Today we’re finishing the vertical wrap edges of the dress – if you’re doing a fixed wrap dress you may not need to do this step.
First, serge the vertical edge if you’re using a serger (if not, don’t worry, jersey doesn’t fray so it’ll be fine).
Over to the ironing board, and fold it over to the wrong side by about an inch. Press.
When you fold it over, you’ll see that this brings the tie over to the wrong side, too. The top edge of the tie should intersect with the diagonal neckline band, as you can see in the photo below. Pin the tie down to keep it secure.
Bring out the wonder tape again! Tape the full length of the folded over piece.
Start by stitching down the tie junction. With right side up, use your sewing machine (ideally with a walking foot) to secure the tie down with a square of stitching. I do it this way because it’s hard to coverstitch over that many bulky layers, and you can be sure that the tie won’t detach under strain.
Now, serge or twin-needle the full length of the vertical wrap hem down! You sew from the right side, and the aim is to be sewing directly on top of the serged edge on the wrong side. The benefit of having serged it already is that the back always looks neat. If you haven’t serged you just need to be very careful, and remember that it’s better to have a bit of excess fabric on the back than to miss the edge.
(Apologies this photo is a bit confusing because the hem is already finished, but I forgot to take a photo earlier! The vertical hem is on the left hand side)
Aaaaannnnd, repeat for the other side.
LAST STEP TOMORROW!!! Any questions before then?
Nita says
Another question…what size twin needle are using? I bought a 2mm and I think the lines of stitching are awfully close together. I wonder if I should use a wider one when I get to the hem…
Jenny says
I’m actually using a coverstitch. What are others using?
Colleen wright says
For my twin needle I am using Schmetz stretch twin needle 130/705 h-s zwi 4,0/75.
Nita says
I’m using a different pattern from you, and so did as instructed and have already folded over a 2″ self facing for the long edge. It is sewn down at the top and will be sewn down at the hem as well. Do you think I should also sew down the entire edge? I guess I could always do it later if it was a problem.
Jenny says
I would wait and see how you like it on – facings often flip out and if it’s doing that you may want to sew it down
Colleen wright says
Have you ever tried a mitered corner for the hem/ front fold back? Just wondering.
Jenny says
You certainly could! The way I’m doing it is more common in RTW