This February is Lingerie Month at the CSC! We wanted to give you a heads up in advance, in case you want to gather supplies or patterns so that you can sew yourself some lingerie in February. Sewing lingerie can be a bit intimidating to start, so we’ll be here to offer support, inspiration, and motivation!
Lingerie has become a hugely popular sewing trend over the last year or two – but it’s certainly a topic where size matters. In February, we’ll be look at patterns, materials, and techniques to help curvy girls make practical and sexy bras and underwear that fits.
I’m a firm believer that we all deserve something comfortable, functional but fun under our clothes. It’s just not fair that large cup bras suddenly quadruple in price compared to a department-store D-cup! Ladies with large band/small cup face their own challenges, too.
With larger sizes and larger bodies, it can be hard to know just what good fit looks like, and society gives out impossible goals like “no back fat” or “no bingo wings” under the arms. Add to that the quest for cute, comfy underwear that leaves no visible panty lines, and it’s enough to make a girl crazy!
Fear not: Sewing to the rescue! But then again, there are challenges. Have you ever seen a petite women blog a lacy bralet and thought, “That wouldn’t stand a change against gravity on me!”? Or admired a pattern, only to find it stops short of your size range? Maybe you prefer a wire-free bra, but can’t find materials that provide support over time?
That’s why this February, you can expect:
- pattern reviews from curvy sewists;
- advice on fitting and supporting larger busts;
- tips on materials and techniques;
- and hopefully the motivation to try lingerie sewing yourself!
Is there anything particular you’d like to learn about sewing lingerie? If you haven’t tried before, is anything holding you back? And if you are already stitching up fabulous undergarments, pop us an email if you’d like to contribute a post!
Do you have any fabric suggestions for bra cups when you don’t want to use duoplex and need similar support? I have the Bra Makers Basic pattern (name escapes me) for 46 D which fits well however duoplex is limited and there are not a lot of sources for this fabric.
Thanks
I’d like to know more about sewing supportive underwear that is comfortable. I can’t seem to find anything in RTW and I’m thinking I’m just going to have to learn to sew them.
I think this is a wonderful idea for a dedicated month. As a “slightly better than novice” sewer, and also being a large size/difficult to find size bra wearer, I am super excited to learn more about sewing lingerie. It is incredibly annoying that not only do the prices go up on larger bras, but the majority also look like something a nun might wear….no offense to any nuns reading this….god bless! I am looking forward to seeing what I have to learn from you! Great blog, btw!
I’d absolutely love to see something in more of a demi-cup shape for larger busts. My favorite silhouettes involve tops with square necklines, but I’ve had a very difficult time finding any bras that will work with them. I have plenty of bras that are great for displaying a bit of cleavage, but none that will work with my favorite summer tops and camisoles.
I would love to learn how to make the cloth habit watson bra pattern larger (in the bust and the size overall). I would also love to learn how to sew with lingerie fabrics such as stretch satins ans mesh so I can make some babydolls and merry widow lingerie pieces
Yes! Please post info on how to grade up sizes! I’m just 1 size out of many bra patterns.
That’s so frustrating! none of us are remotely expert in pattern grading, but hopefully we can provide you with some options! 🙂
This will be brilliant. I will definitely be following along with the bra-making. Xx
I feel like you’d already got these skills in the bag – but hope we inspire you anyway! 🙂
Boob shape is something I would love to read more about. It really affects the fit, which makes sense, but its very very confusing to measure shape and match it to a bra pattern to me 🙂
It is SO fascinating! We aren’t going to get into that much/at all, but I’ll see if we can slide in some links to resources that already exist on the net.
Pattern recommendations!!! I’m so ready to sew my own underwear but have no idea where to start with finding the right bra pattern, particularly with respect to sizing! Yay CSC, this is going to be great!
Michelle is working on a big round-up of bra patterns – I’m excited to read it too! 🙂
I’m very excited about sewing a pair of knickers that fit and are comfortable, that are not either boring and white or fancy lace that’s trying to floss my bum. Lay on Macduff!
Yes! My underwear drawer is testement that this is possible! 😉
How do I sign up for the lingerie sew a long?
No need to sign up – We’re not sewing a particular pattern. We’ll have a whole bunch of posts on lingerie sewing in Feb, so just watch this space! 🙂
I would love to see fitting tips for when your breasts are different sizes. One of my biggest problems with RTW bras is that if they fit one side, they don’t fit the other. It makes measuring cup size difficult, too.
