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Pattern Review: McCall’s 7086

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Hello, readers!

Sometimes you want a special dress that screams spring, and for me, this it!

rose border 1

[source]

Pattern Name:  McCall’s 7086

Size Range:  18W-24W

What size did you make?  Graded up to 26W

What are your…..

  • Measurements:  48-41-52
  • Body Shape:  Pear-ish/Spoon
  • Height:  5’8
  • Bra size:  44D

rose border back

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?  Other than resizing the pattern I did a swayback adjustment and widened the sleeves.  I also cut the skirt in a rectangular shape to work with the border print.  This was easy to resize, but took me a while to cut out as I was figuring out the placement of the border print.

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?  This pattern goes together well and the instructions are easy to follow.  The only problem for me was the cummerbund/knot detail at the waist and getting it to look good and not show the backside.  I thought about stitching it to the bodice, but figured it needed to move around a bit when you wear it rather than being in a fixed place.  It looks really lifeless when hanging on a hanger.

How did you like the pattern’s fit?  Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?  For the most part, I like the fit.  I’m not sure that dolman sleeves are my favorite thing and I wish I would have given myself a little more room.  This style is what I like to wear and what I feel comfortable in, so I think it works well for me.

Will you make this pattern again?  If so, what fit or design changes will you make?  I’m not sure I need another of these dresses in my wardrobe, so I’m not planning on making it any time in the near future.  I have a lot of similar dress patterns that I’d like to try.  If I did make this again, I would enlarge the sleeves about an inch.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers?  Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?  This pattern is easy to make and wouldn’t be too difficult for a beginner to put together.  If you have full biceps like me, I would make a muslin first to check the fit and make sure it’s comfortable for you.  This is not extremely comfortable for me in the arms as I don’t have a lot of movement with the sleeves and bodice being one piece.  I used this method for grading it up and this tutorial for the swayback adjustment.

rose border 3

Pattern Rating (1-5):

  • Size range:  4
  • Instructions:  5
  • Construction process:  5
  • Final fit:  4
  • Overall rating:  4.5

Overall, this is really one of my favorite dresses.  Of course I’m swooning over the fabric, just as I did when I saw the border print cotton sateen online before I bought it.  I think I’m going to end up adding under arm gussets to make this fit a little better and be more comfortable to wear.  That should fix my issues with it and make it a definite A+.

Comments

  1. Gorgeous. This pattern has been on my maybe list for a while. You’ve tipped my vote here Tanya. Roll on pay day and I will be adding this to my collection.

    Your fabric is to die for by the way. Utterly beautiful.

  2. I’m so happy I found this post! I’ve been sewing so much for other people and have had this pattern and fabric ready to go for months now.. You’ve inspired me to get on it!

    And that border print is killer!

  3. OMG, this is so beautiful, I love the way you place the border prints, and the way it accentuate your waist showing those amazing curves. I have been looking at this pattern for a long time, thinking hmmmmmm I don’t love it or hate it, but seeing you in this beautiful creation makes me want to give it a try. You look Amazing, great job.

  7. OMG I LOVE that dress!! The fabric is just gorgeous and I really like how you placed the pattern. You look beautiful!

  8. You look utterly stunning in that dress. It is gorgeous, and the waistline detail sets off your curvaceous figure so well.
    However, how on earth do you (or anyone, for that matter!) manage normal daily activities in woven, non-stretch, dolman sleeves? It’s a style that always makes me feel trapped!

  9. It’s raining cats and dogs where I am today but your dress has given me hope for a cheery spring. Love that flower “belt buckle” placement on the cumberbund! Very flattering on you!

  10. Tanya, your dress is fabulous and you look amazing in it. My question is on sleeve gussets. When do you know it will help and how do you add the gusset.

  11. HOW PERFECT IS THAT?!!!!! i love that you’ve placed a flower right on the center twist. i want to run to my machine and cut into florals!

  12. A delightful look for you! It radiates energy, confidence and a bit of whimsey.

  13. You are a picture of spring and an inspiration! I now plan to buy this pattern along with black lace, organza and hope that I can pull this look off even half as well as you have, you look wonderful!

  14. Your dress is gorgeous! I do love the fabric. Border prints always pull me in. The best part though is the fit. You do an incredible job altering patterns. I’m inspired.

  15. Tanya, you’ve pulled off another gorgeous dress. Very spring! I love the way you placed the border print. It is beautiful fabric and looks lovely on you.I/m going to bookmark it too.

  16. Oh, I have this pattern and even started it with some thrift store fabric (that knot – crazy!) but I put it aside. You have inspired me to get it back out! So beautiful!

  17. I love this dress on you!!! It is so pretty!!! I know it is because it fits you well and the border print is exactly where it needs to be, but someone who does not sew or know this is just going to think you look fabulous with no effort! I hope that you can adjust the sleeves so you feel like wearing this a lot!

  20. The fabric is To.Die.For! I have had this pattern since it came out – I love it! And I’ve even used the skirt on another bodice but I haven’t made the dress yet. I have a beautiful piece of fabric I shared with Carolyn ear-marked for this pattern – but I’m afraid the fabric might be too fluid. Yours is so incredibly lovely and inspiring! g

    • How did you like the original skirt? I’ve wanted to make this pattern since it came out, but didn’t have a fabric earmarked for it yet. I’m so happy how this one worked out.

  22. Tanya, that is so, so pretty. It suits you down to the ground and that fabric…. Eeeeeek!!!!!! (That’s my “oh my god I luuuurve that fabric!” noise) A stellar job to be sure. Am bookmarking this page as inspiration and a reminder of the pattern. Thank you for including the links for the adjustments too.

    Last but not at all least… You look absolutely stunning in your dress, the fabric and fit are perfect.

  23. I love the dress on you. It is gorgeous. You have the same arms I do so I’m happy to see it came out so nice. Coodo’s to you.

    • Thank you, Carol. Honestly, I don’t make many patterns with dolman sleeves, so it’s a bit different way to fit them, but I think the gussets will fix the comfort issue.

  24. Gorgeous as always Tanya! That is summer all wrapped up in a single dress.

  25. Ah, so pretty and looks well made! It definitely screams SPRING in a good way! Cudos!

  27. I love the combination of the style and border print. You did a lovely job with the placement of the border over the bodice (those dolman sleeves are beautiful) and the perfectly positioned rose in the center of the cummberbund. I would do sleeve gussets too.

    • Thank you, Linda. I had all of the fabric layed out on my table as I thought about how to position the pieces. I’m very happy how it all came together.

  28. Tanya, it’s stunning! Congrats on the adjustments and upsizing, the style suits you wonderfully. I hope for you that adding a sleeve gusset makes it more comfy, so you can wear it often. Well done!

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