You ask the questions, we’ll give you answers!
As Lingerie month wraps up, what do you still have questions about?
- a pattern to suit your figure?
- materials to meet your needs?
- fit issues on RTW or me-mades?
- where to learn more about a certain technique?
- anything else lingerie related!
Ask away in the comments, and we’ll do our best to give you answers. Please jump in and answer each other’s questions too – we’ve got a wealth of knowledge here in this community. Even once Lingerie month ends, there are always people ready to help in the forums.
Thanks for all the lingerie information this month. Does anyone know of patterns for things other than bras, panties, or slips? I do have a vintage kwik sew book with a teddy in it.
What kind of pattern are you looking for, more specifically?
It’s been a great month, February. So much excitement, excellent tutorials, knowledgeable seamsters, fabulous lingerie. Leggings? Best ones I owned were made for dance, including a non-tear-rip-shred crotch reinforcement (a folded scrap), wide ankle cuff (fold over-serge) and choice of waist bands (regular, yoke). Patterns: Ballet, dance, yoga (I cloned my favorite leggings in bright lycra prints-solids). Lately, ponte knits have been mentioned in conjunction with me-made leggings. (I’m curious-dubious about this after my poor experience with ponte slacks.) Available patterns? Jalie. Then Stretch & Sew (OOP, but available on ebay, etsy, etc.), Kwik Sew (see S&S) and, lately, McCall Patterns (yoga-dance leggings-top in current issue). Know Simplicity has a plus-size corset (Amazing Fit), but not sure about leggings. Fashion Patterns by Coni recently issued a pant block in sizes 1-6X: leggings, pull-on, zip-front and jeans (?). Know how well FP fit; I was a volunteer ‘body’ for a pant drafting to one’s personal measurements workshop. (Amazing what one learns about one’s structure during any specific measurements process, as Gillian and the many talented presenters this month can attest.) Pants fit perfectly, reason I added FP’s pant and skirt blocks to my basics collection.
Can’t wait to see more leggings in end-of-month Flicker collections! And Kudos to Elaine for her article on constructing tights. Check the archives–they are fashionable, nonabrasive and gorgeous!
I luuuuuuuuuve leggings! Wear then at least 4 days a week with dresses. I’m a big fan of the Cake Espresso leggings, because they get “drafted” to fit exactly!
Wondered about the Cake Espresso leggings. Thanks for the head’s up. Love both Cake’s Tiramisu and Marci Tilton’s Bandage Dress. They look smashing on curvy women, especially in strong color combination striped knits.
Noticed that tights and hosiery didn’t get a mention. Seamster Pattern’s “Rose Hip Tights” do come in plus sizes and have really good reviews.
I have reviewed the Rosehip tights on the website. At least a year ago. http://wp1094.hostgator.com/~waezmq0ac6rs/curvy-review-seamster-rose-hip-tights/ Here.
This month has been so inspiring! I purchased the Craftsy class on bra making and am looking forward to working through it. Thank you for all of the insight!
This might be a really, really stupid request, but I’d love a post on the “care and keeping” of handmade lingerie. How often should a bra be worn before it gets washed? And/or, how do you know when it’s time to wash it? One of the posts this month indicated that bras need to be washed so that the elastic recovers. To be honest, that had never occurred to me.
Also, I would love a post on how to modify a bra pattern. There are several modifications I’m interested in: turning a pattern into a wast-length longline, modifying for a front closure, etc. Is it as easy to change strap placement as it is to change out a sleeve? Can I “frankenpattern” several designs together?
And, is there a way to make lingerie and shape wear out of natural fabrics? It seems silly to focus on amazing fabrics for handmade clothing when synthetics are next to the skin.
The second craftsy class will take you through alterations! I found it really helpful.
Care and keeping is an interesting one… lots of advice for that online already, I’d think. I wash my bras with Soak (http://soakwash.com/) – I love the scents, it’s dead easy to use, and bonus for me – it’s Canadian! Some people wash every 3-5 wears, but I have to say I wash bras less often than that!
Natural fabrics… hmmm. If you find natural fabrics that are sturdy enough, let us know! I’d e interested to read about that. Personally I like lycra in my underthings, and I”m loving my polyester wicking knit bras. But then, I happily wear synthetics mixed with natural fabrics all the time, so maybe I’m not the right person to answer your question! For me, I guess, amazing fabrics don’t have to be natural, they just have to feel great and do their job.
