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You are here: Home / Curvy Patterns / Pattern Reviews / Big 4 Pattern Reviews / Pattern Review: McCall’s 7357

Pattern Review: McCall’s 7357

April 1, 2016 by Mary Danielson Perry

McCalls 7357 -- Idle Fancy -- Liberty of London Lawn -10

Good morning, lovelies! Today, I’m here with the latest development in my quest to sew all the flowy blouses. This particular blouse is McCall’s 7357, one of my favorite patterns from their recent spring release. It’s a princess-seamed tunic top with multiple hem options, a three piece sleeve, and a banded, yoked neckline.

When this pattern released, I actually squealed out loud, y’all. I’m always looking out for new tunic patterns, especially ones with interesting design features and bust-friendly style lines. With the opportunity to mix fabrics, the boho 70’s feeling of the design, and multiple cup sizes included with this pattern, M7357 fit that bill perfectly.

Let’s go over how it turned out, shall we?

2016-03-31

Pattern Name: McCall’s 7357

Size Range: Up to 22 D-Cup (46-37-46)

Pattern Description: “Loose-fitting, pullover tops have neck band, self-lined yokes, applied tab, side-front and side-back seams, three-piece sleeves, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. A: Short sleeves and contrast panels. A, B: Stitched hem on sleeves. B: Three-quarter length sleeves, and front sleeve and side slits. C: Purchased trim. C, D: Long sleeves gathered into binding. All views include separate pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes.”

McCalls 7357 -- Idle Fancy -- Liberty of London Lawn -12

For my first iteration of this pattern, I was utterly drawn in by the curved, split hem and split bell sleeves of View B. It’s exactly the loose, swingy sort of top I love pairing with skinny jeans. The pattern calls for lightweight fabrics with a bit of body, so I snagged a length of Liberty of London Tana Lawn from my stash. It’s a dizzy shoe print in shades of pink, cream, and tan on a dark brown background. While I love the print, it’s also one of the least “Mary” fabrics in my stash, so finally matching it to a pattern was a godsend. On the yoke and neckline, gray chambray was chosen to ground that chaotic print a bit.

Based on my measurements (46-36-48), I opted for a size 22 D-Cup. To test out those multiple cup sizes, I didn’t make any bust alterations whatsoever, which is decidedly out of the norm for me. However, I did go ahead and narrow the shoulders and make a very small full bicep adjustment to the sleeves. After tracing out the bodice pieces, my skepticism ran high–the cup sized pieces were only for the side bodice panels, not the center front. This means that the larger your cup size, the more you’re easing those pieces together. When making my own FBA for princess seams, I always lengthen the center front panel to make up for this change in the side. Side eye was being cast in a major way, at this point.

McCalls 7357 -- Idle Fancy -- Liberty of London Lawn -30

Honestly, though, such doubt was needless. There’s more than enough length in that front panel to ease the princess seams together. It takes a bit of patience and I recommend trimming to a smaller seam allowance, but my princess seams are still gloriously wrinkle-free. Apart from this harrowing bit of easing, construction was a cinch. The yoke, neckband, and back yoke are all faced for a really clean finish on the inside. Proper marking of pattern pieces is a must on the neckband, since it doesn’t necessarily go together as you would expect, but with that and proper understitching, it turned beautifully.

I added some extra labor in, choosing to do top-stitched seams throughout the shirt. When doing seam splits, like those of the hem and sleeves in this shirt, I love finishing seams in this way. They lend extra stability to the opened seams and have a super tidy finish. If this is your first time sewing split seams or a more involved blouse, the instructions from McCall’s are really clear and helpful, with some great diagrams for beginners.

McCalls 7357 -- Idle Fancy -- Liberty of London Lawn -8

In the end, this blouse was a winner, fit-wise. It’s flowy, yes, but the princess seams give it a great shape. My waist isn’t lost in the design, but it floats around my hips in exactly the way I prefer. For the bustier among us, a camisole or tank top is a must with this design. Even in the McCall’s pattern photos, their model wears a cami underneath, because that neckline plunge is low. I don’t mind the additional layer underneath and like the subtle sex appeal such a neckline provides. Admittedly, a shirt covered in brown shoes isn’t classically sexy, but this is a wearable muslin anyway.

Personally, I love how this blouse turned out! The shape works for me, the length is spot on, and I adore those billowing sleeves. If I ignore all the shoes on the print, it feels a bit Steve Nicks to wear. Maybe that’s why I’m planning another version in black rayon crepe?

