Whether or not you’re a fan of retro styling, Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book by Gretchen Hirsch is a fantastic collection for many a dress enthusiast. And while its size range is limited, the book is filled with instructions perfect for the intermediate sewer who needs a little reminder on a wide range of techniques. The patterns are, of course, an added plus!
Size range – 2 (32/24/26) to 16 (46/38/50)
What size did you make? – 10 at the shoulders to 14 at bust/waist/hip
What are your measurements, height, and body type? – 42 chest/37 waist/48 hip. I’m 5 foot 6 inches tall and I consider myself a pear, but with a tummy.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? I reduced the width of the darts in the front and increased the dart width in the back to accommodate my larger tummy. Then I removed/added the same amount to the back/front of the skirt. Also added 3 inches to the puff sleeve and puff sleeve binding plus re-drew the sleeve cap. My upper arm width is usually several sizes larger than the pattern piece, so this is a really normal adjustment to me. The dart/skirt adjustments took about an hour, with repeat fittings and seam ripping. The sleeves took longer because of the sleeve cap fit issue. I also did a sway back adjustment in the back bodice only. That took a few moments.
However, I did not have to do a FBA or lower the bust point, so that is a major win! I have a size 36G bust and usually have to FBA everything. One look at the size of the darts and I thought it might be likely I could get by without doing a FBA. Seriously unheard of in any other woven pattern I’ve tried! I also didn’t have any neckline or back of the neck gaping like I have with all other woven patterns. So, using Gertie’s basic bodice reduced the number of adjustments I had to make by 50%.
What was the construction process like and did the instructions make sense to you? If you’ve made a basic dress pattern before, then, yes, it goes together very smoothly. The difficulty with using this book is that you have to flip back to another chapter to reference, say, how to insert a zipper. Sometimes the page number is referenced in the dress instructions, but often it is not. There are some illustrations which are slightly helpful, but not always as clear as I’d like.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the designs worked well for your particular body type? Yes. I really like the pattern’s fit. That is the #1 reason I wrote up this review. I’ve been on the search for something that would contain patterns for lots of basic styles I could modify and then use again and again. This book has it is spades. Round, v-neck, boatneck, sleeveless, and surplice and princess seam bodices, plus facings for all. It also has a-line, peplum, pleated, box pleated circle, pencil, side pleated, and 3/4 circle skirt patterns. Right there is everything I need to make a pretty extensive wardrobe. And while the dresses are all styled to be retro, you could really transform them for a very modern look too. They patterns do follow the fitted waist style. I made it work with my stomach, but I could see how it wouldn’t work if you don’t have as much waist definition.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes would you make? Yes! I’ve only tried one bodice, skirt, and sleeve so far. I’m excited to tackle the princess seam pattern because two of my favorite looks in the book (Blue Floral “Sailor” Dress and Cranberry Wool Dress) use those pieces. When I use the v-neck and pleated skirt pattern pieces in the future, the only thing I’ll change is to add an additional pleat or two to the front piece. There is supposed to be a break in the pleats there, but because I added width the break in pleats is larger than I’d like.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources that helped you sew this piece up? My advice would be to make a muslin. Because everything is a classic shape, it is well worth the time taken to get the fit right the first time. And this book didn’t need any more resources. It takes a bit of flipping around to find things, but all the explanations are right there. Hemming techniques, inserting zippers, using boning, moving darts, etc. Lots and lots of information on using vintage sewing techniques, too, should you feel up to it.
Pattern Rating:
Size Range – 3 Obviously, it doesn’t go as high as other designer’s patterns, but these patterns feature a curvy fit.
Instructions – 4 One point off for having to flip around.
Construction process – 5 Smooth sailing, notches line up and piece fit together smoothly
Final Fit – 5 Super happy!
Overall rating – 4.25 Mostly because of the lack of size range
I found this book to be well worth the price* for what you get. The instructional chapters looked legit in their methods and the amount of pattern pieces that come with it is fantastic. I’m really looking forward to tackling more of the designs soon!
* I purchased this book from my local book store with my own hard earned cash. I don’t know Gertie and have never used her patterns before. So, these are definitely my own opinions.
You look really preteen the dress!
I have a tummy too but I think I’ll give this book a go.
Thanks.
That’s pretty not preteen!!!!
Ha! I definitely haven’t been called a preteen in a while 🙂 Thank you!
