Hello!
Well after your fantastic response to the announcement of this new monthly series, it is time to get going with it! I should say first that we are compiling all of your excellent suggestions for articles and will try and do as many as we can. One great suggestion has already spawned a new mini series: Sewing For My Size. If you are interested in writing about how you fit clothes to your body shape, or on any other the other ideas mentioned in the original Peculiarities post, do get n touch! We really are a collective and want your input!
But right now, let’s get gossiping….
First up: FABRIC
You may wonder why on earth this is something that is different for us curvy girls. After all, the one thing that unites the sewing world is our obsessive keen love of all things textile.
Familiar?
Sewists LOVE fabric. We covet it, over-buy it, hoard it, hide it, stroke it, swap it, google it, talk about it, dream about it. It’s wonderful. There are so many beautiful fabrics out there in the world, and we want them all, even if we have no idea what we would make with it.
Plus sized sewists need more fabric than others. It makes sense right? Our clothes are bigger, so we need to buy more of that beautiful fabric we love. What’s the harm in that?
So special
There are a few reasons why I get annoyed at having to buy more fabric than non-curvy sewist.
1: MONEY. As I’m sure you know, fabric can be very expensive. And we don’t want to buy lots of the same fabric, we want to buy loads of different fabrics. Buying one extra metre of one fabric means one less metre of something else even prettier.
2: READY TO WEAR. This is a ridiculous reason. I don’t have to pay more for larger sizes in high street shops, so I don’t want to spend more money on fabric to cover my body when I make my own clothes. I know this is silly, and all it goes to show is how much fast fashion has removed us from understanding the means of production. I know there is an argument to say that larger people shouldn’t have to pay more for the ‘privilege’ of being fat, but we do need more fabric, and someone has to make that and should be paid for doing so. I should not get annoyed at this.
3: STORAGE. More fabric requires more storage. I know, I know, I should just buy fabric for specific projects and use it up and not hoard any. BUT WHO ACTUALLY DOES THAT? I have a ridiculous amount of fabric, and always buy a bit extra than I need in order to cover any grading up that I inevitably have to do. That takes room, and I have had to spend a lot of money in Ikea to deal with storing such large pieces. This is a particular problem with big ole winter fabrics which seem to require a whole room to store. It’s also massively unwieldy. Pre-washing, drying, handling and cutting out massive lengths of fabric often requires gymnastic contortions and reeaaaallllyyy long arms.
4: IT’S AVOIDABLE: This is what bugs me the most. Because most patterns are designed for a ‘standard size 12’ they make sure that the ‘regular’ sizes can fit on, say, 2 metres of 44inch wide fabric. But how many times have I seen that a pattern layout for larger sizes doesn’t require a few extra centimetres of fabric, but a whole extra metre? If plus sizes were designed first, surely the original design would be adapted to fit on a suitably sized piece of fabric? So many times it seems that plus sizes are an afterthought, and that as the pattern gets graded up the designer realises the larger sizes don’t fit so neatly, and so a whole new layout is needed, and an extra metre or so of fabric. If patterns were designed specifically with plus sizes in mind from the start, I feel this could be avoided.
HOWEVER, it’s not all bad. Because we are clever and resourceful folk, I have found that I am often able to squeeze my pattern pieces on to the same sized fabric as a non-plus sized sewist. As I have inevitably panicked and bought the extra metre (plus a bit more for grading) I then have enough to make a top, or a contrast panel for a dress or to chop up and make into pieces for quilting. I do sometimes wonder if larger sewists are more likely to make quilts…?!
POSH.
What do you think? Is it a pain having to buy more fabric? Or do you just want to have lots on lots and lots of the lovely stuff?
Yeah, none of these irritate me at all. I’m bigger, so it takes more fabric to cover me. That’s no one else’s fault. Why should I whine about it?
Wow lots of comments on this pet peeve. I am nodding my head in agreement all the way. In my early sewing days I would never buy more than three yards of fabric due to budget constraints and would end up with a top and maybe pants if the fabric was 60 inches. To make two matching pieces, I require minimum six yards of fabric. I usually buy seven ($$$ ugh!) if I plan to make a tunic length top. I try not to have a mental battle over this (we all know the argument–if you were smaller, this wouldn’t be an issue) but sometimes I do. Being rtw size 32, it is what it is.
