Tanya and I must have been having a Vulcan mind meld when she was formulating her recent CSC post on sweaterknits. I’ve been sewing up a sweatknit storm, which is slightly ironic since I live in Florida. But it was COLD here recently and it will be again (for a few weeks at a time even!), so none of them will languish very long in the closet between wears. Plus it’s always the Arctic zone in my office so a sweater in Florida in August is not out of the realm of reality.
With my first guest post on the CSC I’m going to review the Hot Patterns 1090 Classix Nouveau Uptown/Downtown Knit Dress (whew! that’s a mouthful!), pattern illustration below (and please excuse the craptastic photos … lighting is hard to come by this time of year). The cardigan I’m wearing above is a Muse Jenna … which I also LOVE and you can read about on my blog here. Its contrast pieces are from the same gray sweaterknit as my HP dress.
Sizing: 6-26 in one envelope, but I find the sizing to run on the bigger side so the top end of size 26 is probably the same and if you’re past the 26, you may not have to grade at all.
What size did you make? I’ve finally learned to go smaller than I usually first think with HPs for the shoulders/chest area and for this dress I cut the neckline at 12, the shoulders and upper torso (and sleeves) at 14, and blended to 16 at the waist seam and below. This is definitely smaller than my measurements compared to the envelope sizing would indicate. While this may seem frustrating when picking a size, the good news is that once you DO settle on a size with HP, it’s very consistent after that. For anyone new to HP, do as HP designer Trudy recommends and MAKE A MUSLIN.
What are your measurements and body shape? Full bust 44DD, waist 39, hips 47.
What adjustments did you make, and how long did they take? I’ve made this pattern once before, for a summer knit dress (below) and for that make, I lowered the neckline 1-1/2″ for more of a scoop and pegged the skirt using my TNT pencil as my template (tapering inward about an inch per sideseam). Because I knew I wasn’t going to use the hem band, I also lengthened the skirt 1-1/2″ which gave me a nice wide hem allowance.
I kept the lowered neckline for the sweaterknit version and for both I didn’t adjust the neckband at all. The summer rayon knit was stretchy enough that everything went together without puckers, but the sweaterknit was a bit more stable and I did end up with gathers at the neckline. But that’s OK because I actually like how they look.
I also made the sweaterknit sleeve bands a lot wider (about double) than the pattern calls for to give me the option of folding up a cuff if I decide to wear this without a top layer. I wear them flat under a cardi and they stay in place fine and at this length, do NOT give me an unwanted bicep bulge.
This rear view shows the sleeve bands folded up. OK, maybe you have to squint a bit to see that.
The last change I made was during the construction for the waist elastic for both versions of the dress. I never sew a joining seam such as this at the same time as applying the elastic, which the HP instructions have you do. Too fiddly. 😉 Instead, I sewed with a 5/8″ seam allowance (1 below), then used a narrow ZZ to sew the seam allowances together close to the raw edge (2 below), leaving an opening to insert the elastic. After the elastic is inserted, sized, and adjusted evenly inside the “casing,” I use a 3-step ZZ (3 below) while stretching the elastic and fabric flat, which holds the elastic in place and prevents it from twisting.
What did you like? I think I like everything about this pattern. It’s easy and fast, no real fitting to do, and it’s versatile since it can be made for warm and cold months. There are also two other options for where the waist seam will hit so even more variety is an option. For mine, I used the “medium” bodice which provided just a little bit of blousing as I wanted and expected. For honesty’s sake, I didn’t believe the pattern for my summer dress and first cut the longer length. Let’s just say after picking out the sewn/serged seam, I became a believer and won’t doubt that length again.
What will you change next time? I’ve already incorporated the changes I need/want the first time I made it, so the sweaterknit version and any others to come are cut and sew. Love that!
What advice do you have for curvy sewists? Give Hot Patterns a try. You’re going to love them! Stylish, with fun details for all sewing levels.
Curvy rating (1 to 5 stars) 5 stars! A very wide range of sizes for all bodies, the dress pieces go together like a dream, and the instructions are good too if you’re a beginner. And as usual for me with HP, no FBA done or needed. Always a win for curvy busty girls!
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| With RTW cardi and me-made scarf from scraps of a past project |
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We’re thrilled that Hot Patterns is offering a giveaway of this pattern to a lucky CSC reader! Just tell us why you want to win, by December 22nd 11.59pm EST.
Great looking dress!
I’d love to win this pattern as this dress would be a great addition to my wardrobe!
I would like to win because I think if I started with a ‘Hot Pattern,’ how could I be anything but “HOT”!!!!!!!
Looks lovely. I’d like to win a copy!
I’d love to own this pattern, I trust Debbie’s reviews and she looks so good in all her versions. Thanks
Great job–lovely frock!
Rose in SV
I’d like to win because, while I’ve always been curvy, I’m much curvier now and have practically nothing that fits. Plus, I’ve a great piece of red and black sweater knit that would be perfect to make this!
I’d love to make more HP! Debbie is my very favorite blogger. 🙂 great job!
I’d love to win because Debbie is rockin’ this gray sweater dress. She provides honest reviews about the patterns she tries. I want to make this dress too.
