Hello, readers! With some trepidation I’m sharing this me-made swimsuit. Honestly, if it weren’t for Swimwear Month and the body positive attitude we have here at the CSC, I doubt I would share this, but here I am, basically posing in my skivvies on the internet.
Pattern Name: McCall’s 7168
Size Range: 14-22
What size did you make? Graded up to 26/28
What are your…..
- Measurements: 48-41-52
- Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
- Height: 5’8
- Bra size: 44D
As soon as I saw this pattern, I really wanted to make it. I purchased both the pattern and my fabric last year, but didn’t get around to it until now. I mixed the high-waisted bottoms with gathered sides and the bikini peplum top to make this suit. I pictured something similar to a tankini, but with a little more coverage.
My dressform wears it better.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? This pattern only goes up to a size 22, so I graded it as I normally do to a size 26 for the top and size 26/28 for the bottoms. I feel that this pattern runs large and I could have gotten away with sewing this in a 22 or smaller. I had not sewn any McCall’s [or any other “Big 4”] swimsuits previously, so I wasn’t certain what to expect with the sizing. I generally don’t have a problem with the ease in the woven patterns, but I’ve always had to size down the knit patterns, although I didn’t do so with this one. My focus was on construction whilst sewing this rather than fit and following the manufacturer’s directions. I ended up having to take in some of the side seams on both the top and bottom, which doesn’t look as good on the inside as the lining was already in place.
In addition to re-sizing the pattern, I found that the gathers on the cummerbund/waistband are inadequately designed. The pattern only has markings for gathering on the side seams. When I followed the directions I ended up with a lot of hanging fabric. I’m sure that those gathers are adequate for someone wearing a size 14 or below, but not for me. I added three more gathering spots to make the cummerbund “ruche” more which looks far better to me.
I have 4″ of excess fabric both in the top and the bottom.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? The construction part itself is fine and, for the most part, the instructions are comprehensible. There are a lot of pattern pieces to contend with, so it’s a little overwhelming. I like how the insides are hidden well under the lining, which also was a detriment as that made it difficult to alter after it was together. Granted, I’m not a swimsuit expert and I’m a little out of my field of expertise when swimsuit sewing.
This pattern calls for a 2″ swimwear hook. Neither I nor my CSC colleagues could find one that large or even like the one in the photo below. In a pinch I used a much smaller 1″ swimwear hook that doesn’t resemble the one below but is what I could find at my local Beverly’s (CA fabric/craft store). I made it work, but I plan on adding a larger one when I can find it.
The 2″ hook.
I didn’t like the way the waistband is constructed, so I did it my own way, which I like better. I sewed the raw edges of the waistband to the top of the bottoms and then serged that seam before adding my elastic.
I didn’t follow the waistband directions.
My main issue with this suit is the elastics. The instructions specifically tell you to follow the elastic guides. I accurately measured the guide pieces and re-sized them correctly and I ended up with a whole lotta ugly. The only place where the elastic is not large and rumbly is on the waistband and that is because I did not follow the elastic guide there. I honestly feel that if I followed my gut and my measurements to cut the elastic, that that simple thing may have taken care of most of my sizing problems with this pattern. I fixed a bit of it by taking in some of the seams on both pieces, but it’s certainly not as nice to look at on the interior as it was pre-elastic.
Embarrassed by the elastic.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape? As far as the top goes, I do not like the fit at all. I managed to tweak it a bit by shortening the straps and crossing them on my back to help hold my bosom up and make me feel more secure, but I am not enamored with it. The top does give me the coverage over my belly area that I was looking for, so that helps. I adore the bottoms. My only issue being with the dreaded elastic, which made me a little embarrassed to show you the view from behind.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? I will not be making the top again.
However, I really like the bottoms and will definitely make them again with a few changes for next time. I will size them down, probably to a 22. I will also raise the waistline and lower the leg openings (not sure of the correct nomenclature) so they hit me lower with more of a retro look. I would also cut two fabric pieces for the front and back center pattern pieces for further coverage (there are already two for the each of the side panels as one part is gathered). I cut out a crotch lining piece for this pair.
