Hello chaps,
Hope you are well? You may think I’m being a bit over enthusiastic with two posts in a week, but the feedback we got from the original Peculiarities post has generated lots of ideas! The editors of the CSC are often asked for pattern recommendations for beginners, and as a relative beginner, I have had some experience with patterns that definitely weren’t ideal for me, but also plenty of successes. I thought it would be good to share some top tips here, and I’m also keen to hear of your recommendations for patterns that are both beginner friendly AND curvy friendly.
First up: Knits. As a beginner its important to know that knits are your friend. You may have heard that they are tricky, or that you need a serger to use them, but it is NOT TRUE. I started sewing with knits before I had heard these rumours of tricksiness and I am so glad I did. I hadn’t developed any fear and I didn’t need to. Knits are great for beginners because you don’t really need to worry about more complicated fit techniques such as darts, or full bust or bum adjustments. Quite frankly, knits will stretch over all your curves and look great. Just make sure that you choose the size you cut out by your high bust so it fits your shoulders and you will be dandy.
A great beginner knit pattern which I have just discovered is The Sewing Rabbit’s Trapeze dress pattern which is a very on trend silhouette, and even better, is absolutely FREE. If you want to try sewing with knits but don’t want to fork out on a pattern that you aren’t sure about, give this a go.
It goes up to size XXL, but as you can see there is a LOT of ease in this pattern, so as long as it fits your shoulders it should fit pretty much everyone. It’s a very simple construction so perfect for beginners (more experienced sewists would probably find this pattern far too easy) and lets you have a good go at sewing with knits and even creating your own knit binding which looks really smart but which is really easy. Here is mine:
So give it a go: there is really nothing to lose apart from your fear!
Next up: once you have realise that knits are nothing to be scared of, you might want to try creating something a bit more figure hugging. May I introduce you to the Greenstyle Laurel...
The Laurel has been popular in the curvy blogosphere for a while now, and rightly so. It goes up to a size 3XL and comes with a variety of sleeve lengths, as well as tunic or dress options. It is a really nice style that is both comfortable and stylish that will suit pretty much everyone in one of its variations. The instructions are really clear and well written and even the most nervous beginner can make this. My only word of caution is that the fuller busted among us may need to add a bit of length to the bodice, but there are instructions of how to do this. Here are two that I made a while ago, and I am just about to cut out a summer version minus the cowl neck
However, as a beginner, you certainly do not need to be restricted to sewing with knits. Oh no! there are many great simple patterns for wovens. The ‘Big Four’ companies (McCalls, Butterick, Simplicity and Vogue) all have ‘easy ranges’ and many of these go up to the larger sizes. The Kwik Sew range from McCalls is particularly good for beginners, but all the brands offer simple patterns. A favourite of mine is the New Look (Simplicity) pattern 6217 which has some absolutely great basics that are really simple to sew. Here you have a simple woven t-shirt, a basic skirt, some very simple side zipped trousers and a very on trend kimono jacket.
All of these are great wardrobe basics and ideal for practicing your skills on. The T-shirt does not have darts so may be a bit boxy on the larger busted of us, but on the other hand, it’s a very quick and simple sew, so if you just want to give dressmaking a try and get making, it’s ideal. My friend who has never sewed any clothes before cut the top out and sewed it up in a morning. Here she is!
This pattern goes up to a 22 (UK 26), though as is the case with most of the big four patterns, there is plenty of ease in them! I have made the top and the trousers so far, and am very keen to try the kimono: if you are worried about the t-shirt fitting your bust then maybe try this: it is loose enough to avoid most fit issues, and stylish enough to make you feel very proud of yourself indeed!
Finally, I need to mention Colette patterns. I started out with sewing Colette and was so grateful for them: the company’s tag line is ‘Sewing Patterns that Teach’ and the instructions are EXCELLENT. Colette holds your hands through pretty much everything, and for a nervous beginner they are wonderful. Their older patterns only go up to a size 18, but since the release of the excellent Moneta their size range has extended to a 26 or 3XL. Colette also release excellent sewalongs for their new makes which are full of photographs and tips (usually including how to do Full Bust Adjustments) which are so helpful for beginners.