I can speak to that a bit personally… Like most women, I’ve got one side larger than the rest! There are two methods: Fit the smaller size, then slash and spread the other cup by a surprisingly tiny bit to make room for the larger boob, or choose two different cup sizes. When the bra fits both sides, the breasts will look the same size visually, because one isn’t busting out! 😉
Check out Bra-Maker’s Supply website based in Hamilton, Ontario, the Shelley bra comes up into quite a large size range and I believe all of us larger sized ladies will be pleased with the results. I am thrilled with my creations from it. There are also some great coordinated kits of bra making essentials to make up this kit on-line. If you are lucky enough to get to Amsterdam check out Kantje Boord, it is almost worth the price of a plane ticket! Totally coordinated kits for bra and panties, all elastics and everything you need in one packet for the most exotic of fabric/lace concoctions. I am given to understand that you can also order online from them, but haven’t checked it out. Bra-Maker’s does a great online service. Hope this helps.
Thanks Susan! A few of us have taken bra classes at the Hamilton store (it’s local to me), so it’s definitely on our radar. Are you living in Europe? We are looking for someone there to give good recommendation on local suppliers!
Check http://www.kantjeboord-amsterdam/webwinkel or the Etsy shop of Merckwaerdigh for European suppliers!
Have you ever ordered from those suppliers, Marianne?
No I haven’t (I’m not into lingerie sewing, but that might change soon I guess ;)) but I hear nothing but good stories about them from others that do order from them.
I’m a Toronto girl who likes to travel. Always looking for sewing stuff in far flung places! Then when you wear your garment you have a nice souvenir and it brings back happy memories.
I’ll be in Amsterdam in the Spring! 😀 😀 I’m adding that to my list of place to go. Thanks!
Take the number 13 tram. I remember it was roughly 13 stops from Central Station. Out in the burbs, but a straight run. The shop is just a few doors down from the tram stop. I can’t speak dutch but the stop name sounded like “burgermeister” or something like that. Check their website for opening days and hours. You will really enjoy it! When I was there they didn’t take credit cards and I had to pay cash.
Thanks so much! I’ll be sure to bring cash. 😀
Andie, you can read more about Kantje Boord in this post: http://canalcouture.blogspot.nl/2015/05/amsterdam-sewing-meetup.html#comment-form
I wish there was an advance post on patterns so we could be prepared. I’ll have to have it mailed and have time to receive it.
There are TONS of bra-making resources online – for the bigger bust, I’d start at Bra Makers Supply or by taking the Craftsy class associated with that store! 🙂
Thanks. I misunderstood. Thought we were doing a sew along. ill be prepared 🙂
I’m a novice to sewing so lingerie has been the furthest thought from my mind to tackle. Yet, I’m curious about a plus size bralette pattern and also to see what you have in store for the month of February.
I know of one designer working on a plus -size bralette pattern, but for now, we’ll cover a few of the options out there!
That’s great to hear about the pattern. I will definitely be checking out the patterns you’ll be going over in February. Thank you!
For me the hardest part in making my first bras was the wire sizing, just a thought. They are great fun to sew.
How did you find the right size in the end? I think there are stores that will sell you a selection pack, so you can try on different sizes… so much depends on how flexible or stable the wire is, and what shape you want. It sure is an important part of a bra!
I had tried a few different sizes on my own, from charts and ect, but when I could not get the fit I wanted, I got hold of Beverly Johnson from Bra Makers and she as able to narrow it down to two sizes to try and in the end we found one that worked. And I can tell you they would have not been sizes that I would have even thought to use. Glad to have a professional on our side. I ordered both of her classes from crafty the day they were released and they are worth every penny.
Yay! Looking forward to this.
Glad to hear it!
http://bramakerssupply.com/site2009/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=7&cat=Full+Band
You all might want to go and look at the patterns at bra makers supply. She has bras from 30″- 48″ bands. AAA cup to H cup. Also nursing bras that are also a great size range. If you are a US customer be aware that our Canadian dollar has tanked against the US dollar. So for instance if your bill is $100, your Visa card will only be charged about $70 or less depending on the exchange rate at this moment. Beverly is also very good at helping you with questions if you email her. All of her bras are with wires or without. Her fabrics are all top quaility and you can buy kits or yardage. She sources her laces from Thailand and the is some fabulous stuff. I am not affiliated in any way. Just a happy customer and a happy craftsy class graduate.
Yup! A couple of us that are organising the month have taken classes in person with Beverly, and we’ll certainly include her patterns and supplies in the roundups. Good point about the conversion rate – our low Canadian dollar needs to benefit someone! 😉
Finding appropriate lace fabric for bras and stretch lac for undies has been frustrating. I’m not sure where to source them. I don’t want a kit – if i’m going to bother to make one i might as well make five and save money buying in yards and not kits. Oh… And nursing bras. A non-butchered way to adapt a bra pattern to a nursing bra would be fabulous. Pinterest nursing bra conversions are not as finished as i’d like. I like to do things right. 🙂 so looking forward to february’s content!
