I was tremendously delighted to test the new Upton Dress from Cashmerette. It’s a classic fit-and-flare dress for woven fabrics, specifically designed for curvy ladies.
In return for detailed comments during the testing phase, I was provided a copy of the final pattern. All opinions here are my own.
The Details:
- Cashmerette Upton Dress
- Size range: 12-28, cup sizes C-H
- Price $14 – $18 (PDF or print)
- Copyshop version included with PDF
What size did you make?
I cut a 20 e/f bodice, grading out to a 22 at the waist, and hips. I chose the v-neck front with the high back.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
49-44-53
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I made a quick muslin of the bodice, since that’s where the fitting matters most. I originally cut a 22 c/d, grading out to a 24 at the waist/hips (which was closer to my measurements) but found it a bit too loose everywhere except for the bust. So I went up a cup size and down a pattern size to the 20 e/f and 22 waist/hips).
Other than grading between sizes, I made only two other alterations.
- First, I sewed a 1-inch seam at the shoulders (since I have a petite upper bust), which eliminated a bit of gaping in the armscye and gave me a better fit through the neckline and center back. This is a standard adjustment for me on almost all patterns.
- I found during my muslin construction that I didn’t need a zipper – I could just pull the dress over my head. I’m not sure what about my body shape allows me to omit zippers, but I find that I can often get away with it. Apple/rectangle shape for the win! (To omit the zipper, I just cut the back bodice, waistband, and skirt pieces on the fold.)
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Construction was straightforward and the instructions were excellent. After coming off a string of super-easy knit patters, it was nice to dive into something a little more technical. Deep box pleats, pockets and 16 darts (4 on the front, four on the back, one set for the bodice and one set for the lining) required care and attention as well as a lot of pressing, but not so much that I couldn’t also watch Netflix at the same time.
From beginning to end (including assembling the PDF, making 2 muslin bodices, cutting the good fabric, and sewing it all up), I would estimate that it took me about 8 episodes of Murder She Wrote. (That is my standard time-tracking methodology). For subsequent versions, I expect to spend about 4-5 hours.
In future versions I will alter the order of instructions slightly to take advantage of repetitive tasks and make the process more efficient. For example, I will sew all the darts on a bodice piece while I have it under the machine, then move on to the next piece. Once I have the 4 bodice pieces (2 main, 2 lining) ready, I’ll press everything at once. These are minor changes that make more sense once you’ve tested the fit and feel of the pattern, so nothing I would recommend you change for your first go.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
Oh my goodness, I *really* like this dress. Here’s a rundown on fit:
- The bodice fits like a dream – snug but not constricting. The darts were perfectly positioned. While I’m used to doing bust and waist darts, I didn’t have as much experience with shoulder darts (in the back). I’m a convert! I’m also a fan of the way that the neckline is wider than normal, but still easily covers my bra straps. Showing more clavicle helps balance my proportions, and the wide straps help it feel more modest than a more shoulder-baring version would.
- The waistband hits exactly at my natural waist, creating a nice silhouette that makes me appear curvier than I actually am. The waistband also provides a bit of structural support when I’m sitting. (I sometimes find that patterns without a separate waistband tend to creep up over my belly when I’m seated). I don’t know why, but this waistband seems to keep everything in its proper place.
- The skirt is deliciously full and swooshy – I feel like a sexy housewife every time I put it on. I used a quilting cotton from Joann and lined the skirt (the tester version was fully lined, whereas the final version only has a lined bodice) so my dress has a lot of structure and is a little more poufy than most other people’s will be. It hits me right at the bottom of my knees, which is my preferred skirt length. And it has POCKETS. Enough said.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I already have plans for 6 more Upton dresses:
- An emerald green shantung silk version for a wedding I’m attending later this month. I will make an exact duplicate of the version featured here – no changes.
- A striped green double gauze version, with a v-neck front and back. Because of the stripes, I’ll do a simple gathered skirt on this one.
- A navy blue double gauze version, with a scoop neck and high back. Because I didn’t want to break up the pattern on the fabric, I’ve created a half-circle skirt to attach to the waistband.
- A black rayon version, with a scooped neck, v-back, and gored skirt. I think it will be the perfect little black dress for the summer.
- A denim version, made with a shirt-weight denim I picked up in the LA Fashion District last month. I haven’t decided if I want to make the pleated or the gored skirt option – both seem like good choices!
- A stretch sateen version, with a more fitted skirt that I’m going to frankenpattern. I have a feeling that I can attach the bottom of the Itch to Stitch Sirena Dress to the top of the Upton Dress for a sleek silhouette. A dress with less flounce will be a welcome addition to my business attire wardrobe and if I can make it work, I will sew these up by the dozen.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
A few thoughts for my fellow curvy sewists:
- This dress is a fabric hog – at a minimum, you’re going to want 4 yards of the outer fabric (if you’re making the pleated version, View A – View B requires around 3), plus lining. Since I prefer self-lining in most cases, I’ve started to keep an eye out for sales where 5-8 yards (depending on whether I choose to line the skirt) doesn’t break the bank.