Yeah, the back clasp is to small. This is me making it work.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up? I do have some advice for the top, especially if you’re more endowed than myself. The top has hardly any support and I believe that adding bra cups would help it immensely. In addition, I feel that adding boning would help with support as would cutting the elastic to fit YOU and not the elastic guide. I also think this top would benefit from rings and sliders on the straps. Seamstress Erin is a great resource for these alterations with several tutorials on her site.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
- Size range: 3
- Instructions: 4
- Construction process: 4
- Final fit: 3
- Overall rating: 3.5
So, will I actually wear this suit? When I first made it, I would have said absolutely not. However, I felt better about it when I put it on for these photos. It does not live up to my Esther Williams suit, but someday when we’re out of a drought and I have a pool, I would wear it then, whilst swimming in the privacy of my abode. I wouldn’t exactly want to wear it to a public pool or beach. It was a good learning experience and I’ll consider this more of a wearable muslin than anything. Right now, I’m fantasizing about making another pair of bottoms out of the pattern combined with the Seamwork Reno swim top. I’m finding that although I don’t like halters for dresses, I do prefer them for swimsuits and that’s something that I need to remember for future swimswear sewing.
Tanya, the first thing that came to mind, when I saw the photos and then the pattern, was, that looks like the sun suits from my youth! Since we are going back 45 to 50 years, my memory may be fuzzy, but I bet that is the reason the 2″ clasp is now unobtainable. The company resurrected the pattern and neglected to update all the changes from half a century ago to this.
That being said, I really like the swimsuit, the style is cute and it fits very well. I would buy this pattern and sew it for a younger (than me) member of my family. It hits straight in the nostalgia bump. You did a great job, Tanya, you ought to be proud of it.
I know I’m late to the party here, but the clasp recommendation reminded me of the closure on a wide elastic belt I had in middle school – maybe this is what you’re looking for: http://www.resashay.com/product/PJ-BC-SI
Thanks, Alyssa! It does look a lot like that!
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!! You. Look. ADORABLE!!!!
GINGHAM! Super cute!
Y’know, I made a swimsuit mixing two Big4 patterns. It was my first and it was a nightmare. And I am definitely NOT anti-Big4; I primarily sew them and Burda! But, I don’t think I’ll be making any Big4 suits again until I have more experience under my belt. And now we all know to never, ever trust those guides.
You definitely made it work though and it is really cute. And I think your next suit will be perfect!
I actually tend to think that working with an indie pattern is better for knits, especially with a company that does a lot of pattern testing.
I actually have the same pattern in my queue to sew. I bought Beverly Johnson’s swimwear craftsy class and asked her about the elusive 2″ swim hook. She checked with her suppliers and confirmed they can’t get larger than 1.25″ if I remember right. I also emailed mccalls. They suggested that “You can try locating it online from pacifictrimming.com or steinlaufandstoller.com.” For the life of me I couldn’t find anything on there in 2″. I was going to do two 1″ clasps instead… But I love that metal hook and eye on etsy that one of the commenters suggested above.
How on earth did that pattern go to print suggesting a notion that is impossible to find?
Ps… You rock that suit!
That is a good question of why they would make a pattern that doesn’t include notions that can be found at one’s local fabric store!
The swim suit is very pretty and you look lovely in it!
Thank you so much for sharing this, you are so brave. I think with a large sunsafe hat you would rock it on the beach – just pop it on and go 🙂 So lovely to see a bright happy color rather than black. You give me such confidence to have a go now. Sam
This is a very pretty style and it really suits you; you look very good in it.
I never worry about ‘support’ in suits I’m going to actually *swim* in, as opposed to lounge around, as the water does a much better job of support than thin wire and a bit of elastic ever could. I do like pre-formed cups, though, to keep those puppies securely enclosed!
Definitely don’t want to flash anyone!
I love this swimsuit! The fabric and the style. Great job!
This is one of my favorite reviews because of your candor. I can’t imagine the deep breath you took before uploading your pic, but I have to tell you I was most taken with your sunglasses. ? Thank you!
The deepest breath was taken when I knew this post was going live!
Aw, you look adorable in this suit in these photos!! I was thinking about the bikini clasp problem… what about some type of belt buckle like https://www.etsy.com/listing/235484068/1-plastic-clip-clasp-buckle-white-belt?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=belt%20clasp&ref=sr_gallery_10,
Or https://www.etsy.com/listing/190279259/2-piece-3-button-clasp-silvertone-steel?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=belt%20clasp&ref=sr_gallery_36,
Or https://www.etsy.com/listing/105443988/two-inch-nickel-plated-clasp-hook-eye?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=belt%20clasp&ref=sr_gallery_36
Thank you, thank you!!!!
I think that swim suit looks really nice on you. It looks like it fits well although that might change when it gets wet. All in all, I think the style looks good on you.
