The Colette Jasmine blouse is beginner-rated pattern. It’s a lovely, figure-skimming top with no closures, due to the flattering bias cut. This blouse is shaped with bust darts and center seams that gently hug the body. Version 1 has a long collar that can be tied in a bow and elbow length sleeves gathered to a cuff. Version 2 has a shorter contrast collar and a notched cuff.
I was looking for something a la Miss Fisher – 1920’s Australian detective and femme fatale. Her wardrobe on the show is gorgeous and I was particular taken with the blouses she wears:
The Jasmine blouse pattern is multisized, ranging from 0 to 18, up to a 46″ bust, 38″ waist and 48″ hip.
The recommended fabric includes silk crepe, silk twill, cotton shirting, lawn, voile, batiste and swiss dot. I used a polyester chiffon for the first one and lightweight silks for the next two.
I made Version 1 size 16 with an FBA which added 4 inches to the circumference. I am 5’8’ with a 41” high bust, 45″ bust, 47” hip. I wear a bra size 34E.
I did not make a muslin *gasp*. I measured the flat pattern, calculated the finished dimensions and did multiple fittings during construction. The fabric is a polyester chiffon. It was the biggest challenge because it was so slippery and drapey. The next two tops I did in silk.
My FBA was a 2 inch adjustment (per side) and was very easy on this pattern. Double check your bust apex for a good fit. I put the top of the dart 2 inches away from the bust apex:
All the seam markings on the pattern were perfect. Cutting for the body is done in single layers so take care there. I used a sew in interfacing and the next two I used sheer fusible. Both work, just check what temperature your fabric can withstand.
Stay stitching the necklines is a must, but do not let your machine gather the fabric at all.
For the sheer-ish fabric I did not want a big triangle of fabric showing and basically pointing at my chest so I did a faux French seam on the dart. After I stitched the dart and pressed into shape I sewed another line of stitching ¼ from the dart stitching and trimmed close to those stitches:
I chose to do French seams for the front and side seams (see photo below). The raw edge is enclosed and the seam is quite fine. I am by no means a master of these. I did faux French seams for the shoulder seams to keep them neat.
The collar can be difficult as there are 4 layers to work with. Make sure all your markings are accurate. I recommend lots of basting during collar assembly and attaching it to the bodice.
Because I have meaty upper arms (yes, I am femme forte), I made the sleeve a size 18. I hate any binding around the bicep and always have to check that part of a pattern. For the sleeve cap I recommend running a basting stitch from notch to notch and then the second line from dot to dot, rather than only gathering dot to dot. I think the sleeve looks nicer, less poufy, with most of the gathering dot to dot rather than all of it.
The final hem was done with my rolled hem foot. Always a Murphy’s law opportunity – when everything is going well you have obviously overlooked something – like your empty bobbin.
I like this pattern. I made 2 more after the first one. The last will have no collar or sleeves. It’s flattering and easy to wear. The collar may be challenging for a beginner in a very drapey fabric but basting is your friend here, as well as lots of clipping. The instructions are clear and in a booklet with a pocket in back for those small pattern pieces – clever.
Size range: 3- The size range for the Jasmine tops out at 18. With the FBA that we curvy gals need, bigger girls than me could make this successfully.
Final fit: 5
Overall rating: 4.5- This is definitely a TNT for a pretty, feminine, unfussy blouse so I’d call it a great pattern.