If I am buying fabric for a particular pattern, I will test lay out my fabric on my grid board first. Inevitably, I’m not going to need the yardage they suggest unless the skirt is humungous or I am matching a print/plaid with an large repeat. And I don’t buy as much 44/45 widths as I used to. I CRAM that preshrunk yardage with pieces (ongrain always). I also buy at the thrift stores and muslin on old sheets.
It is NOT asking too much to get a different layout for a different size. It is insulting that they aren’t offered. And it’s silly not to pretest a layout before spending good money for fine fabrics.
I find it both a pain to have to buy more fabric to make my lovely plus sized clothes, but then I do love, and have, lots of fabric! But, as you mentioned cost is prohibitive. Living in a rural area also limits the fabrics I have access to, so that even ordering online adds to the costs with shipping.
I follow the collective. I enjoy it’s politics, it’s beautiful models, the usually great clothes and visiting the blogs of many of you who are part of the collective. You inspire. I am petite and get called tiny but I do read this blog so if I may kindly have permission to comment?
“But how many times have I seen that a pattern layout for larger sizes doesn’t require a few extra centimetres of fabric, but a whole extra metre? If plus sizes were designed first, surely the original design would be adapted to fit on a suitably sized piece of fabric?”
How I wish! Do you know how much fabric I have bought because I rarely need more than 2/3rds of the yardage stated for my size? But I buy what’s recommended for the proverbial 5’6 sloper model and always end up with a lot of scraps. Am I pissed? No. I make bags, etc. with the scraps usually. I really don’t expect any pattern company do give special yardage amounts for petite short people. They have to start somewhere and that 5’6 model in size 12 is the middle. That means when I cut a size six there is always left over/waste/ money I didn’t have to spend. It’s the nature of the beast and nothing I can do about it. I can buy less fabric but I guarantee you, the day I do, there won’t be enough to cut it all out. So, I do not agree with this statement. Designing the plus sizes first for any patterns makes as much sense as designing the size sixes first. It’s an unrealistic expectation and I understand the the middle is the best place to grade from, IMO.
That all being said, I get your frustration about needing more fabric and get how that bites. It would make me mad too but I don’t see where there is any alternative and turning it into a positive like make a tank top or bag is a better use of our creativity, rather than investing effort discussing something that won’t change for any of us, from either end of the size spectrum.
I really enjoy this blog and following you all.
I like buying extra fabric. Then I can make a matching bag or something for the skirt I’m making. Even if it’s just the lining. Or maybe I’ll use the extra to line the inside of my blouse cuffs so when I roll them up they become just a little more fun. But I also tend to thrift a lot of fabric.
I mean my husband and my wallet doesn’t like me buying the extra fabric. But I just love having it around just in case I find the perfect project for it. 🙂
I guess it also helps that I refuse to pay more than 10$ a yard for any fabric. If it’s more than that I’ll wait for a sale or just find a different fabric for my project. >__>
I’m sad to say my husband DOES pay more for RTW because he buys larger sizes. Shirts, pants, whatever – at the only store in town where he can shop, the large sizes are about $5 more!
I do have a crazy stash of fabric, but a good portion of it is in too-small increments from before I got into garment sewing or it was given to me as a remnant so it was small anyway. This is one of the things about wanting to sew cute dresses that annoys me the most is the buying way more fabric aspect. I read blogs of these cute, petite, size 0 or 2 girls and they say things like, “And I was able to squeeze this whole dress out of 1.5 yards” and I’m so jealous I could just cry, lol. I love all the fun new designers like Cotton + Steel or beautiful fabrics like an Amy Butler Cotton Lawn Print, but they are all $12 or $25 or (insert high number here) per yard and when you have to get 4 yards for a dress, it will break the bank quite literally and very fast. I’m on a constant budget, and I can’t afford to spend $60 and above on just the fabric to make a dress with, you know? So like several others have mentioned I LOVE thrifting for fabric. It’s definitely very hit or miss, but when it hits it’s a great feeling 🙂 This need for more fabric has turned me into a “sale only shopper” at fabric stores, which does lead to a big stash because I always plan ahead to save money when I can instead of just going out and buying whatever I want at the moment I want to make it. I guess this is just the plight of a curvy girl who prefers full skirts 🙂
I agree with everything that you’ve said. I also have a bunch of cuts that I can’t part with that were bought when I weighed less and needed less fabric. (I hold onto them thinking “Well, I can make a blouse instead of a dress” in my brain, but in my heart, I really want the fabric to be a dress.)
