The Colette Jasmine blouse is beginner-rated pattern. It’s a lovely, figure-skimming top with no closures, due to the flattering bias cut. This blouse is shaped with bust darts and center seams that gently hug the body. Version 1 has a long collar that can be tied in a bow and elbow length sleeves gathered to a cuff. Version 2 has a shorter contrast collar and a notched cuff.
I was looking for something a la Miss Fisher – 1920’s Australian detective and femme fatale. Her wardrobe on the show is gorgeous and I was particular taken with the blouses she wears:
The Jasmine blouse pattern is multisized, ranging from 0 to 18, up to a 46″ bust, 38″ waist and 48″ hip.
The recommended fabric includes silk crepe, silk twill, cotton shirting, lawn, voile, batiste and swiss dot. I used a polyester chiffon for the first one and lightweight silks for the next two.
I made Version 1 size 16 with an FBA which added 4 inches to the circumference. I am 5’8’ with a 41” high bust, 45″ bust, 47” hip. I wear a bra size 34E.
I did not make a muslin *gasp*. I measured the flat pattern, calculated the finished dimensions and did multiple fittings during construction. The fabric is a polyester chiffon. It was the biggest challenge because it was so slippery and drapey. The next two tops I did in silk.
My FBA was a 2 inch adjustment (per side) and was very easy on this pattern. Double check your bust apex for a good fit. I put the top of the dart 2 inches away from the bust apex:
All the seam markings on the pattern were perfect. Cutting for the body is done in single layers so take care there. I used a sew in interfacing and the next two I used sheer fusible. Both work, just check what temperature your fabric can withstand.
Stay stitching the necklines is a must, but do not let your machine gather the fabric at all.
For the sheer-ish fabric I did not want a big triangle of fabric showing and basically pointing at my chest so I did a faux French seam on the dart. After I stitched the dart and pressed into shape I sewed another line of stitching ¼ from the dart stitching and trimmed close to those stitches:
I chose to do French seams for the front and side seams (see photo below). The raw edge is enclosed and the seam is quite fine. I am by no means a master of these. I did faux French seams for the shoulder seams to keep them neat.
The collar can be difficult as there are 4 layers to work with. Make sure all your markings are accurate. I recommend lots of basting during collar assembly and attaching it to the bodice.
Because I have meaty upper arms (yes, I am femme forte), I made the sleeve a size 18. I hate any binding around the bicep and always have to check that part of a pattern. For the sleeve cap I recommend running a basting stitch from notch to notch and then the second line from dot to dot, rather than only gathering dot to dot. I think the sleeve looks nicer, less poufy, with most of the gathering dot to dot rather than all of it.
The final hem was done with my rolled hem foot. Always a Murphy’s law opportunity – when everything is going well you have obviously overlooked something – like your empty bobbin.
I like this pattern. I made 2 more after the first one. The last will have no collar or sleeves. It’s flattering and easy to wear. The collar may be challenging for a beginner in a very drapey fabric but basting is your friend here, as well as lots of clipping. The instructions are clear and in a booklet with a pocket in back for those small pattern pieces – clever.
Rating:
Size range: 3- The size range for the Jasmine tops out at 18. With the FBA that we curvy gals need, bigger girls than me could make this successfully.
Instructions: 5
Construction: 5
Final fit: 5
Overall rating: 4.5- This is definitely a TNT for a pretty, feminine, unfussy blouse so I’d call it a great pattern.
Miss Fisher is seriously my style hero <3 I like to see some blouses up on here! Great sew, looks amazing on you <3
Oh! I really like this. I’m in my thirties and sometimes I feel like the current independent pattern designers are a little too “hipster twee” for my womanly figure. this is a great looking silhouette on a full bust; i just had to see it to believe it! I suppose I’ll need this in my queue
I forgot to mention it looks beautiful on you. I love feminine styles also but don’t want frills or to look as if I am trying to be younger than I am. This blouse is a hit. Your fit is perfection.
Wonderful review with pertinent info. Thank you for putting in your measurements for a reference. All your tips are great !
Super Cute on you!
Love, love, love this pattern!!! It is my only TnT pattern–I’ve always been too fickle to settle down. I even used it to make a wool jacket–cut it out, lined it and used hook and eyes down the front–it is one of my favorite things to wear (3/4 sleeve and nicely fitted without pulling anywhere) I cut the sleeves on the bias as well. I think that was a Threads magazine trick I adopted to cover my ham arms 🙂
Very flattering and you’ve done a wonderful job.
Very Miss Fisher. Great review too – this pattern sounds like it could be a winner all around.
Really pretty! I’ve had this pattern for awhile but have held off because of the bias issue. Isn’t bias supposed to be harder or tricky to sew?
Great blouse and lovely fabric. Great combination.
Wow, beautiful blouse!
Very informative and a great looking blouse. Some great sewing tips too, thank you 😉
Love this blouse on you. It fits you beautifully!
Your blouse is lovely. It’d be great to see your other Jasmines as well. I bought this pattern last month hoping the feminine touches could adapt well to an FBA and your make is very reassuring.
I love your blouse 🙂 I’m so impressed with your daring to do silk on the bias! Your full bust adjustment was also helpful to see. I really need to start doing that more diligently myself (I too am 5’8″ with a 41 full bust – my high bust is 37). I too am a fan of Miss Fisher and her clothes! I absolutely love her clothes so I totally resonated with your desire to do an “alike”!!
Thanks for sharing a great review. I especially like the French seam for the dart.
Thank you for this – like the others – I’ve had this pattern for years, but not gotten around to it. You have just pushed it right up the queue! Lovely!! g
Nice Job! so pretty. Like you I love her clothes on the show. Now off to find that pattern…
Nice top and great review. I have never tried the collette woven patterns. Might rethink that.
Wow, I didn’t know I wanted that blouse until I saw this. What a great looking finished product. I will definitely have to add this one to my library. Thanks for this review, it’s very motivating!
I have had this pattern in my stash for years! I don’t know why I haven’t made it yet. Thanks for the review – your finished blouse is lovely. Now, where did I put that pattern???