Good afternoon, lovelies! Today, I wanted to share a pattern that is quickly becoming a go-to, for me. At the tail end of last summer, I was hunting for a swingy top that could easily be paired with jeans. My ideal pattern was loose fitting through the hips, fairly close through the bust, with a collar, interesting details, and sleeves. Enter Butterick 5997. I’d overlooked this chic tunic pattern, on its release, but at second glance it was everything I wanted, right down to the stand collar and pintucks! How had this passed me by?
This particular pattern comes with four different views: a sleeved blouse with shoulder gathers and classic collar, a sleeveless blouse with shoulder gathers and stand collar, a sleeveless blouse with pintucks and classic collar, and–the jackpot!–a sleeved blouse with pintucks and a stand collar. View D and I were a match made in heaven. It would be gorgeous made up in so many of my fabrics, from silk to cotton. Just the sort of piece that pairs perfectly with skinny jeans, for a casual night out.
Or, as it happens, for a marauding adventure with pirates.
You see, I love everything about this pattern, except for the sleeves. The first time I made this up, I muslined the bodice, but not the sleeves. Then, I lived to regret it. Those gorgeous flowing sleeves you see in the picture above, with just the right amount of volume? They are gigantic, in the larger sizes. They poof out at an improbable angle from the shoulder, then gather back in for a voluminous, Juliet-hiding-poison-and-a-herd-of-cats sort of look. Not precisely what I envisioned. So, they came off. In my first iteration, made up in a blue silk/cotton poplin, I simply cut them down to a more manageable size. This worked well enough, but the sleeve head shape wasn’t quite right. For my most recent take, in a floral cotton lawn, I simple subbed in the other sleeve pattern from View A, then gathered that into a cuff. The result was much more in line with the pattern photos and my expectations. That little fix took this shirt from piratical to everyday staple.
As for the rest of construction, this pattern is easy, but still interesting. There are four pintucks on each side, which take a bit of patience to sew. My method involves marking them in chalk on the wrong side, pin-tracing them on the right side, then folding accurately, removing the pins, and edge-stitching the tucks down at 1/16th inch. It worked like a charm, especially with an edge-stitching foot! They’re a sweet detail that really adds to the design of this shirt, elevating it from boring to lovely. The collar is also a cinch, as it’s just a lined collar stand. A facing is used to the make the neckline, then those edges are hidden in the shoulder seam and underneath the collar. So simple!
The only other thing to watch out for on this pattern is the hemline. For View D, the hemline is quite, quite long, which gives you a true tunic length. I’m 5’8” and it hits me at mid-thigh. On my first version of this blouse, I shortened the hem by four inches overall, for a more traditional shirt look. The second time around, I kept this longer length, but added a hem split at each side seam, to give me a free range of movement. I hate tunics that don’t have a split at the hipline, because they can feel constricting, when you sit down! Since I was using fairly light, floaty fabrics for each blouse, they both have hand-rolled hems, which prevent bulk and unsightly lines around the hem.
As for fit, this pattern goes up to a size 24W, which has measurements of 46-39-48. My own measurements (46-35-47) had me blending sizes from size 20W at the shoulders, through the waist, then out to size 22W for my hips. Once I had this base size traced off, I performed a narrow shoulder adjustment and a full bust adjustment, to get my perfect fit. From my original version, I actually narrowed the shoulders even more on the pattern, because they still weren’t hitting me at my preferred spot.
Overall, I do adore this pattern. It’s really great for all those light, summery cottons that fill my stash. In Texas, this is exactly the sort of blouse that can be worn nearly year round. It pairs beautifully with skinny jeans, in the coolers months, and over leggings or tucked into skirts, in the warmer months. You can expect to see quite a few more iterations of this blouse from me, in the near future!
Size Range (1-5): 3.5 — While this pattern technically goes into “Women’s” sizes, that’s only up to a high bust of 46″. I really wish it went further up the size spectrum, because I think it’s an easy, fun silhouette that would compliment a range of figures.
Instructions (1-5): 5 — I didn’t have any trouble sewing this one up, though I’m not sure I even looked at the instructions, the second time around. It’s a really straightforward piece to sew.
Construction Process (1-5): 4 — The pintucks may cause some sewers a bit of trouble and the sleeves seriously need to be altered, but it’s an easy piece to sew up and any changes are fairly easy.
Final Fit (1-5): 3.25 — I love this blouse, but I did have to radically change the sleeves, from their drafted design. Additionally, the length may be too long for a lot of people, though that’s easily fixed. Points are being docked here for the pirate comparison.
Overall Rating (1-5): 3.75 — This blouse is fantastic, in the end, but it took some changing to get there! While I love the length and tunic style, it may not be for everyone. Unfortunately, the size range is also not as inclusive as we would prefer.
I’m hunting the site for sone nice top/ blouse patterns and this looks like the sort of thing I’m after. Finished blouse looks great on you, and I’ve taken on board what you say about sleeve fit… forwarned is forarmed (no pun intended!)
Love this blouse! It looks a little daunting – I’m not sure I’m up to snuff in my sewing skills to do this style of shirt. I may try it though because it’s so cute!
Great review and thankyou as I have this pattern in my collection. Looking forward to making it now
Mary. I was able to finish the top and I love it!! But I’d like to know if you have any advice on how I would grade up the pattern from the waist to the hips. The measurements overall fit perfectly from the shoulders to the waist. It was my hip measurements that are off. (I posted this comment earlier but it was kind of hidden within my original post.) would love your thoughts or advice on this cause I would really love to make this again.
I love tunics and I have looked at this pattern a number of times. I think I didn’t want to deal with pintuckes but it looks great now that I actually see it. I just might purchase this now.
