Hello, dear readers! It’s “Tops” month and I have a UFO that’s now finished!
This is a lapel blouse pattern from the Spring/Summer 2013 issue of BurdaStyle Plus magazine. I traced this blouse out and started sewing it up in December 2013 and now it’s completed. Yep, I basically threw it in a bin and forgot about it! Bad girl, I know!
This blouse has princess seams on the front and back with darts extending down into a slight peplum or skirt. The peplum has slits on the sides and features short cuffed sleeves and breast pockets. I omitted the pockets, but only ended up making this blouse sleeveless after misplacing one of the sleeves. I made this in a J Crew floral print silk/cotton voile purchased from Fabric Mart and added some 1940s/50s vintage buttons.
This was my first attempt at tracing a pattern from a magazine. I just loved this blouse and pretty much every design in this magazine, so I pressed on through tracing it even though this was before I was blessed with my specially designed lenses and I could barely see the lines on the pattern diagram. I had such an awful time tracing this pattern that I have yet to trace another. I realize that with the eyesight that I have now that it wouldn’t be as much of a feat, but I think the process has soured me on magazine patterns, even though I have many and love them so.
Pattern Name: BurdaStyle Plus 1/2013 420 Lapel Blouse
Size Range: 44-54
What size did you make? 52/54
What are your….
- Measurements: 48-41-52
- Body shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
- Height: 5’8
- Bra size: 44D
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? I omitted the sleeves and the pockets, which made the sewing process faster and easier. I made no other adjustments.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? This went together fairly easily. The instructions are limited without helpful diagrams, so it takes some previous sewing knowledge to make this.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your body shape? I think it fits fine, although I prefer a little looser fit in button front shirts. I think the shape is great for me.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make? I probably will make it again as I have it all traced out and I would like to have a sleeved version. I would use a heavier shirting than the fabric I used for this blouse, as I’m not certain this lightweight voile works as well to keep the structure of the pattern. I might add a very slight swayback adjustment. I may also either sew narrower seam allowances or grade this up slightly, but I think that depends on the weight of my future fabric and if the fit differs from this voile.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or tutorials that helped you sew this piece up? Take your time sewing this (although not as much as I!). If you use a lightweight fabric like I did, I’d suggest adding some heavier interfacing than I did to the button plackets.
Pattern Rating (1-5)
- Size range: 4
- Instructions: 2
- Construction process: 4
- Final fit: 4
- Overall rating: 3.5
Overall, I really like this blouse, and I’m glad I resurrected it from the catacombs and look forward to wearing it. I have few button-down blouses, so it’s most definitely something that I needed to add to my wardrobe. This is something I would wear with a cardigan and it might be a blouse that will look good with jeans.
This blouse is beautiful and you look so pretty in it! it suits you so well. I have never made a Burda pattern and never traced a pattern before – both looked so intimidating. After reading this I might just try it. Two questions: what paper do you use for tracing and does Burda patterns need seamlines added when you cut out?
Thanks, Ilna! I like using Swedish tracing paper as I like it’s sturdiness and lasting quality. Burda magazine patterns don’t have any seam allowances, you have to add them.
This is perfect!!! It fits so well and the fabric is divine. I think that Burda can be intimidating but the patterns are sooooo nice and generally well drafted that it’s worth it!
Thank you!
I love this blouse! The print is fun, and the fit is great on you!
But seriously. What is it with clothes designers and breasckets? The only time I ever see women use them is medical professionals with scrubs or lab coats.
What do you mean by breasckets, L’Anne?
I was portmanteauing– breast pockets. Though it does kinda sound like brisket…
Ah got you. I was googling it and wondering “is there some sewing feature I’m missing??”, and actually wondered if you were meaning a “power back”, which are common in nurses uniforms here.
Now that I think of it, the only time I would ever use breast pockets is when I’m wearing scrubs, or possibly in mufti at work but just for my pens. I plan on adding some to a shirt I’m making soon just to see what the appeal is!
Oh my gosh, I *LOVE* this blouse, and the fit is spot-on. Possibly one of my favorite things you’ve made! I think it would look super cute tucked into a high-waisted skirt, and probably would look good with jeans or shorts too.
Thanks! Yes, the photo in the magazine with Lana del Rey has it tucked in. Looks awesome like that! 🙂
Your blouse is so pretty.. The style looks good on you..
Thank you, Judy!
It is a lovely blouse, Tanya.
I want to say a couple of words in defense of Burda. I grew up flipping the pages of Burda World of Fashion (now Burdastyle), way before my mom let me use her sewing machine to make something of my own. So I may be just a bit biased…. 🙂
However, I heard so many complaints in the sewing community about having to trace patterns and the quality of the instructions, that I wanted to say something. The magazine Tanya used can be purchased here:
https://www.glpnews.com/EN/Crafts/BurdaPlus1.html
It comes out twice a year, I believe February (spring/summer issue) and August(fall/winter edition) and you can subscribe through the distributor (link above) or on amazon. You usually get 20+ patterns for $10 that you pay for each magazine, including shipping. As many people mention, Burda pattern fit a more feminine, curvier figure better. That doesn’t mean that you won’t have to make a few alterations, but overall patterns are designed with a curvier woman in mind, IMO. And you pay only $10 delivered to your mailbox in a plastic bag to prevent a possibility of water damage. I think it wins some brownie points already. And because it is so economical, available to those of us who cannot invest $15-25 (plus usually considerable shipping cost) into one indie pattern, you have to put some work into tracing. once you get a hang of it, it is really much easier than pasting 70 pages together when you buy a PDF pattern online, not to mention easier to store and friendlier to environment.
