My ongoing search to build a handmade wardrobe that I will wear regularly (not just quarterly when I break out the iron to press my cotton dresses) led me to Butterick 6101, a Katherine Tilton pattern. I liked that it could be done in knit or in woven, and had multiple sleeve options. Plus, it has a bit of lagenlook, which is something I love in moderation.
What follows is a story of infatuation, then doubt, then reconciliation, then enduring love. If there was a Lifetime channel for sewists, Butterick 6101 would be the Friday night made-for-TV movie.
Pattern name
Butterick 6101, View D
Size range
XS – XXL
What size did you make?
While my measurements would put me at a size XXL, I sized down for two reasons. First, I can almost always go down one size in Big 4 patterns. Plus, because I was sewing a knit, I knew I wanted a tiny bit of negative ease through the bust for nicer shaping. After looking at the finished bust measurements, I cut an L at the shoulders and bust, grading out to an XL in the waist and hips.
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Measurements: 48-44-52
Height: 5’5”
Body type: awesome
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
Aside from grading the pattern between a Large and XL, I cut and sewed this pattern exactly as directed. If I had sewn this pattern with a woven fabric, I would have done a quick muslin to determine if I needed an FBA.
I really liked the original fit of the finished top – it was relaxed, had interesting detail, and pockets. I LOVE THE POCKETS. The gray jersey had a touch of spandex, which gives it nice recovery. It was so cozy and comfortable – basically yoga pants for my upper half.
Did I immediately take a nap in this top? Yes. Yes, I did.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Overall, construction was quick and straightforward. I used my serger for everything except for hemming the sleeves and a bit of topstitching. The only tricky part of construction was the bottom hems/facing – I don’t know what happened, but things did not line up and I ended up having to kind of mash the edges together, sew them together, and hope for the best. It’s barely noticeable (especially because the knit is forgiving) but I will rethink the construction of the hems the next time around. This is an issue that other people have noted online, and there doesn’t seem to be a clear solution, so proceed carefully on that part of the process.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
After wearing the top around the house for a couple hours, I realized that it was TOO comfy. A closer inspection in the mirror, along with a very technical “grab handfuls of fabric on each side of your body” technique, I realized that I needed to slim down the silhouette. A lot.
It took me a couple of runs down the sleeve and side seams, but I eventually took off EIGHT inches at the bust, tapering down to 2 inches at the biceps and hip. The final version is still just as comfy, but looks less bulky.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I will definitely make this pattern in a woven – either a chambray or a voile. I think that both options could offer great warmer weather options, especially with the sleeveless option. I’m not sure if I’ll make another knit version – this pattern is pretty distinctive and I think one (however delightful) might be enough for now.
Still snuggly. Less tent-like. And marvelous, marvelous pockets.
One thing I do want to mention is that the neck band is a little weird in a knit fabric. In a woven, you would interface it for additional stability, but I didn’t do that in my version. As a result, it’s a little wobbly – not quite strong enough to stand up briskly on its own, just a little wavy. (I have a vague recollection that the instructions called for knit interfacing, but I didn’t have any on hand so I skipped it.) I find myself fiddling with the collar frequently, trying to get it properly situated. Next time around, I would either make the band taller (for a cowl look) or do a simple binding.
Yes, I do mess with the collar every 10 minutes.
On the other hand, I have worn this top almost every day since I’ve made it – it’s so easy to toss on with yoga pants, over a maxi dress, or over my pajamas on a cold morning (or, you know, when I take an afternoon nap). I’ve even taken to wearing it on my afternoon round to the chicken coop – those voluminous pockets can easily accommodate a dozen eggs on the short walk back to my kitchen. At this rate, I’m going to wear holes in it by the spring, so perhaps I need to make a back-up now.
My preferred look is now to wear this top with leggings, but it works over a maxi dress too!
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
There are no darts in this pattern, which make me nervous about sewing it in a woven. If you are a B/C cup, you can probably get away with the flowing shape. But if you are a D cup or bigger, you’re going to want to think seriously about whether inserting some darts (along with an FBA) are necessary to give you flattering shaping.
Pattern Rating:
Size Range (1-5): 4
Instructions (1-5): 3 (because of the hem/facing situation that most people seem to be struggling with)
Construction Process (1-5): 3 (is the hem problem about construction or instructions? I don’t know, but it was irritating so I’m taking points off in both categories)
Final Fit (1-5): 5
Overall Rating (1-5): 4
Very flattering once you altered it. Highlites your pretty face and curvy shape. Great for us Apple-shaped gals.
Much better once you altered it, you look like you’re having so much fun wearing it.
