Pattern name: McCalls 7258
Size range: Sizes 18 – 32, 46” – 60” hip for the trousers
What size did you make? I made the trousers in a size 22, described as tapered pant with contour waist band.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
I am 5’4” tall, my waist is 41” and hips 46”, but more importantly my tummy is 50”. My inseam is 31” for flat shoes and 32” for heels. I think I am an apple shape.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I added ½” to each outside seam as a ‘just in case contingency’ and extend the back crotch by 1” as my seated crotch to back waist measurement was 1” longer than the pattern. I always have to make these kind of adjustments, at a minimum, on trouser patterns, so the process only took me 10 minutes maximum.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The process was good, no strange deviations, I like the way McCalls extract out of the main pattern instructions on how to complete a fly front. I have made a McCalls fly front several times before AND watched this tutorial from Trudy of Hot Patterns, therefore I am sorted with this now. Otherwise, the construction was very straightforward, as were the instructions.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
This was my biggest leap of faith. In the past, I would have steered away from a trouser pattern with front darts, fullness around the tummy and pockets, all in fear that it would make my widest area look bigger, but with more confidence these days and the growing trend for this shape of trouser, especially in all my favorite ready to wear label Boden, I just had to try this new shape. The outcome is I like them, which I think is down to the slimmer ankle finish and the fact I can pose with my hands in the pockets!
So, yes, I really like the shape. My “just in case I don’t like the front darts” plan was to wear these new shape trousers with long tops but the feedback has been that good I have worn with a shorter top and felt great.
Due to the room the front darts make, these trousers are really nice to sit in, which is great as they were made specifically for me to wear to work, where I sit at a computer a lot of the time.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Yes, I will make this pattern again as this will be my new spring/summer work trouser, although I’m not sure how much work will be done if I don’t stop plunging my hands in the pockets in an attempt to look cool! I have some black poly/wool suiting, which will fall nicely and am even thinking a patterned viscose may work well for the summer months, but I am in Yorkshire, England, so we will see!
What I will change is the front crotch to waist length, this was over a 2” too long. I had to take out when I fitted the waist band, shortening the zip, which worked, but I will get a nicer finish if I adjust the pattern, remembering to make the same changes to the pocket or there will be tears! I will also grade away the extra allowance I made to the outside seams once past my tummy, as this was an unnecessary addition and without it the trouser shape would be sharper.
For pockets, I may follow Trudy at Hot Patterns’ example and make them totally out of lining except for the front 2” which lies closest to the side leg seam. This would remove bulk from the main pocket but you would still only see trouser fabric when the pocket gaped, which I think is a nice touch.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources that helped you sew this piece up?
As I noted earlier, I have watched Trudy’s how-to tutorial on fly fronts more than once. I also purchased and have thoroughly read Pants for Any Body by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch. The crotch adjustments I made are from this book, as will be the shortening for the front. However, I found that most of the book still feels like quantum physics.
The fabric I used is a poly suiting with some movement and fall which has reduced the amount of ballooning in the front. I would be cautious of stiff or bulky fabrics such as cord. The suggested fabrics are wool blends and gabardine but I would personally not use gabardine.
Size Range: 5
Construction Process: 5
Final Fit: 4
Overall Rating: 4.5 as the balance / cut of these trousers are great, they are easy to make and the sizing is not limited.