I was delighted to see the results of the CSC poll that asked readers about their sewing interests for 2016. You see, shirtmaking was one of the top results, and I have just spent the last three weeks making up a variety of woven shirts in search of the perfect pattern.
I understand that the CSC editors are planning a variety of shirt-related posts in 2016. But before that series officially kicks off, I thought I would share some of the lessons I learned diving into the world of shirtmaking. (In a separate blog post coming soon, I’ll review the individual shirt patterns, looking at the pros/cons of each.)
Tip #1: Slow Down, Buddy
I am a “fast and loose” sewist – I never do fancy finishes, never baste my stripes, and have been known to cheat my way through an FBA. I have no qualms about churning out a knit shirt in under an hour, and some of my quickie self-drafted items are my favorite makes. However, when it comes to shirtmaking, it pays to slow down (a little). In particular, here are the places where your attention is most needed:
- Easing in extra fabric – whether it’s a shoulder seam or a princess seam, woven shirts are notorious for places where the sewist needs to match up fabric of different lengths. Go slowly and use LOTS of pins (or my favorite: wonder clips). Otherwise, you’re going to end up with puckers in your fabric that scream “homemade” – and not in the good way.
- Plackets – Before I started my whirlwind shirtmaking adventure three week ago, I had never sewn a placket. Now I’m a pro. I’ve followed four different tutorials (more on that later) and the key takeaway is this: go slowly, press the folds precisely (yes, get out your ruler), and make sure that your interface is cut precisely.
- Trimming seam allowances and grading your seams – I am used to doing the majority of my sewing on a serger, but shirtmaking is done mostly on a plain old sewing machine. Taking the time to trim seam allowances and grade your seams makes a huge difference in the final quality of your shirt, particularly around potentially bulky areas like collars.
And in the interest of helping my fellow lazy sewists along, here are the short-cuts that work best for my shirtmaking process:
- Sewing out of order – I found that most patterns tackle one area (the bodice, the collar, the sleeves) at a time. However, it saves a ton of time to sew in batches. (For example: I often starts with sewing the sleeve tabs together, preparing the cuffs, and sewing the button bands together. I also do a ton of top-stitching at the same time.) As a general rule, I’m looking for ways to reduce the number of trips I need to make from the sewing machine to the iron.
- Cheating on seam allowances. I often “wing it” when changing up the seam allowance along the sleeve and side seams. For example, I know that I almost always want an extra smidgen of room in the hips, so I will grade out to a tiny seam allowance a few inches below the waist. Or if I try on the in-progress shirt and find that I have too much room in the arms, I’ll run a second line of stitching down the sleeve seam – no fussing about exact measurements, no transferring marks back to my pattern, no crying into the night about the details. Heresy, I know! (I do write down a couple of notes directly onto the pattern at the end of the process with the general alterations, such as “add extra inch on both sides to hips and shorten sleeves a bit”.)
Tip #2: Think about the Silhouette
There are tons of different woven shirt styles, and I found it a little overwhelming to get started. I’ve pulled together a bunch of currently-available patterns to share for inspiration, but be aware that not all of these options come in curvy-friendly sizing. I believe that most of them run up at least to a size 18, with several going up to size 24+.
Let’s begin, shall we? For the purposes of “shirtmaking” we usually begin by thinking about the classic button-down shirt:
Traditional button-down shirt – button bands split the front in two pieces, pointy fold-over collar with separate collar stand (or collar band, depending on your pattern’s lingo), curved shirttail hemline. Example: Sewaholic Granville.
From there, we can explore key differences, including different approaches for the bust, the collar, the hemline, the sleeves, front buttons, and back yokes:
From left to right: no darts (Hey June Cheyenne Tunic), princess seams (Simplicity 1941), bust darts (McCall 6436)
From left to right: waist darts (Burda 6849), combination bust and waist darts (New Look 6407). Note: there may be similar darts or shaping seams on the back side of the shirt. In general, more darts = more shaping.
From left to right: full collar with separate collar stand/band (Butterick 6070), full collar without separate collar stand/band (Burda 2561), and collar band only (Simplicity 2255).
From left to right: curved hemline (New Look 6266), straight hem (Simplicity 2151).
From left to right: traditional button-close cuff (Burda 6839), banded cuff (New Look 6963 view E)
From left to right: fold-over hemmed sleeve (New Look 6050), sleeve tab (can be combined with other cuff options) (Butterick 5826).
From left to right: traditional button-down (McCall 6124), half-placket (Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt), no placket (Butterick 5997).
From left to right: separate yoke piece (Simplicity 1538), no separate yoke piece (Butterick 5538).
And then there are numerous style choices that can be mixed and matched.
From left to right: dropped shoulder seam (Burda 6840), pintucks (Vogue 1165), gathered backs (Grainline Archer).