I may have pranced around the house for a couple of days… 🙂
I just got chickens, about to start laying soon. I am thrilled that I need a new top to go with my chickens!
The perfect review, full of important information and lovely insight into your personality.
Bonus: naps!!
Probably beyond my current skill level, but what the heck, I am so temped to try it.
Do it! Honestly, except for the hem facings (which probably just need more patience in reading the directions than I can be bothered with) it sews up so fast and easy!
This is so cute! I am always drawn to the tilton pattern but don’t always make them up because I don’t know how to style them! I like the leggings and the maxi skirt you’ve chosen. I’m getting some ideas! Thanks for the review on this, I REALLY like it. Like a sweatshirt but fancier!
Thanks Megan — I really like it too! I feel like it’s a fancier version of a sweatshirt that looks put together enough for errands (and lots and lots of naps — never forget the naps).
This top looks fabulous on you! I think the collar is a distinctive feature, and losing it might frame your face far less effectively. A self-facing made from the same fashion fabric might do the trick for knit versions.
I went back and looked at the photos. Totally agree — there is a very nice “face framing effect” with the collar. I will definitely interface the next version.
Body type- Awesome. Best answer ever.
Thanks! I wasn’t actually sure what they were asking for (apple, pear, spoon, I guess). But honestly, I prefer to define myself with superhero adjectives rather than fruit and kitchen utensils. 🙂
Ha ha – a Lifetime channel for sewists, love it! Great review- this is a fun pattern!
All she wanted was a pattern designed for curvy ladies. She didn’t know the pattern maker had a dark secret… Ruffled Desires, Friday night at 8pm
You know what? I love the neckline! It looks like a chiaroscuro band, it’s the perfect frame for your face! Great review, wonderful garment!
Thank you! I’m thinking I need to learn more about knit interfacing and try it on my next project…
Knit interfacing is amazing wonderful stuff – get some immediately! I use it all the time, keeping it on hand in white and black.
I love this review! Thank you. I usually make clothes too big. So I love the before and after pic.
I always lean towards “too big” as there is nothing more disappointing than pulling on that finished product and finding it too snug. 🙁
Thanks for this really useful review. I have a grey rib knit in my stash that I think would be great with this, and having seen your version I’m now inclined to order the pattern and give it a go. Do you think it’s long enough to wear with leggings? xx
You can see that in some of the early photos I am wearing leggings — and it’s definitely the “best” look in my opinion. The top is long enough to comfortably cover my bottom, hitting at low hip.
Thanks for that review. I’m really enjoying the blog and look forward to seeing the adjustments you all make to patterns. This is one that I have, but I’ve not made it yet. I use a Size 14 pattern and then do an FBA on everything because of my 38 DDD bust. This is another one of those patterns that doesn’t have the obvious places to do the FBA. Wish I could find a tutorial on sizing the shoulders down instead of sizing the bust up when the top has no darts. I’m definitely going to give this one a try soon after seeing yours. Thanks so much for sharing your experience.
I’m going to admit to something very shameful (at least, in the world of top-notch sewists): I often cut my bust size at the armpit, and then simply grade in 2 sizes through the armsyce and shoulder, rather than doing an FBA. I find that it almost always works. Just remember to adjust the sleeve piece accordingly! (The exception is button-down tops — those absolutely need an FBA to eliminate button gape.)
I am very tempted to try this but I am a GG cup and adding dart scares me a bit – perhaps I’ll be brave
I am glad to see a real curvy woman in this pattern as pattern companies tend to use stick thin models – and no one is really like that in real life – I think you look great in this top
Thanks Sharon! Try the pattern in a knit — it’s so forgiving and the original version (even sized down) has So. Much. Ease in the bust that I bet it would work for you! (And I agree with you on the darts — amending a pattern to add darts is on my list of “maybe next year” projects.)
I’ve watched on line class about how to do it – but not tried yet – keep chickening out
Yet another awesome review! I love your body type description!! I am going to borrow that! This pattern is not for me. Too much going on. I still love funky! So keep on sewing and keep on reviewing!
It does have a lot going on, doesn’t it? I don’t mind, since 99% of my clothes are “plain jane” in terms of embellishments, ruffles, pintucks, etc. I decided I needed at least one comfy item with a bit of pizzazz. 🙂 I get a ton of compliments on this top — people can’t believe that it’s handmade.
I almost always go for the more unusual styles as I can buy ordinary in the shops – it does mean that I sometimes make things that do not suit me but are always fun to make – fabric in the UK can be pricey so it is cheaper to buy than to make – but making is such fun