Hi everyone and welcome to a new series here on the CSC!
Inspired by a comment by Amber PB on Rosie’s great post on Plus Size Peculiarities, we’re going to be featuring curvy sewists talking about their figure, what adjustments they make, and which garments they enjoy making and wearing. We hope that it will be helpful for everyone to get inspired from women with similar proportions!
Do you want to contribute? Email us at mail@curvysewingcollective.com with details about your figure, and a few recent photos, and we will pick a diverse selection.
So I’m going to kick us off today by talking about how I sew for my curves!
My figure
– I have never successfully categorized myself as a fruit varietal, but I’m definitely top heavy, with broad shoulders and a big bust, a not-flat tummy, a flat bum, and slimmer arms, hips, thighs and legs proportionately to the rest of me.
A rare face-on, barefoot, spandex-wearing photo so you can see what I look like under all those dresses 🙂
– My measurements are:
- Height: 5’6″
- Bra size: 36HH
- High Bust: 44″
- Bust: 48″
- Waist: varies from 38 – 42″ depending on time of the month, year, whether it’s raining outside, what side of the bed I got out on today etc.
- Hip: 48″
– I am low of bust and high of waist: there’s only 3 inches between the bottom of my bra and my waist
– In stores, I tend to be around a 14/16, but I can easily be an 18 in jeans, and I’m not entirely sure how large my bust is, because I only wear stretchy RTW things, really. I’m going to guess a 22 or 24.
My adjustments
Typically, I start with a 20 or 22 in Big4 patterns, and an 18/20/XL in indie patterns.
- FBA all the way baby! Even cup sized patterns are much too small for my bust, so I have to do a full bust adjustment for everything I make. The good news is that it isn’t that hard, and doesn’t take me very long these days. The downside is I often have to deal with Big Honkin Darts (so I’m following Michelle’s series in detail!). I typically choose the pattern size closest to my high bust measurement (44″) and adjust from there.
- Linked to the FBA, I often have to add extra onto armscyes to cover my bra near my armpit, even after I’ve already added more width in. I’m going to try the Y-FBA soon to see if that helps.
- I think that lower necklines look much better on me (I look like I am all boob if I wear a turtleneck or crewneck!), so I very often scoop out high necklines – I simply mark where I want it to end and use a French curve ruler to draw the new line on. Sometimes, I copy it from a top I already like.
- My waist is often an inch or two bigger than the size that fits me elsewhere, so I do a full waist adjustment on fitted skirts, trousers and jeans.
- My thighs are slimmer proportionately, so I have to do a thin thighs adjustment when making jeans and pants.
My patterns
Here’s what I love to wear, which I think compliments my figure and makes me feel awesome. Broadly speaking, when I’m not just getting over excited about a colourful print, I’m usually thinking about balancing out my bust, and skimming over my tummy. Sewing helps tremendously on both counts!
Wrap dresses
- I’ve been wearing these for years, even before I learned to sew, so I guess it’s somewhat inevitable these are a staple of my wardrobe! I prefer to wear them with a camisole to give a deep “v” look – if they cross high enough not to be indecent they look like they’re strangling me. You can check out all my wrap dresses here. I mostly use a heavily hacked Christine Jonson pattern, but unfortunately it only goes up to a 42″ bust.
Shirt dresses
- I wasn’t convinced with this to begin with! Partly because I’d never owned a button-down shirt that fit me, so I’m not sure I’d ever really contemplated wearing a shirt dress. However now I love them, and I think of them as my summer staple. It definitely takes some work getting the FBA right to ensure there’s no gaping, but I think the nipped-in waist with a skinny belt, and slightly poofy skirt which skims over my tummy, looks awesome. I’ve made the classic M6696 – here’s my post about the one below – and also tried McCall’s M6506.
Skinny jeans
- I didn’t realize how much I wore my skinny jeans until I participated in Me Made May, and realized I was wearing them most days! My go-to pattern is the Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans, which goes up to a generous size 20. I had to do a thin thighs adjustment, but now they’re the best fitting pair of jeans I’ve ever owned. I love the internal woven pocket stay, which holds everything in. The only thing I have to do is be careful what top I pair them with: I need something slightly looser at the waist to give me clean lines and limit the spillover. Here are my first pair:
I’ll be totally honest – on that right hand picture I’m tilting my pelvis forward like crazy so it looks like I have a flat tummy! I don’t look like that usually….
Elasticated waist skirts
- Don’t laugh. I LOVE them! Styled in the wrong way I admit they can look terrible, but here’s the thing: when I sit down my waist is appreciably bigger than when I’m standing. So close fitting waistbands inevitably dig in, unless they’re enhanced with the wonder that is elastic. I think that paired with a tighter fitting top and a belt they can look awesome! My pattern of choice is M6931 which I’ve talked about before here: it has a great combo of pleats and gathers.