You have probably heard of Colette before, but what you may not have heard of or considered is their subscription only range: Seamwork. Like their main pattern range these are released from sizes 0-26 and have the excellent standard of instructions that they are famed for. The difference with Seamwork patterns is they are designed to be very quick and simple sews with looser silhouettes with little focus on complicated tailoring techniques so are ideal for beginners. In fact they are so simple they are designed to be sewn up in between one and three hours! As a beginner it is highly unlikely you will finish them within the suggested time limit, but you will certainly be able to finish them and be very pleased with your efforts! The pictures above from top to bottom (photographed on smaller models, but I assure you, they do cater for us curvies!) are some of my recent favourites: the brand new Mojave dress/cover up, the Bristol skirt and Astoria jumper, the Adelaide shirt dress (with poppers instead of fiddly buttons) and the Oslo cardigan. As well as subscribing to Seamwork you can buy individual patterns for $7 or $5 if you subscribe. They really are great for beginners and I would heartily recommend them.
There are quite a few other patterns which warrant an honourable mention, but this post is already rather long, so I will save them for another day and pass the baton over to you guys: what is your favourite curvy-friendly beginner pattern? Have you made any of these ones?
the easiest femine dress on the world for beginners is Kielo by Named Patterns…….2 pieces plus ties…a front and a back wth small wings centred on the hip and then wrapped about you. WOnderful shaping from cleve high bust darts and back diamond darts…works in cotton and in jersey…just google it !!!
Christine Johnson is my go-to for knit patterns. For a beginner of any size or shape, the A-line skirt would be dreamy. It’s very flattering over the hips because there are four panels, and therefore no seams on the outside of your hips. I LOVE the modification for a wide, knit waistband, available on her website. In fact, I’m wearing her A-line right now in a knee-length, French nautical navy and white stripe.
As you learn more, you can use her patterns as blocks to design whatever you want. Very flexible, which makes her patterns a good, long-term investment.
Wrap skirt, funnel neck tee, or Basewear would also be good for a beginner.
I love my Adelaide dress from Seamwork! I’ve also whipped up the Valencia clutch 2 times for gifts. I like my Moneta and I’ve worn it so much, it’s got holes, but I’ve yet to make another one. I just made my first wadder from a Simplicity shift dress. It’s just not drafted for me and it looks like a big orange traffic cone. I’ve just been kicking myself over choosing to make this over doing the work and grading up the Laurel.
I would like to add this skirt to the mix for beginning sewers.
http://seamsterpatterns.com/product/honeydew-skirt/
I have made this skirt 3 times all with great success. Once as a muslin, once in a ponte knit, and once as a jean skirt. The ponte knit skirt was made reversible buy lining with an alternate color, and I did not even hem it.
It is a lined skirt and made for stretch woven fabrics. Very quick to make and has some different options. Plain A line skirt in the front, and a little swish in the back.
I also made my first dresses in knits before I knew that knits were supposed to be dead
tricky, but I blatantly bought a serger almost immediately, convincing myself I truly needed one. The dresses I made using my sewing machine are still going strong and you don’t actually need a serger….but don’t tell my boyfriend that!
The Moneta pattern actually gave me many headaches and I threw it aside more than a couple of times. This was mainly due to me making it in cheapo super stretchy fabric.
The waistline looked like an awful 80’s dropped skirt thing and the armholes refused to behave and gaped like nobody’s business. I finally got it sorted by making adjustments to the armhole to stop gaping if I wanted a sleeveless version and trying out different types of stretchiness, plus I lowered the neckline (nothing scandalous) as on big boobs the height of that neckline (on me anyway) just seemed to make me look a bit too ‘breasty’, almost mono-boob ish… But as I now have several in rotation for my work wardrobe I have to say that it was worth it.
I don’t really see Cake patterns getting a lot of love but I have had some great results with the Tira pattern and more recently the Endeavour trousers. The Tira pattern worked very well for me but being a rather short apple shape, the waistband was far too tall/wide and had to whack a massive chunk off it. Probably being a beginner helped my like the Tira pattern as I wasn’t familiar with how normal or traditional patterns worked so didn’t realise it was different.