- There is a sew-along posted on the Cashmerette website that walks through each step of the process, with in-depth help and photos. If you are new to sewing, or just prefer a little extra hand-holding, check it out!
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size Range: 5 (wide size range + cup sizes, yahoo!)
Instructions: 5
Construction Process: 4.5
Final Fit (1-5): 5
Overall Rating (1-5): 5
I should not be allowed to spin. No matter how spin-worthy the dress.
Ooh I just bought the pattern. Not being a dress kind of girl I was a bit nervous but you look so fabulous in your Upton that I feel more chilled about making my own. I was interested to read about your 1 inch shoulder seam, I have the same problem tops being too loose due to a ‘small’ upper bust. I usually grade from a smaller size to the next one up between shoulder and bust. Must try your method. Thanks for a great review
Very flattering! Love it.
I LOVE this dress. It looks fabulous on and I love the fabric. I really want to get this pattern but the amount of ease on the bodice bust has the finished dress at 1/4″ larger then the body measurement. Id there really only 1/4″ ease in the bust? I love the fit on your dress. Do you only have the little bit of ease? I know I would need to make a muslin but was just looking for a starting point.
The bodice is snug but not constricting in any way — I could easily wear it all day and be comfy. (I think the finished measurements are correct — it feels like 1/4 to 1/2 inch of ease.) I would have thought it would be uncomfortably tight based on the finished measurements, but it’s not.
I’ve seen a couple of other reviews on the internet of people who sized up because they thought they needed more ease and then found it too big. Trust the directions and make your first muslin based on your measurements — I bet it works!
Thank you so much!!
Love. Love. Love it. This dress looks amazing on you. You make me want this. That’s it. Buying the pattern. Simply amazing.
Thank you! I feel so good when I wear it!
How tall are you? I didn’t see it in your comments. It would help when trying to figure out where it hits on 5’8″ since you indicate, “It hits me right at the bottom of my knees, which is my preferred skirt length.” Thanks much.
I’m 5’6″ so you might want to add another inch to the skirt?
Great review. And carryon swirling. You look great.
Thanks! You should have seen it when my big black lab ran in and wanted to twirl with me. Chaos.
Your dress is beautiful, and you are adorable with your spinning! True story: I once fell trying to take a selfie while doing a circle skirt spin. I feel like I’ve seen this fabric somewhere before – do you mind sharing what it is?
Gina, I think Jennifer said up in her description of the sewing process that it is a quilting cotton from Joann Fabrics.
Indeed she did – thank you for pointing that out! My reading comprehension late at night is apparently very poor!
Yes — it’s from Joann. Isn’t it cute! (And despite being a pretty stiff quilting cotton, it feels absolutely “right” for this dress.)
Beautiful dress, great review! I adore that fabric and love the sandals!
Thank you! I will confess that I’m not too steady in those sandals, so swap them out for flats if I’m required to do anything more than pose for photos. 🙂
Beautiful dress! You did a fantastic job. Love the pattern and your results. Love the sandals, too!
Thank you! I was so pleased with the finished dress that I started cutting out the other versions while still wearing it straight from the machine!
I just received this pattern in a pattern swap. I look forward to trying it out now that I’ve seen your review. It looks lovely!
Have you started yet? Eager to see more Uptons in the wild!
Jennifer, what a gorgeous dress! The fabric is quite perfect and I adore some of your terminology in the review “Frankendress” is my new favourite pattern hack term and to estimate the time as 8 episodes of Murder She Wrote… brilliant, it was an entertaining and informative review so thank you. ? happy sewing everyone xxx
Why thank you! I’m now deep into season 6 of Murder She Wrote and figure I can knock out my summer wardrobe before the series finale!
Thanks for a great review of this adorable dress which suits you perfectly.
Thank you! I’ve gotten many compliments in the street, including one little old lady who said “you were made for that dress” and I got to reply that actually, the dress was made *for me, by me*. 🙂
Beautiful dress. It looks so cute on you. Love the fit. Love the fabric. You hit this out of the park!
Thanks! It’s always nerve wracking posting photos and a review — what if I’m the only one who thinks I nailed it? It’s incredibly reassuring to have people chime in that they agree it looks good!
I am glad that you are having such great fun with your new dress. I think I will try to make one like it for myself. I haven’t felt “twirlyish” in a long time. Thank you for sharing with us.
I bet if you make an Upton, you will feel twirlyish — I think some magic might come with the pattern!
You and the dress are BEAUTIFUL!!
Thank you! The response from CSC readers has made my week!
Not only is the dress wonderful, so are your shoes!
Thank you, Mary! I think I got them from DSW a few years ago. They are a bit unsteady, so I don’t wear them much, but they are perfect for this dress!
You rock this dress. I can tell from the way you took the pics that you like the way this dress makes you feel! It is a beautiful dress and you look beautiful in it! Thanks for sharing all the information. This dress pattern has some great details and is worth taking a serious look for a summer “frock”! Thanks again for sharing!
