How I upgrade a pattern: Basics

Almost every time I post a finished project, I have a comment asking how I upgrade a pattern. The method I am describing below is the easiest method you can use when you start. It works very often for me but please be aware that it does not account for specific body particularities (like FBAs do for example). This method basically shows what the pattern you want to work on would be like if it went all the way up to your size, using the same pattern block.

This process consists in adding sizes around the pattern pieces. This is recommended for upgrading maximum two sizes ( I sometimes do more…), and is usable for multisize patterns where the classic one works for more, and is usable for any pattern.

Warning 1! In this post, I am making major changes : not a good thing if you refer to what is written in books. I just think that this one is easier.

Warning 2! With this method, the fit won’t be as good as with patterns that you buy at your size, but if you want that gorgeous Vogue pattern that stops at size 20, you have to try anyway…

This post has 7 main paragraphs. They have theoretical parts and examples parts. Some of the paragraphs are skippable, but I tried to be as complete as I could.

1) The pattern

2) Differences between sizes

3) Theory (skip if you do not like formulas)

4) Exceptions

5) Application: Units

6) Application: How to

7) The first times you do that…

1) The pattern

I am using a basic bust pattern. It is an easy one to use for the upgrading purposes. It has a single dart.

2) Differences between sizes

Difference		Your size
between		42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
	42	0	4	8	14	20	26	32	38
	44	4	0	4	8	14	20	26	32
The biggest	46	8	4	0	4	8	14	20	26
size of the	48	14	8	4	0	4	8	14	20
pattern	50	20	14	8	4	0	4	8	14
	52	26	20	14	8	4	0	4	8
	54	32	26	20	14	8	4	0	4
	56	38	32	26	20	14	8	4	0

This table shows how many centimeters there is between sizes. I am so sorry for not using inches in this one, as in Europe, we rarely use them, and most of the patterns in Vogue also do the metric system. The main reason is also that talking about inches confuses me… And you do not want me to be confused…

The main rule is that from size 32-34 up to size 44, you have 4cm added each time you go up.

From size 44 to 56 (and more?), you have 6cm added each time you go up.

For example, if you are a size 50, and your pattern stops at a 42, there is, on average, a difference of 20 centimeters between them at every measurement.

– My bust is a 50 (24 for Vogue), therefore, between the bust pattern and me, there are 20 cm!

– My waist is a 52 (26 for Vogue), therefore, between the bust pattern and me, there are 26 cm!

– My hips are a size 54 (28 for Vogue), therefore, between a skirt pattern pattern and me, there are 32 cm!

3) Theory (skip if you do not like formulas)

Do you add them all at the side hems?

Do you add them only in width?

Do you touch the sleeves?

Do you work around the neckline?

These are questions that I asked to myself when I started sewing. With the basic method, you add cm all around every piece. The concept is the following: to obtain the amount of cm to add on the side of a piece of pattern, you divide the total cm needed by the amount of pieces that you have, times two (for each side).

Total cm / (amount pieces x 2)

For example, around the bust, the pattern has 4 pieces: 2 fronts, 2 backs.

I need to add 20 cm around the bust.

20/(4×2)=2.5

I then need to add 2.5 cm on each side of each pattern piece to make up for the difference between sizes 42 and 50.

4) Exceptions

Of course, most of us have different sizes for different parts of our body. As written before, I am a size 50 (bust), 52 (waist) and 54 (hips). You have to take that into account when you upgrade your patterns. We will come back to this in the practical application.

5) Application: Units

You only need a pen and a ruler to draw your pattern…

On multisize patterns, you can see between the different lines (that correspond to sizes) the amount of space that is added between a 42 and a 44 for example. What we do when we upgrade a pattern is simply create another of those lines, the one that correspond to our size. To confuse the least people, I am using “units” instead of cm or inches.

A unit is the space that exists between two sizes up to size 46.

You can see it in the picture below. You have to pay attention. On the patterns that stop at a size 44 or 46, the units correspond to differences of sizes of 4cm. From 46 to 56, the differences between sizes are bigger (6cm).

…

Between 42 and 44: 1 unit

Between 44 and 46: 1 unit

Between 46 and 48: 1.5 units

Between 48 and 50: 1.5 units

…

Between 46 and 48 for example, having 1.5 units just means that the space between two lines (of different sizes) is bigger. You can check out free plus size patterns for an idea of what it looks like.

Keep in mind that one unit has different measurements all around the pattern piece…

Example 1: you are a size 46 and you want to upgrade the pattern (from 42). Then, you will need to add two units all around (1+1)

Example 2: you are a size 50 (bust and waist and hips) and you want to upgrade the pattern. Then, you will need to add five units all around (1+1+1.5+1.5).

Example 3: you are a size 50 (bust) and 52 (waist) and you want to upgrade the pattern. Then, you will need to add five units around the bust (1+1+1.5+1.5), and 6.5 (1+1+1.5+1.5+1.5) units around the waist. (More explanation below)

6) Application: How to

6.1. Start at the angles

– Measure how wide the unit is. On the picture of the fifth paragraph, it is 1 cm.

– Find out how much units you need to add. Here, I am a size 50 so I need to add 5 units.

– Figure out in which direction you need to add those units.

– Draw a point

– Do the same for every angle of your pattern piece

6.2. Keep on going

– Draw more points between the angles

– Connect the points

– Now, you must have parallel lines to those of the pattern. Your lines have to take the same directions as the other ones.

6.3. If you are not a usual hourglass (like me!)

– Before step 6.1., figure out which corners belong to your bust area, to your waist, and to your hips.

– Connect them (same 6.2.)

7) The first times you do that…

Give a bigger seam allowance for when you try your muslin or your garment, and see what went wrong or right. Like for every pattern, some fitting is always needed.

You wil find below one pattern piece that was upgraded for me.

If you have questions, or suggestions on how I could write this post better, tell me, and I will do my best!

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