Why would I want to win? Because my first (and last) attempt to make a FBA alteration to a dress pattern went horribly awry and I ended up with a monstrosity of a dress that looked like it belonged on an NFL player. I would love to be able to sew WEARABLE clothing for myself, and that would be a lot easier if I wasn’t using patterns meant for rectangular women!
I have followed Debbie for as long as I have blogged and would love to give this pattern a try!
I would like to win this pattern to make a warm winter dress to go with boots or leggings.
I would love to try this pattern and would make a sweater dress too.
This is a very cute and comfortable looking dress. I’d love to win a copy.
I’ve had my eye on HotPattens for a long time now, just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I need to do that, they look SO GOOD on others.
I have never tried a Hot Patterns pattern, but this is the one I would try if given the chance.
I’ve wanted to try a Hot Patterns pattern for a long time!!!!!!!! This looks like something that could work in winter with leggings and cardigan and in the summer with sandals.
I haven’t ever made a Hot Patterns outfit, but I think this one has swayed me! Fabulous review! Thank you!
I have yet to try a pattern by Hot Patterns, but I’ve had my eye on several of them. This one in particular has been on my list. I would love to win it so I can try it out.
I think this pattern woudl work well for my body!
I would love to win this pattern. I LOVE Hotpatterns, but don’t, yet, own this particular pattern.
This is a lovely dress and one that I have liked for a long time. I would love to make something like this that was effortlessly stylish for work as I am a bit tired of always being in trousers but find suit skirts uncomfy. I have got some HP patterns that I bought when they first started. Still not got round to using them yet but would like to as they are very fashion forward. I love the fact that they have a huge size range and nice that there are stockists in the UK now.
What a great dress! I’ve tried two HP patterns and have been pleased with both – I’d love a chance to make this dress. Thanks for the informative review, and good tips!
Oh I have never made one of their patterns and I love how it looks! This looks comfortable too and perfect for the cold months.
Love your dresses. Although I love Hot Patterns, I didn’t give this one much of a look until I started seeing it on actual people. Would love to win and give it a try!
I want to win because I wear dresses and skirts a lot, and I want to start trying to make my own. dawnm1993(at)gmail(dot)com
I’ve been meaning to try out this pattern company, but I want them all! It’s really hard to only choose 1 or 2 at a time.
Great dress. Would look awesome in merino for winter. Love the cardigan too
I love oggling these patterns. I hope to treat myself to a few in the upcoming week. Anytime a pattern calls for minimum to not alterations is winner to me. The dress looks great.
I don’t understand the question, but I love this dress. Definitely flattering for us curvy girls!
I’d love to try out one of these Hot Patterns, this dress looks gorgeous! Especially on you 🙂 I’m also unsure by the question? I always want to meet new sewers, who doesn’t like talking about fabric, and notions, and techniques, and stuff 🙂
Love the dress. It’s nice to find a site that talks about patterns that look good on those of us who have a more mature figure. I’m going to check out the Hot Patterns site.
Lovely dress, it’s a shame that there aren’t more reviews for hot patterns out there. I like to obsessively google to make sure a pattern looks good on big girls before I buy. This dress looks great though so I’ll definitely be giving HP a try after the holidays. Not too sure about the question either but I’d love to meet more sewists too! There’s a big quilting guild in my area, but I never really got into quilting.
This looks like a great pattern. Out of curiosity, the prompt says to “tell us why you want to meet.” If that means to meet you (any of you!), then my answer is that you all seem like a great bunch of people who take no crap!
Lovely dress, and I especially like your entire look… great boots, belt, cardigan and scarf! Inspiring, and I’ll definitely have to give HotPatterns a try!
holy cow, that is one flattering dress! nice job Debbie!!
This dress is FANTASTIC! It’s clean lines looks like it could be a staple in many wardrobes.
Yeah, I’m with Tracie–not enough sewing friends here! Thanks for this review!
I really like this dress. You did a beautiful job creating this flattering dress. It looks comfortable and casual while being classic and work appropriate at the same time. I would definitely make it up because I love it!
Love those knits! Just bought some jersey to make the plunge into stretch sewing. Also been eyeing HP patterns so I’m excited to see your timely review. Just beautiful Debbie! Did you get my email? Now send me your address already so I can mail your Christmas exchange 🙂
What a beautiful dress! Definitely a staple item for winter
Good show. Debbie Cook has provided some of the most reliable and helpful pattern reviews on SewingPatternReview, and been generous with clear, practical technical fitting advice. Hot Patterns seems to fly under the radar of the current haze of indy pattern lines, and that’s a real shame. The fit and drafting are GREAT, as Debbie mentions well-fitting and wearable for a goodly size range. Trudy has produced a staggering variety of styles over the decade or so of their existence – she currently seems to be doing s lot of very current street style, and has, over the last year, produced really practical little wardrobe plans for real life – no trench coats and little black dresses or cashmere twin-sets. I would describe her work has having a certain classic quality – not YACSC (Yet Another CHanel-Style Cardigan) but rather clothing which is both of the moment but will still be wearable years down the road Check ’em out – i appreciate the younger (at 66 i,m allowed to say this without ironic finger-quotes) of many posters here, and i think the vibe of Hot Patterns would be a good fit. Yes, i also applaud Style Arc, but Trudy’s work is less like current RTW – the two houses are compementary, at least for my wardrobe.
Because there aren’t enough people who enjoy talking about sewing around where I live!