I think it might also be cute in a wool blend for winter… so many possibilities!
Your dress looks fab. I’ve muslined the body and can’t wait to sew up my first of many. I hope there will be sleeves in the future.
Because the dress is designed to be sleeveless, I don’t think Jenny could add a sleeve to it without having to completely redraft the bodice – the armscye of sleeved and sleeveless bodices are quite different.
You could put a cap sleeve on pretty easily though!
I’ve thought about trying to add a sleeve, but then I realized I actually prefer a sleeveless option with a cardigan. If you give it a go, let us know how it goes!
cute dress on you. Great job with the fit. (and that’s what it’s all about!)
The GIF tells us you like it too.
It was my first time making a GIF. I was inspired by CSC editor Meg!
In a not creepy way at all – you are my new girl crush! There isn’t a single thing that you make that I don’t want to make! I love this dress on you. I just love this dress. I’m hoping to get time to sew up a second version soon. What do you think about using the straight skirt to line the pleated one?
I can’t wait to see all you do with this pattern. g
I would probably not use the straight skirt to line the full skirt. It would be a little confining if, in fact, you had a sudden urge to “twirl”! As for all of the darts described, I would just pinch out the darts in the lining and press the pinch without actually sewing in the dart (sort of like little mini pleats). Not only does this save a little sewing time, it also gives a touch of ease in the lining without sacrificing the fit of the outer dress. All in all, great job. It’s looks very nice on you!
I did, in fact, use an A-line skirt shape to line the pleated outer fabric. I thought that the full pleats would be too bulky at the waistline, The A-line format gave me a smooth panel at the waist, but enough flair at the knee to keep it twirly.
Wow!! That dress looks great on you. I’m glad you didn’t have any problems with your new pattern too!
Thanks — I love the Cashmerette line for its approach to curvy bodies!
Spin all you want in all your (and your dress’s) gorgeousness!
I’m not going to lie — there has been a LOT of spinning in that dress!
Great dress, makes me want to make one.
Or does it make you want SIX, like me? 🙂
What a lovely dress and you look so cute in it. I’d like to make this dress but with an longer skirt. Thanks for sharing!
Ooh, yes — a maxi version of this dress would be awesome!
Just wow. You have done a beautiful job sewing that lovely dress. I’m off to Cashmerette right now to see if I can find something similar but with a bit of sleeve, otherwise I’ll get that pattern and add some myself. Thanks for the great review!
I actually really love the sleeveless version — I find it more versatile for the hot weather, and I can always throw on a cardigan if it gets chilly.
Gorgeous dress!!!!! I made one over the weekend and I’m going to need to size down too. Oh and I bet making it fully lined would be a breeze.
We should just learn to trust the pattern envelope, right? Live and learn… 🙂
You really look amazing! The dress fits you so well and the fabric is to die for!!!
Thank you — I’m so pleased with it!
The dress looks fabulous on you. The review was entertaining and informative. Thanks so much for taking the time and trouble to review this pattern. It looks like a winner to me.
Thank you — I love this dress. And pattern reviewing for CSC is always so gratifying. I love how we support each other!
Beautiful job! I am going to have together this pattern!
Do it! I can see dozens of these in my wardrobe over the next decade. So timeless!
I love the material you used, the dress looks beautiful on you. Great job on sewing the dress
Thanks! Using quilting cotton is such a crap shoot, but this one turned out brilliantly!
THAT is a beautifully fitting dress! The armholes-no bra peek, no wrinkles; the bust, smooth and sleek; the waist, no straining or pulling, the shoulders are JUST RIGHT.
Honestly I’ve not seen such a well fitting dress on a plus size pattern…Ever. Consider me converted to Cashmerette!
And your twirl is simply lovely!
THANK YOU! I am a super lazy sewist, so to hear someone praise the fit is tremendously gratifying! I think it’s more likely that Cashmerette is just a perfect fit for my body type. Wish I could take more credit!
Oh my … this reminds me of my all time favorite sundress which is now much, much too large. I think this pattern needs to be added to my shopping list.
Yes! Uptons for everyone, everywhere!
You look fantastic. What a versatile summer pattern.
I think I might try a fall/winter version in a wool blend. With the pleats, I think it could look like an awesome jumper…
I just love this dress on you! What an amazing job you did – all in this bright cheerful cotton. Gorgeous 🙂
Thank you! I’ve got a couple more quilting-cotton versions ready to pull from my stash. There is something about the stiffness of the fabric that really emphasizes the shape of the pleats — I love it!
Dang you look great in this dress and fabric is beautiful! I purchased a dress from Modcloth that I love and is so similar to this–box pleats are amazingly attractive on my body too, who knew? Off to get this pattern–thanks for the review!
Yes! I was leery about using quilting cotton, but remembered that my very favorite ModCloth dress is from a similar fabric so I decided to go for it. I’m so glad that I did!