Friends, it’s cold. We in the United States are getting blasted by air so icy that, even down here in Texas, all I can think about is hot cocoa and cashmere sweaters. My sewing is suffering, as a side effect. Two cotton dresses hang half-finished in my sewing room closet, because why finish pieces I can’t bear to wear outside, even with the wooliest of tights? Instead, my wandering sartorial eye has turned to cozier garments. Namely, coats. Y’all, I want to sew all the coats.
I’ve dragged out the few wools in my stash, ordered two more lengths from Mood, and have started hunting cute coat patterns like Indiana Jones pursuing a priceless artifact. I will have all the coats! Of course, the trouble is deciding which one to make first. Realistically, our southern winter is quite short. My first one will probably be my only one this year. To that end, I’ve tracked down some of my favorite trends in outerwear, paired them with comparably chic sewing patterns, and decided to share them with you. If I can’t actually have all the coats, at least I can gawk at the beautiful, cozy makes of other curvy seamstresses.
Bold Color, Classic Fit-and-Flare
Get the look with: McCall’s 7058 (up to size 22) or Style Arc’s Prue Trench (up to size 30).
Sweetly Retro
Get the look with Butterick 5824 (up to size 22) or Burda’s Long A-line Coat (up to a size 52).
Cozy Capes
Get the look with Vogue 8959 (up to size XXL) or Style Arc’s Clover Cape (up to size 30).
Statement Coat
Get the look with Burda’s Standing Collar Coat (up to size 52) , Butterick 5966 (up to size 24W) , or Style Arc’s Grace Trans-Seasonal Coat (up to a size 30).
Wrap it Up
Get the look with Vogue 1321 (up to size 22) or Style Arc’s Stella Coat (up to a size 30).
Are you planning on making a coat this year? Our dear Jenny is quickly becoming the queen of curvy outerwear, as she just finished up this gorgeous green cashmere version of Simplicity 1759, which has me in fits of coat envy. If you’ve made coats in the past, do you have any words of wisdom or TNT patterns to rave about? Today, we’re chatting about outerwear!
Carri Wright says
I would love to make a coat as my coat from last year no longer fits me. But I ams super intimidated and think I’d probably wait til I feel more confident. I do love the Mindy Project coat.
Carri Wright says
And it is cold cold here in Ohio…
Malin says
I’m nearly done with my wool coat. I just have to sew the buttonholes and do some pressing with the iron. I have drawn the pattern myself after a picture I found at Harris Tweed’s website. It has taken me quite a while because I have done lots of handstitching. But now I have to speed up because winter is around the corner here in Sweden.
Mons says
Hi Mary,
I love that wrap!!
Suzie says
I haven’t made an outer coat in many, many years and want to make one in January. My question is: do I need to make the same full bust adjustment for a coat that I would for a blouse? Any help in this is really appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
Jenny says
Hi Suzie – it really depends on the pattern, but if you have to FBA a blouse you’ll almost certainly have to do it on a coat too. The one exception is if you pick a coat with cup sizes that goes up to your bra size, in which case there’s a chance it might fit you. No such luck for me as a HH!
Hilary says
I just bought my fabric yesterday to start my coat since the pounds were not good to me last year and my old one doesn’t fit.
I’m making Simplicity 0468 in the hip length and I’m using a teal and blue plaid flannel and lining it with sherpa.
Julie says
I am loving all the beautiful capes and coats I am seeing on the blogs. I really want to make one for myself. Unfortunately here in Australia things are really starting to get hot. I am afraid I will lose my mojo for making my cape by the time the weather cools down 🙁
Denise says
Great subject! I won’t be making my coat until after the holiday gift sewing is done, but I am making hubby the V8842 parka for Christmas….just got the 30″ separating zipper yesterday.
Mary, I thought you weren’t living in Texas anymore, moving to Nebraska or something?
Dana says
Thanks for this post, Mary! I’ve had some retro wool plaid in my stash for YEARS (we’re talking 7+), and I’m thinking it might be time to sew a coat out of it. I think I bought it with a Burda pattern in mind at the time, but I can’t remember anymore. I’ve been thinking of Simplicity 1254 or Butterick 5685 for it. But now with all of these options I might have to reconsider!
I can’t wait to see what you decide to make!
Sabrina says
I hope to make a coat next year. I really love Butterick 5824. I just haven’t looked at the material to begin. I have never sewn one but that one is exciting. I have a cape pattern I could stitch up and will most likely do to help get my nerve up.