Your dress looks lovely and the fit looks superb! Thank you for the review. I’ve never made any of Gertie’s patterns yet so I appreciate your comments. I’m thinking I might buy this for myself and maybe my best friend who absolutely loves vintage dresses. Thanks again!
Thank you Linda! The book certainly provides a lot of eye candy for the vintage lover!
Lovely review Jessica. I bought this book when it came out, being a fan of modern vintage clothing, although the mixed reviews have left me wary. Your well explained yet concise review has put my mind at ease. I look forward to trying these soon. Thanks again.
Thank you Nadean. I hope you find success with the patterns!
Lovely dress, thanks for reviewing!
I was wondering how the drafting is in this book, I used a previous Gertie book and although I really enjoyed reading it, I found drafting errors and eventually gave up using the patterns!
Hi! I have heard some issues with the midriff piece unfortunately. So sounds like the book is not as error free as I’d hope. And there seems to be no way to get errata for it? But thankfully the pieces I most wanted to use were free of issues. And thank you!
This is lovely, Jessica! I’d be interested in hearing more about this adjustment: “reduced the width of the darts in the front and increased the dart width in the back to accommodate my larger tummy” –is the overall waist measurement the same, but you have more of it in the front than in the back instead? It seems like something that could work well for me too, as I most definitely do not have a flat stomach and I often think readymade clothes could use a significant swayback/wide lower back adjustment.
Hi Katherine,
So my goal was to have the side seams straight up and down. With the darts as drafted, the side seam pulled to the front because I needed more space there. So I made the waist darts smaller in the front and larger in the back until my side seam reached vertical. Does that make sense? Waist measurement stayed the same the whole time. I don’t know is this is the correct way to do things, but worked for me!
That makes complete sense, I wish more fitting tutorials would state their goals like that as clearly. I can picture stuff in 3-D well enough to understand what might have to change, if I know what I’m supposed to be aiming for. Nice work figuring that out, I’ll have to give it a shot myself next time!
Great dress! I have just made my first dress from this book. I am rectangular/apple with my biggest measurement being my high hip. I used size 14 at shoulders, graded to 16 at underarm and well beyond that at the waist using the standard bodice and the side pleated skirt. I am really pleased with how it looks. Fuller skirts hide the tummy and high hip shelf bulge in my opinion. Personally I think the common style advice to avoid a waist seam on an apple needs a rethink.. Anyway I agree with your review – great book!
Poppy, that sounds like a great dress! So glad you also had success. I’ve read mixed reviews but as with any pattern what is bad for some is great for others. Congrats!
Hi Jessica! You’ve done a great job on this dress. I really like your honest review of Gertie’s newest book. I like this book quite a bit. I think the first book was really great! I still haven’t made anything yet, but I’m looking forward to it soon. Thank you so much for this great review and your processes! Kathy from Arizona
Hi Kathy! Hopefully you’ll be able to crack into her first book soon. It also looked to have a few great pieces. And thank you!
Nice review and very nice dress! Enjoy exploring other variations. Looking at the size range, the pattern sizes are generous. More people could fit in her styles in a smaller size number than the big four size range.
Can’t wait to see your next one!
Yes, I did think the range was just slightly better than I expected size wise. I’m looking forward to tackling the princess seam bodice next time I’m in a pattern tweaking mood.
Thanks for a great review – ordered the book base on this recommendation. Excited – you look adorable in that dress – good job!!
Thank you Diane! I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.
The dress looks fabulous on you, definitely a winner. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do from the patterns next.
Yay! Thank you Karen!
Your dress is very well done!
Thank you Roslyn!
Thank you for posting this review…I’ve been eyeing Gertie’s book online at amazon and wondering…but when I read your review and see what you’ve made…well I guess I’m going to have to get a copy! Brilliant fit and this dress looks just perfect on you 🙂
Thank you Kathleen! It took a bit of tweaking, but I’m glad I stuck with it. Hope you have success too if you purchase the book.
That dress looks fabulous on you and the fit is perfect. I actually like your dress better than the book. The neckline looks a lot more smoothly fitted too. Can’t wait to see what you do next!
Thank you Annette! I usually have too much room in the neckline so this was a nice change of pace.
Love your dress! The perfect v-neck!
Thanks Meg. I agree! Super pleased with the v-neck.