Each of these options will have an impact on the overall silhouette of your shirt. Consider the following when choosing your ideal silhouette:
- How do you wear button-down shirts — as part of a daily business suit, in flannel fabric over jeans, or tucked into pencil skirts? If you wear your shirts tucked in, you may want less ease through the hips (for less bunching). If you like your shirts untucked, you will likely want a bit more breathing room so the fabric doesn’t snag on your hips.
- Will you be mostly layering the shirt under a cardigan or jacket, or wearing it on top (perhaps over a camisole? How you plan to layer your shirt makes a big difference on the type of sleeve finish that you want – a puffy peasant sleeve with a banded sleeve cuff may feel bulky under a tailored jacket, whereas sleeve tabs can be a beautiful way to navigate between comfort and style in a business-casual environment.
- What kind of fashion statement do you want to make with your collar? Collar styles come in all shapes and sizes (70s style: awesomely large pointy collars spreading to your shoulder seams vs. Mandarin-style collar bands that give off a more streamlined Asian vibe, for example). Think about your neck height and circumference. Will you wear your collar buttoned up, or will you show a little cleavage? Will your short neck make you feel like a full collar with separate collar stand is creeping up your face? Do you wear a lot of necklaces – and what neckline flatters your jewelry the most?
By carefully thinking about the way you wear woven shirts, you’ll be able to choose a pattern that best suits your needs. Once you’ve got a basic silhouette in place, you can play with details and variations to your heart’s content.
Tip #3: Cup Sizes Are Your Friend
More and more pattern companies are waking up to the fact that a B Cup is no longer the norm. Proper fitting through the bust is absolutely essential for shirtmaking – especially for shirts that button down through the bust area. There are few things worse than the dreaded “shirt gape” – and here patterns with separate cup sizes are a godsend.
Note: don’t worry as much about matching the pattern cup size to your bra size (e.g. a 38 C doesn’t necessarily need the C pattern piece). Instead, look at the finished garment measurements to determine the best finished size in the bust, waist, and hips. Don’t be weirded out if you find yourself using a dramatically different pattern cup size than your bra size. Trust the process, grasshopper!
Pro tip: I like to have between 3-4 inches of ease through my bust area for button-down shirts – even that seems pretty fitted once I’m actually moving around. You know, swinging my arms when I walk and stuff.
Tip #4: Interfacing Matters
Because shirts can be made from wildly different materials (flowing rayon, crisp/sheer voile, toasty flannel, etc.), you will need to adjust your interfacing accordingly. I have made the mistake of using the wrong interfacing (either too light or too heavy) in the collars of several shirts and thrown a tantrum when I finally put it on and realized that the finished product was way too stiff, or way too sloppy. Additionally, once the shirt is sewn, there is little you can do to fix the problem if you’ve used iron-on interfacing. After several mishaps, I now make sure that I have enough fabric to sew TWO collars, just in case I need to make a last minute adjustment.
In an upcoming post, I’ll share photos and mini-pattern reviews for the shirts that I’ve made over the last three weeks, including the Hey June Cheyenne tunic, the Itch to Stitch Mila shirt, the Lisette Traveler tunic (S2246), and Butterick B5997. In that entry, I’ll focus on what I’ve learned specifically about sewing shirts for a curvy body. Until then, I’d love to know – what are the best button-down shirt patterns you’ve made, curvy sewists?
Really detailed article! I’ve only made a Bruyere and I was a bit scared attempting my first shirt, but actually it was fine (though its lucky it doesn’t have to button up to the top as that’s hid a number of issues!). I also skipped the cuffs as I am a scaredycat! I shall have to follow the posts on that to make myself braver!
Interestingly, I was thinking about the sewing similar things at once to minimise trips to the iron. I realised that I do the opposite – I will sew discrete sections because if I do too much of one task I get careless. But if I sew the yoke and then press it, then I sew the placket and press it, etc, I can be more careful, and I can more easily take breaks when I notice I’m getting sloppy. Just a personal style thing, I guess! I also am generally a fast and loose sewer and have trouble slowing down.
I definitely agree with your other tips, though! I have made some men’s shirts for my partner and then I realised that they fit me too so I made a couple for me with some waist shaping – but I tried them on recently and the fit is weird, I get hip drag. I want to make some more this winter (I live in Australia) though. And I’ve made a TONNE of shirtdresses, so I have that placket/collar joy! Looking forward to seeing your specific shirts!
– Thank you for using just the line drawings! I agree that this gives a much better understanding of the patterns.
– I’ve made enough bad button shirts to appreciate your advice about precision. I am currently working on Women’s Henley Shirt from Patterns for Pirates (http://www.patternsforpirates.com/product/womens-henley/). It’s the first time I’ve ever done plackets, or worked with knits, and I must say it’s been great.