We don’t have anything planned about nursing bras (probably because only one of us has a kid, now that I think about it, so we don’t have much knowledge to share!) but it’s something I’ll keep an eye out for in the future!
That’s really interesting. I don’t know if it just me, but my shape is WAY different after two kids and figuring out how to adjust clothes when your front and back are so different has been a challenge and something I don’t often see addressed in the blogs I’ve read.
I have lots of friends who cut a smaller size for tops/dresses in the back, and a larger size in the front. That might work for you?
That’s something I usually do for sure! But to get back to the lingerie topic, it might be worth exploring nursing bras and control panel panties in the future. Think finding a regular bra hard and expensive….nursing bras are a whole other level.
Could you write us a nursing bra post? Submission info is at the top of the page, under Contributors.
I’d be interested in this too, actually. I’m rather angry that I spent more money on my 3 nursing bras than any other bras in my life, and they were already saggy and unsupportive before I was even done being pregnant! I’m honestly seriously tempted to chop one of them in particular up and harvest it for parts, because it’s so bloody uncomfortable to wear and won’t even keep my already-sore nipples covered. And I really don’t need that lack of support in my life right now.
I am so looking forward to this. For some reason, I’m fearless on doing a 3+ inch FBA yet, the thought of making a FBA for a bra to fit is very intimidating for some reason. I struggle to find bras that fit my cup size and also have a low enough center between breasts to not have to worry about an slip up when wearing my (numerous) appleton dresses.
I’d also love to see vintage style knickers — higher waist and with pretty details, maybe with a little tummy control, too. Higher waisted knickers will help contain the post-baby pooch that my regular ones might cover but slip down at in opportune times.
The thought of matching bras and knickers is an exciting one!
Yes! Cute panties for the post baby body would be fantastic!
I”m on this one! I’ve got a pattern roundup of plus size knicker patterns all ready to go. I love my me-made underwear!
I’m with you on all of this. Also learning how to grade cup size up on a bra pattern would be awesome.
In theory, you shouldn’t have to FBA a bra – just find out what your cup size and band size really are! There are tons of tweaks in bra fitting, but it is a fun process with pretty results!
That would be wonderful if I didn’t have to do that. However, I’ve see to encounter a bra pattern designed for the volume of breast tissue I possess. Obviously there are tweaks (or twonks — you know major tweaks) to make it fit just like with any pattern. I’m anxious to learn about them.
I’m in the large band, small cup category. Bra maker assume as you get bigger around your cup size increases. Not so, and that leaves me out in the cold. I have trouble with the wire width. The back side always cuts into me. Discussion of measuring techniques would be appreciated.
Hmmm… I wonder if you might be better of with a vertical waire, which is a tighter U-shape? Or perhaps you need a tighter band – that was the solution for me when my wire was poking in underneath!
Yes, this is my problem as well! Sewing bras has helped me out, I start with a wire that is comfortable. The corresponding cup size I measure to is typically too big, but I muslin it up and then pinch out the excess and transfer to the pattern. This way I finally get to wear a comfortable bra! I have not found much info online regarding this issue, especially as it goes with measuring, but i’ve found this method works for me through trial and error. Oh, and I always have to cut down the wire in the center front, which is easy enough to do, cloth habit has great info on that.
Looking forward to this! I’m definitely interested in the reviews for larger busts, but other types of lingerie (undies, slips, nighties, etc.) would also be great. Hard to find high quality items for larger sizes without giving up my entire paycheck!
We’re on it! Once we started planning, a month hardly seems like enough to cover the wide world of lingerie!
I’m so excited for this! 🙂
Fist bump. See you Wednesday!!!
That was my sewing resolution for this year! Learn to sew a (well fitting) bra, but I don’t know where to start with patterns. I tend to be too big in cup size or too small in band size for all the patterns I’ve found. I also need to make them nursing bras, though I’m assuming that will be a (hopefully) simple adjustment once I get going.
I hope we can help! 🙂
I’m really looking forward to lingerie month too! Especially wire-free bras (I refuse to torture myself with them) & the smaller cup/bigger band help
Excellent! I hope we’ll be able to point you in the direction of some good patterns.
Oooo, big booty adjustments for knickers (the UK name for panties) would be great! Where best to add the extra, particularly when working with knit fabrics. I always find that if I pick based on hip size, there’s a lot of booty hanging out, but if I pick based on booty size I end up taking in at the hips and it just doesn’t sit well. I’d like something that hits under the cheek, not mid way across, thus avoiding the riding-up issue… Suggestions would be great!
Also, perhaps some smaller-band-but-ridiculously-large-cup suggestions as well as the other way around?
I’ve got a review of knicker patterns written, but there aren’t any adjustments posts scheduled for underwear… but maybe if you figure it out you can write us one down the road?