Also a while ago, someone brought a good point that there are no advanced sewing books out there. Every sewing book seems to start with the tools you need and how rouse them to complete simple sewing projects. And I agree, every book I buy, I have to skip a few chapters. I think there are plenty of those books and if someone is really determined to learn how to insert a zipper or hem a skirt, there are plenty of published resources for that, not to mention generous contribution of our fellow bloggers. Burda is that resource for advanced sewists. I am not trying to offend anyone, and I am so delighted to see that sewing as a skill is being reincarnated, with young people wanting to learn and indie pattern companies popping here and there. However, I want to say Lets keep Burda affordable and use other resources for the steps that are involved in making a blouse or a pair of pants. This magazine is a unique resource. Patterns are often ahead of the curve in the fashion industry and the silhouettes for plus sizes beat anything I have seen produced by the big 4 in the recent years.
Once again, I hope this comment won’t hurt anyone’s feelings. Things come in different packages and if they seem different at first, they have a lot to offer for the price.
I don’t think you have to be worried about offending anyone with your comment (except I don’t agree that curvier = more feminine). I personally trace all my patterns (paper or PDF) so it’s not such a big deal. It’s just different to what a lot of people started off with.
The most recent Burda pattern I sewed with had some serious issues but I certainly wouldn’t take it out on the entire brand. It’s a shame that people are complaining about it but I guess it’s the same as people complaining about taping PDF’s, or waiting for shipping – sometimes we just like to complain!
Thank you!
I don’t think anyone is offended. It’s just that a lot of us aren’t familiar with the Burda magazines, especially before they published their US version. That issue above is actually the first one that I got. I love every pattern in that issue! I, for one, do not mind tracing, but when you have an eye disease with terrible eyesight, it can be difficult to follow lines and trace them, which is why I had a hard time with it. I do have special lenses now so I can see nearly 20/20 and probably will trace another burda pattern again, but back then I had squint very hard to differentiate between lines and it was a headache. I should think about subscribing as I always pick them in up in fabric stores and they charge more than that subscription service.
I love your blouse. It looks fabulous on you. Love the shape of it.
Thanks, Beajay!
This is lovely on you. The colors in the blouse are gorgeous with your coloring 🙂
Thank you, Meigan!
I love this on you – I think I’m a similar shape to you and I really fancy one for myself now! I haven’t been able to find it on the Burdastyle website though, if anybody finds a link it would be brilliant if you could share it in the comments.
Thanks! I actually looked both on the BurdaStyle website and the Simplicity/Burda patterns prior to writing this post and could not find it, so I think it has only been released in the magazine thus far. You can usually pick up back issues of BurdaStyle on Amazon and eBay. I’ve also seen back issues at fabric stores that carry this magazine.
Great job. You look fabulous! Love it!
Thank you, Barbara!
This looks really cute on you! Burda patterns always seem so intimidating to me.
Thanks! They always seemed like that to me, too, until I sewed my first one. The printed one’s do have better instructions than the magazine or pdf versions, so I try to find those first.
You did a fabulous job! I think the style is perfect for your curves as you have the fit about perfect. I’ve done a fair amount of Burda Magazine patterns and find they are graded well in the plus sizes. It’s nice to see patterns that are fitted in this size range that really work. I’d say you have found a basic pattern you can use over and over again. Congrats on the finish!
Thanks! I love all of the burdas I’ve made so far and do think they fit better than the big 4, for the most part. I also don’t have to grade them up, so that’s even better!
Really well fitting blouse and great fabric motif for you. Hard to tell if there is a way to make a swayback alteration…is there a waist seam in the back? The shoulders fit well and the princess seams adjust to so many sizes and shapes…your best ever!
Thank you! 🙂 Yes, it has a waistband and I think it does wrinkle just a little bit back there, although it’s hard to tell as this fabric wrinkles a lot.
I love the prints and the shirt. I’ve got some Burda US magazines hanging out on my desk, all earmarked to patterns I want to use. I haven’t tried my hand at tracing them yet either, though I did snag some medical office paper for that very purpose. I’m stunned though, I didn’t know there was a BurdaStyle Plus magazine. It will look cute with jeans – I think it also be really cute with a denim skirt 😉 and cardigan – not to…you know…give you more projects to work on 😛
Thanks, Ronda! Yes! They have a special plus issue. I believe it only comes out twice a year for the European version. I buy mine at britex in SF. This issue was actually the first one I got and sent to me from the UK during a sewing swap.