I still say the suit looks quite cute on you in the photos, but I’m sorry it would only be suitable for lounging and not actual swimming! The pink gingham is so dang awesome and I love the direction you were headed when you picked this pattern. Boo that it didn’t fit as you’d hoped.
I’ll just have to make another gingham suit! I’m really loving the new CCF Sophie top!
Too cute! And you look darling! Just wanted to applaud you on a job well done.
It think it’s cute but I can totally relate to the top not giving you enough support. All in all though you look great.
You did a great job and it looks great on you, color and style.
Okay – this is adorable! I love the pattern and the fabric you used. I hate it when you think you have something worked out and do all your ‘normal and regular’ alterations and then it doesn’t fit the way you had hoped! That being said – I think it looks great on you! I do hope you wear it and make another. g
This is SO cute! Thanks for sharing. I love your fabric, and your detailed description of your process. Thank you! 🙂
I likkkkeeee! You look good in it and it does not look home made. I admire you for making a swim suit. I could dare! Is grading difficult?
It isn’t difficult to grade, just time consuming with all of the pieces.
This is an awesome color on you and the style is very flattering. You could canabolize (sp?) a rtw swim suit at the thrift store to find the hardware. I haven’t seen a hook like that either except in rtw.
I hope you make it again with your suggested tweaking.
Great idea! I have some old swim suits that may have hardware to use. I will have to remember this before I toss my old, faded, or picked swim suits!
Tanya- Thanks for sharing this suit, your plan to photograph your definitely helped motivate me to photograph mine! I really appreciate your thorough review since this is SUCH a cute pattern in design, and I would not have realized its pitfalls just from the pattern envelope. Now that I see it on a person, i can see that it is definitely a form over function top! I really LOVE the bottoms on you though, so hopefully you can figure out a way to work those into your swimwear rotation. Thanks for sharing!!
I’ve had patterns that, when made, I absolutely hate and were a horrific struggle to get even a half-decent result … but everybody else seems to compliment sincerely, over and over again. Funny how that works. If only they could see inside, ha ha ha! Even with that in mind, I gotta say, that suit makes you look like a GODDESS! 🙂 Great job. You have inspired me to make swimwear, for sure.
The color is great on you! Great sewing job on a difficult looking pattern.
Your ladies would be shown to better advantage & have more support if you took out about 3″ from the center of the bra.
Hi Tanya, I think I see why the suit as a whole attracted you in the first place, it looks good on you, the only drawback being the pesky clasp and a pattern manufacturer not taking into account that real women need support. I’m glad you mentioned boning, cups etc as I would probably need such support in a swimsuit. You overcame the fit issues well and the fabric really suits you. I’m really glad you’ve shared as I’m sure others will have similar problems with some patterns. I hope the top you are planning to go with the second pair of bottoms goes without a hitch. Thanks so much for sharing, I’ve learnt loads ?
Great job! I’ve been wanting to sew a swim suit for a while now but was afraid of the fabric change. Quick question, what dressform are you using in one of the earlier photos. You and I have a similar size/shape and I haven’t seen one that adjusts up to my size. Thanks!
Hi, Tanya! I love the fabric you chose for this suit and even though you are not as happy with this suit as you hoped to be–I still think it looks great on you! I am also impressed with how brave you are to share this experience with everyone! Keep up the great work you are doing and thank you for sharing!!!
I was so impressed reading all the work you put into this suit! You’re obviously an amazingly skilled sewer 🙂 I think you did a great job with all the adjustments you had to make to make this work at all – the band you constructed on your own actually looks great – like a design feature it should have had all along 🙂 Your story is really a cautionary tale about the limitations so many patterns have for grading upwards. It just doesn’t always work no matter what you do but I think you’re right that a 22 would be just fine with cups added and maybe some boning as well.
Despite the issues you had with the pattern, etc., I think the overall style is really pretty on you. I’d love to see you revisit it one day.
High fivesfor “sucking it up, Buttercup” 🙂 and posting modeled swimsuit photos. I’m sure many of us CSC readers, including me, would never have the guts/confidence. Brava to you and the other CSC bathing suit beauties!!
I think it turned out really beautiful despite all the trouble it gave you, Tanya! I hope you can find more of that fun gingham fabric for another go at swimsuit sewing, because it is so you!
Hi!! Just wanted to say that I love the bathing suit. It is fun and flirty. Wonderful job!!