Anyway….have you checked out the big sale that Craftsy has been having for designer fabrics like Cotton + Steel and Art Gallery? You have to buy in 2, 3, or 4-yard cuts, but thse are some of the best prices that I’ve seen on these fabrics:
http://www.craftsy.com/supplies/sewing-fabric
Yes, this absolutely. I want all the pretty new designer fabrics, but I can only really afford to make a vest top from them, not the full dress of my dreams. But I do often buy a metre of the fabric I like and work out how to match it with a much cheaper fabric, so I often end up with a very colour/pattern blocked wardrobe. Necessity really is the mother of invention and I do think plus sized women can become very creative around their constraints.
Also new to sewing and discovering the wonder that is recommended fabric and recommended layouts. For cycling hobbyists, the term that gets bandied about is “local bike shop” or LBS. It’s used in contrast to buying online or at a megachain or department store. I don’t know if there’s an equivalent for sewing, but when I was at my local fabric shop this weekend the person I was asking for advice recommended bringing in my pattern to figure out if I really needed to follow the recommended layout. The layout in this case had you cutting on the flat for three of the pieces and one of them in the opposite direction so that you’d need an extra 1/2 metre for directional fabrics. Turns out, all the pieces could be cut on the fold (I had my muslin with me; I’d thrown in the bag spontaneously.) I know it’s not a possibility for everyone or for every fabric type, but until I get a better idea of what I’m doing, I know I’ll be more likely to shop in person.
In terms of what Jane Connor said about investment pieces, I’ve discovered that I can’t sew a garment for the same cost as buying at large chains like Reitmans or The Gap or even edging up to the sales at Banana Republic, but I can sew something for basically the same cost as a store that specializes in local designers. Being at the inflection point between straight sizes and plus sizes, I also get to not feel to guilty about not buying the local designers, because only certain of them carry my size or fit my body shape.
I do that, only buy for a specific project. Some of us don’t have a lot of discretionary income. Not wanting to make you feel guilty, just asking for some sensitivity. Thank.
I agree, some sewists don’t have stashes simply because they can’t afford it! Every time I see a photo of a huge stash, the first thing I think about is how much money it took to buy all that fabric. Then again, I’m not offended by anyone with loads of fabric. If I had the money, I’m sure I’d be buying fabric left and right. 🙂
I’m sorry to have caused upset: believe me, I was not condoning stashing, but actually recommending your approach. Stashing is expensive, often wasteful and takes up a lot of room.
Most kind, Rosie Sparkleness. Sparkleneedleness. Thank you. I am a bit oversensitive about this issue due to straight jealousy. I don’t begrudge anyone their stash – all sewers should live and be well – it’s just that money for us is so d*** tight right now! Looking forward to seeing more of your posts!
Wow! This seams to be an intense subject. I sell sewing machines and where I live we have Walmart as a fabric store. If I want fashion fabric I need to drive to the next town to get it. Not a big deal for me. Most of the fabric stores in the surrounding communities are quilt shops. The most common comment I get from customers is “It’s not cost effective to sew anymore.” I tell them that investment dressing is where sewing can come in handy. Those classic pieces that are the foundation of you wardrobe should fit you well and wear well. I tell them that if you have a fitting issue or don’t like the way ready-to-wear fits, you need to sew. If you want to where Yves Saint-Larent or even a lesser known designer you can sew for less. I most often get a blank stare.
I am 5’ 4” tall and range in size 22-26. I went to design school in the ’80s and know how to do some pattern work. I have always had a larger bottom, even when I was a high and tight size 14. So now that I am bigger that is accentuated more. I also now have a protruding belly. I can wear a 2x from the waist up but 3x or larger on the bottom. I have purchased garments 1-3 sizes larger to get a flow around the bottom.