Pattern Rating:(1 is the lowest score, 5 the highest)

Size Range: 3.5 — I love the cup sizes on this pattern, but wish the pattern didn’t stop at a 22.  That’s somewhere around a 16/18 in ready-to-wear, which isn’t as inclusive as other McCall’s patterns out there. 
Instructions: 5 — Admittedly, I wasn’t following these closely, but they seemed absolutely on point for such an easy blouse as this one. There are plenty of markings to guide you and clear diagrams for the more finicky parts of construction. 
Construction Process: 5 — Easy as pie! Pay attention to your markings and you’ll be fine. There’s nothing overly difficult here, which makes for a very beginner-friendly pattern. 
Final Fit: 4 — I love the fit of my final blouse, but had to narrow the shoulders quite a bit to get here. While multiple cup sizes are always welcome on patterns, I wish shoulders would be narrowed to a more realistic width on the larger sizes. This is a common problem on commercial patterns, but not one that stops annoying me!
Overall Rating: 4.38 — Overall, this pattern could have more inclusive sizing and some tweaks to the fit, but it’s a really lovely design and yields a great finished product. This would be the perfect pattern for using up larger scraps in your stash and those drapey, flowing rayons that are so lovely to wear in the warmer months. Recommended.

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Filed Under: Big 4 Pattern Reviews, Curvy Patterns, Pattern Reviews Tagged With: Curvy Patterns, curvy sewing, hourglass, mccall's 7357, McCalls, pattern review

About Mary Danielson Perry

Mary is a writer and academic from Waco, TX, as well as the co-founder of the Curvy Sewing Collective. Since 2010, she has written about plus size sewing on her personal blog, Idle Fancy, where she documents her love of floral fabrics, secret pajamas, and vintage silhouettes.

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Pattern Review: Paprika Zircon Sweater/Dress »

Comments

  1. Colleen P. says

    April 17, 2016 at 9:12 am

    I cut this out a couple days ago and pin fit it last night-You are so right, this really doesn’t need a lot of alteration to fit a “fluffy” body quite nicely. I’ve got somewhat squared wide shoulders, so the ONLY alteration I am going to have to make is pinching out an extra quarter of an inch on the neckline side of the shoulder seam. That’s IT. It fits like a dream everywhere else, even in pattern paper-I can only imagine how good it’s going to be in fabric!. I’m roughly 50-47-50 (measuring over a teeshirt so not precise but close enough) so definitely an apple-ish shape.. I will probably use smaller seam allowances on the front and side just to give myself some breathing room

  2. Colleen P. says

    April 12, 2016 at 9:06 am

    You have no idea how excited I was to read a review and see this pattern all sewn up! By someone my size, no less! I just dug out a piece of challis to make this top, one that I’ve been trying to figure out a purpose for, for at least a couple of years. I too squealed when I saw it, it has EVERYTHING I love in a tunic top-curved hem, princess seaming, comes in a D-cup, has a v-neck, drapey fluid sleeves…I can hardly wait to get started!

  3. Tracey B. Nelson says

    April 8, 2016 at 6:27 pm

    Aw, this was an incredibly nice post. Spending some time and actual effort to create a great article… but what can I say… I put things off a whole lot and don’t seem to get nearly anything done.

  4. P Buckman says

    April 2, 2016 at 9:50 am

    Cute! Cute! Cute!! And what woman doesn’t love lots of shoes?

  5. Allyson Lyne says

    April 1, 2016 at 4:30 pm

    Great job! Lawn tunics are a tricky thing for curvy shapes, but so essential for summer! I think I might have a go at this one now that I’ve seen how nicely it sews up. I’ll have to grade it up a bit, but it might be worth the effort.

  6. Susan says

    April 1, 2016 at 3:34 pm

    I loved this pattern when I saw it flipping through the pattern books, and bought it when JoAnn had McCalls patterns for $1.99. So, I was really happy to see your post. I think I am going to print out your posting and file it with my pattern. You also clarified something for me-that the model is wearing a camisole. I wasn’t too sure…Having said that, your top looks great. Our measurements are similar and now I have a good idea what I can expect when I make my version!

  7. Kate Martin says

    April 1, 2016 at 11:36 am

    Beautiful top, and a well-done review. Thanks!

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:54 pm

      Thank you, Kate!

  8. Patti Parnell Hall says

    April 1, 2016 at 9:18 am

    This top is beautiful! I love the lines – while it is bohemian, it also looks classic and simple. I think it looks fabulous on you – shoes or no shoes on the print. I wouldn’t even have seen that if you hadn’t mentioned it!

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:54 pm

      Thank you so much, Patti! You are definitely not alone in missing the shoes, at first glance–a friend of mine on Instagram thought it looked more like camouflage than shoes! Between the two, I’m definitely happier to wear fabric covered in shoes. 😉

  9. Amanda Clark Palmer says

    April 1, 2016 at 9:10 am

    It looks really beautiful on you!

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:45 pm

      Thank you, Amanda!

  10. Yvette Matthys Chilcott-Lafoss says

    April 1, 2016 at 9:04 am

    Great job Mary, the top is so flattering. Thanks for sharing a well written review.