– I am very much looking forward to this entire series. Thank you!
When I made my Shih Tzu a coat out of a blue and black checked flannel, my husband loved the material so much he asked for a button-down shirt in it. So, although I won’t actually be making this first shirt for myself, your tips are really timely for me. I’ll get to practice making his shirt and once I’ve finished it, I think I’ll be ready to make some for myself.
Please forgive what seems to me to be a nit-picky comment, but because you’re going to be doing a whole series, I’m going to go ahead and make it. I’ve always understood the term “button-down” to refer to a collar, rather than a whole shirt. A “button-down shirt” doesn’t make sense, does it? Button front yes, but button down, I don’t think so. Maybe this is a detail that is out of date, but I think it’s better to be clear. IMHO. Looking forward to the rest of your series!
According to Wilkipedia, “A dress shirt, button shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, button-down, button-down shirt, or button-up shirt is a garment with a collar and a full-length opening at the front, which is fastened using buttons or shirt studs.” So I think the terms are interchangeable. Although if other readers feel strongly about one term vs. another, please chime in!
I believe the terminology varies according to region. Carry on. 😉
Awesome post! Thx for sharing so many options available. I’m in desperate need of more shirts and this will be my next project for sure!
Awesome — glad to push you in this direction!
What a fun coincidence, we are having our first snow day here in East Tennessee and I was just thinking about sewing a blouse. I would like to had make a flannel one but have not found any fabric I like. I will be using the Silhouette pattern #600, Peggy has an older web cast that she shows you how to make one in about an hour. This will be my third make with this pattern, all I needed for fitting were some tweaks. Thank you for the post looking forward to the next one.
Thanks! Stay toasty and dry.
Thanks for sharing these great tips.
You’re very welcome!
Great tips!! I totally agree on the sewing out of order/batch sewing- with shirts, there are so many little things that if you do it in the order the instructions suggest it would take sooooo much longer. And precision is key! The shirts I’ve made where I was really precise about measuring the plackets, etc., are so much more professional than the ones I eyeballed 😉 Can’t wait for your pattern reviews!
Yes! The first time through each patter I always try to follow the directions. The second time through… well, I’m more “creative” with my order of operations.
YES! I love to hear about this from a fellow quick-and-dirty sewist. I am NOT precise, and I think that’s why I’ve avoided shirts for so long! Looking forward to learning from you! 🙂
Or learning from my mistakes, ha ha. 🙂
Yay for this timely post! I am in the process of cutting a McCalls 6436 in a toasty flannel. It didn’t even occur to me to check the weight of my interfacing. Also, I had been itching to try making a button down right now that I hadn’t given much thought as to the different styles and different ways to wear them…I just picked a pattern that I was hoping to not have to FBA. This was a great write up!
I’ve found that I prefer a light interfacing for my flannel shirts, since part of their appeal is the comfy, casual feel. A heavier interfacing will make it more crisp and less “I’m an awesome lumberjack”.
As an 11/12 year old, learning at my momma’s and grandma’s knee, I didn’t know collars were supposed to be a terror. Of course, they started us girls out on rounded collars and worked up to pointy ones. I probably did better work then because I wasn’t so impatient then. I think it is time to try a blouse/shirt again. Thanks for the encouragement.
Ironically, I’ve never had a problem with collars. Somehow, it’s the sleeve length that continues to elude me — I’m always too long or short!
Thank you so much for this research. I spotted a keeper in that lot – it’s great to just see the line drawings too – patterns on size 4 models are really hard to take seriously when one is like several of them bundled together!
Ha! I hear you — I couldn’t believe the number of shirt variations, once I started looking.
What a great post Jennifer! Interfacing is such a love hate relationship. Seems I never have the one I need, but it is a necessary evil for the shirt to look/wear right. I would also say that if you already have a shirt dress pattern that you love and it would look cute as a shirt, don’t be afraid to hack it to shirt length. Some of my favorite TNT button up shirt patterns started life as dresses!
Yes — and vice versa — it’s relatively easy to lengthen a shirt into shirt dress length!
Great perspective and many interesting things to consider!
Thanks Meg!
Oh thank you, thank you for this post. I love making shirts but despite my excellent workmanship, its pretty well wasted if I cannot wear the thing when its finished. Thats where the pattern fitting comes in I believe. Would it be presumptuous of me to pop in a link to my cuff and tower placket tutorials? I bought a $300 course from Mike Maldonado on shirt making and he allowed me to share his methods on my blog.
http://sewniptuck.com/2015/01/21/tutorial-sleeve-tower-placket/
http://sewniptuck.com/2015/02/07/shirt-cuff-mike-maldonados-way-part-1-of-2/
Thanks for that link! I love the clear step-by-step, you explain it very well!