From left we have a lace overlay M6931, flamingo M6931, and a self-drafted maxi.
So that’s me! Do any of you have a similar top-heavy figure? What patterns do you use? I’d love to have more recommendations! Are there any other adjustments you do? And which other body shapes would you like to see in the Sewing for my Curves series?
I am very much looking forward to reading more posts in this series. I have started making my own dresses as it is virtually impossible to find any that fit me properly, and oooooh, I do love a dress!!!!! I am 5ft2in with a 34JJ bust, hourglass, sort of, figure and in separates can vary from a size 12 on the lower half to a 20 to accommodate my ladies ( always far too wide in the shoulders though) Your FBA advice has helped me finally make dresses that FIT me – overjoyed is not the word for it!!!!
Jenny, you are fabulous! There is so much great information and inspiration in your post. I am a ‘twin’ to your shape. This is the first time I have seen my own shape mirrored this perfectly. I can now solve so many of my dressing/sewing/styling problems!
So many little style tips in your photos that you don’t even mention: the necklaces that further break up the bust line; wearing the thin scarf over the polka dot sweater to create a V-line. I have never figured out why I don’t look good in simple sweaters! Fantastic use of prints. The elastic waist as a solution to the ‘sitting belly’ problem. I could go on and on. THANK YOU!!!
I love your style!
I feel like we could be body twins!
I have full thighs and wear a 38GG, but otherwise you could be my twin.
I am totally in love with that lace overlay skirt. It looks great on you. I am pear shaped with a high, somewhat (although not much, these days) smaller waist in comparison to my very round hips. I love the look of shirt dresses but worry that I would have to make many pattern changes to get the perfect fit. I’m still a novice when sewing clothes for myself – I stick to dresses that can be cinched in at the waist with a belt, sash or elastic (HELLO staple and date night dresses).
I have love all your sewing projects you have presented here and it has helped me with my own adjustment and not being stressed out. This will be a great series to read about and follow.
What a great post. I have been following your blog for quite a while now and love your style. I love what you are doing here at the Curvy Sewing Collective also. I am a classic pear shape with small bust, waist and larger hips and thighs. I love the look of your skirts but worry that all those pleats would add extra bulk to my hips. Do the pleats add a lot of bulk around the waist? Would you recommend this pattern for a pear shape also?
LOVE this post! I follow your FBA adjustment journey obsessively and have already made strides in my fitting. I wish I had more pictures to share b/c I’d love to write about or see a post on big butt, busty, no hips, sway back adjustment needing, 5’10″+ sewing. 🙂
My goodness, we have the exact same measurements! I am really new to sewing for me (I have sewn for my girls and bags/quilts/accessories for years), I have only tackled monetas for me so far, but I will take heed to the changes you make in future. I just really don’t know how to tackle the boobage area in wovens, I must get over this fear and take the plunge!
Great post! I think this will be a really cool series. I have to agree that a low V wrap dress with camisole is so incredibly flattering on a large bust. I tend to stick with lower necklines as well and avoid turtlenecks at all costs! Your blog is beautifully done, btw.
I would love to see patterns for bottom heavy and small top people. I have am a 32D, waist of 32 and hips of 43 but my thighs stick out from my hips. I am afraid to try a dress pattern because to fit my lower half, the shoulder/neck area would be way too big. In ready to wear, I wear a medium knit top and a 12 or 14 bottom but the waist is always too big.
If I looked that good I would be happy. I am a short inverted triangle and while it is not so hard to make bottoms fit, I am relatively busty and always have to make a lot of adjustments. Wrap dresses are a horror. I have yet to find one that works without showing a lot of boob. I look forward to following this series.
Good post, very interesting to read how you have tackled your particular shape. I’ll be reading every one of these posts for inspiration!
Just started sewing for myself again. I am lost, this is not the same body that I sewed for 10 years ago. I am loving this website and thank you all for being so honest. I love my body, but need to figure out what looks good on it, besides jeans and a t-shirt. So thank you again, and I would love to see more for a short pear shaped farmer girl.
Omg, we’re size twins! I’ve read your blog and admired your style but never realized we actually have such similar measurements. And now I will wear wrap dresses forever and ever.
I’m so happy to have found your blog! I’ve learned a lot with your fitting techniques. Even though I’m exactly opposite you with a smaller waist flat-ish stomach but larger rear and what’s endearingly called thunder thighs, the same skirt patterns and wrap dresses work very well for me. I’m all boob and butt with a 12 waist with a 16-18 hip and bust on a 5’3″ frame. Sewing has been a lifesaver and keeps me from looking like a trashy sausage.
Love this post! I have a very similar shape to you but scaled down a little as I am only 5’3″ I love wrap dresses but anything fit-and-flare floats my boat too. The Lady Skater by Kitschycoo fits me well with a little fba, and I usually make it in stretchy fabrics and no zip. Also biker jackets are the new love of my life, paired with jeans or leggings and a mini skirt. I use a pattern from Style Arc, the Ziggi, which fits straight from the packet when ordered by my high bust measurement, which is a blessing because the construction would make FBA challenging.