I’ve looked at the Laurel pattern and seen some nice makes on blogs but for me I think that empire line would just make me look pregnant and that as a plus size woman is my worst nightmare. I have zero problems with my size and shape but I do not want to look pregnant!
Have you blogged your endeavour trousers? I’ve had good success with making the shorts, and am now making the Darling version of the trousers in red linen. I am really pleased with the pattern. So far, I’ve not found any versions online apart from the photo shoot ones from Cake/Stephanie herself.
Thank you for the tips – really useful!
Love your posts Rosie! I’m one garment away fron the trapeze dress! Very promising silhouette!
Great post Rosie, and love all your pattern suggestions, many I didn’t know of
Hi. I am a new sewer and my mother will help me. I am also a size 36 w. I was wondering where I could find a pattern for a pair of pajama bottom shorts? Thank you,
the Connie Crawford patterns are good sizings, they go upto 6xl i use them a fair bit as i am a busty girl so i find her patterns fit upto a 68″ bust and the hip sizes are 10″ bigger than the bust (finished measurement). I do believe they can also be purchased through any butterick agent 🙂 hopefully this may help some 🙂
I finally made my first Moneta after the fabric post. Thanks to some fabulous replies I found a cheap knit to make a muslin and it turned out to actually be a lovely dress. I’m hoping to make one out of my original more expensive fabric soon.
The Laurel pattern looks perfect for me so that’s going on my list. Thanks for the ideas.
I absolutely LOVE your blog! I don’t do a lot of sewing for myself becasue of the fitting issues. Having read many of your posts, I may give it another try. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the great informaiton!
I’ll throw out a few more options of places to start: Pajama pants (for the true beginner)–they’re something that you can enjoy wearing, even if it isn’t perfect, and most people won’t have to worry too much about fit to get a functional pair. Additionally, I’d recommend seeing if you can find some of the older Kwik Sew patterns (per-assimililation by the BMV borg). They have great instructions and are printed on lightweight paper that’s sturdier than your typical pattern tissue.
I’d also add the free HP’s at fabric.com. The instructions aren’t always that great, but the patterns are fun and free and have a huge size range. I think they are suitable for beginners with gumption. And tape.
oh yes kwik sew patterns i have a fair few of those. very simple and usable too. And the joy of being able to use them more than once :0
OOOH! How had I not heard about that trapeze dress? Looks so cute, and you sold me with the words “experiences sewists may think it’s too easy.” I’m experienced, but I love me some easy sewing! Thanks!
I forgot to ask a question. I was wondering does anyone has Colette’s Guide to sewing knits. If so, do you find it helpful in sewing knits. Thanks again.
IMO, it’s a bit of a mixed bag. It’s got some good tips, but the photography leaves something to be desired. Having photos of a technique doesn’t do a newbie a lot of good when the photos are taken from too far of a distance to really be able to make out the details.
Thanks for this! I’ve been on the fence about the book and the last sewing book I bought is pretty much a dud so I’ve been holding off on getting others.
If you have much experience with knits and sewing them I don’t think I’d recommend it – I bought it and unfortunately don’t think I learned much (if anything) because I’d learned it already through reading online, or by trial and error.
There’s a book by Palmer/Pletsch called Knits for real people with helpful info. You may want to take a look at it.
Thanks, Brenda. I will give it a look.
I definately agree that Seamwork and Colette patterns are very beginner-friendly and I love the fact that I don’t have to draft them to a larger size. My favourites so far are the Moneta Dress and the Oslo Cardigan – I have been wearing those makes regularly, often together. I have also recently tried out the Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono Tee (free pattern) and I liked it! Will be posting it soon. Maria Denmark also seems to be catering for larger sizes – Yay!
I recently tried the Swoon Scarf neck cardigan (free) and it was great. It really sews fast and easy. A place that seems to be overlooked is So Sew Easy – I sewed the “on a roll t-shirt” and it fitted beautifully, I only needed to add length to the arms (I have long arms) and a bit of length to the body because I like long tops. The Laura Marsh a-line skirt was also easy to sew. There are a lot of free patterns to practice on and build your skills. Although I’m not a beginner, free and easy works for me!