I have been patiently waiting to learn about seamless cups, as I wear a lot of knits. Whenever I have a bra with seams in the cups, no matter where they are, they show and I don’t like that. None of the patterns that you featured had seamless cups. Do have any suggestions?
You can use any bra pattern that would work/is drafted for cut-and-sew foam. best use one you’ve made before. Buy the right size underwire for your bandsize/cup and buy matching seamless foam cups in your size. Cover them in stretchy fabric. (Toutorials on how to do that can be found on the fairy bramothers blog or just google it. alternatively consult Beverly Johnsons new craftsy class about sewing bras with lace and foam, she also covers this and it’s a great class). Then sew in the cups like you would do with cut and sew foam or a fabric bra. (Be careful to put the pattern markings on the foam)
x Sarah
Bra Maker’s Supply/Pin Up Girls patterns just released a pattern, but I haven’t seen anyone try it yet. I may give it a go at some point, next time I need some duoplex the pattern may find its way into my cart 😉
Do you all make you own slips? What fabric do you use? What fabric is good for a hot climate (Australian desert) without sticking or making bulk? What modern patterns do you use?
I have to admit I buy my slips… they last forever, so i just haven’t needed new ones in the years since I started sewing! 🙂
It’s hard finding nice ones in stores over here! ‘Practical’ lingerie doesn’t seem to be a thing anymore a less it’s spanx ?
It’s hot here, too, in the summertime. I like a nice light cotton batiste slip.
The cotton doesn’t ‘cling’ too much to your clothes? It does sound cool.
I made the Sew Chic Valentine Slip when Sew News Magazine had a sew along. http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/valentine.html
Sadly the pattern only goes up to an 18. I used a vintage poly (I think, it was a while ago) slippery fabric. Honestly it’s kind of hot and I haven’t worn the slip very often.
Crafty had a half slip tutorial by Christine Haynes. http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/09/how-to-sew-a-half-slip/
It’s on my to do list for one day. But like Gillian my store bought slips seem to last forever.
Crafty has some other lingerie tutorials or free patterns. Google and the blog links should come up. Not affiliated with them, just a happy customer.
Sounds good, I’ll check it out!
Loved all the lingerie posts! I was inspired to copy a pair of of RTW panties and went to work. I ended up with a pair that I can definitely wear! My only question is that I used fold over elastic and instead of lying flat, once sewn it became all wavy. Any idea on what I’m doing wrong? Thanks!
It might be that you’re stretching it too much as you sew it–I’ve had the same problem before. When it gets too stretched out and sewn it can’t recoil back to its original shape, creating ripples.
Or you could be that you’re not stretching it at all. I’ve found that for thin, flimsy elastic like FOE holding it taut but not stretching it works best for me. Of course, experimentation is key! And adjusting your machine’s foot pressure could also help it to not stretch out.
I agree with Regan’s advice… and for now, try blasting your wavy elastic with steam from a hot iron, and it just might pull back into shape a bit more!
I have washed and dried them, but will give them a good steaming to see if that helps. I was pulling the elastic really tight thinking that was the way to go, but I will try a lighter hand on the next pair. Thanks so much for the tips!!
Have you washed and dried them yet? That seems to resolve a lot of my issues with wavy f. o. e.
My question is about underwire lengths. It appears that the different lengths really only impact the CF side (not the armpit side). My boobs are super high on my chest (cleavage starting 2 inches above my armpit line) and as a result the RTW underwires dig into armpits no matter what angle they are at. Is it possible to get underwires that are shorter on the armpit side? Or will I have to cut them myself? And what impact on support/shaping would a shorter wire on the lateral side have?
Jennifer, though I think you are bustier than I am, we have a similar problem! My RTW underwires always stab me at the center front and sometimes under the arm. My breasts are very short from top to bottom and sit high on my chest. I really think the easiest thing to do is to cut the wires yourself, I cut all my wires so that they are custom to my pattern and my body. I typically fit a pattern with the wire it is designed for, see where it is stabby, then modify the pattern to be lower either under the arm or in the center front, or both. Actually, now that I think about it, I haven’t had to modify any patterns to be lower under the arm since I started sewing my own bras, not totally sure why, but I always shorten them at CF. Anyways, you can cut the wire on either side, and I use cloth habit’s method of cutting and use shrink wire tubing to finish the ends (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NTFHPS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage).