I have a pattern software that isn’t produced any more, sorry ladies, that you plug in 47 measurements and you can print out your pattern and tape it together. I had to do 4 muslins with progressive tweets to get a basic tunic that fits. I did the same thing with pants. I am close on the pants but not spot on yet. I am able to use the tunic as a “block” for checking out patterns I may purchase and use. I lay the pattern front over the tunic front to see where I need to adjust the pattern to get closer to my fit, then I add seam allowance for the fitting process.
As for fabric I generally buy fabric I like without a specific project in mind, but a type of garment. 4 yards for a top or blouse, 5 yards for pants, I usually keep the pants in the solid range. I haven’t found a style of skirt yet that doesn’t make me look like I’m stuck in a tube.
As a rule I always buy at least a half a yard more than the amount called for on a pattern. Mostly because not all cutters at the fabric store will cut a piece exactly straight. More than once in my life I’ve not had enough fabric after buying the amount stated on the pattern envelope. So buying extra is not really a problem for me.
Ah yes, the perils of the wonky cut fabric…
I always have to laugh when I see a tutorial online for a cute garment–dress, skirt, top, whatever–and then see the amount of fabric the often-tiny blogger was able to eek it out of and of course that’s the yardage she recommends for all her readers. But I get frustrated with magazines who don’t assume a wider range of sizes and, for example, say: you can make this circle out of just 2 1/2 yards of fabric. Really? Because it took me 4 yards of fabric to make a circle skirt, and that was out of the widest yardage I could find, too. Magazines should provide better fabric estimates for a broader size range for their clothing projects. But there’s no use crying over spilled milk. Bigger bodies require more fabric: it’s a fact, and that won’t change, so there’s no point in complaining about it. Sure I guess I envy smaller sewers who can buy 2 yards and get a gorgeous dress out of it, when I’d need at least 3, but that just means I get more scraps for my “someday” crazy quilt. I always buy at least 3 yards of something if I think I want more than a sleeveless top from it, and often I’ll buy 5 just in case. (Buy the fabric, the project will come.) And btw, my fabric stash is spilling out of 15–yes, 15–30-gallon plastic bins. I invest my money in my future wardrobe.
It’s going to be an incredible quilt though, eh??!
I have TONS of fabric, but most of it has come from thrift stores. I was able to get 14 yards of rayon, still on the bolt, for less than a dollar per yard. I also got 7 1/2 yards of a cotton/linen blend for $3 from a thrift store. I’m new to sewing and figuring out the different fabrics that I get seem to be the hardest part about buying someones old stash of fabric at a thrift store, but it saves me tons a money. Also I use old sheets as muslin. There are many different ways to save on the cost of buying fabric even for plus size gals like us.
Tell me about it. I am at the larger end of plus size and tend to buy 4-5m of a fabric I like. Last night I lugged three pieces of knit fabrics to a sewing evening because I knew I could use the big tables to cut out (heavenly having 5m of continuous table!) and my muscles are still sore! I am used to it however and i have also made a full length full skirted, trained wedding dress for a tiny dot of a client out of 3.7m (4 yrds) of 115cm/45 inch wide silk. This would not make me a shirt. Ah well!
I’m not sure that it’s necessarily avoidable – 1cm more for each seam adds up when you take into account many pattern pieces, and there’s not many patterns where I could use as little fabric as the smallest size. BUT I don’t find I need very much more – usually when I need more it’s to accommodate my height, not my size. Most garments I can get out of 2-2.5m
I agree with Soohie-Lee, it might be avoidable up to a certain size, however larger pattern pieces do require larger area, that is a fact. What makes me mad is that when pattern is graded to a plus size with shoulders graded to be hanging off my natural shoulder by 4″+, and I have to trim it off later in the sewing process. Which means that the need for extra fabric could have been avoided if the patterns had a little more thought put into them by the designers/graders. I am usually size 20-24, depending on a garment type, and I never go by the fabric requirements on the envelope. There are too many variables. They give you fabric stats usually for 45/60″ width, but most fabric I buy varies between 52-57″. I also rarely buy fabric for a project, I maintain stash and sew from stash and replenish it as I find something I like. So I usually go by fabric weight and buy two lengths for pants/skirt or add a bit more for a dress weight so I have enough for bodice/sleeves. I may buy one yard for a pencil skirt if fabric is on a pricey end and I really like it but don’t want to invest a fortune into one garment.
