Pattern name: Designer Stitch Jenny Dress
According to Designer Stitch, “The Jenny Dress is a gorgeous semi-fitted dress with dart shaping sitting just above the knee. The dress has a flattering extended cap shoulder, a centre back zipper and back hem vent. The Jenny Wrap Dress can be constructed with its fashionable tie front overlay or make the Jenny Classic as a simple silhouette.” Jenny has side bust darts plus fish-eye darts for shaping on the back and front bodices. It uses an all-in-one facing to finish the neck and armscyes.
Designer Stitch is a new-to-me (and relatively new, generally) pattern company. I was delighted both to see that the patterns come in sizes 6-26 and that the designer has many years of experience designing RTW and teaching sewing and pattern making classes. I figured that was promising! I’ve listed Designer Stitch in the CSC’s Plus Size Pattern Companies directory.
There are several interesting patterns in the Designer Stitch line, but the Jenny dress jumped out at me (as did the Georgia top, which I posted on my blog earlier this week). I really liked the versions I saw on the Designer Stitch website, particularly the geometric print version, and, of course, the one worn by the lovely curvy lady. I opted to make the wrap version of the Jenny dress (no, not that kind of wrap dress!), because it’s the hip wrap that drew me to the pattern in the first place. I thought that this type of dress could be really versatile: the plain version could work for the office or cocktail party, but in a tropical print with flat sandals, the wrap version would kill at a summer party. This fitted style of dress isn’t something I make or wear often, but I was curious to experiment a bit and thought that having the wrap bit would make me feel a bit less self-conscious about wearing a form fitting dress.
Size range: Designer Stitch patterns run up to size 26 AUS/22 US/54EU, which is up to a 52” bust, 43.5” waist, 54” hip
What size did you make? 16 at the bust graded out to 18 from the bust down
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Bust: 41.5″ Waist: 35″ Hip 45.5 Height: 5’7.5″ Body type: pearish
What adjustments did you make?
I made a quick quilting cotton muslin of the dress (no wraps, no facings, no zip, no ironing) to get a sense for fit. I was pleasantly surprised as how great the fit was with no adjustments! I figured I would need a swayback adjustment, which is a typical adjustment for me, but it was pretty darn smooth in the back. It helps that there is shaping along the back seam; it’s not just a straight line. I found the fit at the bust, neckline, shoulders to be pretty fabulous, too! Check out my inside-out muslin:
The main issues I detected was that I needed to lengthen the skirt by about 2” and try to work on some of the pulling I was having due to my full tummy. I posted a photo of the muslin on Instagram and Ann from Designer Stitch suggested that I just loosen the darts a bit to give myself more room. I could have done a true full abdomen adjustment (like Michelle explained here and Maria demonstrated here), but since I was going to make the wraps for my final version, I figured they would camouflage it a bit. Plus, I knew that when I was sewing the dress, my tummy was at its maximum monthly bloat level, if you know what I mean. If I were making the classic/plain Jenny dress, though, I think I would put more effort into fixing this issue the right way.
I made those changes, and yet somehow my final version of the dress came out much tighter than the muslin. Maybe because of a lack of mechanical stretch in the fabric (it’s a tightly woven cotton poplin)? I’m not quite sure. But it was uncomfortably tight, particularly in the back, so I ended up loosening the back darts and the side seams a bit through the belly and hips. Sigh. Even then you can still see some pulling…looks like two pigs fighting under a blanket, as Ouiser might say.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process was really quite simple and straightforward. The instructions were good and the order made sense to me. I fell in love the all-in-one facing while making the Jenny dress- such a neat finish!
I appreciate how the hip wrap ties are very tapered so they tie easily and are not bulky. The fact that they are lined is great, too, so the wrong side of your fabric doesn’t show when you tie the knot.
The only thing of note was that the seam allowances are 5/8” at the major seams (shoulders and side seams) and ¼” for “interior” seams (neckline, armholes, and inside the hip wrap), which is fine, but you do have to pay close attention to make sure you’re using the right seam allowance in the right place! Each pattern piece notes the seam allowances and there are reminders in the instructions, too, so it’s not that difficult to remember. Having the narrow seam allowance eliminated the need for lots of trimming and clipping around the curves of the neckline, which is fabulous! Mine lays pretty flat as is!