Colleen wright says
Life is funny. Last night I decided that I was going to make a wool coat from some wool in my stash from the 1990’s. I knew what I wanted it to look like and searched for a pattern and found one very close in McCalls #6442, which happen to be on sale at Hancocks this week. Then this morning I asked Gorgeous Fabrics which lining fit my needs. AND 6 hrs later here is this post. Life is funny.
Sylvie says
I’m dying over the first picture!! I might need to hunt down a similar pattern. I would not go for the cape style. I made one last year (you can see it on my blog!) and it’s adorable but not very practical. It’s difficult to do things with your arms like be seat belted and drive, carry a purse, etc. Plus your forearms are cold unless you have elbow length gloves. Just my two cents!
Ronda Bowen says
I have all I need to make a coat – I just have to do it! I really love coats, though…even though it technically doesn’t get cold enough here in California to justify having a whole closet of them…
McCallPatternCompany says
Coats are one of my most favorite things to sew. I think I’ve made about eight coats in the last 10 years! Having a lot of outerwear choices is the best way to survive a brutal winter.
Newbies should not be intimidated about making a coat. Wool is very easy to sew, for one. If you choose a coat without lapels or a lot of fitted details, you can speed right through the process. Do get the best fabric you can afford, because you want a coat that looks great year after year. One year I succumbed to the allure of some low-priced wool and I made a beautifully-sewn coat with it…but the fabric is, well, icky. So don’t be like me! —Meg Carter
LSV says
Definitely cold enough for many coats here in WV, and that statement coat is divine!!! Wow, off to look for fabric…..
The Nerdy Seamstress says
I don’t know what it is, but I want to make a wool coat too. I didn’t care for it last year because I was obsessed with sewing dresses. I think it’s because I have more experience under my belt that I want to make things other then dresses. I’m currently making a wool coat, underlined with flannel, and canvas hair. Forget that it’s not that cold here in Southern California!
I love all the coats you mentioned, especially the sweetly retro and the statement coat. I have to say though, if I had to choose a favorite, the wrap coat is divine!
michelleinsea says
Ooh, good choices! I want to Sew All The Coats this winter, too. (My second “real” winter after moving from California.) The two on my list are the Simplicity Leanne Marshall coat and the HotPatterns Deco Vibe Retro-fabulous coat. I have wool, lining, and interlining bought for both patterns. I also REALLY like the new shoulder princess seam/cup size coat pattern that Butterick just released–B6143: http://butterick.mccall.com/b6143-products-49150.php?page_id=147.
The Nerdy Seamstress says
I just bought the Simplicity pattern too! It’s just gorgeous!
Jenny says
ME THREE!!! So excited to make it
Marianne says
Me four! We could do a sewalong 🙂
Megan at TheGreenViolet says
I REALLY REALLY want to make a coat this year, but I am super intimidated! I’m concerned a big 4 pattern won’t have enough hand-holding for me and I would really like to find an indie pattern with at least some very good directions and possibly even a sewalong. Unfortunately I’m not super into the Lady Gray or Albion and not too keen to grade up sewaholic’s offerings. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Jenny says
Hi Megan – I agree that Big 4 coat instructions aren’t very good! You definitely need to follow other tutorials for your first time, although you shouldn’t worry too much – if you can make a dress you can make a coat! You can also use sewalongs for the techniques even if you’re not making that specific coat.
Last year I pulled together a big list of coat-making tutorials that helped me – hopefully this is useful:
http://www.cashmerette.com/2014/02/top-tips-for-sewing-your-first-coat.html
Megan at TheGreenViolet says
Thanks Jenny, I think I saw that last year but I’m going to check it out again!
McCallPatternCompany says
Hi Jenny! I’m passing your comment about our coat pattern instructions to that department. We have some new writers on board and the entire team is committed to enhancing and improving the customer sewing experience. Stay tuned! —Meg for McCall’s
Ramona Putnam says
I really enjoyed this post. I’ve got plans for this one by Marfy: http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-3472.html http://www.marfy.it/images/watermarked/thumbnails/1//70/3472_2.jpg
We’ll see if I follow through.
Andie L says
I’m currently making Vogue 8346 and am in the muslin stage, but researching and reading all about making a coat.
Gertie’s coat sewalongs have crazy amounts of information in them. She actually has one for that vogue pattern: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Vogue%208346
She also did one for Lady Grey: http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along
Amazing techniques there. For fit, I used your tutorial on princess seams! Go you! <3
Tanya says
If I ever get around to it I will make a coat. I have two wool coatings along with the patterns to make that have been in my sewing room for over a year now…. My mind gets swayed by all of the pretty dresses. 🙂 That and it hasn’t been cold here in CA for a few years.