I’ll admit, when Cashmerette came out with the Montrose Top, I skipped it. It’s a fairly simple silhouette, and I tend to reach for more complex style lines when picking out things to add to my pattern library. Recently, though, I had need for a basic woven top pattern and, faced with the prospect of hacking it from other patterns or being able to, potentially, make something straight from an envelope, I didn’t hesitate to pick up the Montrose.
The Montrose top is a body-skimming woven top with two options: View A with short sleeves, a scoop neck, and a back yolk, and View B with three-quarter-length sleeves, a jewel neckline, and a keyhole back fastened with a button. It comes in sizes 12-28 with three cup size options, C/D, E/F, and G/H. Most excitingly for me, it also introduces Cashmerette’s multiple sleeve size options, offering a standard or full bicep with between 1.25-2.25” difference between the width, depending on size.
My measurements are 43” high bust, 47.5” full bust, 37” waist, and 53” hips. I’m slightly above average height at 5’7” and I consider my body type to be a full-hipped hourglass. Cashmerette suggests starting from your full bust measurement in choosing a size, and mine puts me right between the 18 E/F and 18 G/H on top. In the past, I’ve made size 18 G/H in the Cashmerette Harrison and Webster, which was perfect in the Harrison and just a tad too loose on top in the Webster. Thus, I decided to cut an 18 E/F in the Montrose top.
My bicep is about 17.5” around, which has always meant doing full bicep adjustments. The size 18 full bicep pattern piece option has a 19” finished measurement. Honestly, I was a little bit overcome by opening up a pattern knowing I wouldn’t have to do a full bicep adjustment, which is one of my least favorite parts of preparing my patterns. Cashmerette has already shown, again and again, that they care about making products that include common pattern alterations for plus-sized bodies, and this is a very exciting addition to that mission.
The construction of the Montrose top is pretty straightforward. For View B, the version I made, there are four main body pattern pieces and two facing pieces. As the facings are simply bias-cut strips, I used some silk bias strips I already had cut. They were narrower than the pattern pieces, though, which made things a little more complicated for me and means that my neckline is about 1/8” higher than the pattern intends.
The one piece of construction I didn’t like was the method for facing the keyhole back. In the pattern piece, the keyhole is simply a slit cut at the fold, which you then stitch around in a rectangle and clip the corners, attaching the facing similarly to a continuous bound placket on a sleeve. I would have preferred a keyhole cut with a rounded bottom that you then simply stitched the bias facing around on a curve.
Additionally, in the pattern instructions, you finish the keyhole after constructing the rest of the body of the shirt. I think it would be easier to stitch while the piece is flat, and thus would suggest finishing the keyhole facing only before attaching the front and back at the shoulders.
The fit is good on me straight out of the envelope. I’ve worn my top a couple of times and feel comfortable and able to move without any binding. The main fit issue on me is the shoulder seam falling back a little, which pulls the neckline back and brings the bust darts up. This will be easily fixable with a forward shoulder adjustment of about an inch, a common fit adjustment I make.
Conclusions
The Montrose Top is basic, but having a very well-fitting basic in your library is useful! The construction is suitable for beginners, and the options available make it a useful pattern for a wide variety of bodies. I like that it’s intended for lighter weight wovens, and that the Cashmerette blog offers tutorials for working with mesh, lace, and other sheer fabrics. I’ll be making more!
Size Range (1-5) 5 – The multiple cup option in sizes 12-28 means a very good selection already, and the two sleeve widths makes the range even better
Instructions (1-5) 5 – Clear with good illustrations
Construction Process 4.5 – I’m being picky, but I don’t like the keyhole construction very much. The rest of the construction is very easy.
Final Fit (1-5) 5 – Cashmerette’s drafting is both thoughtful and consistent. The precise finished garment measurements given on the back of the envelope help assure me in choosing the right sizes.
Overall Rating (1-5) 4.875 If woven tops are part of your wardrobe, pick this pattern up!
Hey. I was wondering if you could just skip the key hole at the top? Is there enough room to get you head through without it?
If it isn’t, you could connect the sides of the opening with a small piece of wide elastic—I saw that in a Japanese pattern and thought it was a
Nice, simple alternative.
I was also wondering if you could just skip the keyhole. I have long somewhat curly hair, and it always gets stuck in the button.
Also I love the cat fabric, its amazing. Where is it from?
Where did you get this amazing fabric?!