Looks lovely on you – but mid-thigh length on someone 5ft 8″? More like a full-length nightdress on me at 5ft nothing – the yoke would probably be at my nipple level ! Proportions on Big4 patterns are bizarre.
Thanks, I have TWO copies of this, one for me, one for my sister’s version for the autumn. Love seeing different versions, but LOOVE seeing them on the CSC.
Great review. I really appreciate knowing what things you had to alter and fix to get a good result.
I too had passed this pattern by but now looking at it its exactly the sort of top I like to wear!
Thanks for all the pics and instruction, I have some beautiful silk I can see working well with this style.
Thanks for the inspiration!
These look beautiful! The sort of thing I could see myself wearing as a daily uniform in different colours and patterns 🙂 The necessary alterations make me nervous, though. Size blending, shoulder and bust adjustments, hem splits… eeek! I fear mine would end up not nearly as lovely as yours.
Love all your versions of the blouse and the Pirate comments! Are you familiar with the technique of pulling your bobbin thread out more than the length of your tuck, threading the top of the machine with thebobbin thread and then sewing from the bottom to the top of the pintuck? This eliminates the issue of what to do with the threads at the bottom of the pintuck and gives a nice finished look. Try it on some scraps if it doesn’t make sense reading my description.
I love this top on you Mary. I recently made up the In-House patterns Diana in a D cup version. Perhaps because I used a cotton jersey, the tucks from the shoulder are quite excessive, even for my F cups! Inspired by your beautiful shirt, I may just unpick the gathers at the yoke and tuck them instead – very doable. BTW the In-House Paterns Diana is a terrific wardrobe workhorse and I highly recommend it for those with curves at the top end. A link to the pattern http://inhousepatterns.com/products/diana
I like this. As others have said I would’ve liked to have seen the original sleeves!
Gorgeous! The perfect thing for covering up in summer at the lakes. I’d have loved to see the sleeves ‘pre-adjustment’, your description almost resulted in coffee all over my keyboard! Another pattern to add to my wish list for when the weather forecast doesn’t involve negatives, 5 layers of clothing and one ‘wind break’ item!!
Ohhh. Very pretty. I love it. I think I’m just going to let you test sew all the kinds of things I want to sew.
I have made up two versions of this pattern and agree — it is just lovely! I found that soft, drapey fabrics like a buttery voile work best — my muslin with a stiffer cotton made me look quite blocky.
I also had to change the sleeves — I ended up going with View A and changing them to a simple hemmed 3/4 length. I chickened out and went with the gathered fabric at the yoke, but after seeing your lovely pinstripes, I am eager to try out that version too!
Love your 2nd attempt, the length, slimmer sleeve with cuff…..a perfect make!
Thank you, Laura!
“Juliet-hiding-poison-and-a-herd-of-cats sort of look” haha this had me actually laughing out loud!
Great review. I picked up and put down this pattern so many times, but now that I’ve seen it sewn up, I’ll head back out and pick it up for sure! I love that floral print and it’s exactly the type of top I’m lacking in my wardrobe right now. I can see it in a light cotton Aztec print with jean shorts and leather sandals (and big earrings!) for the summer.
Thanks for the time you put into the reviews, the adjustments info is so helpful.
Thanks so much, Michell! I’m so glad you found the review helpful and fun. This would be gorgeous in an Aztec print, for summer. Love that idea!
Thanks for the review! This type of blouse is right in my wheelhouse; I’d wear it on the regular. Do you think the pin-tucks could be extended downward without causing probs with the swingy-ness of the garment?
Thanks so much, Pepper! I definitely think the pin tucks could be extended downward. You may want to make a small FBA, if you go that route, just to make sure there’s no pulling at the bust, but they don’t take away much width from the garment and there’s a lot of ease built in anyway.
I love this top, Mary! Its perfect for skinny jeans and looks so lovely and cool. I have a love/hate relationship with wearing long sleeves in the summer, so this looks like a melding between keeping the sun away while remaining somewhat cool.
Thanks so much, Megan! I have the exact same love/hate relationship with sleeves, which is why I love this top. They’re so light and airy that I hardly realize I’m wearing sleeves…even in Texas, in June. 😉
Love the top. I actually have this patten and started to make it but Mis-read the measurements and now it won’t fit over my hips….any suggestions without having to toss it out and starting over??
Thanks, Alesia! I definitely have suggestions. Make a hip slit at each side! Unpick the side seams up each side, over the fullest part of your hips, then check the fit. If you like where they hit, put a bar tack right there on the seam. Then finish each raw edge of your slit, fold over once, top stitch it in place up one side, across the seam line, then back down the other side. Voila! A slit that allows free and easy movement.
Man!! I didn’t even think of that! I was thinking i’d have to add some fabric …somehow! Thank you!!
Ali
Mary. I was able to finish the top and I love it!! But I’d like to know if you have any advice on how I would grade up the pattern from the waist to the hips. The measurements overall fit perfectly from the shoulders to the waist. It was my hip measurements that are off.
I love that it’s shirt style with pullover simiplicity, this is probably just the thing to replicate the oversize sweater over fluffy skirt outfits I layered up in this winter..I really like the flared sleeve pictured a lot actually.
Ditto.
Thanks, Laura! This pattern really is a total winner, with flared or cuffed sleeves. I need to make more of them, if only because I keep reaching for these two over and over again.
“Points are being docked here for the pirate comparison” I love this! It just made my day, thank you! I’m not sure this is a pattern I would have looked at before but your review certainly makes it a possibility now. Thanks
Thanks, Cathi! I’m so happy that you liked the review!