I’ve subscribed to Seamwork Magazine a couple of months ago. It’s a good magazine and great starting point for beginners. Thanks, Rosie for writing this post. Very informative.
New Look has many inexpensive wardrobe pattern sets in knits and wovens that are versatile and great for beginners, but I’ve noticed that some of their patterns only go up to 18 and amount of ease varies from little to enormous.
I love that Greenstyle Laurel…I’m going to go check out the link. Thanks! I’ve sewn the Collette Laurel. I love your advice about using the upper bust measurement. I’ve made 3 and they are all too sloppy in the neck. I think I need to sew the smaller size for the shoulders and then grade up for the waist. It never occured to me to do that.
[Michelle’s obligatory bust-related comment]One caveat with the Greenstyle (and any dress that has an under-bust seam), to fit properly, you’ll want that waist seam to go *under* your bust, which might mean an FBA or a lengthening adjustment. I’ve seen a few Greenstyles out there where the sewist didn’t adjust for this, and it throws off the fit of the final garment.[/Michelle’s obligatory bust-related comment]
Great reminder! That dress reminds me SO much of a number of Vogue and Butterick patterns that were really popular a few years. If anyone wants the numbers let me know. I think a few of them are still in print, for anyone who prefers non-PDF patterns or an option for patterns you can get at sales.
I’ve made two Oslo cardigans and have the fabric to make at least two more. It’s a really easy pattern and different fabrics make it look like completely different garments. The only thing it lacks is patch pockets, but it’s easy enough to add them at the end.
I only started sewing last September and so far I’ve only made Colette patterns for myself, the moneta is my favourite, I have about 6 now and I can usually be found in one every few days. The seam work magazine is brilliant, I’ve been a subscriber since December when they started publishing and have only made the Bristol skirt but the patterns are gorgeous.
I’ve just cut out a cake patterns tiramisu dress, really really excited to try this dress (I have my eye on the hummingbird top and skirt too) having a mock wrap should really suit a curvy sewist
I have two Tiras – one is a not-very-stretchy knit, the other is ridiculously stretchy. The not-stretchy is fabulous and was MUCH easier to fit. The really stretchy caused me no end of fitting headaches and is sadly greatly affected by gravity. Take the time to really fit it carefully, and don’t be a slave to the waistband height either. If it’s too long for your silhouette, learn from my experience and shorten it.
The Hummingbird skirt without the tailfeather is great. If you get a good result with it, then the Cake Endeavour pants are very similar in construction, but the fitting is a little more fussy because they’re pants. (I’ve not made the tailfeather version of the skirt but I imagine it will be equally good.) I made a muslin first to get the fit — needed extra darts in the back — I added a vent to the back of the skirt and moved the zip to the side and it fits perfectly. https://www.facebook.com/measuretwicecraft/posts/672891079477734
Also, the cabarita top is worth a look. Very easy sew – the second knit item I ever made I think.
Just wanted to note that while I suppose you CAN sew a lot of knits with no FBA, it’s sometimes best to do one regardless. Or at least a cheater, if you can (grade up from shoulders to bust). I have a few knit fails in my closet from thinking I could fudge by with no FBA in a knit, & I’m only a D.
The first garment I ever sewed was an A-line skirt. I think skirts are a great place to start because there are generally fewer seams & curves than you find on shirts & dresses. I stuck with skirts for almost a year before venturing into making a dress because I was anxious about trying to fit my torso. (Mostly because I was breastfeeding & my size was changing like everyday. I finally jumped into dressmaking after I weaned.)
Yes, absolutely, simple skirts are a really great place to start, though I must say some waist bands can be tricky so it’s important to find the right ones: hopefully the ones mentioned above are in that category! And yes, it is certainly sometimes a good idea to FBA the knits, especially as you become a better sewer, but when you are a beginner and are more focussed on the crazy idea of making an item of clothing that you can wear on your body and haven’t worried about it actually fitting yet, knits are a forgiving place to start!