I do think that paying extra for plus size is fair. More is more, it should cost more. We all have different needs. Some people have medical conditions and require medication to function through the day, which doesn’t mean that they should have it for free because the person next to them doesn’t. And one should always consider the person in the other end. Someone puts work into making a garment, whether it is big or small, it still needs sleeves and hem and special finishing or whatnot.
But if you were, say, 10 sizes larger, you’d probably need more than just a little more fabric, right? 😉 I do find I need more fabric for pants, because I can’t fit the legs side by side, or even just the calves overlapping, because of the width for my tush. Dress wise though, I’m like you and usually don’t need extra fabric.
I’d better buy an extra half metre/yard to be on the safe side or for the sudden design variation what could strike me. I’d be very frustrated if I had not enough fabric for my plan. Nevertheless, I have some pretty and precious fabrics in my stash which are too small for whole garment and just wait – for right coordinate, or for right design.
Yes to this! I think the most frustrating thing is when I could just eek it out if I only were a size or two smaller. Creativity sometimes saves me. Last time it ended up going from a vision of a maxi skirt and ended being almost tunic length! 🙂
On the note of the weird pricing for RTW clothing, my 16 month old’s clothes are just as expensive as mine. Why??? Her clothes take next to no fabric compared to my plus size ones, so they seem to be ridiculously overpriced.
It’s probably more likely that your own clothing is underpriced, when you consider how much goes into RTW (from growing the cotton, weaving, dyeing, cutting, sewing, factory supervisors, shipping etc)
less fabric goes into childrens’ and baby clothes, yes, but the same amount of sewing has to happen, and at a smaller scale than for an adult, which can be trickier.
A couple of issues with kids’ clothes are fabrics and treatments. Most adult women’s clothes are synthetics or blends. More foten, kids’ clothes will be cotton (more expensive generally). Also, many clothes are treated or tested to be fire resistant, both of which add to price. And if I remember correctly, companies have to pay for an outside agency to test and approve that their fabrics are fire resistant or fire retardant, a cost passed to the consumer at some point. Certain kids’ items sold in stores are required to meet fire tests. I don’t think any adult clothing requires that.
I often buy fabric with more than one garment in mind. I think in terms of pant/skirt lengths, top w/sleeve length, dress length adding according to sleeve and skirt width, I will even buy a quality solid fabric by the bolt. And I do quilt with my cotton remnants.
I hate ready wear. Th e clothes that do kinda fit are out of my price range and i am so tired of pull up pants from Wal-Mart. Also of buying extra fabric unless its the five plus yards
Of purple embroidered linen for fifty cents a yard
I always buy more than I need, always at least a yard or two. But if I really like the fabric I’ll buy even more than that, thinking I’ll make more than one garment out of it, eventually. Madness, I suppose, in a way. But I mainly REALLY overbuy on good quality nice solid colors, and just KIND OF overbuy on everything else. I don’t think it’s so much from being plus sized–because while obviously being bigger means I need more fabric than a small person, it doesn’t mean I have to buy way more than I need. But I live a long way from fabric shops and– best case scenario–if I need more for whatever reason, I might be able to make a 120 mile round trip and get what I need at Joann’s, IF they have it. Otherwise it’s mail order for me, because there’s no place else near by. I guess I’m always afraid I might make a mistake and need to recut a piece or something. And like I said, I don’t have a problem using the same fabric for more than one project. Finding lovely good quality fabrics is such a rare thing for me it kind of goes to my head.