Oh, I bought the Ziggi too but I have been too scared to tackle it yet! Do you have a blog post or photos of the final result? I don’t think I’d ever wear it up so I don’t know if I’d need to FBA it or not…
Hi Jenny I don’t have a good photo – but here it is made up in fleece from my local bargain fabric shop, cost me about a tenner all told. This is a Style Arc size 14 and tbh I could have made a 12 with a teensy FBA, and my full bust is 44″. It makes up surprisingly easily despite its complex panelled construction, something I have found to be a feature of Style Arc patterns. xx
A very interesting and enjoyable post. I’m tall and pear shaped with a markedly sloping waist which leads to a lot of fitting difficulties. I’m learning to deal with these. The CSC posts will help, I’m sure.
Yayayayay!!! I’m so excited this series kick off!
Wow, you are built very similar to me! I’m 5’7″ but almost the same shape. I also love wrap dresses, and someday soon, I plan to make the 6696. I’ll be going through all your makes for ideas! This is such a great post, thank you!
Hello twin! Yes, check out what I’ve made, and I’d love to see what you make too!
What a wonderful idea for a series! Thank you thank you! My shape is a sort of tube…pretty much the same bust, belly and hip measurements, with a 3″ indent around my waist, which isn’t much to work with. What is the black wrap top you’re wearing with two of the skirts? I would sew that if I knew the pattern…it would be great on my tube shape, lol! Please don’t tell me it’e rtw, lol!
Fancy writing a post for us Nita? I think lots of women are very similarly shaped to you! The black wrap top is actually a hack of my Christine Jonson wrap dress pattern – I just chopped it off at the waist and added a 2 inch waistband to the bottom of it. Unfortunately the wool I made it from hasn’t lasted very well through the wash, but I’m considering making a few in other colours.
Oh my gosh, I am so flattered to be asked…but I’m just starting out sewing my own things and figuring it all out. Maybe when I’m a bit further advanced and can actually have some advice to give, lol!!
Two comments:
For those looking for a wrap dress that has a large size range: I recently reviewed a Butterick wrap dress that is sized up to a 68″ bust and 76″ hip. I think with a few adjustments this could be a good T&T pattern for plus-size gals.
Also, Barbara Deckert’s book on plus-size sewing deals with elastic waistbands in an ingenious and intelligent way. I hadn’t realized that thin people have waists that don’t expand much when they move, while larger people do.
+1. Jenny — I appreciated your explanation of the ‘expanding waist’ issue; like Kelly, I didn’t even realize that was a thing. I’m also short waisted and have been frustrated with fitted-waistband skirts that basically have to sit under my boobs to fit correctly … no tucking in here. I’ll have to check out the waist adjustment that you mentioned and finally sew M6931, which I purchased after reading your review a while back.
Ooh, this is great! I used to be a tiny gal with a curvy derriere, now i’m a 56 year old box shape with the same backside. My challenge is finding a way to dress this shape and make myself happy with the results (and able to work/’mom’ in them). I have found crusing the blogs and looking for people who ‘look like the me I want to be’ has been inspiring. And even though I do not look like you, you are one of my style models in that you carry yourself with joy. Thank you for that!
Thank you so much for you inspiration. I’m a mostly skirt girl myself and have wanted to try more dresses, but have been afraid of how much fabric I’d need! Love your wrap dresses and they look lovely on you. I’m just going to have to do it!
Go Team Wrap Dress!
I LOVE this post, thank you so much Jenny! You guys at CSC are such an inspiration to me!
I loved your post Jenny!! 🙂
It is so interesting how we all find different styles we love in ourselves and how by others like us we feel inspired to try new things.
Thanks for posting, M
I love this post! I have been wishing that there are more posts on body image and confidence to help some of us embrace the challenges of being curvy and sewing for our bodies. I used to be hourglass, but now that I am 43, I am becoming more of an apple shape and I have hard time adjusting to the new demands of my figure when it comes to comfort and style. I appreciate your honesty, I find it to be very true about elasticized waists. As much as I would love to make more tailored clothing, my everyday routine calls for something I don’t have to adjust all the time while I move around trying to keep up with demands of my job and being a mother. Most of my makes lately have been knits to help me live through the day comfortably.
I love all your makes so much. Thank you for your post.
I have everything you have except for a flat butt and I am only 5’3″! I love your clothes and can’t wait to sew more clothes that fit me. I have been sewing since I was a child, but due to having my own kids I haven’t had time for sewing for myself for the past 15 years! I love this site as buying RTW clothes is a pain anymore. I want to learn to make clothes that fit me better.
What a great post! Keep up the good work on all of our particulars…..and I will enjoy reading them! Curvy Girl Here-