This is really great! I’ve been too intimidated to sew a button-down shirt, but as a busty lady I can’t buy them without the waist being too huge or the chest being too tight. Looking forward to the rest of your advice and maybe I’ll finally make a 2016 resolution to try making one.
Until two months ago, I NEVER had a button up shirt that didn’t gape. It’s like a whole new world has opened up!!
I’ve made a Granville and though it’s still not exactly right, I’m pretty pleased. One issue for me is that my hips are wider than my bust, and all that extra width is in the back, the princess seams in the back allowed me to make some appropriate adjustments so that waist to hip area fits really well. I’m not entirely pleased with the sleeve and fit through the shoulders but it is close.
It’s such an iterative process, isn’t it? I’m find that I have close to perfect fit after about 3 tries… but at the same time, my first tries almost always fit better than RTW, so maybe I need to relax my standard a bit and try to enjoy all the versions along the way.
I’ve only done some cursory toe-dipping into the shirt making pile. However, I’ve learned a lot with the tutorials I’ve read to improve my stitching of my McCalls 6696 shirts. It really does make a difference when you stop to take your time. My latest shirt dress has been cut out for a little over a week, but I’ve done it in chunks, day 1 cutting, day 2 collar assembly and belt loops, and day 3 bodice construction and waist band insertion etc.
The tidbit on the amount of bust ease is beneficial. I’m always struggling to figure exactly how much is right (beyond what I like)
Yes! I find that shirt-making is almost meditative in its process — the sewing, the pressing, the trimming, the grading. Taking it in steps over a couple of days helps me not rush through it. (Although I will definitely admit to late-night marathon sewing sessions!)
I haven’t made a classic shirt but I think the advice you are offering here is invaluable. It is a time consuming and I would suggest a more “intermediate” challenge that most tops I’ve made due it’s demand for accuracy and NOT skipping any of those vital steps such as trimming, and pressing. The greatest challenge is actually liking the shirt when you’re done. If it doesn’t fit REALLY well you just won’t wear it.
Thanks Kathleen!
I definitely recommend a muslin to check for basic fit in the shoulders, bust, and waist/hip fit before spending the time/effort to do up a “real” version.I really should extend my muslin process to the sleeves, since I’m having an extra hard time getting sleeve length correct.
I agree that shirtmaking is an intermediate project, but it’s really just about taking your time and being precise. I don’t think it actually requires significantly more skill than other woven patterns… and there are now tons of detailed sew-alongs on the internet for extra hand-holding!
You’re whetting my appetite 🙂 I realized after pondering what you said about shirt making that the reason I haven’t is because I don’t actually own any classic shirts and haven’t for maybe 40 years! And the reason for that is because it was always hard to get a good fit with a large bust. If it fit my bust it would hang out like a tent and make me look like the side of a barn and the pockets would just emphasize my bust and I never never would put anything in those breast pockets anyway. But now I think wow imagine actually having a nice tailored shirt that does fit?
I think I’m the opposite of a fast and loose sewer. I’m looking for the finish rather than speed. I’ve been attending a class which includes shirts – or blouses. Just what is the difference? For me, it’s darting and shaping and less flat sleeve cap = blouse. A shirt is most likely going to have plackets, collar and stand, traditional men’s shirt in this category. It probably doesn’t matter though. I’ve made a few patterns including the class pattern but what I would say is that cardboard templates to accurately mark matching areas and marking collar stitching to ensure it’s even on each side are invaluable. Then marginally trimming part of the collar facing to ensure collar lies nicely with facing underneath. You’ve already mentioned the importance of accuracy.
None of the patterns I’ve sewn would count as curvy friendly, though, as I’ve had to do an FBA on all of them as well as lengthen for my long frame. None of them have been ‘the one’. I await your reviews with interest, thank you.
Thanks Anne!
Thanks you. This helps with a positive/productive mind set. I’m about ready to repeat my sewing marathon from years ago. I woke up one day screaming “I need shirts” Rounded up 3 hunks of fabric, all with white backgrounds (same thread for sewing) , selected a tried and true pattern — and launched into a sewing frenzy — 3 collar units, 6 cuffs, 27 button holes, etc. In a few days, I had a wardrobe of blouses that went with all my skirts and pants. The choice of fabric made each shirt unique, not a clone. Your article reminds me that by taking just a few hours more, I could vary some details along the way, making each shirt truly unique. Gotta go and check out my stash and maybe Joann’s. I feel a bunch of shirts coming on.
Ugh… sewing on buttons is my LEAST favorite part of the shirt-making process. Over the last month I’ve done more than 4 dozen… and each one made me die a little on the inside. But the finished product revives me each time!
so true about buttons. somehow I always manage to goof it up. Now tho my machine can do that job most of the time – – and in a “marathon” situation, could probably walk right thru 30 buttons without batting an eye. ! ! I’m counting on it ! !