YES. Especially if you like full-skirts, or dresses *with* full skirts. “Five yards, please”…. 😛
I am working on a long chiffon “jacket” for a plus size client (I’m plus size too). The fabric called for 3 yards of 45″ wide fabric which I ordered. When I started to lay it out I realized the pattern wouldn’t fit. I thought it was my fault because I had graded up a size but I realized that the fabric requirements were in error – even the original largest size did not fit on the double layer of 45″ fabric – requirement should have been 4yds!! Very irritating! Because of layout – just back on fold, 2 fronts, & 2 sleeves I had to order 2 more yds instead of one to get it to fit – now I have excess! Thank goodness I wasn’t in a time crunch!
If you want to know the pattern is Butterick 5033 – you will need about 2-1/2 yds of 60″ or 3-1/2 of 45″ for the jacket.
I tried looking this up – no Butterick 5033 just McCalls 5033. Could you verity pls, love to check out what others a making/wearing.
Such a pain when the pattern co makes a mistake like this. Did you let them know about it?
We only have a fabric liquidator who gets all kinds of weird stuff sent to him. Anyone looking for genuine, authentic, fake fur for a one-of-a-kind cave lady dress? I can let you in on a reeeally good deal, take your pick, lots of variety for just $9.99 a metre! I can find all kinds of special deals for you – you just have to hand over your money.
Our only other options are to drive 2-3 hrs one way, and hope they have what you want. Basically, it is an all day trip to go fabric shopping – you need time and money to make it worthwhile.
Now everyone knows why we need a stash – it saves us both time and money.
It is Butterick 5033 but it’s a discontinued pattern. I found a few sources for it though. I googled it and it came up on Amazon, Etsy & a few others.
I didn’t let them know because it’s discontinued and because I just don’t have time:)
A sewing instructor taught me that one does not have to cut out patterns according to the layout guide in the pattern instructions. Especially if one is trying to eek out as much as they can from a limited amount of fabric. Refolding the fabric in such a way that you have 2 folded edges if you have 2 large pattern pieces that need to be on the fold, for example, or folding the fabric in half across the width for a circle skirt. Remembering that we are not limited to the dictates of pattern companies helps.
I haaaate when online fabric stores only sell by the whole yard/meter. I have maybe a handful of patterns I can make with 2 yards, but a ton of things I can make out of 2 1/4 yards. So, if I want to use that fancy fabric for something other than a tank top, gotta buy 3 whole yards. That’s suddenly 50% more!
This is so frustrating. But then we will all have amazing quilts and patchwork clothes! 😉
What kills me is fabric used for muslins. I’ve been fighting battle shorts for several summers on and off and I have wasted so much fabric. I really wish someone made a stretch twill or denim substitute that was cheaper but behaved the way the good stuff does. That or if you don’t have much of a waist and have figured out fitting shorts or a pattern that fits well let me know. I’ll totally give you a virtual hug.
Sometimes I find some good deals on large amounts of fabric on eBay for cheap. A couple of years ago I got several yds of ugly swimsuit knits (was being used for gymnastic outfits) that I use to make “muslins” for knits.
YES this. Muslins are non-optional for me, but god so much fabric wasted. Well, ‘wasted’ but still.
I am at the big end of plus size, in addition to being over 6 ft tall. I get very jealous reading blog posts about someone whipping up a garment from just a yard of fabric, I just can’t do that.
So true! I am big and tall, which means no relief. It’s 5m of 150cm wide fabric for winter, or 4 for summer, But I don’t really mind, really – because the clothes in the shops I choose to shop in are SO much more expensive than even the more expensive fabrics I buy. I am making and wearing less clothes over all. It evens out.
Me too! The only thing I can ‘whip up’ out of one yard of fabric are sleeves.
I’ll add to the pet peeves. Why can’t they make all fabric 60 inches wide? It would solve many issues of needing another inch or two in the layout without buying another 2 or 3 yards to move the whole pattern down. Simple if you’re regular curvy, but a WHOLE lot more complicated when you’re covering a 74 inch goddess of a butt!
When I made my M6696 out of quilting cotton, it took the whole 5 metres that I bought. Because it had a huge skirt, and a directional print, I basically used 3/4 of the width the whole way down… the bodice was about 1″ too wide to fit on the side. It was infuriating!