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:44 pm

      Thank you so much, Yvette!

  11. PsychicKathleen says

    April 1, 2016 at 9:04 am

    You always have such helpful tips Mary! Lengthening the front when doing a FBA on a princess seam maybe obvious to some but it wasn’t to me! Also making the seam allowance smaller was good advice. I love this blouse on you – although flowy it does need to fit right which I often find a problem with these types of tops. They are too long or big at the waist & hips making them look more like a maternity top. I think it would be lovely in silk 🙂

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:40 pm

      Thank you so, so much, Kathleen! I’m just really glad that you find my reviews helpful. Honestly, learning to sew princess seams with a smaller seam allowance was a revelation for me. It’s remarkable how much smoother they go in, when there’s less fabric on the underside. Also, you’re making me dream of this in silk, now. That would be gorgeous!

  12. LibbyJ says

    April 1, 2016 at 9:00 am

    Awesome top! I have this pattern and was considering making it, but was concerned that it wouldn’t have much shape. You’ve alleviated my fears – it looks beautiful on you, and I love how it’s flowing but still has shape.

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:31 pm

      Thank you so much, Libby! That’s exactly what I love about this pattern, as well–it somehow retains a really feminine shape, while still being flowy. I hope you love it, when you give it a try!

  13. Katina Guy Edwards says

    April 1, 2016 at 8:50 am

    I love it! Unfortunately, I am a size 28 so I could never fit into this! I truly love how detailed you are in your descriptions. I thought the trim was cream. When you saaid it was gray I had to do a double check. Great work! I love these type of blouses too.

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:30 pm

      Thank you, Katina! I actually almost did a cream trim, but want something a little more muted than the cream shirting I had in stash. Matching something to this fabric was such a pain, in that regard! Also, I’m shaking my fist at McCall’s on your behalf. I really wish they would institute a more inclusive size range on all their patterns, not just the specifically “plus size” lines.

  14. Annette Smith says

    April 1, 2016 at 8:36 am

    Really lovely! Funnily enough, I didn’t see the print as shoes. I would probably have paired it with dark brown rather than the lighter colour. Still grounded but perhaps more boring! The darker colour would give more romance and contrast to the decolletage though. I was really surprised to read that the sleeve was 3 piece. I think that makes for much better fitting. You’ve done a wonderful job here and it really suits you.

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:28 pm

      Thank you, Annette! It’s funny that you say that about the print, actually–a friend of mine on Instagram thought it looked like geometric camouflage from far away, which I can absolutely see. It’s definitely one of those fabrics, which makes you peer a little closer, when you see it. Also, a dark brown neckband would have been lovely and absolutely more romantic. You’re making me wish I’d had a darker fabric in my stash for that purpose! Ah, well. That’s what next time will be for.

  15. Carol Isch says

    April 1, 2016 at 8:36 am

    Thank you for your review! I have been eyeing this pattern, and must now put it on my “consider strongly” list. I also agree about the shoulders; it drives me NUTS! As a result of that (and other fitting issues), I find myself using the “big 4” less and less. Your tunic looks lovely, and I really appreciate you review. Thank you, again!

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:19 pm

      Thank you, Carol! I’m so happy that I could help you decide on this pattern more fully. It’s one of my favorite tunic patterns to come out in years, which is saying something considering my collection of them! 😉

  16. Renee Pueringer Berry says

    April 1, 2016 at 8:26 am

    I concur absolutely about the shoulder issue. In fact I usually start with a 16 just for that reason only to modify the rest of the pattern to fit; FBA for DD, then grading out for a 20 in the hips. If I do a 20, which would negate the necessity for a FBA, the shoulders end up halfway down my bicep and I need to take the side seams in at least 2 inches. Its stupid.

    On a separate rant, when are the big 4 going to start giving instructions for setting in sleeves on the flat for knits?

    However, in response to your top, it is lovely. I always love your reviews because they address not only the fit issues but also the sewing techniques. I apparently totally missed this pattern and now need to add it to my want list for next time patterns go on sale.

    • Mary Danielson | Idle Fancy says

      April 1, 2016 at 1:18 pm

      Renee, I am nodding my head wildly, over here. Your pattern fitting gymnastics to get to the right size sound remarkably like my usual alterations. That’s one of the reasons I love working with European patterns, like Burda and Knipmode. They draft on a different block entirely for larger sizes, which factors in in larger cup sizes and narrower shoulders. I still can’t start with my straight-from-the-measurements size, but at least there’s no going down four sizes just to build back up. I always have to pump myself up a little for Big 4 alterations.

      Also, +1 on setting in sleeves flat in knits. It’s absurd to have people doing it in the round!

      I hope you enjoy this top, when you get the pattern! It’s an easy to overlook design, but definitely worth it. 😀

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