I’d never even seen this pattern before but have wanted a go-to pattern for a woven top. When I saw this had sleeve options for full bicep I was sold. Off to buy this now! Thanks for a great review
Nice fit Shannon. I like how the top gives an illusion of a waistline. Thanks for the review. The info about needing the forward shoulder adjustment is helpful.
Nice job on the top! It fits you well and I love the kitty fabric.
Very nice! I had delayed making this, thinking I’d have to do a bicep draft. Good to know its already done! I’m on to sewing sleeveless tops now. Even in northern MN its hot! I’ll probably fiddle with this pattern in the Fall! :o)
Thank You for sharing!
It hasn’t gotten a lot of wear, I’ll be honest, because it’s pretty toasty down here in the Twin Cities, too! Thanks!
Love your version of this.
I bought this pattern because I need light weight woven summer tops, and because with my waistline varying as much as 3 inches from one day to the next I didn’t want anything too fitted. Not having to do an FBA was just gravy! I still have only made view A, because the little bit of gathering on the back piece makes it breezy and cool in the heat here.
I will use it for pattern hacking just because the fit is right. A simple pattern like this should be easy to play with. This was the first time I’ve needed a larger sleeve circumference with my changing body. It was such a relief to have it already done for me. I can’t even remember the last pattern I had that fit right out of the envelope.
Good review. Now I’m inspired to make view B.
I ended up deciding to get it for pattern hacking, too! I think it’ll be such a nice basic to build on. Thanks!
I’m so glad you mentioned the problem with the shoulder seams. Every single top I own has that problem and it makes me crazy. Is there any sort of fix you can recommend for store-bought items where this happens? These are plain tee-shaped tops which I bought at Lane Bryant, thinking going to a store that specialized in larger sizes might provide me with tops that fit well. So annoying. Thanks. 🙂
I bought my copy of Montrose for the similar reason you did – needed a woven top pattern and wanted one more purposefully designed for curvier figures. The Blank Slate Shoreline Boatneck is actually my go to for woven tops, but I wanted another possible go to option. Haven’t made it up yet but it’s on my summer plans as soon as school is out here.
Hi Shannon, you look great in your top, simple though it may be! I loved seeing that your version is slightly more fitted through the waist compared to others I’ve seen online. I guess it’s that many have sewn up version A? Anyway, I prefer less fabric around my middle, so I’m very pleased to see that the Montrose fits that bill. I suppose I’ll pick it up eventually, too, though I’ve been hoping for a sale… Cashmerette fits me so well and I love their instructions.
Greetings from Germany! Isi
I felt the same way about the Montrose (initially uninspired). As the weather jumped into the double digits (c.) I was suddenly dreaming of a simple linen top, I decided that of course Cashmerette is where I’m going to find an easy to fit. I made mine up in linen (the longer sleeve version) but I split the side dart into 2 (one I swung into the armhole and the side I lowered into a french) just because that’s always a better fit for me. I replaced the keyhole with a zipper just because I prefer them and I think it makes it look more dressy. I also added a little frill the bottom of the sleeve. So much can be done with this pattern! It could be lengthened to a tunic (which I’ll likely do next) or even a dress. A pattern that was “eh” has already jumped up to the top of tnts!
Thank you for the review.. I do have a question about the forward shoulder . Something I have struggled with to the point I gave up. Fixing the sleeve. I have followed multiple different ways of redoing the sleeve cap . None seem to work out quite right unless it is a flutter type sleeve, plenty of room. Regular sleeves bind or just feel weird . I also have about an inch to adjust. Just curious on how you do it.
Sheila,
If you are asking about a full bicep adjustment (which is different from the forward shoulder adjustment), CSC has a tutorial! http://curvysewingcollective.com/making-your-sleeves-fit/
Good luck!
Sheila, I’ve used Joi Mahon’s techniques for shoulder adjustments (not a forward shoulder specifically), and I used the techniques mentioned in her book but she also has a blog and an FB page where you can possibly pick up some tips or ask her questions. Her blog dressformsdesigns addresses sleeves and shoulder caps/ shoulder issues a few times.
I’ve been using an old vintage Simplicity pattern for my woven tops that are similar to this one, and I never copied off the pattern pieces so they’re torn or taped together and just getting too tattered to use, so this pattern would work for me. Love the kitteh fabric. I also like the idea of making a simple sheath dress or tunic from it. Great job on your lovely top, it looks wonderful on you. 🙂