I feel the same way! When you have a bodacious booty it takes a lot of fabric to cut out pants on 45 inch fabric. I have to single layer all four pieces-smh!
I’m so with you on not wanting to pay more for RTW. My husband is a larger guy, and he’s stuck shopping at the “Big and Tall” stores for men–I think that the price disparity there is even worse than it is for women. As he puts it, “We’re forced to pay more for clothes that we don’t actually like but that we’re stuck buying because they’re the ones that fit us.” I am so glad that I have sewing for myself as an option.
I *will* pay more for RTW, and happily – IF I think it’s because it’s been properly sized up. If it’s just that they basically photocopied the pattern at 120% and made it up, then nope. I’m not paying more for a cruddy dress that still constricts my boobs and arms but has huuuuuge armscyes and a baggy waist. I wouldn’t before I sewed, and I definitely won’t now (the difference being now I have an alternative!).
Not to mention that so many of these items are terrible fabric quality, and fall apart immediately. If you can even find them to buy in the first place!
My husband is the same! But sadly, since it would take so many metres to make him, say, a pair of pants, I just pay for the RTW instead!
I’m the daughter of a ‘frugal’ mother who NEVER bought the ‘recommended’ length of fabric when she was sewing, She’d make that pattern fit if it meant putting an extra seam somewhere!
I’m in collection mode with my fabric, we have one fabric shop within an hours drive so I went a little crazy when we were in the big city! There were so many ‘ooooh pretty’ fabrics and I will admit to buying a bit more than a sane person probably would have but hey, it was pretty!!
Your comment re the extra cost of RTW plus sizes reminded me of a cardigan I purchased a few months back. I could buy the XL off the standard rack or the S off the plus size rack….. exactly the same size (I even laid them out to check!) different branding but EXACTLY the same in every way………….. $10 dearer for the plus size S!! As much as the thought of fitting as S would have made me feel great, $10 is $10! Crazy!
Dear Rosie,
I tend to buy 5 yards of whatever I love in fabric. I do this so i can make mistakes and recover (mostly) and so I can later coordinate my clothing. I love wardrobe capsules that include shared fabrics – first as a main fabric, then as an accent and last as facings etc. I feel special and “designer” when I can do this! Also, looking at my stash, I have a lot of bits that coordinate. So If I do have to mash fabrics together for enough yardage, I seem to have what I need. This makes for happy, stress free fabric picking even if the “fitting” part is still a challenge. Thanks for the great post, I am sure you will have lots of people explaining their “overbuying” strategies! It will be fun to see all the reasons..
I’ve actually been thinking about creating “collections” where I tie in similar elements throughout several items, but hadn’t quite worked out how it would work best!
I buy a bottom weight and a knit in the same solid color and one or two prints in whatever hits my fancy. The prints hopefully differ, like a floral and a stripe. Then, when it is time to make stuff, hopefully I have enough coordinated fabric to make it work. When I am in “search mode” I bring little bits of my fabrics ( matching paint chips) with me so I can buy the right shades. That way, I am not wasting my 5 yd fabric purchases with “off colors”.
I like reading about your adventures in sewing, Sophie-Lee, good luck with your collection strategies!
I feel as limited by sewing as I am by ready to wear. Fabric costs in the UK mean that I feel like I can’t learn as my finances don’t stretch to wasting the amount it would cost to make a garment that might not fit. I’ve been sewing for my daughter since I ruined my first garment. I have just, after 2 years, ordered the fabric to make a Moneta. I’m really hoping my sewing practice on bags and my daughter will help me make something I want to wear.
Thank you for this post.
Hi Sarah – a good way to practice with cheap fabric is to use old bedsheets – save them up if you have them, or you can buy them very cheaply at charity shops!
Thanks for the tip, but using a woven for a muslin is what had me messing up the first one. I’m crossing fingers Moneta goes well!
You definitely don’t want to use a woven muslin for a knit garment. Do you have access to any stores that put old or overstock knit fabric on clearance sale for cheap? That’s the route that I would take.
Not that I’ve found. Are you in the UK, any tips?