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
The style is close fitting, which, as I said, is not typically a style I wear, so I think I am still getting accustomed to the feeling. I love how the front looks- the wrap definitely helps me to feel less self-conscious about the close fit there. However, the back feels a bit too tight still. But the overall shape is great and I think the fitting issues are fairly minor.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I would make this again, definitely. I love how it looks in the front and I’d like to solve my fit issues in the back. I think fabric choice may have been my downfall here- the poplin I chose is a bit stiff and unforgiving for this type of close-fitting design. I’d like to try the Jenny in a stretch sateen, as Tinker and Stitcher did here; I think it would be really comfortable and allow for movement.
I also think the Jenny could be super cool as a pencil skirt, paired with a t-shirt or tank top. It would be easy to cut it off at the spot where the hip wraps connect and draft a quick waistline facing. Adding that pattern hack to the queue! Maybe with different fabrics for the wrap and the main skirt?
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
My advice is to follow the size chart closely; there really is not a lot of extra ease built in. Otherwise, the Jenny dress is a pretty straightforward sew.
The Designer Stitch blog has some industry-insider tips and tricks that might be worth checking out, too, such as easy pattern marking and block fusing your interfacing .
*Please note: I received the Jenny dress pattern for free, but all my opinions are my own.
Pattern Rating (1-5, with 5 being the highest rating)
Size Range: 4.75 A pretty wide ranges of sizes!
Instructions: 5 The instructions were quite clear and straightforward.
Construction Process: 5 The construction process is straightforward and made sense to me. There were some nice construction and design details that I really appreciated, like the all-in-one facing, lined wraps, small seam allowances for interior seams…
Final Fit: 4.25 I really like the fit in the front of the dress, but have some issues to work out in the back. That said, it’s a new style for me, so to a certain extent the close fit will take some getting used to!
Overall Rating: 4.75 I think the Jenny pattern is great. It went together easily, with clear instructions and helpful attention to detail in the construction, all the notches match up. Plus, it’s a cute style. While I have some minor fit issues, I think they are just that: minor. The general shape and fit are quite nice! I’m curious to try some of the other Designer Stitch patterns!
I really like this. You look great, and I love that print. This style is out of my comfort zone, too. But you may have inspired me to at least try it! It’s cute.
Thanks, Leigh Ann! Sometimes it’s fun to push our boundaries a bit…
That dress looks so good on you! I know that you said that you think it is snug, but it looks fab and I love the fabric.
Thanks, Annie! Some of it might be in my head because I’m not accustomed to wearing fitted dresses!
This is such a gorgeous dress on you, Meg! I am also a bit uncomfortable with close fitting skirt styles, but that wrap is really interesting design feature, with that in mind. It’s both super chic and adds visual interest right where I want it! Thanks for another great review!
Thanks, Mary! Ha, part of me wishes the wrap was around the back, too, for a security blanket back there 😉
I’m wondering if you think the pattern could be modified to having the more toward one side? You don’t need it–the dress looks great on you, but I would be more comfortable with something a little asymmetric.
bah, I didn’t proof read. should read: modified to having the tie moved toward one side.
I think that would be a pretty easy modification to the wrap pieces, Maureen. I imagine you could shorten one side and lengthen the other (in the same way you shorten/lengthen a skirt, except vertically) to have the knot sit to one side.
You look incredible, and this dress is gorgeous! I am SO interested in that hack you mentioned… It would be fabulous…
Thanks so much, Susan! I think it would look really cute as a pencil skirt!!
Oh I love this idea 🙂
Thanks, Ilona! It’s a lovely pattern!
So pretty! I really love this on you. Not a silhouette I’d normally pick for myself either, but you made me want to try it.
Thanks, Camila! The closer fit is definitely unusual for me and I think some of my discomfort with it is purely mental- but I really do like the look of the dress!
Stunning as usual, Meg! That dress really suits you and that fabric is gorgeous!
Thanks, Tanya!! 😉
Hi Meg,
As always, your garments are beautiful and your reviews very helpful. I love peacock feather patterned fabric, so I was captivated right away. The dress looks great on you. Fitted styles can be so flattering, but they do require a little more ‘attitude’ to wear. And sometimes different undergarments. I’m wondering if you try a silky camisole or slip if that wouldn’t solve the back fitting issue. The poplin might just need an under layer to glide over.