Ok… I’ll give it a go and see what I can figure out. I’m thinking a trouser style mid-back cut and spread might work, but since I’ve never made trousers out of stretch lingerie fabric that might get interesting! Time to buy some cheap jersey in bulk I think… 🙂
I would like to have info on padded bras and fitting them. I am an European 80G so padded bras are hard to find. Curious to see all the posts!
We’ll be including foam in the supplies post – For sewing with foam, I’ll recommend this following post that was part of the last lingerie month I organised! 😉
https://sewcialists.wordpress.com/2015/07/10/bra-making-favourites-cut-and-sew-foam-and-fold-over-elastic/
I am so looking forward to this series. I just made Tilly and the Button’s Fifi yesterday. I hacked it to make a slip in lawn and I love it, but finding the right materials to make a something slinkier is so hard!
I”m a fan of knit slips myself – ITY make a great comfy slip! 🙂
How to enlarge a bra pattern(cup and band). Most bra patterns do not go beyond 46 or 48. Some have larger cup sizes, but I’m thinking a G cup for a 38 is smaller than a G cup for a 50 inch band. Hope this makes sense. Also, I like the retro high waist panties (the style with the center front and center back panels). Can’t find a larger pattern for these–struggling with sizing up smaller sizes.
You are absolutely right in that the cup on a 38G bra is smaller than a cup for a 50G bra. One of our upcoming posts will be a roundup of bra patterns currently available in large sizes.
I’d be interested in tips on how to sew with these types of fabrics– they seem so slippery, stretchy and SMALL!
You know, bra fabrics often end up being super sturdy and stable, to offer support.. and underwear (at least in my size!) is easy to handle! I promise, none of it is any harder than any other type of sewing. 🙂
I will happily follow any sewalongs for lingerie! But lingerie feels still very much above my skill level at present (especially bras!) One thing I have discovered however is that much of the materials used to make lingerie are useful for lots of other things too – I bought some lovely natural coloured stretch mesh that makes WONDERFUL stretch bias for around necklines and armholes 🙂
Nice! I admit I’ve raided my stretch mesh for adding ruffles to kids clothes… and maybe by the end of the month we’ll convince you that lingerie actually isn’t all that hard! 🙂
I’m still perfecting my FBA lol ! Making a bra is about on par with flying to the moon presently! But I love to see what others are doing. Some of the hand made bras I’ve seen have been really gorgeous.
If you don’t mind old photos and a rehashed blog post, I’d love to write a post. And, if I can’t get to a post there’s a German pattern company I quite like that does small band, large cups — Sewy.
What is the name of the company please?
Sewy – http://www.sewy.de/ It’s all in German. But, they did ship to the US.
Thank you so much! Google helped me with the language ? The bra pattern isn’t for me (I abhor wires) but it might be good for someone else ?
I think we’re full-up for the month already, but if you’d like to put together a post for later, the submission info is at the top under “contributors!” I haven’t heard of that pattern designer, so I’d be interested!
Would love to read your post, Renee!
Patterns, supply sources, and fitting issues explained would all be amazing!! I’ve had a Watson kit for months and am terrified to cut into it.
Don’t be terrified! The Watson is so easy to sew, and nobody I know (or read) has failed to find a good fit with it, it’s soooooo comfy! Just make sure you follow instructions for measuring yourself, there’s loads on the sew along on Amy’s website.
I”m with Liz! Jump in a try it. (There’s always more fabric in the world is things go wrong! 😉
I would love some advice on a good pattern. I’ve been scared to sew a bra as the pattern pieces are much smaller than a regular garment!
We’ve got you covered! 🙂
I am so excited about this I would love to sew my own bras (and matching pants of course) but trying to figure out how to alter patterns / buy wires for my 34Hs just confuses me. Holly
No worries! Ideally, you shouldn’t have to alter the pattern, just find a pattern that has your size, and we can help there!
Wooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!
Yeah baby!!!!
I’d love to see an interview of Jan Bones of “lingerie secrets”. She has underwear and nighties that span a pretty good range of sizes. I haven’t tried making panties, but I think I’d be more ready to try that than a bra as my first lingerie. Plus I like the idea of using my knit scraps for some matching panties. Thanks for creating a lingerie month! Looking forward to it!
my sister made me some nylon panties about 50 yrs ago. They were heavenly fitting and I think rather quick and easy to make. Can I mention that 50 yrs ago, they were prob size 5 or 6.
Panties are a great place to start! 🙂
I would like information about fabric choices. I have sewn some lingerie, but I use cotton jersey for undies and kits from Bra Makers supply for bras, so no matching sets for me.
can you post more about the bra kits?
https://www.bramakerssupply.com/site2009/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3&cat=Kits+and+Bundles
I took the Craftsy bra making class, so there was a kit designated for that, which is what I ordered.
Sure! We’ll cover some different options!