I’ve seen Colette Laurel dresses sewn a lot all over the blogosphere, but I don’t think it gets enough credit as a top. Although I needed to make some alterations- it’s such a versatile pattern that the simple alterations I did do were worth it.
The first time I sewed up laurel, in Colette’s size 18. I added four inches to the length of the pattern before I even realized it would need any other modifications. I have an unusually long torso, so that’s a pretty standard alteration on tops for me. This was the result of the first fitting.
Not the worst fit I’ve ever sewn, but there are some definite issues.
- Drag lines on the bust tell me I need to do a FBA
- The bust dart is up to high for my breasts
- Gaping at the back of the neckline
- Tightness along the upper back
- Tightness along the lower bicep area
- Some weird drag lines on the armhole
So I got to work fixing everything. I started with the bust. I did a full bust adjustment, and lowered the dart using the box method. Then, I moved onto the back. I pinched the excess fabric out of the center back seam to stop the gaping issue. I then tapered it out from the center back seam to give more ease along my broad back. I could have probably taken some ease out and made a smaller dart as well.
Finally I addressed the issues with the sleeves. The main issue a lot of people were having, even if they didn’t need to do a full bust adjustment, were drag lines above the bust. It seems like there may have been a small drafting error in the sleeve head. It doesn’t fit very well into the sleeve. This diagram was posted on flickr by wzrddreams explaing the problem. I filled in the small area on the armscye that the diagram recommends. I then did an adjustment to increase ease along the bicep area of the sleeve. While it seems like a ton of work, I did it in about an hour. It involved lots of tape and tracing but was overall worth it.
I got a really versatile pattern for a woven top or shift dress. I made the second version up in a cotton lawn, which is my preferred fabric for the pattern. I’ve since made this pattern a lot, like “more than anything else I’ve ever sewn” a lot. It’s kind of a wonder how motivated you can be when you know something is going to fit you well!
Scoring 1-5:
Size range: 2
The sizing on this pattern is the old system of sizing for Colette and only goes up to my size, a size 18 (46-38-48). Although they’ve rectified this in newer patterns which extend up to a size 26 (54-46-56) they haven’t retroactively increased the size of the older patterns.
Instructions: 5
I rarely have issues with the Colette instructions, and these instructions were easy to follow and well explained.
Construction Process: 4
The only reason I’m not giving this a five is because of the armscye issue discussed above.
Final Fit: 5
I’m including all my alterations in the final fit. Once I modified it, I think it fits nicely. I don’t think it’s fair to assume patterns are going to fit right out of the envelope. We all have fitting adjustments no matter our size. I’m glad to have learned how to do a lot of new fitting techniques as well. Since it’s a simple pattern it’s a good block to learn on.
Overall Rating: 4
It’s a solid, simple, versatile pattern. If you take the time to fit it correctly you’ll be making it over and over
Such a helpful post, thank you for the great information on fitting the Laurel! Did you do your FBA before lowering the bust dart?
awesome. thanks for the info on the armscye.
I love your Moonrise Kingdom matching costume set! Too adorable.
These look great!! Do you happen to know if anyone has hacked some of the older Collette Patterns to help them fit beyond a size 18???
Hi Paige, It does look terrific as a top! I love your Laurels! 🙂
Nice job, this dress always looked quite ill fitting in the Colette pics. To my eye the back darts need to be shortened. A CB seam would give nice back shaping if there is extra to deal with at the lower shoulder area. On seeing the link to the Flickr photos of the other girl, it looks to me like she hadn’t reduced the size of the sleeve head to account for the reduction in armscye size – the sleeve head is about to pucker. I don’t know if this is an issue in yours, it might have just been that the ease wasn’t distributed evenly on hers, could also be the fabric. I probably wouldn’t make this dress to be honest, it looks so much like my basic block that if one had a basic block you might as well make it up with extra ease as a pseudo laurel!
I probably like this because I don’t actually work from a basic block and agree that if you’ve got one already use that. Laurel does include a center back seam, if that’s what your referring too. I didn’t have puckering issues so much as drag lines, and at first I assumed it was because I am broad shouldered, but it seemed like even people that weren’t were having that problem. I usually don’t have too many issues with setting sleeves, I do three gathering lines when easing so it looks nice and even for the most part. Thanks for the comment!
I have made five versions of the Laurel, four dresses and one shirt. It is such a wearable summer pattern, but I too had to adjust. I cut a size 12 in the shoulders, 14 for the rest of it. I did a 3 inch FBA (six total) and then ended up putting in tiny shoulder darts to deal with the puckering at the back neck. It is the simplest dress out there and fast make. It is totally doable in an afternoon, even if you hand stitch the hem down. It is ripe for adjustments — peter pan collars, bound hems, exposed zips, lapped zips, invisible zips, the options are endless.
Great review! I hadn’t considered this pattern before and will go back and look at it. Thanks
I was not impressed when it came out, but it has ending up being made over and over and over again.
Love your review of this pattern. You really did a great job explaining what was wrong…and yes all patterns do not fit everyone and have to be adjusted, but your comments make it seem like it is something even I could follow. Thank you.
It really wasn’t that terrible! I think knowing how to address fit issues is half the battle!
Oh I didn’t think it was terrible. I just was pressed how well you explained the changing you made. Geeat job. Thanks.
Yeah I had to get over being upset when patterns I liked didn’t fit me correctly. I have a non standard body for drafting and that’s okay. I know a lot of people didn’t care for laurel, but I think they just wanted it to fit right out of the envelope. It’s such a simple pattern that the smallest fit mistakes show up quite bit, so you just have to take your time with it.