Hi CSC! Many moons ago I signed up to be a potential guest contributor on CSC in the event a pattern company ever reached out, hoping to get a curvy gals opinion on their patterns. Imagine my delight when my email pinged to let me know there was a red hot opportunity to review some DIBY.club patterns.
Today I am reviewing their much anticipated Bravado Bootleg Jean Pattern.
It includes both mid-rise and High-rise options and both Ankle and Flood length hemlines.
***Whilst I received the denim and hardware kit, and the pattern at no cost, I’m a pretty hard task master and it in no way affects my thoughts or opinions on the pattern, pinkie swear.***
Right off the bat, I was super impressed that DIBY.club goes right from a Misses 00 to a Plus 36, All in one pattern, all for one price! I land right up the top end with my full hip measurement fluctuating between 60” -66”, I am also on the short side at 5ft2.5” tall with a 25” inseam.
DIBY.club Fit Measurements:
Waist 24” (61cm) – 59 ¾” (151cm)
Full Hip 34” (86cm) – 67” (170cm)
Drafted for someone 5ft5” (165cm) with a 28 ½” inseam (72.52cm)
Based on my measurements on muslin day, I graded between the 32 high hip, 34 full hip, 34 mid-thigh, And chose to run that straight down for a straighter lower leg.
My crotch to knee length matched the crotch to knee length of the pattern and the lower leg had no shaping, so in this instance I decided to hem to desired length at the end, rather than altering the lower leg pattern for my shorter lower leg.
My first knee length muslin showed I needed to make some alterations….
For my final jeans I scooped out the back rise substantially (Approximately 2” overall) and removed an inch from the back inner leg seam from crotch to knee. I also scooped out the front rise by about ½” and ‘trued up’ the crotch seam.
(Truing the seam wasn’t in the pattern, but it was necessary for me to do, so I could have an end garment to show you without a peak where my crotch points met, but here is a great link that I used: http://surefitdesigns.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/do-you-have-crotch-peak.html )
These adjustments compensated for my “Tiny Heiny,” “Camel Toe,” and “Wedgie/Low derriere” (Their words, not mine!). They are standard adjustments I would need to make for my shape (to varying degrees) in other patterns too. These adjustments did take some time. However, it was completely worth it
You may also notice there is a little excess fabric across my hips on the sides. I did take this area in a bit from the initial muslin (about a 1/2 inch on each side) and the patterns talks you through removing that excess completely. However, as I tend to fluctuate wildly through this area of my body from 60 to 66 inches, I chose to leave a little excess fabric, rather than relying solely on the stretch of the fabric.
Ideally, I would also have done a knock knee adjustment. This wasn’t in the ‘fit adjustments’ at the back of the pattern, but it would reduce some of the ‘wrinkles’ (And excess fabric) on the outside of knee, while removing some of the ‘pull marks’ (by adding fabric) to the inside thigh seam. It is a pattern adjustment I will make subsequent pairs and also common for me in other patterns.
While scooping out the front and back curves did change where the jeans hit my waist, I didn’t make any compensation for this at all as I prefer the higher rise on me. The back completely covers my underwear – *Winning*
The pattern was great to make – everything was explained very clearly, and there were a bunch of DIBY.club tutorial videos to click through to for areas one might commonly get stuck (Zipper flys, Slat Pockets, Button Holes, Flat Felled Seams etc.). However, it wasn’t my first pair of jeans. I feel that any pattern that has a zipper, button hole, and slat pockets deserves more than a 2.5 star pattern difficulty rating, even if the instructions and videos are remarkable!
I love my jeans. They are SO comfortable, and they look miles better than the one pair of store bought jeans I own, but I do have a few (very) little niggles.
1) I really wish there were pocket stays. My pockets keep bunching and I keep getting a little crease in the denim in the pocket.
2) The coin pocket size grows as the fit measurement grows. I feel this is likely a design element, so visually it is proportionate with the size pocket it is in. However, this is an easy adjustment to make for future pairs.
My advice to others making this pattern is – just do it – But do it all, and do it right.
Take really really accurate measurements.
Adjust for height first, correctly.
Take pictures of your behind, brazenly, from every angle.
Go through the alterations at the end.
Don’t be the person who takes measurements over the top of what you are wearing. Pick the largest of those sizes that you fit into, make it without grading anything, and question why it doesn’t work for you…. We’ve all been that person…. But this pattern gives you the opportunity for SO much more than that!
Size Range (1-5)
5 – I don’t personally know another pattern company who does such an exhaustive size range, on separate blocks for misses and plus, who sell both as one pattern.
4.5 – They are clear and completely exhaustive. Adding to that the live links to tutorials and the DIBY.club facebook community on top of that & it is a real winner. Please, don’t be overwhelmed by the sheer size of the booklet (53 pages!). It’s all there for the purpose of getting the best fit for you!
Construction Process (1-5)
4.5 – It goes together well, the pieces all fit, but realistically, you are playing with a stretch fabric, which is a thick fabric, multiple pieces, easing in, zippers, buttons, rivets. DIBY.club have done everything they can to make it a great experience, but you’re still making a pair of jeans!
Final Fit (1-5)
4 – As mentioned above, the bunchy pockets, big coin pocket and lack of knock knee adjustment are my only real downsides – I’m really am so pleased with the final fit.
Overall Rating (1-5)
4.5 – This pattern started with sizing that actually encompassed the size of my curves. While the pattern did require some considerable changes to fit my curves well, they were all expected changes. It also walked me through what tell tale signs my jeans had to show where these adjustments were needed and then how to go about making them. I was really impressed this was done proactively as part of the pattern, not as a string of tutorials after the pattern release. I can’t wait to make my next pair!