I’m glad you mentioned that the pattern designer used to design for RTW. Those seam allowance differences are standard for RTW pattern design. Using that 1/4″ seam allowance ‘inside’ instead of 5/8″ takes lots of time off of garment construction when producing apparel on a mass scale. I’m glad the designer brought that time-saving element to a home sewing pattern. I’m definitely going to check out this pattern company.
Thanks, Denise! Glad the review was helpful! I really appreciated all the little RTW techniques in this pattern’s construction; you’re right that it saved a lot of time! You’re also right that slippery undergarments would help smooth things out- perhaps my fabric would have benefited from a lining.
Your fabric choices are always exceptional – gorgeous colors and appealing prints. I’m envious.
Thanks, Amy! I am a color and print addict… can’t get enough!
Thanks for your review! I really appreciate the effort you put in to these, and they influence my pattern purchases.
This is a very attractive dress on you. I think the print is complimentary to your coloring, and the dress style really shows off your figure! I’m glad to hear you’ll make it again.
Glad the review is helpful, Brenda! And thanks so much for your lovely compliments!
You look fabulous. The fit is lovely and seems perfect for you. Not sure if I would like that knot on me. Could you leave it off?
Thank you, LoisAnn! Yes! You can make the dress without the ties/hip wraps- they are additional pieces sewn into the side seams.
That is a darling style with the tied front skirt. And you look good in it. The pix don’t show the fabric stiffness you describe, but I can imagine a soft fabric would work better with the drape/tie detail. You always look good in your clothes, (the camera doesn’t catch how you feel in them) but I’d have to have a bit of stretch in such a fitted style. It’s a winner. Do it again!
Thanks, Susan! I love the tied front so much! I’d definitely use a fabric with a bit of stretch next time for comfort’s sake.
I agree with Masha – it’s really flattering! I love it – and like you I don’t tend to go for really form fitting clothes but this looks great. I wonder if you had sewn it on the bias if that wouldn’t have helped to provide a little more give? That’s my latest LOVE – sewing wovens on the bias. No more straight grain for me!
Thanks, Kathleen! I haven’t done much sewing with bias fabric, but you’ve got me curious now!
I loved reading your review. I would have been hesitant to try that style thinking that the wrap knot in the middle would bring attention to the tummy area however I am not sure if it if the lovely fabric you chose that distracts my eyes elsewhere but it works! I think you should look at the fitted dresses more you carry it off well. Well done and thank you for the review.
Thanks so much! Ha ha- I was a little bit nervous that the wrap/knot might backfire and actually draw attention to the tummy, but I think, in the end, it does a good job camoflaging! A busy fabric helps, too. Yay for prints!
This is really gorgeous fabric and the dress suits you. The back wrinkles are very minor as you say. Happy sewing
Thanks, Tracey! Glad the wrinkles aren’t that noticeable- I think part of it is mental since I don’t typically wear fitted dresses.
I think the back wrinkles point to the fact that your back waist length is a little shorter than the pattern allows for. Just shorten the back bodice up by taking a 1/4″ tuck across the mid/lower back, which will shorten the bodice by about 1/2″. You may also have to do this on the front bodice for side seams to match, or if it is just the back that needs shortening, take the tuck a center back and taper to nothing at the side seams. That should do it!
Thanks, Mary! Yes, on my final version it looks like I might need to take a bit of length out even though it didn’t appear I would need to from my muslin. Some of the wrinkles are definitely due to the close fit, though- it’s just a tad tight in the back!
This is a really good review to read Meg thanks. Like you I don’t go for fitted styles but I truly love this dress and your fabric choice – it really suits you. Difference in fabric from muslin to final dress is an issue to look out for for every make – duly noted!
Thanks, Cherry! The muslin/final difference is still a mystery to me!
It’s really flattering on you, Meg – even the back wrinkles aren’t that big of a deal.
Thanks, Masha! I like the dress, too. The wrinkles are not that bad, I was honestly just surprised at how much tighter my final version turned out relative to my muslin. Sewing mysteries!!