my favourite to sew! 🙂
I think making a bra is like learning a new skill, even if you have been years sewing! You need to use new fabrics and materials, buy lots of notions. The fitting is the worst (as you know). I’ll stick to tops, pants and dresses!
The sewing itself really is easy… and once you have apattern that fits, it’s worth it. But ughhh, the struggle to get there! 😛