Hi Sarah, where abouts in the UK are you? If you are up north I know a fantastic place that sells super cheap fabric, like 2 quid a metre in Burnley
I’m in the East Midlands, the nearest places for me seem to be Leicester or Birmingham. Thanks though, I’ll look it up if I’m up that way.
Ah yes it would be a little out of your way then that’s a shame. I have some friends in Brum though so I’ve sent out some feelers. If I hear of anywhere promising I’ll let you know.
We used to have about 6 knitting mills in a town about 2 hrs away. They have all shut down & moved the factories off shore. I remember my mom buying it by the pound and making all kinds of gorgeous knit outfits for everyone in the family. Now I can’t find any decent knits other than dance/swimwear or some basic cotton knits for t-shirts – both outrageously priced for what you get. Knitwear is very hard to find now.
Ah right, I wasn’t referring to the Moneta but for other garments. You can see if there are large stretch garments in charity shops – sometimes there are maxi skirts that have a lot of fabric.
I look for really large men’s polo shirts and t-shirts or women’s knit maxi dresses at thrift stores, because in my area knit fabric at a thrift store is like finding a golden ticket – it’s all upholstery and quilting cotton. If it’s a muslin, it doesn’t matter if it’s all the same fabric, so sometimes I’ll use a few different shirts as long as they have roughly the same amount of stretch – it saves so much money!
This is exactly what I do – I have a large stack of old sheets that I use for muslins so I don’t have to pay for actual muslin. It’s worked out wonderfully for me and it’s so so so much cheaper!
For knits, I have made muslins from old t-shirts. They don’t have to be the same color when you’re checking fit so I just cut open one side and lay the t-shirt out as if it were fabric.
Sarah, making a knit dress is a great idea, as you get sooo many fewer fit issues with stretchy fabrics and the Moneta is great. In terms of tips (and I am not affiliated with them at all, just sped too much money there) check out Regency Rags on ebay. Lots of very cheap knits there and good quality too. They are London based xx
Oh fab. Thank you!
And if you want any sewing help for knits, give us a shout over on the forums!! 🙂
That’s a lovely offer and I will more than likely take you up on it. I’ve sewn a number of things for my daughter but this is going to be a lot of fabric to handle!
There’s plenty of cheap fabric available in the UK. If you’re near London, try Walthamstow Market and/or Goldhawk Road. In the Midlands, I recommend Birmingham Rag Market. In the south (and online), Fabricland has some great bargains (their website is the worst in the world, but it’s worth persevering for the bargains and the excellent customer service when you phone). Wherever you are, try your local market, look for Asian fabric shops and ask around. You can definitely get fabrics for £2-£3/metre for practicing on, even if you decide to pay more for fabrics later. Also, for wovens, use old sheets etc for muslins (pick them up at a charity shop for very little if you don’t have any lying around).
I did think Birmingham would be my best shot but it’s still not that close. I worked out it would cost about £15 in fuel there and back, so not exactly a cost saver. Maybe one for when I need a day trip anyway.
I am a regular at my market, there are three stalls but they’re not great at knits. The cost was £4-5 a metre generally, but one stall had some on sale last week and I got some for £3 a metre which was great!
I will try Fabricland website, cheers.
well I think we are resourceful enough to take our pattern come up with our own layout and then go and look for the perfect pattern and perfect layout.
I also think many high-end and regular stores show an increase in retail pricing for the 1X, 2X etc. Hogwash to that!
Is there any consideration given to print size, graphic designs when choosing a fabric? I think not, I can wear it all….but do others feel differently? Please comment if you feel like it.
I never even look at the layout guide, except maybe to see how many of each piece I’ll need, or what to cut on the fold. They’re designed to fit the most number of different sizes on the fabric, not to be the most economical!
I have noticed I am really drawn to smaller prints, but find they look so fussy on me. I prefer to wear larger scale prints. That might just be a style preference, though. In terms of fabric amounts, though, a directional print will mean you need more, and have less room for squeezing extra out of the fabric. I know I’m more likely to buy fabric to stash if it is wide, or has a multi-directional print, because it’s going to be more versatile – vs needing 5m of some print I have taken an idle fancy to, just in case I want to make a dress with it.
I agree, little ditzy prints are not for me…..give me bold, black and white print….love it!