I would say that as a first step, you should try a variety of wires in a variety of sizes. In RTW (and in patterns, but those are more easily alterable of course), the wire size corresponds with a certain expected volume and projection. My problem is that my wire size is larger than my projection, leaving me the RTW options of tight and pinchy wire and a cup that fits, or a cup that is way too big with a wire that fits well. It could be possible that you have the opposite problem, and have been buying bras with wires that are too big to accommodate your breast volume. You might want to try smaller wires to see if those fit more comfortably around your breast and under your arm. If not, there is always the cutting option! Emerald Erin’s Etsy shop has, I think, 4 different types of wires, including one that is very low under the arm and in the center front. I just ordered this one but haven’t tried it yet because there is not yet a pattern that corresponds with this wire type, I will have to modify one of my existing patterns. I think some of hers are also a narrower fit, which might be helpful for you. She also offers fitting packs, which is nice, and is quick to respond to questions with helpful information. The other suppliers we listed all sell wires too, of course, but it can be harder to figure out what type of fit each wire they have will give.
One thing to note is that I found the maya pattern that Andie reviewed the other day very low under the arm for me (though it was high for her, I think it depends on grading for larger cup sizes), so that might be worth trying once the instructions are complete. Also, she has very good information on the pattern page about fitting an underwire.
I do find that I like my wire to come up fairly high under the armpit, but certainly not to the stabbing point! It helps shove all that armpit fluff forward and gives the appearance of a larger bust 😉 I think my wires are comfortable when sitting probably 1-2 inches below the crease of my armpit, measured when my arms are down at my sides. That is why sewing bras is so great for me, and i don’t think I will ever go back! Once I started sewing bras, I realized that I just don’t fit the RTW model of wire size = volume. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
I posted a link earlier on understanding wires. Go to that link and look at what she says about wire shapes. For herself she uses a wire that is much more U shaped. She says this shape is particularly good on a smaller frame and bigger breasts. Or if there is just something wrong with how wires fit you. So take a look and see if that might be an option.
http://www.mrsweaversfinest.com/#!Understanding-Underwires/c3g/55d38e630cf2b9f915f9fbae
Mrs weaver did an earlier post this month. Here is one of her blog posts on understanding wires and how they fit. Enjoy.
Thanks, Elaine. 😀
I’m wondering about wires. Where are the wires supposed to fit on the sides? Most of the RTW bras I have the outside of the underwire is right at the side seams of my shirts. This means I’ve never broken a wire, but it also means that when I move my arm forward, it rubs against my breast which is uncomfortable.
Where are underwires supposed to sit? And how do you measure for them without going to Canada?
Warning that this link is NSFW (has pictures of breasts to show where to measure): http://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2013/11/bra-underwires-101-a-basic-guide.html
Here print out wire guides to help you figure it out. Here is a good one: http://deofsf.com/Resources/Bra-Underwire-Charts.pdf
You can DIY a bendable wire to curve to your breast root using a piece of thicker jewelry wire or any wire you can bend but not have it move about after. A thinner coat hanger might work for this or some floral wire. You may need help during this stage.
Wire size also comes down to preference. I prefer the wire to sit a bit further back for comfort so it doesn’t hit my arm fat. We talk a lot about the “shoulds” of lingerie, but the biggest thing is whether you are comfortable or not. When you are measuring, think about your own comfort as well. Where do you want the wire to sit? Then you can determine your size using the charts.
Thanks so much! It helps me understand why I like push up bras (and I get some weird looks as an h cup…”Why do you need a push up bra?”)
Also, thanks for the NSFW tag.
No problem. Elaine also posted this link above which should also help: http://www.mrsweaversfinest.com/#!Understanding-Underwires/c3g/55d38e630cf2b9f915f9fbae
I’ll give the disclaimer that one could be considered NSFW as well.
Just a comment – I appreciate all the time and effort that has gone into these posts and it has given me the confidence to go back to the 3 bra muslins I made over a year ago – but then gave up because the pattern still wasn’t right! I am going to open the bra box that has all the stuff in it… Maybe even later on today!
That’s awesome! I’m glad you are motivated to get back to those muslins. Fitting is frustrating but so worth it! 😀