Pattern name: Rita by Charm Patterns
Size range: 2-16, with individual cup sizes. C cup sizes:32″-24″-36″ to 46″-38″-50″
What size did you make?
What are your measurements? 49″-43-46″ My bra size is 36K in UK brands, 36N in US brands.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? I graded up one size by adding a half inch to all the side seams and I made a half inch petite fold (standard adjustment for me) through the midriff on my first blouse. That probably took 10 minutes, at most.
What fabric did you use? Solid black is in Kona cotton. Print blouse is quilting cotton
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? It was very easy to assemble. I didn’t use the instructions but have read them since. They look fine.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape? The pattern’s fit is not at all like the envelope illustration. There is NO waist shaping. I ended up having to create a waist by pinning and trimming my muslin. As you can see by the side by side picture of my muslin and the original pattern.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? My second one is much more fitted through the waist and I have cut out 2 more.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up? Be prepared to do a lot of work to get the midriff to fit right.
Pattern Rating
Size Range: 3 (I love the cup sizing, but this is not a plus sized pattern)
Instructions: 4
Construction Process: 4
Final Fit: 5 (after altering it to fit)
Overall Rating: I’m giving this one a 4 for me because it allows me to copy a RTW top that is way out of my price range but for the general public, I’d rate it a 3. It will require grading for anyone over a RTW 18 in US sizing, is too revealing for office wear and will require at least one muslin to pin out some waist shaping.
Maria Patrice says
I find that unless the pattern is drafted to be specifically of the shoulder it will not stay put like the “off the shoulder” illustration. They do look nice on you after the worl you did on them.
Octavia Ivy says
You did a wonderful job. I just refuse to grade up a pattern and do a full bust adjustment. I would rather draft my own or hack something in my size range. There’s a great many women in America size 18 to 26. Therefore; if the pattern companies don’t want to make patterns in my range. I refuse to o buy them and grade up
Andrea says
I usually agree with you, but I also refuse to pay $100 for a peasant blouse from Pinup Girl Couture (it comes in 4X). My cheapness beat out my ethics in this case.
Eliz~ says
Very beautiful! You knocked it out of the ball park! My oldest daughter was a beautician. (she passed away at 28) I can see you’d look so cute in this at the shop!
KathleenC says
The tops look great on you… excellent job with re-shaping the pattern to match the drawing. I find the idealization of the drawing versus the real silhouette of the finished garment a frustrating issue that many pattern companies fall prey to.
And the Dr. Who fabric? Love it! Where did you get it?
Lauren says
this top had caught my eye (and imagination) but the price, re,work, and general lack of size inclusiveness make it a no for me.
Fantastic review, ya look great, keep up the good work.
Andrea says
Thank you!
Philippa says
These tops look great on you. Presumably the front darts are there but the sides need shaping? Judging from the look you’ve got, it’s worth it and I am tempted to buy anyway!
Andrea says
There are no darts in this pattern. The midriff uses princess seaming and the upper part is gathered under the bust.
KarenH says
I love your versions, you look great in them and they come close to the picture on the pattern’s sleeve which is a testimony to your sewing skills. Too revealing for the office? I don’t think so!
Andrea says
Mine show off the goods whenever I bend over. As a hairstylist, I spend a lot of time bent over a sink or with strangers’ eyes at bust level.
Alice says
Thanks very much for this review–your altered version is lovely. One of the reasons I was excited about this pattern is how fitted in the torso it looks in the pattern illustration and the line drawing. It is good to know that’s not the case in the actual pattern, although a big disappointment for me. Not sure I’ll purchase it now.
Susan M says
Andrea, I really appreciate your detailed post.
susan snow says
What size did you make, sounds like 16C and graded up? Do you find it runs true to the sizes printed on the pattern envelope. I have the L’Amour pattern, haven’t tackled it yet, but am a little confused what size to make. Do the pattern cup sizes correspond to RTW bra sizes? Or do you find them a little off? Would really love some advice here.
Andrea says
I used the 16DD and graded up one more size. No, sewing patterns rarely correspond to RTW bra sizes. Follow the size chart.
Material Excess says
I like your versions. Too revealing for work? It looks like you have plenty of coverage in your photos. Is there a problem when you lean forward?
Andrea says
Yes, the skinny elastic is not strong enough to keep the neckline tight. When I wore it to work, I was able to see myself in the mirror and I could see my entire bust when I bent over to wash a client’s hair.
Terry says
I love it! I have wanted a pattern like that.